a lot of machining videos on youtube show hobby machinists making a lot of tools, but usually they are making tools so they can make more tools without ever showing them making an end product with their work. It's very gratifying to see shop made tools put to a specific purpose, especially when done so cleverly.
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it.
@melgross
15 күн бұрын
It depends on what we’re doing. Sometimes I have to make a tool to make a tool, to make a tool. The end result is a tool to allow me to make a part that otherwise is too difficult, or complex to make otherwise. Sometimes I can make a tool to directly make a part. Most of the time I already gave the tools, or I just buy them. KZitem requires people to make a fairly regular series of videos in order to make any real money because viewers want regular videos. So it’s a matter to come up with projects. A lot of people like to see tools being made. So I wouldn’t criticize either way.
@alan-sk7ky
14 күн бұрын
Yes very. It's a little disappointing isn't it.
@karlulvestad7155
12 күн бұрын
Yep few things are as annoying as making tools to make tools to make something happen/ solve a problem
@yesihavereadit
11 күн бұрын
Yes you buy a lathe and spend ten years improving it. Can't wait to get one 😢😮😅
@coplandjason
11 күн бұрын
38minutes of first class machining work passed very quickly, very enjoyable video, thanks
@nbrworks
10 күн бұрын
Thanks. Welcome!
@zukowski2023
Күн бұрын
Brilliant machining work, I was holding my breath a few times, but it was needless as it all worked out. Amazing work Sir. Bravo!
@oh8wingman
16 күн бұрын
I turned a female and a male taper much as you did here and they, as yours did, not match. Instead of remachining like you did, I used a grinding compound and lapped them to one another. The final fit was 100%.
@c4t4l4n4
16 күн бұрын
I had the same thought at the end of the video.
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
That was also my first thought. But it was quicker to just re-cut the angle. Thanks!
@willrobertson7778
14 күн бұрын
@@nbrworks @oh8wingman Thanks! Cutting tapers is always difficult!
@cooperised
12 күн бұрын
@@nbrworks Good choice in general., Lapping tapers is tricky and generally doesn't result in a constant taper, because you can't move the parts axially so you end up with rotational symmetry and matching parts but not cones. Fine if you're making two parts to fit each other and nothing else, but no good for making anything interchangeable.
@martinswiney2192
3 сағат бұрын
One thing that can mess you up on male/female tapers fitting properly is the cutting tool has to be precisely on center height wise. Most machinist are trained to run the turning tool just low of center height and a boring bar just a bit high on center. That will make the angle wrong. Some people know this and some do not. Just saying that is something I had to learn the hard way. Fortunately I was working at a job shop machining a big coupling to fit a tapered shaft so I got paid to do it wrong then got paid to do it right. Cost the boss man a $400 coupling.
@Joel-st5uw
15 күн бұрын
I don't know how your channel escaped me for so long. I think your mix of tool making plus using said tool is perfect and this good balance might be unmatched on youtube. Thanks for the satisfying content.
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Thanks Joel!
@Orakwan
16 күн бұрын
I work with cutting edge CNC machines and have access to any tooling I could ever dream of, yet I rarely do works that are as interesting and well thought out as this. You certainly have a vision and a way of achieving the results you're after with the proper means, all with humble machines, and a good mix of home made tooling (and tool!). This is seriously impressive for anyone passionate about restoring carburetors, as well as hobby and professional machinists. But not only that, the video is filmed with great skill. It is so difficult to film machining because of various reasons, notably lighting of highly contrasted shiny metal parts, chip management, focus, and knowing that you usually can afford one take for each operation. All in all the video has a good pace and excellent sound. I feel like I'm watching This Old Tony again, without the dad jokes. Keep it up man
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
Thanks for noticing all the hard work and taking the time to write such a nice comment - it truly touched me. 🙂
@SolarMillUSA
14 күн бұрын
You say this is like This Old Tony without the Dad jokes, but then he goes and ends the episode like @38:30
@joepie221
6 күн бұрын
Thanks for the mention in the video description. Much appreciated. Nice job on the carbs.
@nbrworks
6 күн бұрын
Hi Joe. Your arbor video is awesome. Thank you so much for doing this for us!
@mickgentry8128
15 күн бұрын
A very sharp well made documentation of a well thought out remedy, for a tricky repair / rebuild. Very enjoyable thank you!
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Thanks Mick, glad you liked it.
@zidwid
7 күн бұрын
not only is that a great tool, but the editing and narration on the video was great as well. I really enjoyed watching it. Thank you!
@jamesdavis8021
14 күн бұрын
Very nice work. I once repaired an Obsolete Marvel Schebler carburetor for the engine of my brother’s airplane engine. Was challenging to say the least. I miss making parts for his home built airplanes.When he called me, I knew it was going to be something interesting.
@davejaguar6532
9 күн бұрын
Some very useful ideas here for carby work. Thank you.
@MikeBaxterABC
14 сағат бұрын
24:45 This is PERFECT .. the idea that this tool can easily be used 1000 times, and never change accuracy or strength is very awesome!! In my opinion WELL worth all tis effort, the cost in materials is negligible too!!
@matthewmcbride1379
2 күн бұрын
wonderful. Thanks for posting.
@fd15k
7 күн бұрын
Reamers only ensure that the hole is to size, location wise they offer no guarantees. Boring bar is the way to go when you need the hole to size and in the right place.
@Andreas-tw4cm
15 күн бұрын
Great Work and nicely presented!
@HulluJanne
4 күн бұрын
This is the best thing I've seen in a looong time!
@kentuckytrapper780
15 күн бұрын
Excellent job, a master.
@gyrogearloose1345
4 күн бұрын
Hi NBR, first time here, great to see you working so clean and precise. With interesting explanation and approach to all the aspects and problems of the job. Great video work also. Many thanks! Just one point . . . it would be nice I think to have some drawings or at least sketches, to follow along.
@user-oq7xg8jo5g
16 күн бұрын
Excellent work!
@rupertsuzuki3376
7 күн бұрын
Love the Saran Wrap on the mill, great idea, thanks.
@christianheidt5733
4 күн бұрын
I've done this methodology many times, usually I make a mandrill. Nice job 👍👍👍
@bruceanderson9461
7 күн бұрын
Great video!
@RyanAUS
14 күн бұрын
Great video 👌🏻 Thank you
@melgross
15 күн бұрын
Very nicely done.
@damoek
10 күн бұрын
we need more content like this on youtube! I liked commented and subbed! Keep up the excellent work!
@nbrworks
10 күн бұрын
Hi Daniel, welcome and thanks for the support!
@CS-Sir_Twit
16 күн бұрын
Loving the videos
@sandronewman2286
11 күн бұрын
Awesome. Not really applicable probably since most people don’t have one on hand, but jig grinding these two bores would be the way to go to get them dead on in line with one another. I ran a Moore No. 2 at one point and super precise hole, slot, etc. location size and alignment were its specialty. Thanks again very glad to have stumbled onto your channel
@williampowell2078
18 сағат бұрын
Setting up to establish and maintain a datum plane or axis is always worth it, but it takes time and forethought. Your process is solid.
@MrPod15
12 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@roadshowautosports
Күн бұрын
This lathe of yours is an ANIMAL!!!!! ❤❤❤❤❤
@giovannicintolo89
6 сағат бұрын
Great work! when setting your compound angle, mount an indicator on the toolpost, square to the workpiece. You can then set your angle based on the travel of the indicator vs. the travel of the compound. For very sensitive angles, this will get you closer than the graduations on the compound can.
@be007
15 күн бұрын
nice job ! cheers ben.
@jimsvideos7201
16 күн бұрын
Very well done.
@billhanson4921
8 күн бұрын
very impressive work
@johnpartridge7623
13 күн бұрын
I've just found your Channel & subscribed, very good Video.
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Thanks John, welcome!
@RustyInventions-wz6ir
16 күн бұрын
Very nice work.
@dariushmilani6760
11 күн бұрын
I very much enjoyed your machining content.👍 Liked and Subscribed.
@nbrworks
11 күн бұрын
Welcome Dariush!
@cipriandavid4995
Күн бұрын
beautiful!
@boltonky
2 күн бұрын
Great work :) , not being an engineer by trade you learn pretty quick its not the tools that cost but having the correct measurement tools so you can actually do stuff and then its endless if you have the skills (and the right lathe ofcourse) - Keep up the great work
@nbrworks
2 күн бұрын
Thanks!
@SmaulPart-pb5hm
15 күн бұрын
A very thoughtful piece of work holding. If you intend to use the mandrel alot, have you considered drilling a hole at the root of the slits? If you are concerned with fatigue it would be a good idea. Thanks for the video.
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
Hi, that is a great idea, yes. It was also suggested by another viewer and I will do it. Thank you so much!
@shaunkarr5641
9 күн бұрын
Who is this man? This is high level. The tools he's using are very very nice. The grinding tool for d2 was sick. Ahh yes, at the end where the shaft was tight after reaming was caused by the carburator flexing together because material was moved. Like, once you ream out the bearing the part must flex between both holes.
@JB-yp6bd
14 күн бұрын
awesome work. new subscriber!
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Welcome!
@Chris-te7uk
10 күн бұрын
If you are getting long curly chips like that, increase the feed rate. This will usually cause the chip to break. Some materials are just hard to get a chip to break tho, and will naturally produce long and stringy chips, but usually increasing the feed rate will do the trick.
@johnkurpiewski3996
9 күн бұрын
I imagine the reamer did deflect, when you where talking about at the end of the video. Have you ever put an indicator on the end end of the reamer while it’s chucked up in the spindle and touch it with your finger ?It’s amazing how much long tools can deflect and with such little force.
@gags730
12 күн бұрын
Dead Nuts with heavy cuts! Nice
@georgedreisch2662
16 күн бұрын
Think that a stop drill hole at the end of the expansion slots would reduce the probability of cracking.
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
That's a good suggestion. Thanks!
@melgross
15 күн бұрын
That’s what they’re for.
@danielalexan80
8 күн бұрын
I think you need to use a machinist jack to support your part while reaming to improve the straightness of the holes.
@Heptode
10 күн бұрын
You are correct: a reamer will tend to follow a drilled hole. Very interesting video. What make and model of lathe is that?
@rexmundi8154
15 күн бұрын
Very clever.
@willrobertson7778
14 күн бұрын
You've done an amazingly beautiful job of both the internal collet and the finished carburettor! ♥ The only reason that I can think of for the brass rod sticking is that I think a bushing and the part passing through it are usually made out of dissimilar metals - e.g. steel and bronze, etc. - it may be that making both from brasses that are similar may cause problems. I sometimes use adjustable reamers that can be adjusted by maybe c. 200 μm or 8 thou - that lets the reamer be adjusted to get exactly the sort of fit that I want. I've heard of a soft wood rod or plastic rod being turned to the right size then used with some grinding paste as a hone to very slightly increase the diameter of a reamed hole and give a surface finish which holds lubricating oil.
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Thanks Will. That's some good points. thanks! 👍
@dc6233
12 күн бұрын
I would just use some lapping compound. It's kind of a lousy set up, it has to be loose enough to pivot, but not so loose that air can enter the butterfly valve. Seems like it needs an o-ring somewhere.
@cipedead0777
4 күн бұрын
I worked in a tool shop for years. Next time you need to do a part like this (with open slots) I would put wax or a 24 hour epoxy. This will fill the slots and stop the tool from getting If you need the size. Make a ring to slip over it
@ironworkerfxr7105
14 күн бұрын
Wow,,those will be some fine SU .
@kerrywil1
14 күн бұрын
Very nice
@DieselRamcharger
Күн бұрын
you can def do this in a mill. you use something like a mitee bite ID expansion clamp. which is essentially the tool you made...but the mitee bites are flat on the bottom. for holding round parts in a mill :)
@nbrworks
20 сағат бұрын
I didn't know these clamps, thank you so much for sharing!
@cncsphere
9 күн бұрын
With regard to the stiff shafting. Would they be smoother if you just drilled the shaft holes all the way through when removing the old bushings vs stopping before the bore on each side?
@jobkneppers
11 күн бұрын
Quite an elaborate exercise. Your chasing microns in all of your work. The quality shows and I suspect you like to make accurate parts as a purpose. I also guess/hope that you will be using the steel mandril for more carburetors to come. I made a lot of expanding arbors for grabbing parts on a bore over the years. I made them out of aluminium because of the high friction coefficient. I turned the diameter close to the required size within 0,5 mm or something in the neighborhood. Drilled a hole, countersunk it and tapped a thread. Then I went to the band saw and cut four sections of 90 degrees each. Went back to the lathe and mounted a countersunk screw which I tightened lightly. Then I cut the diameter to size and mounted the part by tightening the countersunk screw. Real easy and fast like in 15 minutes or so. I saved quite a collection by now because it's easy to cut them slightly smaller for a new job. Don't re-chuck them for the same size because you'll end up with run out. Another nice and quick solution is the use of expanding sleeves on a hardened and ground conical pin. It's a commercial item and the pin is reused but the mating sleeve get's turned to size. One side in a collet chuck and the far end supported with a live center. Tap on the sleeve gently and turn it to size, mount your part and tap the sleeve towards the spindle so it expands. I have a collection from 4 to 10 mm which is quick and easy compared to making your own expanding arbor. Last but not least I own a set of Chinese C5 expanding arbors with imperial sizes. I'm a metric guy so I don't use them like so. I mount a sleeve with the inner diameter the same as the arbor. Tighten it a little (thin walled always) and turn the OD. Then I can directly mount a part on the sleeve and expand it with the C5 drawbar. Furthermore a reamer doesn't correct alignment much. It just follows the existing hole more or less. A long story but maybe there's something useful for the reader. Thank you for sharing your journey. For me it's my day job so I try to be precise the quickest I can ;-) Best! Job
@nbrworks
11 күн бұрын
Hi Job! Thanks for taking the time to write and share your experience and thoughts. I think I know the expanding sleeve/conical pin type of arbor you are referring to, but having a bridge (the bridge for the jet) in the middle of the bore doesn't help. Also some of these bodies have some steps machined inside, which limit the length the expanding "head" can have. That's why I made this tool, it ends up being very specific for the application. I count on using it in the future, the setup is very easy and I found to be repeatable. Not sure if you've seen that part, but I turned the final O.D. to size like you explained, with the arbor slightly expanded - that's to have a constant O.D. along the "head" when it is expanded to the desired dimension (the bore of the carb). I'm not a professional, I've been only using the lathe for around a year, so I'm learning. Again, thanks for giving useful feedback :)
@jobkneppers
10 күн бұрын
@@nbrworks Major reconsideration about your video; if you're going to reuse the arbor on a regular basis it''s a valid explanation for the used material (steel or stainless) and all of the effort to be repeatable again next time. If it's just for correcting two carburetors I think it's over the top and an one ore two sacrificial aluminium ones would do the job perfectly much faster (and cheaper business wise). A true toolmaker knows when he can be rough and knows when he should be precise. A dear friend of mine is a toolmaker and rebuild his house by himself 30+ years ago. It took ages and his wife complained about the pace, To clarify; he used a caliper to cut his wooden window frames. That's exaggerating too; fit for purpose is the way to go. Best! Job
@preacherpdx5519
Күн бұрын
If you bolt down the carburetor flange with the sticky shaft, does the sticky go away? Just a thought. I know with the aluminum LS block, the crankshaft is sticky until heads are bolted on. Great Video. I once dreamt of restoring vintage carburetors and now with a mill and a lathe you make me rethink having thunked it. Thank you
@rallymax2
14 күн бұрын
Deep cuts. High feed rates. Making custom fixturing and tooling. SU carbs reminding me of my young adulthood Sprite. BIG TIME Subbing to your channel!
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Welcome!
@jdsstegman
14 күн бұрын
Great video. I have been doing exactly this for about 25 years now. I repair old engines and I have the same issues. I use two tapered cones and put them in both ends to self center. Like you said, flat but not surface plate flat.
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Hi! Thanks, nice to have the perspective of someone with so much experience. Cheers
@1crazypj
14 күн бұрын
That was some nice machining, parts turned out well, far better than the original manufacturer ever considered possible. I am a little surprised you didn't radius all the internal sharp edges while you were in there with flex shaft grinder? Back in the day it was much more common to have sheet of emery paper on a flat surface to correct bow on flanges, exactly how you did it. Milling machines were a 'luxury' few shops had and cost at machine shops was far too high for majority of people. There were aftermarket kits for the bushings, just drill them out and hammer them in (then spend time with a file and emery cloth fixing the burrs). I imagine they have been out of production for 50 years or more by now though? You should have drilled holes at end of expansion slots, it would mean there is less material to flex. You could still do it but will need to use a center cutting end mill. Using Morse taper adapter as an extension for center may give more clearance but it's going to be very flexible when you have any side loads (as in turning) and probably reason for chatter? All in all, a very interesting video. Are you (or have you) done a video on rebuilding the SU carbs? I had them on my first car (1966 Rover)
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Hi, nice to have you back! I might add some small radius in certain points, but I want to do it carefully and focused, not in an awkward position with the camera in the way. I believe Burlen in the UK still sells service kits. I have one I bought several years ago, it came with steel bushings, coated with teflon inside, but in my point of view, they leave a little bit too much play for the shafts. That's why I didn't use them. I also believe Burlen replaces them, as in a service they provide, but I don't know details about that. Regarding the holes at the end of the expansion slots, I will do them, like you say, plunging a center cutting endmill, this was also suggested by other viewers (thank you). The morse taper extension... it's a good point. I bought the extension because I needed the clearance, but I also thought it was going to flex a lot and be unreliable (or reliably give bad results). But in fact, I can't complain. At 2:02 there's an example of that. Until something changes, I'd say that extention is working for me. At least it's better than having the tailstock fully extended 😉 Video with the full rebuild of the carbs... no, I haven't done that yet. I still need to take care of some things first: pistons and chambers, choke mechanism (I need to invent something to make it work), take care of the manifold, air filters, etc. But I'll make that video, that's guaranteed. Thanks!
@BrorAppelsin
16 күн бұрын
Really surprising how much difference there is between the castings as they should be pretty similar.
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
Both bodies were not originally a set, I'm pretty sure I have mixed up some parts looking for the best ones to make 'my set'. But looking at them I wouldn't say they had 0.5mm (actually more) of difference. Some of these bodies don't have a take off for the distributor vacuum and others don't have a way to mount the choke lever cam, that's why I mixed and matched until I got what I need. Thanks!
@user-ox6nc6ly7f
4 күн бұрын
yep! i did it with an engine block.
@42468
3 күн бұрын
how did you stop the pores in the oilite from smearing shut when reaming them? is a sharp reamer enough?
@Capnmax
3 күн бұрын
My only disappointment was no vroom vroom sounds when you twisted the throttle shaft in the carb.
@nicolaschampagne8988
13 күн бұрын
nice video :) by the way, what is your milling machine ?
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Hi, it's from Amadeal. Model 25LV. If you are in the US, it's very similar to Precision Matthews PM-25MV.
@wizardind3203
14 күн бұрын
drill and tap pipe thread npt spit twice with band saw a pipe plug will expand the arbor
@ObservationofLimits
2 күн бұрын
He sounds like a guy that's probably in a place that uses a lot of metric and British straight. British taper would probably be more common in EU than NPT. But I wouldn't know as I have never had to plumb in Europe 🤣 But taper threads definitely sounds like a better idea if he's not running an expander plug with a matched angle. Less work involved, off the shelf replacement parts.
@benwilj1
11 күн бұрын
What about a press fit shaft installed with thermal expansion? I would imagine the aluminum carb would expand quicker than the stainless rod so a quick hit with the torch would release it.
@ED_T
16 күн бұрын
What kind of steel is that you’re working with? It seems to cut like butter 😍
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
Hi Edward, it's free machining steel. ISO 11SMnPb37 / AISI 12L14. Thanks
@ObservationofLimits
2 күн бұрын
Basically 1018 with more sulphur and lead to increase machinability.
@andyvan5692
11 күн бұрын
at 5:15 a great tool, but maybe try a different tack, aka use a split collar, on this arbour, and have the arbour undersize, so a bush and tapered ends fit on, and a shoulder on one end, and a nut, they tighten and expand the sleeve, tightening the fit. another 'turn key' solution uses a rubber material which expands on tightening ( on press brakes, and such, for pipe working), maybe the way to go?- to have a more solid core, and adaptors, rather than putting all the force onto a smaller thinner part?
@ObservationofLimits
2 күн бұрын
The problem with the rubber plug idea is that it likely lacks the rigidity needed for accurate turning and maintaining concentricity with the bore.
@leximatic
7 күн бұрын
There is an old saying, that carburetor stuff is a science. Now i understand why.
@mrrw0lf
2 күн бұрын
if u want the chips to break increase feed and spindle speed
@Roobotics
16 күн бұрын
31:24 I wonder if an 'oldham coupling' would be a good choice for this, unless it needs the 'give' and spring the metal can provide. But it just seems more built to cost. Also modern day 'spring couplings' like those used in 3d printers could have those properties and likely better concentricity.
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
Yes, there are better functional choices, but something I didn't mention in the video was 'looks'. Being for a classic car, I'm trying to keep these carburetors 'in period'. That actually influences a lot of decisions. Thanks!
@CSGATI
11 күн бұрын
The chipbreaker is not working because you are feeding it to slow.
@ZenMinus
11 күн бұрын
Great video showing interesting techniques etc. But this is overkill to replace the bushings. It does not matter if the mounting faces are perpendicular to the bore or not. It does not matter if the two mounting faces are parallel or not. In this instance all that is required to achieve the end result was to use the same technique used at the 26:22 mark. 😁 Mounting and packing to align the pin. Having said all that it is still a great video showing useful techniques to others so well done 😊👍
@trevorvanbremen4718
10 сағат бұрын
Expertly machined to some AMAZING tolerances!!! Based upon my own (heavily limited) experience, that's just plain WRONG for an SU carbie... (They come from the FACTORY with 2mm differences in venturi sizes!) Once again though... WELL DONE!!!
@_Par1ah
10 күн бұрын
If you had one of the hobbyist wire edm machines you could have cut that expanding head without a care in the world. Only run about $1000 for a 3 axis 10 gallon fish tank setup and probably be invaluable for tricky fragile cutting
@henrysiegertsz8204
10 күн бұрын
Can you imagine the cost of what you just did, if you were charging for a one off part restoration? E.g., I just restored an old Minolta camera, it took me 25 hours to complete and for that I didn't need to make any parts. The camera cost me £23, the best price I'd get for it would be around £100, so at a modest charge rate of £25 / hour, that would be £625, that's £525 more than the camera is worth.
@nbrworks
10 күн бұрын
Hi, this is not customer work, I did it to enjoy myself. But I'll bite (in a good way 😀 ). I took 17 days to make this tool and the dog driver in the previous video. Some nights and a few weekend days - because I have a different full time job. I can't give you the exact number of hours, but let's say it was 2 hours per night (it wasn't) and 12 hours on weekends. 54 hours at 25gbp/hour that's 1350gbp (which isn't fair because I spend a lot of time setting up the camera). Add 10gbp for materials. Maybe more 20 to account for the bushings and the specific 5/16 long reamer that I bought second hand. Sure there's a huge initial cost, but what about this? - The repair of an H2 carburetor is currently at 300gbp + VAT, each!! Source: www.sucarb.co.uk/restoration-prices - Rebushing is 80gbp - not sure if that's included in the 'repair service' - Labour is at 70gbp/hour, again not sure if included in the repair service - With the new tool I can reface both carburetor flanges in 10/15 minutes max, accurately and in a repeatable way. - That added confidence for my rebushing and learning process - Like I've shown in the video, I might be restoring a few more sets. Maybe 10? 15? To me I feel like this was worth it. Starting with satisfying myself because I wanted to take the challenge. In terms of business, I understand it might not be worth it. Hence the title of the video 😅 But these parts are not cheap to repair and there's another important aspect - some of them are quite rare, so it's better to avoid mistakes - that's also why I don't mind having some trouble once in order to simplify future repetitive work. Hope this makes some sense! Thanks
@excitedbox5705
2 күн бұрын
When your arbor expands do you get any issues with the sides not being parallel ie. tilted out? I would think with a ~10 inch distance between flange and arbor contact surface that would create quite a bit of play. This is why normally you would use 2 cones screwed on a shaft, one in each flange to keep the inner bore level.
@nbrworks
2 күн бұрын
Hi, the challenge with this tool was to make the sides parallel. Have a second look at 20:16. The ring shown is to 'lock' the jaws expanded (so they don't break) while I make the final passes and take the arbor to size. By doing that, I got the sides parallel when the arbor expands to 31.71mm. The end result of this is non-detectable runout and a very repeatable setup. If you look at the comparison done on the surface plate, I got each body parallel within 0.0005" (0.01mm) and that was after removing several times from the arbor to check the progress. That's why I say the setup is repeatable. Of course you can argue that 1 1/4 inches (the bore size) is closer to 31.75mm so there's theorethically another 0.04mm difference, but after averaging the bores with the internal micrometer I found out that 31.70 was actually the bore/arbor size. Hope this makes sense. Thanks
@jumpyjr142
3 күн бұрын
Hey King, not trying to be judgemental, just helpful It's said 'crook-ed' Two syllables
@robstirling3173
13 күн бұрын
I would have kept the old bushes and turned 2 o ring grooves on the shaft. Do you have the flexible link to join the shafts? It would have been a good idea to keep the pistons and dashpots that were matched to the carb bodies together.
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
The shafts are linked using a pair of couplings, have a look at 31:17. But I think I know what you mean by flexible link, I have some H1s (1 1/8") that have a flexible link, but not the H2s (at least not the ones I have). The pistons I'll be using will not be the originals - I'll be using the quick lift type. Thanks
@dc6233
12 күн бұрын
It does need an o-ring in the mix, how can a shaft be loose enough to pivot, but not so loose that air is allowed to leak in?? Unless it's factored into the jetting, I'd think it would be far more relaible with a seal of some type.
@nbrworks
12 күн бұрын
Originally none of these types of carburetor have seals. That's why it is so important to have as less play as possible. Look up for h2 or hs2 or h4 (bigger size) diagrams on google - you'll find exploded views with all parts.
@EricB420
16 күн бұрын
Very impressed with the way you machined these. Where did you find the lowered tool holder at 21:09 ? 21:09
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
Hi Eric, I'll look it up and get back to you.
@nbrworks
11 күн бұрын
Hi again, it was purchased here: www.arceurotrade.co.uk/ Look for reference '090-070-00407'. Thanks
@EricB420
11 күн бұрын
@@nbrworks thanks a lot !!
@bigbattenberg
12 күн бұрын
Those chips are dangerous. The solution is always to increase the feed rate, 0.3 mm/ rev is a good starting point and you can go much higher. This will also save time obviously. For a finish cut, leave about 0.3 mm radially (at least the amount of the insert's nose radius) and use a lower feed rate of about 0.1 mm/ rev. And please stay well clear of the machine especially with those long chips, once they wrap around the workpiece you can instantly get hurt very badly.
@nbrworks
12 күн бұрын
I had one long chip at the beginning and then played with it a little bit to see where it went. I was away from the machine and initially guided the chips to the floor, they weren't getting near the chuck (but it only takes a split second to happen, I know). I also don't usually take such heavy cuts. I tried to increase the feed but the motor couldn't keep up. For the next cuts, where the chips are breaking, I reduced the depth of cut. Anyway, thanks for the heads up, I'll be mindful of showing 'bad examples'' next time. Cheers
@tcmits3699
14 сағат бұрын
@@nbrworksalso, friendly suggestion, please don't use your finger to test surface finish while machine is running. Nice work, though, but there viewers who notice every little detail. Take care
@Masheeable
3 күн бұрын
When you don't have any silicone gasket maker around, it's good to know you've got the machining skills to kludge together an alternate fix. ;-)
@martinniemi3778
8 күн бұрын
spray some water under your sandpaper to keep the edges down while trying to geet parts flat!!
@nbrworks
6 күн бұрын
Thanks for the tip! (don't tell anyone, that was the bathroom scale 😄)
@boblordylordyhowie
11 күн бұрын
Thanks for the interesting video and a lot of it was boring, but if it hadn't, you would never have been able to make the tool.
@robjaimiehickford4559
5 күн бұрын
Using 680 loctite with activator will have you machining again in 20 to 30 mins or less.
@user-fy2tm2jg6c
15 күн бұрын
What is your native language? I always like learning new accents when traveling.
@kendion4597
15 күн бұрын
Lot of work to flatten a bottom of a part that isn't a critical size. Sand paper would have been fine. Still great work , even if it was way overkill
@MikeBaxterABC
14 сағат бұрын
28:34 Loctite becomes liquid at 500 F (260 C) ...The carburettor should not approach those temperatures, in normal use.
@foogee9971
14 күн бұрын
great work again, thank you very much! 👍 why did you use such a long boring head to bore the bronce bushings and the chamfers...i would be afraid of chatter...although they came out great, so what : )
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Hi, nice to have you back! It was a matter of using what I have available. The boring head takes 12mm tools. I don't think I have any broken tools with 12mm shanks (to grind), and the 6mm boring bar shown at 8:16 looked perfect for the job, including the 12mm sleeve (coincidence?). I thought of cutting it in half, but not without trying it first. And it went well for the boring. For the chamfering I seriously considered cutting it, also because the carb body is very long, hollow, and was only clamped at the bottom. But the tool was sharp and I gave it a go. If you look in the video I didn't let it rub, I was quick to feed, let it cut and retract immediately. I think that if I let it rub it would chatter. I definitely need to get a shorter sleeve though.
@foogee9971
12 күн бұрын
@@nbrworks thank you for the answer 👍 i think you are right, the quick retract was the key. nice to see, that it worked out : )
@artemiypolozhintsev6190
10 күн бұрын
Nice video! I think reamers are supposed to be a little flexible to change only the hole diameter, but not position. So you can't use them to fix position or alignment errors.
@OuroborosArmory
13 күн бұрын
@35:11. I was worried. You are now separate from the animals
@MikeBaxterABC
14 сағат бұрын
38:32 ... How else could this be done?? Without sourcing the original casting moulds?? Maybe 3D print an entire carburetor?? I am not sure if that's even possible yet?
@MikeBaxterABC
14 сағат бұрын
27:45 I assumed you would use a reamer at some point ... 29:37 .. Ahhh!!! :) and 30:26 :)
@chauvinemmons
12 күн бұрын
My friend let me tell you you take this part without the ring diameter make a matching plug using the same angle. You may wish to use a shalower angle but nothing less than 10 deg and take your plug much deeper into the mandrel don't neck it down so much unless you must where ever the relief is you must take the saw cuts into the relief You can apply the expansion plug utilizing your Live center and pull it out with what we call a Russian hammer a puller. Use a heavy Molly Grease the key to this whole thing finish all your diameters you cut the mandrel slots on a band saw last deburr neatly with a small Jewelers file. If you have a nice diameter it's easy enough to re indicate in especially if you dump that three jaw Chuck and only use a four jaw if you think about it it is so easy do not let it scare you 3jaw chucks are lame inaccurate even I only use them for soft Jaws where we us a setting ring or mandrel and then they are cut to suit the part. Looking at your part is almost perfect as long as it's bigger at the big end that is all that really does the pushing I think your angle is too sharp and the entire mandrill is too short try boring almost all the way to the shoulder leaving only a small amount like maybe a quarter inch wall to do the actual outward movement
@chauvinemmons
12 күн бұрын
The easiest solution you make your mandrel drill a small hole for your pipe tap use a pipe tap reamer and tap deep enough to apply half of the tapered pipe plug. you use a tapered pipe plug to open the mandrel but again you must finish all your diameters when it is solid drill and tap the pipe plug thread use a bandsaw to cut the slots last debur very carefully with a small Jewelers file and fine sandpaper. Done easy peasy
@chauvinemmons
12 күн бұрын
You know they make external centers as well
@corybuckles8492
9 күн бұрын
Beautiful work, and an excellent video. You have a new subscriber. I can't offer any commentary or recommendations on the machining process--I'm not a machinist myself, just a guy who enjoys watching the process done by others. I am, however, a native English speaker, so I'll say that your English is absolutely fantastic for a non-native speaker. There is one word you mispronounced several times in the video, though, and I totally understand why. "Crooked" is a weird word in English. You pronounced it exactly the way it seems like it should be, but it's actually "CROOK-ed." The e is pronounced as it is in words like "crowded" or "listed." English is a linguistic nightmare...
@nbrworks
9 күн бұрын
Hi Cory, welcome! Thanks for the feedback about the word "crooked". It makes sense now, but I can't change the video at this point. I guess the next time I say it, it'll be better. Again, thanks!
@MikeBaxterABC
14 сағат бұрын
5:14 This is a special drill bit?? What is it called?. it has "raised flutes" ? 8:05 Close up
@ophirb25
13 күн бұрын
Maybe I didn't understand the arbor design, but if it is expanding only on one side, how much contact it gives with the bore? Seems the bore will only be griped by a small portion at the front, which might get the part not to be aligned properly. Again maybe I didn't understand how the arbor works.
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Hi, I tried to explain in the video, but maybe I wasn't clear. I'm sorry for that. Your reasoning is correct, have a second look from 20:06. I made 2 light passes with the arbor expanded until I reached the desired dimension, which was an average of the bore sizes (checked using the micrometer). That's what I am measuring at 21:20 - the arbor is 'straight' when it is expanded to 31.71mm. These last 2 cuts were the challenge of making this arbor and why I used that ring to make it solid (so it wouldn't break). Hope this helps. The setup is very repeatable - I was surprised by that!
@ophirb25
13 күн бұрын
@@nbrworks Thanks for the detailed info. I didn't understand that it was expanded at these cuts. 👍
@ophirb25
13 күн бұрын
BTW I made once this kind of arbor but it expend from both sides. Was very hard to make especially not having a proper milling machine.
@nbrworks
13 күн бұрын
Were you trying to control the expansion of both ends, to be the same? That sounds complicated!
@ophirb25
13 күн бұрын
@@nbrworks It had a taper for it's whole length and the slots were cut much like the slots of a ER collet. The plug went almost all the length of the arbor, so when tighten, both ends would expand. It worked very well for the purpose I made it, but was a pain to make (an enjoyable pain though)...🤩
@mark0305
Күн бұрын
oh the puns in the video title i love the internet
@nbrworks
20 сағат бұрын
😅
@camillosteuss
16 күн бұрын
``dis is de wey brothers!`` nah m8, this is the way, lest you have a full blown shop with 20 different machines and 200 tonnes of cast iron in them, this is the way... I have a few ideas on my mind, but nothing revolutionary to your setup... Just some modifiers, but for once, i will not leave a 1000 word essay in the comments... The job has been done great... I guess you could have set that finished flange on the cross slide and line bored the both bushings in a single setup, stroke by stroke, thus inducing even more precision to the flatness of the line that passes through the centers of both bushing bores, but that is a bitch of a setup in it`s own way, and the requirements of this part are not that of an optical prism... Glad to see the center/driver in use... That was a damn fine design, and that calipers ``depth mic`` accessory is something that i`ve had on my mind for a while now... I`ve seen a design print for such a piece and it`s been on my mind for over a few years actually... Very cool idea and i`m most pleased to see it implemented by someone... How do you find it? I know that the calipers rod ain`t all that great for measurements, but when nothing else fits the hole/depth, damn is it useful to at least be able to roughly measure it... Best regards! Steuss
@nbrworks
15 күн бұрын
Hey Steuss! Thanks, I didn't think of that setup in the cross-slide. That's interesting, but like you said, more time consuming to get right. Glad you found the driver interesting as well. The calipers depth attachment is something I got long before I had the mill and the lathe, it's really useful for quick measurements where precision is relative. I purchased mine through ebay. I made a quick search and looks like it's still available - it's an "iGaging". If you look for 'depth caliper adapter' or 'depth caliper base' you should find it. Looks like there are other brands, by I don't know those. Mine is ground and the base is lapped. The quality really is OK for what it is and costs. Thanks!
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