This answers so many questions I had about these flares. Thank you for all the videos you do. I have learned a lot from you and I’m putting that knowledge to use on my 67 Mustang.
@MarkCarr331
5 жыл бұрын
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO! This sheds so much light on this mod i want to do on my car. my quarter is rotted anyway and needs to cut out and replaced, this might be easier route since I decided to go Widebody Custom on my 65 Fastback
@chrissouther3866
5 жыл бұрын
I now have a busy fall... Thanks Mr. Maire, thanks. :)
@Izvitoy
4 жыл бұрын
THIS ANSWERS ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING
@jimalexander9424
3 жыл бұрын
Would have been good to have the technician verbally explain or a narrator each step. Overall good video.
@emm5alcaz
5 жыл бұрын
is it the same cut on the quarter panel for the 2.5 fender flares ?
@maierracing558
5 жыл бұрын
Yes.... C. maier
@theomnipotentt4367
2 жыл бұрын
Is the 2.5 the same molding as the 3.25 just with a smaller lip or is the molding smaller not covering up as much of the rear quarter as the 3.25?
@maierracing558
2 жыл бұрын
Yes... Cm
@erikvonkohler5253
4 жыл бұрын
Which flares are these? 2.5" or 3.25". Judging from the pictures on your site the wide body, more bubble flares, are the 3.25 but want to be sure before making up my mind. Makes a great look
@charlesmaier2509
4 жыл бұрын
3.25" in the video
@erikvonkohler5253
4 жыл бұрын
@@charlesmaier2509 Thank you for the reply. I will be ordering shortly
@raywetzel7538
4 жыл бұрын
Hey quick question I’m working on a 1966 mustang and was thinking about going with the 3.25 inch flares for the rear. What’s the wheel size specs in terms of backspacing and width ?
@charlesmaier2509
4 жыл бұрын
We did a 18" x 315 in the video. I would say it is BEST if you have the tire and wheel mounted up and ready BEFORE you start. There is a little wiggle room on these flares. If you are running a leaf spring... 4.5" to 5" backspacing. Measure it 2x on your own car to be sure!!!
@raywetzel7538
3 жыл бұрын
Charles Maier thank you I appreciate the info
@jjuarezzzzz
4 жыл бұрын
What size flares are these? Looking to get some on my 68 coupe and wondering if these would look good on 17x10.5 torq thrust II’s? Looks amazing!
Charles Maier awesome thanks! Would you recommend these on a 10.5 wide wheel out back? Or would that be too small? In the future I’m looking to upgrade to an 11 just wondering for the time being 👍🏼
@charlesmaier2509
4 жыл бұрын
We have run both 10.5 & 11.. up to 315 with leafs
@davyhay1
Жыл бұрын
This is certainly my top option for my 1966 restomod build. Has there ever been any issues with the fiberglass bonded to metal/filler cracking from vehicle flex?
@maierracing558
Жыл бұрын
Great question~ 90% of the time the issues are around not prepping the surfaces correctly. Surfaces need to be rough (36 grit sand paper rough). Clean, acetone or thinner. 3M panel bond is a great option. 08115..? pretty sure that is the part number for what we use. Best of luck! cm
@davyhay1
Жыл бұрын
@@maierracing558 Thanks so much! I like the idea of using panel bond in addition to the glassing the part to bare metal. Last question: What if anything is recommended to seal the bare metal behind the flare to prevent possible rust?
@maierracing558
Жыл бұрын
@@davyhay1 I would use something like a primer etch that is intended for Direct to metal surfaces.
@PeterHatch-mx7zc
4 жыл бұрын
You make it look like easy but more very helpful !! Where do your buy the flares thks please
@charlesmaier2509
4 жыл бұрын
www.maierracing.com/product/65-66-roman-flares/
@harvey3965
2 жыл бұрын
Where do u get those flares. I’d like to get sum for my 1970 mustang. Front and rear
@maierracing558
2 жыл бұрын
Hi Harvey3965! Maier Racing does make 1970 Mustang flares, but they are different looking than what are for the 1967-68 Mustang ones. Give us a call 510-581-7600.
@runincoach
4 жыл бұрын
I didn’t realize Florida Orange Juice was so versatile! 😁 On a serious note... my concern is how well does resin work as an adhesive to metal? Will it hold up long term or just become brittle, shrink and/or crack at the seem, possibly destroying an expensive paint job. Thoughts?
@maierracing558
4 жыл бұрын
Yes, the Orange juice is part of the Maier magic!! ;-) You know, there are (2) answers to this question. Not really short.. From 1970... something, my dad and the guys here have done the rear flares THIS WAY... And quite honestly, my back ground is in advanced composites and really working with higher end materials for bonding etc... I am personally going to lean in the direction of 3M panel bond for the suggested adhesive. I have found recently on my OWN 1960 Mini build that the polyester resin and fiberglass is not sticking in some areas of my metal shell, this could be because my metal finish was smooth??? I have worked around it and SINCERELY speaking, I have not see flares out of our shop come back (after the fact)... have cracking issues... So... I am a bit torn. Today...I think 3M has a better offering for DIRECT TO METAL ADHESIVES.... Go that route... All the best~ Charles Maier
@runincoach
4 жыл бұрын
Awesome, thanks for your time and keep up the great work!
@SomeGuy905
3 жыл бұрын
@@maierracing558 I have tried 3 times to glass in a hood scoop on my mustang. I found that it is a hopeless venture, to say the least. When the car sits out in the summer sun, the metal heats up, and starts contracting, then when the sun goes down, it expands back out. The fiberglass heats up some, but it doesn't move with the metal. So I get a terrible crack around the piece. I finally 3M Panel Bonded the scoop on, and left the seam... instead of trying to mold it in. I hope this helps someone
@maierracing558
3 жыл бұрын
@@SomeGuy905 There is more to what you are seeing than the heat of the summer sun. It DEFINITELY contributes.. The heat of the engines is higher than the heat of the sun. It is the cycles of all the heating up and cooling down. You don't get that in the quarter panels. I actually try to talk people out of bonding flares on the front metal fenders (near that heat source) or the hood but we still sell them.. Charles Maier
@Trust-Nick
3 жыл бұрын
what size wheels & tires would i have to buy im wanting to do this to my 66
@maierracing558
3 жыл бұрын
It is best to email us the question. There are variables like the suspension package that may restrict the options. sales@maierracing.com
@jonbarnett6132
6 ай бұрын
The thing that would scare me though, is when is the fiberglass going to seperate from the steel, and ruin an expensive paint job?? Vibration and time will cause cracks and seperation.
@Trust-Nick
3 жыл бұрын
How much do u think it would cost to have these installed by someone
@maierracing558
3 жыл бұрын
This is a difficult question to answer. Our shop has charged in the past from $1400 to $2000. Depends on the car and the details..
@NEWORLEANSYAT
Жыл бұрын
Ok. I’m about to start my 1965 2.5 rear flares. I’m not a pro. Just a guy in a garage with some skills. Can I use the 6 1/4 measurement used in this video?
@maierracing558
Жыл бұрын
Good morning! The real answer is that you want to feel up into the wheel wheel and find the top/flat of the wheel well. You want the new inner to start at the flat. If you cut lower for example, you will be loosing the wheel travel/space as the old metal wheel well arch is headed down past the flat. Follow?
@NEWORLEANSYAT
Жыл бұрын
@@maierracing558 hey thanks. Well that measure out to be 6 1/4 lol. How do you determine how much to cut back from the 2 bottom ends of the wheel well? At 4:10 on the video it looks like the gentleman just eyeballed it. At 5:16 the is the inner fender cut where it flattens out?
@maierracing558
Жыл бұрын
@@NEWORLEANSYAT The bottom isn't really doing much for you so, yes, blending it is the key...
@NEWORLEANSYAT
Жыл бұрын
@@maierracing558 question. I will be bonding my flares with 3M Panel Bond. Should the flare be bonded over epoxy primer or bare metal. If bare metal how would I protect the bare metal under the flare? There is no way to prime any bare metal where there is no panel bond.
@maierracing558
Жыл бұрын
@@NEWORLEANSYAT We have bonded over bare metal and epoxy. If you bond to the (dry) epoxy, be sure to scuff and clean the surface well.
@monsterstang
5 жыл бұрын
What about the space from the inner wheelhouse to the flare?
@charlesmaier2509
5 жыл бұрын
Good question. On THIS PARTICULAR car we did not touch it. The guys wanted to media blast the undercoating off. So we waited. Normally we would fiberglass the flare to the wheel well so that it is all e=sealed up.
@monsterstang
5 жыл бұрын
@@charlesmaier2509 Is there a pre made panel for that or its custom?
@iesparra
2 жыл бұрын
Hi, where did you got these fenders?
@maierracing558
2 жыл бұрын
www.maierracing.com/product/bill-maier-tribute-kit/ YOU CAN ALSO BUY THEM INDIVIDUALLY... Cm-
@maierracing558
2 жыл бұрын
We make the flares right here at Maier Racing. 510-581-7600
@maierracing558
2 жыл бұрын
OOOOPS!! That was the 67 68 Car... Here is the 65 link: www.maierracing.com/product/65-66-roman-flares/
@psiewert83
3 жыл бұрын
It looks like he didn't patch any of the slots left in the upper fender well. Way would just reek havoc on your interior.
@maierracing558
3 жыл бұрын
We cover the bare metal in fiberglass to seal it up. Might not have been clear in this video.
@psiewert83
3 жыл бұрын
@@maierracing558 oh excellent. Thank you.
@RS-gh2mf
3 жыл бұрын
You guys should have been using 3M 8115 🙄
@maierracing558
3 жыл бұрын
We have it on the shelf and still use the old method that we have done for year. So, which ever works for you resources and talent in the building.. Cm
@mach5jeep
5 жыл бұрын
It would be even better if you sold mini tubs that fit the cutout. Or at least the outer wheel houses since most people will be doing rust repair with the flare installation
@charlesmaier2509
5 жыл бұрын
To be honest... we used to and we ultimately determined welding in the metal wells to the outer quarter was key and then just sealing up the gaps that is about 1-2" at the biggest point, was the smoothest route.
@Ricardo_Wade
2 жыл бұрын
This is defenatly the process but you cut way to much out the quarter panels there is no wa the axle has 10" of up travel easy way to figure out the amount of cutting is to measure from the top of rear axle to frame rail that will tell you how much travel you need to clear 😉
@maierracing558
2 жыл бұрын
Hello~ FYI... the logic behind where we cut the quarter, is that we create clearance from the flat spot of the top of the inner wheel well arch. It is not for the travel of the axel. This way if you lower the car & even cut the frame rail to gain clearance down the road (as we have done on other cars..) then you always have to the top of the wheel well for the tire. ;-)
@Ricardo_Wade
2 жыл бұрын
@@maierracing558 I understand your way, and your right if the frame rails get cut into the future, the extra clearance was the right move
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