With Nebula season slowly on its way, this video will come in really handy Tony. Did you get you Antlia Quad yet? Can't wait to see how that filter does on these nebulas.
@Hidden.Light.Photography
3 ай бұрын
And it’s extremely easy to fit into your normal processing workflow which is what I love about it. I’m going to order it this weekend and try it out :) The weather has been a bit gloomy lately
@yervantparnagian5999
3 ай бұрын
Hey Tony, For selecting the brightest value when setting the parameters, why is the R value the one we look at and is the R value the only channel we use all the time? Gorgeous image!
@Hidden.Light.Photography
3 ай бұрын
Here’s my reasoning for it and some may disagree, however this has given me consistent results. OSC cameras have 2 green to 1 red and 1 blue. With this said, green is generally stronger, but only because it has double the pixels. Blue is generally one of the weakest and noisiest, however because I’m using a filter that emphasizes the blue channel (Antlia triband) is actually showing as one of the strongest. This is an artificial strength though because the filter is helping it along. I choose red because it is a true value that doesn’t have a boost in any way and is generally the cleaner of the three channels. Hope that makes sense.
@yervantparnagian5999
3 ай бұрын
@@Hidden.Light.Photography It certainly does. Thank you my friend.
@Hidden.Light.Photography
3 ай бұрын
You are very welcome!
@bobfraile4252
3 ай бұрын
Great video! Thanks A couple of questions regarding image capture for HDR. I am trying to capture the Cat's Eye Nebula (NGC 6543) the past few short nights and I am getting great data on the "sunflower nebula" around it, but the Cat's Eye Nebula is way overexposed using the guidance from both NINA Exposure Plug-in and SharpCap smart histogram recommendations of essentially unity gain and 300 second exposures. How do you choose the appropriate gain and time for the core? Just go with 30 seconds and unity gain? Also, would it make sense to Bin at 2x2 or 4x4 to get a smaller FOV focused on the core?
@Hidden.Light.Photography
3 ай бұрын
Thank you! Amazing questions! Being that you’re imaging at 300s I’m assuming you’re doing narrowband? I wouldn’t change the binning, make sure to keep that and FOV the same otherwise you risk not combining the images correctly. Instead, I’d go for less time. Try a 30s sub frame and see how the core looks. I think you might come in nice and clean and 60s or even 120s if you’re doing narrowband, but it’ll be all about experimenting. The good thing about this process is you can do multiple. In other words, you can do 30s, 60s and your regular if you wanted. Hope this helps and please let me know how it turns out. If you need help along the way, you know where to find me :)
@bobfraile4252
3 ай бұрын
Thanks, that makes sense. I have a cooled camera and check each of the subs. But given your logic, I am going to increase to 20 as several other You Tubers recommend since Adam Block has a very large, precise system and can get away with 10.
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