I need your assistance with Maytag oven error codes.
I’m guessing that’s because the Maytag bored repairman commercials are a cruel joke and you don’t want to pay for service again if you don’t have to.
No, I just can’t find the manual to tell me what these error codes mean.
F0 is the Maytag oven error code for a stuck function key. If you haven’t been holding down the key too long, then the solution is replacing the touch pad.
I think my oven has the clock and touch pad as part of one assembly.
Then you have to replace that if not the control board.
That’s almost the most expensive single part of the oven.
The F1 error is for a defective touch pad, and the solution is the same as F zero.
What is F1 when it comes up with other lights?
That’s the error for a watchdog on board.
It has a clock, not a watchdog.
It is a monitor of sorts that errors when things take too long. If you get that error, reboot, and if that doesn’t work, replace the touch pad or control board.
How do you reboot an oven?
Turn off the controls and back on, and if that doesn’t work, turn it off and on at the breaker.
And don’t hold down the power button too long or I’ll get the F0 error.
The F2 error comes up if the oven is too hot.
It is an oven. It is supposed to get hot.
If the oven heating elements are stuck on and it gets over 600 degrees while baking or the broken temperature sensor thinks it is 800 degrees but isn’t, the oven will give the F2 error code.
For sensor glitches, I’ve heard you can fix it by rebooting the oven.
Or replace the sensor and hope that’s good enough. Otherwise, you’re back to replacing the relay board or wiring to the oven.
A wiring short can get it hot enough to trigger that warning.
F3 and F4 are errors for the temperature sensor wiring. Check to see if the circuit has zero or infinity resistance, and if so, replace the sensor if not the wiring.
What does error F5 mean?
That happens when the hardware and watchdog circuits have a mismatch in their readings. Maytag says replace the clock assembly or control board in that case, but I’d reboot in any case.
Yes, because no one wants to pay two hundred dollars for the repair guy to fix it the same way so many gaming console glitches are - hitting the power button a couple times.
F6 is the error for a missing AC signal, but any voltage problem needs an electrician. F7 occurs when the function key shorted or a button is stuck.
If the button isn’t actually stuck, reboot or replace the button.
F8 is an analog circuit and logic error. Reboot to try it or replace the clock assembly or ERC.
I’ve seen the F9 error.
If the door latch isn’t obviously broken like the lock jammed or stuck shut after a self cleaning cycle, check the lock motor to see if its burned out.
And if that doesn’t work, start the self cleaning cycle again to see if the latch disengages, open it, power cycle it and see if it lets you close the door properly again.
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