It's nice to see that Thom Yorke has hobbies outside of Radiohead
@theaffliction21
3 жыл бұрын
No droopy depression eye though...
@AbitLippy
Жыл бұрын
He should 3d print a green plastic water can
@j_shelby_damnwird
8 ай бұрын
Nah, he looks nothing like Yorke.
@garethlewis1984
8 ай бұрын
Pretending to be Australian?
@electronicsandewastescrapp7384
3 жыл бұрын
PERFECT. Pleasant, chill voice, no music or flashy graphics, everything needed to know in less than 10 minutes. Thanks!
@qtheband751
3 жыл бұрын
Indeed. The performances can get tiring.
@jrobmccoy
5 жыл бұрын
An excellent "how to". I'm definitely going to try this on a print.
@ColinWatters
4 жыл бұрын
Made my first attempt to plate a 3D print today. Got all set but when I lowered the part into the bath I discovered 3D prints FLOAT !
@nczioox1116
3 жыл бұрын
How did the parts turn out when you figured that part out?
@ColinWatters
3 жыл бұрын
@@nczioox1116 I was aiming to get a textured surface like pitted bronze and that's more or less how the test parts turned out. Main problem i had was uneven plating with thick copper forming in some areas and none or thin in others. Unfortunately I've not had time to have another go due to illness in the family.
@nczioox1116
3 жыл бұрын
@@ColinWatters Oh I see. Thank you. good luck
@davidolsen1222
3 жыл бұрын
Floating is likely a property of density. Pure plastic won't float but a lot of 3d printing is *not* pure plastic they have a lot of air in them and simply build the center with some scaffolding to save plastic and weight. In theory you could end up making copper coated floating parts that might end up being really kinda strong, since the copper shell would be pretty strong.
@ColinWatters
3 жыл бұрын
@@davidolsen1222 Yes definitely a density issue I was only using something like 25% infill so lots of air inside. Just caught me by surprise. I'd been watching people plate metal objects suspended from hooks and had my own hook all ready to go when I really needed a boat anchor :-)
I would like all the people who make videos on DIY conductive paint to test the materials by exposing them to temperature changes such as 5ºC to 40ºC, scratches, resistance measurements, shocks, etc. just to see the resistance of that or this particular method. Excellent video, I'm saving it and my like!
@timandrew4515
3 жыл бұрын
Nice tute. Quick, direct, no timelaps musak. 👍
@cuforming
2 жыл бұрын
I never thought about copper acetate. The result is pretty cool.
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
Not as good as copper sulphate, but far easier for the average person to get and safer for kids/schools etc
@JesusNowEschatology
4 жыл бұрын
Wow! Amazing work Brodie! Thank for teaching us this.... You've basically unlocked the secret of alchemy for us. I wish I could buy you dinner for that! :D
@DankWilly
2 жыл бұрын
Glad I'm not the only one who saved the Go Pro plastic packaging for re-use, hah. Waste not, want not!
@lens3973
3 жыл бұрын
Very cool! Thinking about doing this for PCBs
@radiestesista
10 ай бұрын
AWESOME! Please, do more videos like that!
@SkyGuardian2007
2 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! You just blew my mind away with this! Definitely going to try this with my prints at some point.
@Quokkat7
4 жыл бұрын
Pretty cool for an aged copper look. Because if you're gonna varnish it to protect it, why bother and use paint and varnish instead. Great video!
@GaryMcKinnonUFO
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Brodie, been looking at a few methods fo doing this, including electroless but this looks like the best all-round. Liked and subbed :)
@ozgur280
5 ай бұрын
so good ...may you share ratio of material. first liquids especially. vinegar and what mixed for electrolyte :)
@Helz777
3 жыл бұрын
Ah ha! One side of the chess set can be finished. Great video!
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
If you have a look at my other plating video, I plate with copper and nickel. So you could do both sides of the chess set 😊
@___echo___
4 жыл бұрын
Looks great! Hiw durable is the metal layer though? Is it easy to scratch off even with thicker coats?
@perspectivex
2 жыл бұрын
I wonder the exact same thing. If it's sitting on that layer of graphite which doesn't seem to be bound by any adhesive at all...how scratch-resistant could the graphite/copper two layer coating be?
@ameliabuns4058
3 жыл бұрын
Came back here because this became very useful for my pebble wiper :D instead of applying annoying tape all over it i'm gonna try this :O Thanks! so hyped also I wondre if the graphite powder solution can be used to make low-wear self-lubricating prints!
@JAYTEEAU
4 жыл бұрын
Excellent work Brodie, watching update vid next. Cheers, JAYTEE
@openskies11
3 жыл бұрын
Great video, just what I was looking for. Thanks!
@bzqp2
2 жыл бұрын
Not really what Im looking for (im searching for a vacuum metalizing alternative for vacuum formed visors), but still pretty cool.
@JC-XL
3 жыл бұрын
Great video, but why cover the expensive and beautiful silver paint with copper?
@uncommonmanamongstcommonme6931
18 күн бұрын
Absolutely wonderful
@jakubtrzebiatowski8160
Жыл бұрын
Hello! Thank you for recording this, this video is extremely informative. I'm trying to estimate how expensive electroplating is in practice. Let's take this silver conductive paint as an example: could you estimate how many models of the size of the on in video can you paint using such bottle?
@allochi
3 жыл бұрын
Man, your videos are really good, thanks for sharing these ideas!
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you 😊
@outcastzeroone
5 жыл бұрын
you gave me a an idea of what i can do with the used vinegar/peroxide etchant from when I do PCB's :P very nice
@BrodieFairhall
5 жыл бұрын
That's a fantastic idea! I bet it works better than Ammonium Persulfate too.
@GeorgeZaharia
Жыл бұрын
this is so smart bro.. :O and its a 4 year old video.. knowledge is pawa... i beed weak so far... but now... im even weaker :D
@PatriotCoinRings
2 жыл бұрын
To confirm, you used conductive silver paint "before" applying the graphite and then copper plated? Graphite isn't conductive is it? I'm confused how the copper plated onto the graphite. Also, wouldn't copper conductive paint be a better choice over silver conductive paint as far as cost or does the 7% increase (I think it is) increased conductivity worth it?
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
You use graphite OR the silver paint (I actually use a nickel conductive paint made by MG Chemicals for my plating now, it's cheaper than the silver paint and works very well). Graphite is conductive, otherwise it wouldn't work at all. It's not as good as the conductive paint, but it's cheap and generally more accessible, but I'd suggest going with the conductive nickel paint I mentioned before, you'll get a much better result.
@PatriotCoinRings
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try.
@domasannevanwijk6402
Жыл бұрын
I really enjoyed your video! I have a question as well: Your electrolyte solution method seems very easy and straightforward compared to other DIY electrolyte videos I've seen. Is there any downside to this method, such as reduced purity? Also, do you recommend adding a brightener to prevent rough surfaces and large crystals on 3D parts when using your method, or is that not needed?. Thanks in advance!
@BrodieFairhall
Жыл бұрын
The electrolytes used in both of my plating videos are made using cheap and easy to acquire chemicals and are a little safer than some other options. The main differences in the use / results will be; - using Sulphuric acid instead of vinegar makes the electrolyte more conductive, which means more metal will deposit in hard all the little hard to reach places. You can counteract this by moving the part around. - brighteners do exactly what they say, make the metal deposit in a smoother and more even coat. You can try adding a very small amount of sugar as a brightener. Something that will have more of an impact on the plating quality is the conductive coating. I now use a conductive nickel spray paint made by MG chemicals. It's far cheaper than the silver paint, sticks to a print better and gives an amazing result. Both of the paint options deliver far better results than the graphite mixture.
@domasannevanwijk6402
Жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Thank you much for your detailed answer!
@surnamerender
Жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall I’m thankful for finding this material, even this updated comment. Brodie, you’re master. Your way to copper plate without sanding is the thing I was searching for. Without this method I would berely into it, but now I’m motivated and starting to prepare materials. Thanks for sharing your experience.
@rileyjames5693
3 жыл бұрын
I had a great deal of luck with the copper plating on the nickel spray paint mentioned (i believe from MG chemicals?) I used copper sulfate crystals in bath of distilled water and muratic acid from a pool supply store. However! I have had 0 luck getting nickel to plate to it- even though it readily plates on to other metals (even my copper anodes!) - it refuses to stick to the surface of the print, even after it's been plated and sanded. The resistance on the surface of the print is
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
The MG Chemicals nickel spray paint is fantastic! If you're trying to plate with Nickel, you'll need to make an electrolyte suitable for Nickel. I make one in my other electroplating video, but if you're already using Muriatic/Hydrochloric acid (Sulphuric Acid works best overall as it conducts electricity better than most electrolytes). You wont want to use the copper sulfate crystals, Instead you can put a small amount of Nickel in dilute acid and leave it until it goes a nice green colour. If you're impatient, you can put a nickel anode AND cathode into the acid and run some current through it until it goes green. If I plate with metals other than copper, I still plate copper on first, kind of like having a good undercoat.
@rileyjames5693
3 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall yeah- I've got two different electrolyte baths. for the nickel, I'm using nickel chloride solution (made with current passed through nickel tabbing in HCL/distilled water) I also added some Epsom salt to increase the conductivity. It plates onto most metals very cleanly - but it won't touch my plated copper part -and I can't figure out why. EDIT: I should add that I've also sanded the copper down so the surface is not oxidized - the resistance is phenomenally low, AND the nickel electrolyte happily plates onto brass, pennies, and even the copper wire I hang parts from. I can only assume it's something I have overlooked this far !
@cameronyoung2004
3 жыл бұрын
Awesome demonstration!
@qtheband751
3 жыл бұрын
Very cool. Thanks for the fun project.
@roadstar499
4 жыл бұрын
Very cool...but you never said what power source? How much voltage... can i use a car battery charger? set to 6 volts 2 amps or 12volt set to 2 amps or 6 amps... very cool where can you buy carbon powder to make paste? also once its plated can it break off since you said carbon cracks easy... thanks
@WariceHimSelf
Жыл бұрын
Hey, great video! I was wondering, can I do this on larger parts, and if so what container do you recommend? (I will a large enough amount of paint/graphite mixture but I'm not sure what container would be viable)
@BrodieFairhall
Жыл бұрын
You can absolutely plate larger parts! I'd practice on smaller ones first. Also I recommend using a conductive nickel spray paint made by MG chemicals now instead of graphite, it works so much better and is much cheaper than the silver paint
@MariuszChwalba
5 жыл бұрын
This is excellent. Can't wait to try it out.
@TheRoon4660
3 жыл бұрын
Very interesting. I shall have to try this.
@guusreijken2918
2 жыл бұрын
Love the video! Def gonna try this. What solution hydrogen peroxide did you use? There is several different solutions available.
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
I used a 3% solution
@Alcyeragraeth
5 жыл бұрын
Sweet work, thanks for the edification!
@Maisonier
2 жыл бұрын
That's amazing ... and how to make this in larger scale to build many pcbs ?
@bot-bot
4 жыл бұрын
Nice one! Hope to see more content like this from you in future :)
@idmuoi
2 жыл бұрын
Truly creative...
@enermaxstephens1051
2 жыл бұрын
Very cool. Will you show us the Chroming process so we can make them silver and reflective?
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
I don't do Chrome plating personally, the chemicals are very toxic. You can buy chrome plating kits online though.
@enermaxstephens1051
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Thank you for the reply! Would you say that the process outlined in the video, will work on most 3D prints? Are there any plastics it won't work on? I'm asking cause I want to do many of the trim pieces in an old truck interior.
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
@@enermaxstephens1051 it will work on most plastics, I would definitely use something better than graphite for that project, I use a conductive nickel spray paint from MG Chemicals which works really well and make sure all parts are cleaned and primed.
@violettracey
Жыл бұрын
Also what concentration is the hydrogen peroxide? 3%? 14%? Does it have to be good grade or is normal hydrogen peroxide from the store fine?
@dadk5470
4 жыл бұрын
this was great. You should have millions of subs. I have a question. I do not know anything about plating, can aluminum plating be done? what about steel? or other silver looking metals? what about brass plating? thank you and sorry for so many questions!
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
Nickel, Zinc and Tin will be your best option for silver colored metals, Brass plating also works in pretty much the same way, you will likely end up with a more red colored brass as the copper ions transfer more easily than most other metals. I have another electroplating video where I work with Nickel and use a different method to create an electrolyte.
@Mailmartinviljoen
4 жыл бұрын
I will have to try this again. My first attempt failed. There was no copper forming on my pla printed part coverd with graphite/acetone. The graphite also washed off and contamimated the coper solution. Maybe the graphite will stick better if I mix it with acrylic paint.
@andrecook4268
3 жыл бұрын
The acetone will degrade the PLA pretty quick - try a different solvent. Or goto ABS and the surface will dissolve and mix with the graphite a bit giving a stronger bond.
@bretdegayner8934
2 жыл бұрын
Couple questions (sorry if they've been asked before but too many comments to read them all). What do you recommend for cleaning the plastic parts before you paint them? I separated the copper oxide. I got blue liquid and sediment at the bottom. Am I mixing it to include the sediment for the plating process or discarding it? What is the sediment? Thank you!
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
I just use ethanol / isopropyl alcohol to clean the plastic. The sediment will just be contaminants in or on the copper you used to make the electrolyte, best to remove them, you can filter the electrolyte through some filter paper/paper towel/some cloth. My second electroplating video has a bit more detail that isn't covered in this video too. Also, many people have had issues with different types of graphite, I don't use graphite anymore, I use a conductive nickel spray paint from MG Chemicals. It's much cheaper than the silver paint and works really well. Good luck with your plating!
@bretdegayner8934
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Thank you, not only for replying, but for taking the time to share your knowledge. I just became a new subscriber. Your videos are everything I like in a video. They're clear and concise, without a lot of time wasting fluff. Great work! You are a valuable contributor!
@gracebyseven
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video. Does this process give the part a hard, metal like feel? I have some small knobs that I'd like to have them have that really hard feel to them, not plastic feel.
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
Yes, it's real metal after all. If the part you're plating is really light, the plated part will still be quite light which can ruin the illusion, but the surface will feel the same as a solid metal part.
@gracebyseven
3 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Thank you for the reply, Brodie! Do you have any tips to adding weight to 3D printed parts?
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
@@gracebyseven I've printed parts with cavities and have filled them with metal scrap and epoxy. You could print parts with a grid infill at a low percentage and pause it before the top layers print to fill it with sand or something else. Printing with metal filled filaments (eg colorfabb copper fill) also makes rather heavy parts.
@gracebyseven
3 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall brilliant, thanks again for the feedback and support!
@consultortatico
5 жыл бұрын
Excellent video! Congratulations!
@einsteinx2
4 жыл бұрын
Have you tried this with gold plating? Do you think it would work directly on the graphite or would it need to be done as a second coat on top of the copper? Gold seems like an interesting option as not only does it look great, but it also doesn’t oxidize. Seems like it could be great for 3D printed jewelry especially.
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
I've never done any gold plating, I did see that Cody's lab has done a few gold plating and reclaiming videos. I'd probably start with a copper base though.
@einsteinx2
4 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Thanks, I'll give it a shot! If I have any success, I'll post my results.
@audone5551
2 жыл бұрын
@@einsteinx2 did you try? I am thinking of 3d printed jewelry with a silver plate.
@einsteinx2
2 жыл бұрын
@@audone5551 unfortunately I never got around to trying this. Most of my 3d printing projects are on hold right now. If you try it and have any success (or failure!) please reply with your results!
@audone5551
2 жыл бұрын
@@einsteinx2 will do. I'd like to make some intricate earings.
@ljubomirculibrk4097
2 жыл бұрын
Chemical depostion of Cu is best way to go. Reativly simple reaction, chemicals are relativly simple, Cu suphate is main. Nylon plastic is superior, epoxy is ok. Just plastic has to be sentized by Sn ions. On nylon you get a shiny Cu surface
@sufflmd
4 жыл бұрын
Well Done !! And i was looking for something like this
@michelevitarelli
Жыл бұрын
Thank you. great video.
@patrikgaborcik1888
4 жыл бұрын
Won’t get the graphite coating dissolved by copper sulfate, if it’s exposed to water ? Even for a minute ?
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
Graphite isn't water soluble, you can make a "suspension" with graphite, which is exactly what I do to paint the graphite onto the print, but if you leave it sit for a little while the graphite and water will separate again. If you were to sit your graphite coated part in water for a long time it will eventually come off.
@mikedrever7760
4 жыл бұрын
I followed the steps as you outlined them. I painted a part with graphite, but it did not plate. I put a steel nail in the place of the plastic part and it plated right away, so I know that the solution and power supply are working. I also measured the conductivity of the graphite powder I am using and it is fine. So what am I doing wrong? Any suggestions? Thanks for the video BTW.
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
The graphite coating (or other conductive coating) must have a really low resistance. I've found anything over 1k ohm / sq cm just wont plate at all and ideally it should be below 100 ohms/sq cm.
@ameliabuns4058
3 жыл бұрын
i got reminded of this again today after printing an espresso tamper. could this make my parts food safe? I wonder how it'll affect temp resistance and all that. or even strengh (I think it'd weaken?)
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
If you can plate it in a metal that is ok to use with food and it has no holes in the metal layer, I guess it might be ok ( have no idea what is and isn't ok to use and you'd have to make sure whatever metal you used as the anode didn't have anything it shouldn't in it). If you put a thick metal coat on, it does increase the strength, it wont stop the insides from going gooey if it gets too hot though, so maybe printed in PET-G or ABS it might last long enough, or just put a metal layer a few mm thick over it.
@Nazrim90
5 жыл бұрын
Are there any special requirements for the environment like air conditioning? I don't know if there are some explosive/toxic gases as a by-product of electroplating with the chemicals you used. And how do you dispose your used electrolytes?
@BrodieFairhall
5 жыл бұрын
These are all great questions and something I should Environment wise, there aren't any special requirements within the plating environment itself. A very small amount of Hydrogen gas is given off during the creation of the electrolyte and the plating process. As for disposal of the electrolyte, copper acetate is aquatoxic so it's not good to go into waterways. There is a lot of literature online stating that a small amount of these chemicals is fine to wash down the sink. Personally I evaporate the liquid and dispose of the remaining crystals in the trash.
@Nazrim90
5 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Thanks for your reply. How long does the evaporation take? Since you have quite a lot of electrolyte I think it would take a while and since it contains a lot of vinegar I guess it doesn't smell very good. Maybe it is possible to fasten the evaporation by boiling it, but that would increase the vinegar smell :D. I am just thinking of the woman acceptance factor.
@BrodieFairhall
5 жыл бұрын
@@Nazrim90 I live in a warm and dry climate, so I generally leave the container outside for a few days and when I check on it again it's normally dry. You could boil it if you wanted, I imagine it would still take a number of hours to evaporate. If you put it in a flat pan rather than a tall bottle it will evaporate faster too.
@Fabricium
3 жыл бұрын
Very helpful! Thank you!
@ameliabuns4058
3 жыл бұрын
:O coooooooool! that's so awesome! and it looks like it hided the layers a little too to me! Which is something i hate a lot about 3d printing! the uneven layers you sometimes get.
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
It absolutely does fill layer lines, you just have to make sure you plate it for a reasonably long time. It's a double edged sword though, because it also fills in fine details. The Raven skull was printed in ABS and acetone smoothed first, it did still have some layer lines, but I put almost 1mm of copper on it which filled in all the remaining layer lines. The graphite paste also fills in a lot of the layer lines too.
@slap_my_hand
4 жыл бұрын
Coating a non-conductive part in metal is like the holy grail of manufacturing techniques to me. There's so many cool things you could do with this. Sadly, having to apply graphite powder makes it far less versatile. I guess i'll have to figure out how to do thermal evaporation after all.
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
Nowadays I use a Nickel conductive paint from MG Chemicals as my conductive coating before plating. You could also look into "electroless nickel plating" as another potential option, manufacturers are pretty tight lipped about what goes into their electroless plating kits though. Vapour deposition requires a bit more in the way of equipment, the main 2 being a vacuum chamber and a high current supply, but I can't see why it wouldn't be achievable in a home lab. If you do it, I'd love to hear about it.
@bretdegayner8934
2 жыл бұрын
I've finally done some copper electroplating. It comes out chalky and dull. Have you found a good method to polish it? Should I wet sand it lightly and then go straight to buffing compound on my bench grinder with a bonnet wheel? So far, I've tried using green bar compound but its taking forever and I'm wearing some of the copper off. Not great shine either. Thanks!
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
If it's coming out chalky I'd say there is something wrong with the plating itself. It should come out bright red/orange, so there might be impurities or you may need to lower the voltage / move the part further away from the anode. Copper polishes very easily, but depending on how thick you've applied the copper plate, it's very easy to buff off the layer of copper
@p42t2r
4 жыл бұрын
I tried this process with graphite powder on my PLA prints but could not get the graphite to bond to the model. The graphite would just dust off when it dries. Looking at another you-tube video I used Mod Podge glue mixed with graphite, this almost worked as I could see some copper dust form after some hours in the solution using 4.5V and two copper plates on each side of the model. Have you successfully used graphite powder before?
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
I used to use graphite powder all the time, some of the models in both of my plating videos are coated with graphite. With graphite I generally get copper visibly starting to deposit to the model in a couple of minutes, you could try thinning out the modpodge with some alcohol and using less of it if you're finding it helps keep the graphite on. I would measure the resistance of your coated part with a multimeter if you have one. I have found that if I put the probes 10mm apart and measure anything over 1k ohm, the part is almost possible to plate decently,
@brt288
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks, Brodie, nice how-to. What voltage and amperage did you use in this video?
@BrodieFairhall
5 жыл бұрын
I forgot to put all those important details in the video. I always start with 3 Volts, if it's plating really well, but slowly, I'll increase it up to around 6, but you get a higher risk of burning. If you use graphite, you will probably want to use around 6 volts because the surface resistance isn't as low as the paint. If you have a fixed power supply, moving the part closer or further from the anode has just as much of an effect as a voltage change.
@ToFeliz
Жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhalldo you know how many ohms of residence you get on the graphite paint? Thanks! Great tutorial 👍
@BrodieFairhall
Жыл бұрын
@@ToFeliz if it's over about 500ohms measured over a space of 25mm it's very hard to get anything to plate at all. Ultimately, I would try something different if you've got a resistance of 100 ohms. Some people have commented that the graphite they've purchased is barely conductive at all, so check it before you go to the effort of painting it on. Now I use a conductive nickel spray paint made by MG Chemicals, it is much, much better than the graphite and way cheaper than the silver paint.
@ToFeliz
Жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall great tips 👍 thanks 😊
@KaylaMarieTeaGaming
5 жыл бұрын
BRODIE YOU SWEET BOY
@violettracey
Жыл бұрын
Thanks! This is cool!
@Anythingandeverything1
Жыл бұрын
Brilliant. Thank you
@fabthedevil
2 жыл бұрын
Hi Brodie, sorry to keep bugging you, I tried the second method, I just have a question, are the bubbles suppose to be constant in the 12 hours? Reason why I am asking is that the first 2 hours was fine but then it slowed down quite a bit, does the amount of copper have to do with anything?
@syndicated8158
3 жыл бұрын
Does the copper layer add to the tensile strength and heat resistance of the part by a significant percentage? Thank you for this video.
@PhillipKeane
Жыл бұрын
No. The thickness of the deposited layer is in the order of a few microns, so this does not add to the tensile strength in any meaningful way.
@evelynjunco4574
4 жыл бұрын
Great video! I have followed all the steps and the only thing different is that I am using Bare Conductive electric paint, when i submerge it into the mix, the paint is coming out. Any suggestions?
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
It sounds like your paint is water soluble. If only a little is bleeding into the water initially but enough is staying on the surface of whatever you're trying to plate, it might be fine. Otherwise you might have to try a different conductive paint. I've been using a nickel conductive paint from MG chemicals lately which works fantastically (and it's much cheaper than the little vial of silver paint I use in the video)
@stargazer7644
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Are you using the 841AR acrylic, 841ER epoxy or the 841WB water based nickel paint from MG?
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
@@stargazer7644 I use MG841AR as it's the easiest to find where I live.
@OFCIFR
5 ай бұрын
Would it work with water and salt instead of the electrolyte solution you prepared?
@BrodieFairhall
4 ай бұрын
No, but then yes. If you look at how I make the electrolyte in my other plating video (kzitem.info/news/bejne/qY143ZmYkHOFbJg), you'll see what I mean.
@gudguhgii1886
2 жыл бұрын
Hi I was wondering what would happen if I didn’t add any graphite powder to the 3D print, if I have silver conductive paint would it still plate? I read your comments about you use the conductive nickel spray paint by MG chemicals, there’s one on Amazon but it’s silver conductive paint by MG Chemicals, what do you recommend? I’m very interested in metal plating my prints I would appreciate a quick reply! Thanks I brought graphite powder but I noticed the one you got says lubricant on it, I’m assuming that’s the difference and maybe why I’m failing with the copper plating
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
If you can use good conductive paint instead of graphite, I highly recommend that you do. The paint will generally work much better than graphite powder. I've never used the silver paint from MG, only Nickel and Copper and they both work really well, I imagine the silver also works well too.
@gudguhgii1886
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall i will try the silver conductive paint from MG chemicals, thanks for the help
@gudguhgii1886
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Hi again, unfortunately the silver conductive paint from MG chemicals didn’t work, I did use a coin as a example and it worked, What do you recommend I should do?
@tomvh
3 жыл бұрын
Trying this out now. The copper wire is plated with nickel, but the part is not. When measuring with a multimeter the resistance of the part is around a 100 kOhms while on the copper wire it is 0.1 ohm so I think the graphite is not conductive enough. How do I make the graphite ethanol mixture more conductive?
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
You're likely going to have to try a different source of graphite powder or a conductive paint. I now use a conductive nickel spray paint from MG Chemicals which works fantastically.
@gracebyseven
3 жыл бұрын
Hi again,I’m wondering if I could use a 9v battery instead of a power supply?
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
You absolutely can! You only require a very low voltage, depending on your part size and your electrolyte it could be between 2V and 5V, if you have a fixed voltage you can move your part closer or further away from the anode to get a nice even metal deposit. My original plating setup was using three D cell batteries in series and it worked fantastically.
@gracebyseven
3 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall thank you so much! Really enjoy your content and presentations!
@icookiebit8601
2 жыл бұрын
How did you manage to get copper in the eye socket of the raven skull? Would tucking some wire inside work?
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
A mixture of plating for a long time and moving the anode around the skull. If you're careful not to touch the anode wire to the part you're plating you can move it into pockets like the eye sockets if you're having trouble.
@KDing-te4mc
3 жыл бұрын
love it!!!! Thank you so much!
@fabthedevil
2 жыл бұрын
Hi Brodie, quick question, the part where you mix the vinegar and the peroxide, you add a 3rd liquid, what is it? Thanks
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
I added 2 small bottles of hydrogen peroxide and then vinegar. Only 2 liquids overall. I've got a totally different way to make an electrolyte in my other plating video too
@fabthedevil
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall thanks for the quick reply.
@BLagather
5 жыл бұрын
Brodie, great video. What is the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide?
@BrodieFairhall
5 жыл бұрын
I generally use Hydrogen peroxide with a concentration of around 5%, I've had no problems using a concentration as low as 3% though.
@kaisersose5549
4 жыл бұрын
And the vinegar? As for what can be found for normal consumers in my area; 3-5% for food, up to 20% for cleaning, and anhydrous for creating a petina on steel.
@s.sradon9782
4 жыл бұрын
if you want a metal 3d print build a foundry for ~50 bucks and make a mould with the print, then proceed to cast the metal of your choosing.
@SianaGearz
3 жыл бұрын
Whoa someone is ripping you off a bit. The MSRP on Kemo L100 is 10€ and mail-order prices are usually slightly below that. When i bought some a while back, it was labelled "rear window defogger repair liquid", so maybe you'll find something suitable. It seems like there are some on Aliexpress for $10 shipped worldwide, not sure if they're as good.
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
Everything in Australia costs more (and I was dumb enough to mention the price in AUD rather than a more common currency). I've been using MG Chemicals conductive Nickel spray paint for everything since about 2-3 months after I made this video. It's better all around and you get much more for your money.
@antjones2281
Жыл бұрын
It looks like metal, but how does it feel? Does it have that cold to the touch feeling that real metal has?
@BrodieFairhall
Жыл бұрын
It feels like metal to touch, but it's missing the weight of a solid metal object.
@antjones2281
Жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Sweet perfect for making a shifter knob for my Logitech H shifter. Does it wear off if you touch it too much?
@BrodieFairhall
Жыл бұрын
@@antjones2281 it will eventually wear, both because copper is very soft and through the acids in your skin. You can just plate it for a longer period of time to build up a thicker coating. If you look at my other playing video, it also shows nickel, which will last longer with that kind of use than copper. If you do decide to do it, instead of using graphite, I now use a nickel conductive spray paint (most commonly the one made by MG Chemicals), it gives a much, much better result and it's far cheaper than the silver paint.
@manofsan
4 жыл бұрын
What if instead of using a graphite powder & alcohol to make a paint, suppose you were to have instead taken a graphite pencil and used it to color the entire surface of your part that way? Could this method have worked just as well?
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
I have tried this and didn't have any success, the resistance was way too high. I have since found out that a lot of pencil graphite doesn't actually contain much graphite.
@manofsan
4 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall I'd read that pencils range in hardness from 9H (41% graphite content) to 9B (93% graphite content). Perhaps you didn't use a soft pencil having high enough graphite in it?
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
@@manofsan I tried it with 5B pencils, that is the softest I could find locally ( I didn't even know they went all the way to 9B! ), I also only tried one brand. If you do try it, I would be interested to hear about your results, I was really hoping it would work when I tried it as it would be a fantastic, safe & low mess method for teaching children etc. The resistance I measured across a 20mm x 20mm 3D printed surface heavily filled with the 5B pencil graphite was about 20k Ohms, the powdered graphite over the same area was ~300 Ohms, the Leitsilber paint was ~10 Ohms and the paint I prefer to use now (MG Chemicals conductive Nickel spray paint) is also ~10 Ohms. I haven't been able to plate anything with a resistance above 1k Ohm resistance over a gap of 20mm using the Vinegar based electrolyte, but, a sulfuric acid / copper sulfate based electrolyte is far more effective and will give better results.
@manofsan
4 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall A search on eBay shows 9B pencils for ~ $2.50 and 9B crayons for ~ $6. Vinegar has a pH ~ 2.5, while lemon juice is ~ 2, and muriatic acid for cleaning patios is ~ 1, as common household products. But have you considered electroless plating, without using any current at all? Then you don't need to worry about using a current. www.sharrettsplating.com/blog/electroplating-non-conductive-materials/#electroless-plating
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
@@manofsan Ultimately Sulfuric acid works better than most, not because of its low ph, but because it is also far more conductive than most other aqueous solutions, otherwise I haven't found much difference between the performance average "household" acids like lemon juice and hyrdochloric / muriatic acid. As for electroless plating, if you buy a kit, it's easy, but unfortunately manufacturers are not forthcoming with their formulas etc and I haven't managed to get anything I'd call a success with a diy electroless plate either copper or nickel.
@MLFranklin
Жыл бұрын
Very cool.
@Inferior_Machines
2 жыл бұрын
What was the voltage measurement amounts on that example & was it AC or DC?
@BengalGecko
2 жыл бұрын
What type of filament are your parts printed in? I assume pla wouldn’t work because the ethanol would melt the pla?
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
They're printed in PLA and the raven skull is printed in ABS and vapour smoothed. Ethanol won't greatly affect most plastics, I'd even go as far as to say, with the exception of PVA and PVB, basically any other plastic you can FDM print will be fine with ethanol.
@PhaTs00p
2 жыл бұрын
Can you make graphite powder by drawing on a piece of paper with a pencil?
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
I tried doing this with a pencil and found the result was barely conductive at all. I've since found out there are a lot of polymers in pencils, not just graphite.
@PhaTs00p
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Ah it seems graphite content varies with hardness of the pencil. The softer the higher the graphite content. But getting specific pencils probably isn't any less effort than getting graphite powder in the first place.
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
@@PhaTs00p I got the softest pencils I could locally (not that soft, they were 2B) and couldn't get a resistance below about 50k ohms. I tend not to use graphite at all now, I use a conductive nickel paint made by MG Chemicals, it's so much better and much cheaper than the silver paint.
@coulterjb22
5 жыл бұрын
Nice video. how much current did you use?
@BrodieFairhall
5 жыл бұрын
I didn't regulate current specifically, I had the part and the anode at a set distance apart and adjusted the voltage (a range of 3V to 6V seems to work best for me). The current is in the low mA and gradually increases over time as the electrolyte becomes more saturated and the part becomes more conductive with its new layer of copper.
@yellallalla
2 жыл бұрын
can you use charcoal powder in place of graphite?
@caecita5910
2 жыл бұрын
I don't have access to conductive paints where I live, I tried to make a layer of graphite to make it conductive, but it didn't work, what am I doing wrong?
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
I've been finding that some graphite powder isn't just graphite and it isn't very conductive. So you may have to try a different brand of graphite powder. You can also apply multiple coats of the graphite to see if that helps. If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the painted surface and it should be at most a few hundred ohms between any two points or it won't plate well.
@violettracey
Жыл бұрын
How much voltage do you recommend setting it to to start with?
@BrodieFairhall
Жыл бұрын
With this electrolyte, I'd start with around 2.5V to 3V and increase it if you need to. I also recommend using a nickel conductive paint now, instead of the graphite or silver paint. MG Chemicals makes a nice conductive Nickel spray paint, which ends up being much cheaper by volume than the silver paint and it works so much better than the graphite.
@violettracey
Жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Thank you so much!
@Chitzui
3 жыл бұрын
I did not get the power supply part. What did you use to be able to provide electricity to the copper and the 3d print? Thank you!
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
I just used a basic benchtop / lab power supply in this video. My original plating setup was 2 D cell batteries, you will only need 2-6 volts for plating, depending on your electrolyte, the resistance of the conductive coating and a few other variables. Whatever you use won't need to provide much current.
@Chitzui
3 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall thank you!
@roadstar499
4 жыл бұрын
Also lets say i want to coat larger prints and mix up a gallon on this blue mixture for plating? how many times can you use this mixture? if i put it in a bottle will it keep for weeks, months etc??? thanks
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
Essentially, you can keep it forever. You will find that it gets more blue the more you use it, so you will want to add more vinegar when it gets really dark and there will end up being a build up of gunk on the bottom of the container from impurities in the copper which can just be filtered out (I run it through a coffee filter every few times I use it). If you want to plate larger parts, definitely consider using multiple anodes, a conductive paint instead of graphite (I've been using a nickel conductive paint by MG Chemicals) and some way of agitating the solution.
@roadstar499
4 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall Is that the paint that cost $20 for a tiny bit?not even sure that would be enogh for one 10 inch print... i am making these to sell so i need to keep cost low or there will be zero profit...thanks for your help..
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
@@roadstar499 This is a different paint I discovered after making these 2 videos, much cheaper! If you look online for conductive spray paint, there are a huge variety of nickel and copper conductive paints.
@roadstar499
4 жыл бұрын
@@BrodieFairhall thanks ill look..
@morecontentforearth2045
5 жыл бұрын
Great Job..
@BrodieFairhall
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@Spaventacorvi
5 жыл бұрын
Good video. Subscriber #2 :D
@peetman23
2 жыл бұрын
Can the blue liquid be used again after eletroplating?
@BrodieFairhall
2 жыл бұрын
It absolutely can. I use the same batch for years, just filter it and don't contaminate it with other chemicals etc and it will essentially last forever
@garethlewis1984
8 ай бұрын
Price of that paint though.. Bad news for my life size terminator print..
@BrodieFairhall
8 ай бұрын
I now use a conductive nickel paint made by MG chemicals. It bonds much better and you get way more for your money
@danleon4852
3 жыл бұрын
Is the microwave safe for normal use after all this or best keep the practice separate ?? Thanks
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
I believe so, but, I'm not an expert on that so I probably shouldn't comment on it. You could always just microwave the vinegar then add the hydrogen peroxide afterward. Or just leave it cold and it will take a bit longer. In my other plating video I have a different method for creating an electrolyte too.
@ferdblu1946
4 жыл бұрын
Can you keep the copper vinegar solution in a bottle for a few weeks?
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
I still have both my copper and nickel electrolytes from both of my electroplating videos from over a year ago. I just filter them through some cloth to clear the debris out of them
@caecita5910
3 жыл бұрын
can we use silver on our 3d printings???
@BrodieFairhall
3 жыл бұрын
Absolutely, the electrolyte will be different to what I made here, but the information on how to electroplate with silver is not too hard to find. If you do it, I'd love to hear how it went!
@CreatorCade
4 жыл бұрын
Can graphite from pencils be ground into powder to made the plating paint?
@BrodieFairhall
4 жыл бұрын
I tried this and the resistance was too high, but I only tried one brand of pencil, it could be totally different with others.
@krisknowlton5935
4 жыл бұрын
Most pencil lead is actually a polymer.
@travismiller5548
3 жыл бұрын
Just don't. Running graphite gouging electrodes from the welding store thru a pencil sharpener is ok.
@Gosga365
5 жыл бұрын
What have you used to polish the copper after it is plated? My copper layers seem to be very delicate and darken easily once they come out of the solution.
@BrodieFairhall
5 жыл бұрын
Hi John, I use a brass polish called "Brasso" to polish my plated parts. If I want them to stay shiny and cope with being handled, I will clear coat them. It sounds like your copper plate might possibly be a little thin, you can plate for a longer period of time to build up more copper. I have on occasion left my parts to plate overnight and they end up with a very thick coating that can be sanded back and polished. If you would like to leave your parts to plate unattended, it is a good idea to agitate the solution, I use an aquarium air pump to do so. If your parts are darkening quickly, I would make sure that when you remove them from the electrolyte you rinse and dry them immediately.
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