I have added this note to the top of the description to save you from wasting your time like I did. By all means go ahead and read what I did to try to get my board working but be aware that in the end, one of the I/O pins on the microcontroller was damaged and I had to buy a replacement board from ebay and change the configuration to match my machine.
This is how to enter the service mode to set the configuration for your machine:
Service Mode
1. Set to Cottons with door closed.
2. Hold Start whilst powering up.
3. After the rapid flashes there should be a solid light.
4. Press the Start button 3 times (for service) or 5 times (for factory) holding it down on the last push.
The table has the settings for a W1514 and a W1714
Setting W1514 W1714
Water intake Cold Cold
Max water level No No
Flow meter No Yes
Low water pressure Yes Yes
Sensor rinse Yes Yes
Allergy No No
Country version EU EU
Auto load control Yes Yes
Heater rating 2100W 2100W
Suds container 5kg 6kg
Imbalance charts 5kg 6kg
Max spin speed 1400 1400
Imbalance sensor Tacho Tacho
Time left disp Yes Yes
Motor type
This is what I found originally...
My Miele washing machine failed whilst I was stood next to it. It was running with the drum rotating when suddenly I heard a fizzing sound followed by a pop and a bang. The display went out and it tripped the MCB in my fuse box.
There is an excellent guide on how disassemble the Novotronic washers here: www.instructab...
There is a schematic folded and tucked in to the side of the chassis at the top which you will see when the top is removed.
On first inspection it appeared that the fault was due to the insulation on a wire from the control board shorting to the chassis probably from the vibration during the spin cycle.
The wire was almost broken so I spliced it back together and covered the joint with some heat shrink sleeving. I put some insulation tape over the edge of the chassis after filing down the sharp edges of the place where the arcing had occurred. I also wrapped tape around all of the wires going to the control board to prevent problems in the future.
I removed the control board from the front panel and saw a burn mark in the back of the plastic, you can see it in the video. Looking at the corresponding component on the control board I saw a damaged IC. Luckily others had posted details of this IC online and so it was identified as a TEA1522. Unfortunately replacing it did not fix the fault. There were additional failed components including:
1. A 22R 0603 SMT resistor in the PSU.
2. The SMPS transformer had a short in the primary.
3. The back light LEDs were short circuit.
4. Two of the back light control transistors were short circuit.
5. Two 47R 0603 SMT resistors in the backlight circuit were open.
6. The two ULN2003 ICs had short circuits.
7. The processor had a damaged I/O pin that drives the water inlet valve.
If you are going to fault find the board you can apply 50V DC across the main input supply cap and the supplies should run up on the bench. It needs the float valve connector on the board to be shorted and for it to run up properly it appears to need the mains AC supply, so be careful!
The two rectified and smoothed DC supplies are:
V1 = 15V
V2 = 8.4V
If you do manage to get the board working then it would be worth fitting a 20V transient surpressor across each of the DC supplies to protect them from future power supply failures.
The damaged micro I/O pin meant that it wasn't possible to repair the board :-(
When I disassembled the transformer the primary winding was very thin and not great quality insulation. I suspect some insulation damage or a hot spot cause the failure, destroying the drive IC and the downstream components that couldn't tolerate the surge. A couple of protective diodes would have helped.
Details of the transformer are:
Primary = 124T
Sec 1 (middle pair of pins) = 10T
Sec 2 = 8T
Note that the primary is the opposite phase to both secondaries.
The core is gapped and so the primary inductance is only about 2mH
The core AL=100 (nH/sqrT).
The primary wire was 0.13mm diameter but it will take 0.15mm, the secondaries are both 0.4mm. Make sure that there is sufficient insulation between the primary and secondaries.
You need 5m of wire for the primary and 0.4m for each secondary (0.8m total).
You could probably reuse the secondary wire.
The core is glued and I couldn't separate it either with heat or solvent so I had to wind the wires by feeding them through the gap. It is just about doable but takes some patients and care. The biggest problem is the that the wire kinks if you are not careful.
I have put some photos and data here:
drive.google.c...
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