Dang I wish the manufactures will just recognize your work on these and build them correctly. Thank you for your information. ill do this asap.
@dd_ranchtexas4501
Жыл бұрын
maroman556: You can bet that they KNOW the correct Technical way to build these. And they KNOW the most profitable way to build them. Never the two shall meet.........
@petereye9138
3 жыл бұрын
For r4 I just soldered a 1K in parallel , I used 10 ohm and a 1N4007 to replace the M7 did 10 welds on .15 mm and it worked great. I have a bunch of old boards with smd diodes but I had no idea what they were. Thanks again for your info!
@cyruskhalid1693
3 жыл бұрын
i know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@aidenavi5976
3 жыл бұрын
@Cyrus Khalid Instablaster :)
@cyruskhalid1693
3 жыл бұрын
@Aiden Avi i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@cyruskhalid1693
3 жыл бұрын
@Aiden Avi it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thanks so much, you saved my account!
@aidenavi5976
3 жыл бұрын
@Cyrus Khalid No problem =)
@teltras68
3 жыл бұрын
I received my spot welder today. It's a CA04, I opened it right away without turn it on to test it to check if it's was working or not. I did your mods, and no problems. Everything is perfect after 50 welds. The battery used was a Turnigy 3S 5000mah lipo 45-90C. Thank you very much for the tutorial, it's very well explained, keep up the good work. Regards from Portugal.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Cheers!
@GeertDroid
3 жыл бұрын
It was clear enough in your previous video. You clearly say put the resistor in series with the diode. It was also logical to me that you have to swap the diode 180° degrees. From main Plus to the resistor, from resistor to the diode anode, from diode cathode to the rest of the circuit. Anyways thank you so much for sharing this solution.
@MB-zt8en
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for all your video's about this spot welder. Bought one too and received version 'CA20-2K'. After powering it up 2 times the diode already shorted out, so I soldered in a new one with 10 ohm resistor in series. Before welding for the first time I beefed up the main PCB tracks and changed R4 to 470 ohm. The issue I had was that the gates of the mosfets were always pulled high, so always conducting. After some time I found out that one of the solder pads of R4 came loose from the PCB. Just a little bit so you couldn't tell just by looking at it. After fixing that it now works really well!
@shardyphotographic
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much Luca for a very clear explanation
@johncronk1338
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for such a great video, much love from Canada
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
You're welcome!
@rcscalebuilders8268
3 жыл бұрын
Thank You very much for all this information!!
@rcscalebuilders8268
3 жыл бұрын
I ended up buying a Hot Air Station!! This fix has me inspired to dive deeper into electronics. The burned up mosfet came off so easy with it!!
@drakevelazquez8728
2 жыл бұрын
Is the diode considered reverse biased now? I have the bifrc board and the diode is reversed like your doing. The voltage regulator and 2 control circuits that run the led and fets I believe shorted out somehow. Replaced and everything works visually. Just trying to grasp the way these circuits work.
@Luca_Techy
2 жыл бұрын
No the diode isn't reverse biased it's just flipped around to allow space for the 1/4 watt resistor put in series with it - it's explained also on the circuit drawing.
@GeirAtleStorhaug
3 жыл бұрын
Very clear explanation, thank you!
@rolandboszormenyi5036
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video! The solution works well. When I recieved my CA04, one of the FETs blew up. I changed it, made your modification, and it is perfect. It can even burn holes into the nickel plate on setting more than 10 🤣, at the same time the FETs don't blow up. Thank you again! 💪
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Great to hear!
@robinbonin1502
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video, I got the CB23-4K version and made the suggestions you posted prior to trying the unit. The diode is fine, but the device doesn't seem to work. It powers on, I can adjust the power (time), change it to automatic, and when touching the strips I hear a beep, but it doesn't seem to discharge any power. I don't see any fluctuation with the battery voltage. I first used a 3s lipo, then moved on to a 4s. Right now I am using 6x 4S 100C 1500 Mah lipos plugged into a parallel board. Any ideas what I could test, or what could be the issue? Only other thing of note, the display shows about 2V less than the battery voltage, but I figured that was due to one of the resistors?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Robin, your MCU seems not to be triggering the FETS. In another video I show how to check this with a 12V 21Watt lamp (check the playlist, it's one of the last videos). This test avoids putting your welder to "Full Send" on a normal weld and risking to cause a catastrophic failure. If you don't get any flash even with 99 set on the lamp then your FETs are not turning on. Double check the R4 contacts and be sure there is continuity on both sides of the resistor - if in doubt reflow the solder joints. With a tester trace the R4 output to pin 4 and down to the pushpull pilot transistor base. Don't worry about the voltage difference consider that there it's always imprecise just be aware of the difference (it can range from .5 to 2V apparently). This is due to the tolerances of the resistor divider and comparator in the MCU itself - that's why individual calibration should be done but too time consuming. Anyhow stick with 3S 5000mAh which is fine while running the lamp and various tests.
@carinagavelin5955
3 жыл бұрын
God work thanks for all your mods
@fiveleafcloverfpv4445
3 жыл бұрын
You also could solder another 1k resistor on the other one (R4) . Maybe that's easier to do for some. Ordered one like this device yesterday. Thank you for showing the modifications. Hopefully this cheap device will work better and longer now.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Yes this is also of course possible (some have taken that option).
@fiveleafcloverfpv4445
3 жыл бұрын
Oh I already read indeed in the reactions now. 👍🏼
@guntergiersch1245
Жыл бұрын
Hi Luca, nice Job! If i wanted to avoid all the Problems with the blown FETs, wouldn't it make Sense to power the Circuit with an external Power Supply (12V/2A)? To do this, could I unsolder the Diode F7, rotate it a bit away from the Pad on the input Side and then connect it to the Plus of the external Power Supply on the input Side of the Diode? Where should I connect the negative Side of the Power Supply then and how can I disconnect the Negative Side of the Battery on the Circuit Board in this Case?
@Luca_Techy
Жыл бұрын
Hi, you would need to keep the negative common and just power the mcu and trigger circuit with the positive from the psu and remove the positive that goes to the regulator (which then feeds the mcu and trigger circuit). However if you correctly decouple the circuit you don't really need an external psu .
@andreygalagan5065
3 жыл бұрын
Hi! Looking now at Wise Maple - it has far less space on the board. How would you recommend to place the resistor? I think it is not possible to rotate the diode the way you show in the video - it will touch other components there :(
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
You can slightly move the diode and use the capacitor leg directly as other contact - check with a tester in continuity to be sure you get the right side of the pad and leg of the capacitor first. Another possibility is to use a current limiting XT-90 plug directly on the power cables - this will avoid any mod to the board itself as it has this feature embedded. Just search for "XT-90 Spark arrestor" - like this: www.aliexpress.com/item/32534055240.html?spm=a2g0o.search0303.0.0.4e1a3010zK1DsI&algo_pvid=a19eac54-74ab-4751-ae40-a3f766da745a&algo_exp_id=a19eac54-74ab-4751-ae40-a3f766da745a-1
@hamidkeshvaripour2380
3 жыл бұрын
Good job Luca,I finally understood you last night one more thing was if it’s any better using M1 diode instead of M7 here?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
There's really not much difference in this case, M7 has a higher breakdown voltage but a slightly lower peak current but it's fine with the 10Ohm resistor in series.
@Key-DIY
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Luca, I just received the welder with version CB23-4K, what resistor value do I need to change for R4? Do I still need to flip the M7 diode around then add 20Ohm resistor? Thank you in advance
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Key, it's all explained in my last 2 videos in the playlist. R4 should be 470-500 Ohms and the in rush current limit resistor 10-20 Ohms.
@ivanvagenes1749
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Luca. Which of all this versions do you recommend to by. Tanks for any answer :-)
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
That depends on your soldering skills: all of them need a fix. The best version is the "Rev 0" with the MCP driver which needs the additional CAP mod. All the others need a inrush current limiting resistor fix before or after the main CAP diode. The MAPLE version is probably the more "sane" but less versatile. Please check out my other video about "All Mini Spot Welder" versions and comparisons - it's all explained there (in the video description or playlist).
@patbaud9126
2 жыл бұрын
Do I have to put it back like new from the start without modification? Thank you Luca !!!
@rcscalebuilders8268
3 жыл бұрын
Hello Sir . I have another question for you. I pulled the M7 Diode and it has continuity in both directions. Does that mean its fried? Thank You very much for your time
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Yes it's shorted so you need to replace it.
@rcscalebuilders8268
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy Thank You very much for replying!! I ordered a set of diodes with a bunch of different values. I tried to find it on a bunch of old video cards but had no luck.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@rcscalebuilders8268 You can use any classic 1N4002 to 1N4007 diode or equivalents, it is not so critical just any diode with at least a 30V minimum reverse breakdown rated at 1Amp will do fine with a series resistor of 20-50 Ohms.
@rcscalebuilders8268
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy I appreciate you taking your time to explain it to me!!
@rcscalebuilders8268
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy My Welder works now!!! You have really impressive electronics knowledge. Your teachings have opened a new world of electronics to me that I didn't know I was capable of!! Thanks again for sharing all of this awesome knowledge with all of us.
@omercoruk3403
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Luca, great job. I have done everything that you have so carefully and informatively demonstrated. Everything working absolutely wonderfully. Thanks Just a quick question, I want to extend/increase the length of the battery cables with 8 gauge (AWG) since I am using a 60Ah car battery and the cables are a bit sort and the welder up in the air. Not very convenient... I was wondering if there would be a length restriction? Great stuff. Keep up the good work. Again thanks.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
You can increase the cable length using good copper stranded silicon AWG8 cable by double the current length without major voltage drop (consider the current AWG 10 cable is tinned aluminum not copper). Of course shorter is always better.
@omercoruk3403
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy Thanks for the advice, will consider & measure my changes
@HyperF1
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy As to my version, I soldered an EC5 connector to the cables and the strands absorbed the solder very well, which means they are quite coppery. Considering their reddish cross sections and weight... However, they do resemble the cables coming with the cheap car jump starters which use copper-clad alumimiun wires.
@francisguchie1973
3 жыл бұрын
Great great work . Can I use 470ohm 1/2watt resistor instead of 1/4watt. And a 22ohm 1/2watt in place for 1/4watt
@patbaud9126
2 жыл бұрын
Hello Lucas, can a 51R1 resistor go to replace the R4? thank you, have a nice day !!!
@Luca_Techy
2 жыл бұрын
51R1 is 51.1Ohms which is too low. You need 470-550 Ohms to be good. That would be from a 471 3digit code value to a 551 value.
@patbaud9126
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much Lucas, God bless you !!!
@xibidit
3 жыл бұрын
one question, i have this on order, on it's way. Dont know what version... but do i really need this cap? cant i change it for a 1200 or 3300uF cap instead? I bought a 16.6F cap bank and a lipo 3s 65c battery 6000mAh, is this large cap really needed then?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
You can of course replace that large cap with a 2200uF or even 1000uF 25V cap - however I still suggest you add the resistor in series with the diode (which you absolutely need for safe operation).
@xibidit
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy yes, i have disassembled an old computer psu and are removing piece by piece all components i need to do your mods! hopefully i can rebuild my ebike battery soon, they have too weak series connections so the voltage drop is extreme... it can shut itself of at full throttle while 50% charge.. thanks for all your vids on this welder!
@johnthompson8148
3 жыл бұрын
First of all thanks for the amazing content! I do have a question though! Idon't have a lipo battery pack to power this and understand a lead acid battery does work. Would I be better using a car battery (760A, 80Ah) or a motorcycle battery (14Ah)?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
The motorcycle battery may work but only if it's brand new - it's a bit small (I used a similar one brand new and it worked ok but not as good a the new 3S lipo pack). The 760Ah is an overkill, but you can try starting from very short weld times (5ms upwards). Just be careful and always start from a low value every time to fine tune the welds and be sure the connections are solid.
@spinnanz
3 жыл бұрын
Will this welder do 0.2mm nickel using a car battery? Your recommend modifications have so far given me MANY MANY great welds with 0.12mm nickel.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
I wouldn't suggest going that thick, it's not dimensioned for .2mm and you risk overdriving it. You can manage .15mm with decent copper power and electrode cables keeping the pulses short enough (under 40ms). Keep in mind that these aren't "quality controled" and matched FETs, you get what you pay for, some are lucky and some aren't. If you happen to get a good matched batch of FETs and decently soldered components with the mods you are ok, but I wouldn't go over that .15mm limit, the design is just not capable of assuring stability.
@fearlyenrage
3 жыл бұрын
Information: it is not advised to use a 6,6V 3300uF condensor to solder in. It will ruin the part on the board nearest to the capacitor. So you cannot use any capacitor you have to use a specific. Whitch one i have no clue ask Luca.
@shaneelliott215
3 жыл бұрын
hey luca do you know where i can purchase replacement screen while soldering the resistor on i didnt realize i put gator clip on screen and cracked it
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Check in the descriptions of my videos I had put a link to the complete screen ASSY from Aliexpress.
@faxavier65
3 жыл бұрын
I did add the resistor after m7 diode as your study on BI18-2k. Job well done and measured. Now the equipment starts well as before, bips, all good. But nothing more, it does not trigger the welding, it does not fires on the MOSFETs. As I did not change anything else my only explanation is it was already defective from start. I never tried welding. Just now, several times. I'm thinking of trying manual. But I'll wait , maybe you have a better idea. TY
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Did you replace the R4 1K resistor on the MCU board with a 470 Ohms one?
@faxavier65
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy well, I heard about that one, then I never did it. OK I'll try it. TY. I just read another comment, it's a variation, just solder another 1K resistor in parallel. I'll try it.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Yes you can also do that - the important thing is reduce the resistance to around 500 Ohms.
@patbaud9126
2 жыл бұрын
Hello Luca, I bought a mini welder ref: CB23-4K that I modified like you but it does not weld, very low discharge, what could it be? thank you for your help, Have a nice day !!!
@Luca_Techy
2 жыл бұрын
Firstly, what battery are you using? Be sure to have a fully charged 3S 5000mAh 50C+ LiPo or a 12V 40Ah AGM battery. Only use the provided cables, don't extend them (or shorten them at least initially). Be sure to connect the using screw terminals or in any case a strong connection to te battery terminals. If you're certain of all the above then you should check the driver circuit, be sure the R4 resistor you replaced is 500Ohms and be sure it's connected correctly to the board. You can try the 12V lamp test to see if it flashes like in my last video.
@monimi1
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your excellent video. I have the CB23-4K version. I have added a second 1 kΩ resistor to the R4. I also made the capacitor charge inrush current resistor modification Welding two sheets works well. I tried to weld a nickel strip to a 18650 battery, unfortunately it does not hold up well even if I have set it to 50 ms. How is it better to weld with light contact pressure or with more pressure. At the moment the electrodes are flat at the bottom. Is it better if they are rounded?
@monimi1
3 жыл бұрын
I have now found out why the welding points on the 18650 battery did not hold up well. On my first attempts I used a 2 AWG cable with 1.8m length from the battery to the spot welder which apparently reduced the performance. Now I have connected directly to the battery In addition, the electrodes have rounded at the tip now the welding points hold well on the 18650 battery
@sarathkumar341
2 жыл бұрын
Initially mine was working then failed due to the diode shorted. But later on doing these mods, even at 1E it's putting hole on nickel strips and even melted the welding tips. What might be the problem?
@Luca_Techy
2 жыл бұрын
You have a shorted FET(s) so you'll have to locate and remove it - tricky if you're not handy with a soldering iron or desoldering hot air gun.
@sarathkumar341
2 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy But in diode testing mode it doesn't conducting. Does the 470 Ohm Resistor R4 increase to 1K Ohm solve? I guess there is a issue there. In some other videos you explained
@Luca_Techy
2 жыл бұрын
@@sarathkumar341 try the lamp test. You'll see the lamp always shines as soon as you connect the electrodes without trigger. If you replaced the diode which was shorted and added the current limiting resistor that's fine but too late as the FET has already blown (shorted).
@countryside8122
2 жыл бұрын
Is it a different model if those components are on opposite side of the board than the cap?
@Luca_Techy
2 жыл бұрын
Which components on which board? The main FET board or the MCU? There are basically 2 main FET board versions, one with the push pull drivers on top and one with nothing on top and diodes on the bottom.
@stephen8385
2 жыл бұрын
will the 10000uf 25v capacitor be used? i got one extra
@Luca_Techy
2 жыл бұрын
Yes, the inrush current limiter resistor serves to limit the current through the diode while charging this cap. The cap the will maintain the electronics voltage stable while the pulse draw current from the battery.
@solidhit2
3 жыл бұрын
Nice video as usually, just a question. I own a BH10-1K unit with the capacitor mod. Does any of the R4 resistor or the inrush resistor next to the diode mods apply to my unit?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
I haven't looked at that specific model, but as the diode is *after* the cap, the issue is mostly connected to the size of the added Cap because the diode drives that when you power it up (that's the whole initial issue). The large cap sits on the bottom pcb and is directly connected to +V from the battery with nothing in bewteen in your version (at least I believe the BH10 is so, check if you see any diode on the main board). If you have added a 1000uF 16V then you *should* be ok as the original diode can handle current peaks for a short amount of time (none have failed yet from what I know).
@solidhit2
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy The main PCB contains only the mosfets and the capacitor. On the opposite side, all there is are five diodes one for each mosfet. I wish I could send you one welder like mine but even if I order one, I doubt it will be my model, more likely to be one similar to the ones you have. For what it worths, I use my spot welder a couple of times every week. The only thing that strikes me as peculiar (perhaps I shouldn't even had to mention this) is that my device is permanently connected to my AGM battery (I have ordered quick release connectors, they haven't arrived yet) and I use the on/off switch to turn it on. The first weld, only the first, doesn't have the right timing on the beeping signal (I use auto weld) before the weld, the beeps are infact much faster. All subsequent welds are fine!
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@solidhit2 Keep in mind that even if you turn off the switch, the welder power is always there (FETs and CAP are powered) so I would suggest disconnecting it completely after use. About the timing issue: does this happen every time you turn it on or just after it's been sitting there for a while? The timing is only MCU based (no external components) and the auto trigger circuit just detects the voltage when you short the 2 contact probes. You should try with the manual weld power (use just a normal push button to test) and see if it does the same.
@solidhit2
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy Waiting for these EC5 connectors, then I will be able to easily connect/disconnect the battery. Until then, I treat the device like it's constantly powered. A quick answer to your question is that the manual mode works as expected (in the beginning I was using a foot switch), it is only the auto mode that displays that behaviour. As I wrote, I've been using the device at least a couple of times a week and this happens every time I start it, the first weld looks fine, it's just the beeping before the first weld that is very rapid (like almost no pause between the beeps)!
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@solidhit2 seems like a firmware bug to me, wouldn't worry too much about it - the important thing is that the timing is right and welds look fine!
@Fabiohappiness
3 жыл бұрын
When I was performing the R4 mod the left solder pad came off the board so the solder want stick anymore. To fix this problem I just soldered a 470ohm resistor from the right solder pad of R4 to the pin 4 on the top plate of the MCU board. I think this can be a good solution, Luca let me know if it is. Thank you
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
That depends on the way you see the board: if you look at the MCU board with the switch on the *top right* then the *right* pad of R4 goes to board contact pin 4 and the left pad goes to MCU pin 19 so it's ok to solder one side of the resistor to the left pad and the other side directly to pin 4 (to be reversed if board flipped with switch on bottom left). Just to be sure use a tester in continuity and check that the pins are correct (pin 19 of MCU should be connected to left pad of R4 holding board with switch on top right).
@Fabiohappiness
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy I've checked and it's working. Which settings do you suggest me for soldering 0.1 x 5mm nickel strip on 18650/21700 battery? I use a 3s 5000mAh 50c LiPo battery
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@Fabiohappiness That depends on the state of your battery which varies greatly. I suggest you start testing from 5ms upwards on some test battery until you find the sweet spot. With .1mm and a good LiPo 10-15ms is a good ballpark but as I said it depends on the battery.
@JB-ux5yb
3 жыл бұрын
Sry, ich verstehe englisch, kann aber nicht in englisch schreiben. Erstmal Danke das du so viel Zeit und Mühe investierst. Ich benutze den Bk11-1k und habe alle mods übernommen . Nach auflegen der Elektroden macht's piep..piep...nothing. Die fets und die diode sowie alles was ich durchgemessen habe ist in Ordnung. Ich weiß, ohne das Gerät vor Augen ist eine Diagnose nicht möglich, aber vielleicht hast du ja einen Tip woran es noch liegen könnte. Mach weiter so Vielleicht konstruierst irgendwann mal einen eigenen von Grund auf
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Please check the FET Gates to see if there is a hard short between each Gate input (pin 1 of MOS) and GND. There should be no continuity between Gate and GND (Source) rail. Then check the push-pull and driver transistors, no shorts between Base, Collector and Emitter here either.
@faxavier65
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Luca, great job. I heard you comenting the input capacitor is too big. Not necessary. I went back to read specifications, on eBay sellers, it is said in general that one can use a 18650 li-ion battery, 12V 35Ah, besides the normal Lead acid and LiPo. Which means the big capacitor does the welding inrush current balance, not just the supply voltage. Pls comment.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@faxavier65 That's the point, the large capacitor DOES NOT support the weld current, not with this circuit and diode which is why I said it's way too large (not that it's not necessary) and there's no need (a 470-1000uF one would suffice). IT DOES however in the first revision of the Mini Spot Welder (unlabeled) where you need the additional Capacitor on the MCU exactly because the large 10000uF cap *is* directly in parallel to the battery without reverse discharge diode. If you check the circuit of these later versions you will see. I am putting together a more in depth comparison on the different circuits based on the various revisions for who is interested.
@HyperF1
3 жыл бұрын
Will the inrush resistor die soon, since the charging current is way above its rated current? I use a 0805 22Ohm 0.1W resistor, will it hold? Maybe changing to a 2200 uF capacitor is a better solution?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
The peak current is around 600mA at 12V so about 6-7 Watts - but this lasts for just a few inital milliseconds. However, the .1Watt resistor may eventually fail after repeated peaks as it's thermal capacity is really small. If this ever happens it's not big problem as the welder simply won't turn on. A 1/4 watt resistor will handle those transients better. You can either increase the resistance (say 50 Ohms) or simply use a non SMD one if you want to stay on the safe side or ultimately reduce the capacitor size - but I would suggest changing the resistor with a 1/4 watt keeping 22Ohms.
@HyperF1
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy I use the SMD resistor because it can be soldered in a less hacking way i.imgur.com/85ynVLm.jpg , maybe it is better to solder an SMD inductor to absorb the pulse energy?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@HyperF1 I wouldn't suggest it as it can introduce "noise ringing" with voltage pulses and the inductor can be rather large to limit that initial current (haven't run any numbers though). Resistors are always preferrable for this kind of application.
@HyperF1
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy I doubt the necessity of the 10000uF capacitor on board since the M7 diode prevents its discharging during welding. Does this mean the unlabelled version with a 1000uF mod is better than the follow-up versions?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@HyperF1 All versions have a 10000uF cap (except the Wise Maple) but the first revisions (that need the added cap on the MCU) have this cap wired without any diode as it's in parallel to the battery. The later versions were modified with a series diode but not correctly done as you see. I am making a follow up video where I explain the various versions including the first revision to explain all the differences and errors.
@primoziskra6394
3 жыл бұрын
Is it important how powerful must this 20 oHm resistor be? Is 0.6W enaught? Thanks
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
You don't need a high wattage resistor, it's only to limit a very brief current peak, any 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt resistor will do fine.
@francisguchie1973
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy you just answered my question
@noakberglund8150
3 жыл бұрын
I have a 470 Ohm resistor but it is very small. Way smaller than yours. Is that okay? Thanks
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Any size will do, smd or normal the important thing is the value (470-500 Ohms) in this case.
@francisguchie1973
3 жыл бұрын
1/4watt or 1/2watt will work. 470ohm and 22ohm for r4 and m7 respectively
@wolfgangallinger6839
3 жыл бұрын
One more great video THX
@jovangrbic97
3 жыл бұрын
For those needing a quick recap: a 470Ohm resistor to replace R4 on MUC board, a 10Ohm resistor in series with the M7 diode charging the 10000uF cap! THOSE ARE ALL THE MODS YOU NEED (harder MOSFET on driving and lowering inrush current)!
@betterthannotgoodmtb
Жыл бұрын
Brilliant mate!
@osvaldonobuo3663
3 жыл бұрын
After all MODs on BL18 board, I have checked some signals with my scope and it still not working!! The signal that comes from MCU at base of Q1 is a negative pulse of 200mV (the DC level at base of Q1 is 600mV). On collector of Q1 (base of Q2 and Q3) the signal is positive pulse of ONLY 3V and the signal at output of Q2/Q3 (emissors) is exactly the same: a positive pulse of 3V!! So, I decided to swap the controller board with my other C04 version using the same mosfet power board... The signals are still the same. So, the problem is located on power board. I have checked all the resistors values and they are OK. What do you think? The Q1 transistor is bad?? I have even lowered the R4 value on the controller board to 220ohms and the signals didn't change!!!
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Can you check if any of your Gates are not shorted? Check every pin 1 of ever MOSFET between DRAIN and SOURCE, it should be high impedance and no short while between every 2 gates you should read 60 Ohms. Something is pulling the voltage down from the push-pull so something is not right. On the Emitter output of the push-pull towards the Gates you should read 10-12V pulse. The pulse coming from the MCU board is a negative pulse and the values that you report sound correct but need to verify it (the MCU DROPS the output voltage to turn OFF the first driver (Q1) which turns ON the push pull (Q2-Q3) as it is an inverting setup.
@osvaldonobuo3663
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy You are the MAN!!!! You were right again!!! As I have left only 3 good mosfets that didn't blown up, I was thinking that all was good, but it was not the case!!! I removed ALL mosfets and somehow one of them was pulling the trigger signal down!! Now I have a positive pulse of 11V at base of Q2/Q3 and the same pulse at output of Q2 and Q3!!! I will replace all the mosfets as soon as I receive the lot of 10 that I have already ordered at Aliexpress!! I have learned a LOT from your awesome videos!!! Thanks a lot!!!
@francisguchie1973
3 жыл бұрын
I messed up on of the terminals of the r4.. It's not holding the 470ohn resistor.. Am stuck
@Luca_Techy
2 жыл бұрын
You can find another solder point, just follow the traces to another solder joint.
@RustySWE
3 жыл бұрын
Why isn't the pin on the Mosfets farthest to the left soldered? Can you bridge all the pins with solder?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Pin 1 is the GATE, it *is* soldered and connected through a via to the other side of the pcb and goes to the trigger circuit. If you bridge it the FET won't work. I explain it in my other videos - do not bridge it with the rest (source).
@RustySWE
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy Thanks for the information, then I have to unsolder that again 🙂 was a little quick with reinforcing the soldering.
@marcopter
3 жыл бұрын
I checked the diode now and it's shorted in both directions! :P
@marcopter
3 жыл бұрын
Luca, and if i use a SS54 smd (Schottky) with 20 ohm resistor? What do you think? Just because I have a lot of them here.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@marcopter That will do fine!
@marcopter
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy I think they use a Schottky too, or am I wrong?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@marcopter The M7 is an equivalent to the normal 1N4007, it's an ordinary rectifier diode, not Schottky. You can use any diode you want here with a 20 Ohm limiting series resistor, as long as it's min 1Amp continuous you're fine.
@marcopter
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy in your video at 28:40 i can read "SS1" over the diode: kzitem.info/news/bejne/xplqyqR4q4dlqWk - It's an ordinary rectifier diode?
@tabraiz160
3 жыл бұрын
I have a questions. I have same model. I haven't done any mods, but when I connect it with big battery and try to spot weld there are only 3 beeps but it does not weld. I do not see any damage to mos. Can you tell me what could be wrong
@tabraiz160
3 жыл бұрын
Just checked the diode, it's short. Will change and see if it fixes. But wondering would there something that should I double check?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
If it doesn't weld strips, do the light bulb test as shown in my other video - this way you can check if the FETS get triggered or not. If not you have a fault in the pushpull section or you simply need to apply the R4 mod (470Ohms) as specified.
@tabraiz160
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy sure . The gets are not getting triggered. Will apply the mod and let you know can we check if my fets are good??
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
As you are not getting welds then your FETS are probably ok as when they fail they short.
@tabraiz160
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy awesome thank you , will keep you updated have ordered the diodes
@jzflmr6089
3 жыл бұрын
Did the mods check everything its ok working beeping just now welding no spark nothing -there is 12v on the electrodes always, dont know what to check anymore.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Did you change R4 with a 470Ohms? It's normal to measure a trace voltage on the electrodes as this is the "detect" voltage for the auto weld function. If you changed the resistor and you're getting no spark or no weld activity and you are sure you have a good car battery or Lipo (4000mAh 50C at least) then your FETs are not being driven - you will need to analyse the Gate signal but you can also check with a tester in Ohms if any of the Gates are shorted (pin 1 of every FET to Source or negative bus should NOT be shorted).
@uawsux
2 жыл бұрын
instead of beefing up those traces with solder why not take a piece of wire thick wire solder it went into the other and then just a little bit of solder along the way maybe even not that just sort of went into the other they're both the same place anyway..... so you are suggesting I purchase two of these you want me not even to try them open them up make these modifications otherwise they're going to burn up??
@Luca_Techy
2 жыл бұрын
You can use come copper wire to beef the tracks up too, I did this on my first one - just be careful not to short the gate pins in any case. The mods are mandatory else the FETs will fail pretty much immediately.
@abushouke
3 жыл бұрын
thanks Luca for the video its so clear now ,,,,kindly I would like to ask of the Mode that u did in the down side of the board what is it and should we do it thanks again
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
If you're referring to the copper wire strands I soldered on to the Drain and Source traces that's to improve conductivity - it's not mandatory but it lowers overall resistance and improves performance.
@abushouke
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy i did that already its good idea but i was asking about the down side down other side of the board u did something there and mention u already know about this in the video i have other Question please can i use it with 4S or 3S 15P pack
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@abushouke Oh you mean the back side - I was referring to my BK11-1K mod, you don't need this on the BL18 as it's been fixed on the top traces. Better stick with a 3S if it's really 15P (you don't need 4S). You could even use a 2S if the internal resistance is low enough - remember it's the current not the voltage that matters here.
@gocegegovski2909
3 жыл бұрын
I have a spot welder CA04 and already destroyed 2 mosfets (same problem as yours my diode died and destroy them). The problem is that i cannot find them anywhere on internet nor aliexress to fix my welder.Can you give me some link where i can buy them (by acceptable price or even better can you tell me which mosfet (fet) i can use as a replacement if is possible.Thank you in advance.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
I put a link to Aliexpress in one of my videos - or you can get them from digikey IPLU300N04S4 (Infineon). You can still use the welder with 3 FETs if you do the mods, just dont push them over 20ms if you have a strong battery (over 150CCA) to avoid overdriving and killing them. Keep in mind you should always replace them with the same matched batch.
@gocegegovski2909
3 жыл бұрын
Can you resend the link from aliexress if is not too much trouble for you? I don't know how much they cost but what you think is it not better to buy new welder and do the mods on him? And which one is the best on that matter ?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@gocegegovski2909 www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001369519751.html They are cheap, but you'll need to wait a few weeks. Else you'll need to source them on digikey but a batch 'll cost more than the welder itself.
@gocegegovski2909
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy Thank you very much.And if i choose to buy new welder which one is the best by your opinion? wise maple?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@gocegegovski2909 Check out my latest video on the comparions - the Wise Maple works but it's not the better of the lot - that would be the first Rev0 or BH/ BL19, difficult to source (I have no links) and NEEDS the CAP MOD. It's the best of the lot in terms of performance because of it's MCP FET driver.
@greenbynature
3 жыл бұрын
Well, r4 was a nightmare! I've just knackered my spot welder before I got chance to use it, once I removed r4, the new resistor wouldn't solder back in place, like the track pads had gone, so solder wouldn't stick. Pretty gutted, they are cheap, but I'm broke and can't afford another welder.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
You can still fix it as you don't really need to use those exact pads if they are gone/ripped off - you can simply solder a normal 1/4 watt 470 Ohms resistor between where those pads lead to (one comes from pin 19 of the MCU and the other goes to pin 4 of the connector) exposing some tracks. Just use a multimeter in continuity with the beep and scrape some mask off the tracks just next to where the resistor pads are to expose the copper and follow them, you can solder onto them. Don't chuck it away just yet!
@greenbynature
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy oh that's great news! Thanks for replying, Luca.
@zdenekambroz402
3 жыл бұрын
Mám BK11-1K , u všech polovodičů jsou zbroušená označení !!!!!!! ( tranzistory, Fety, diody ) made in Cina !!!!!!!!!! mohu nafotit.
@albassomirko
3 жыл бұрын
puoi fare u video su come smontare i mosfet...io non sono riuscito a dissaldarli per sostituirli...c è una tecnica particolare??
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Ciao Mirko, per smontarli andrebbe usato un (dis)saldatore ad aria calda (va bene anche una pistola ad aria calda ma devi regolarla bene a media temperatura facendo prove con dello stagno altrimenti fai un danno), ma puoi anche riuscirci con un saldatore da almeno 50Watt controllato in temperatura con molta pasta salda e stagno un modo da scaldare tutta la pista sia lato Drain che Source dei FET in modo da rimuoverli facilmente senza danneggiare le piste. Fai particolare attenzione alla pista del pin 1 del GATE anche quando li risaldi che non faccia corto.
@uawsux
2 жыл бұрын
but you didn't test it you didn't show us if it caught fire when you did that
@lmwlmw4468
3 жыл бұрын
Great mod.
@shaneelliott215
3 жыл бұрын
IS THIS A 1/4 WATT RESISTOR 22 OHM?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
yes I used a 1/4 watt resistor - anything around 20 Ohms will do fine.
@trevoradigwe
3 жыл бұрын
Hey I have one that has a board number of ca20-2k what do I need to do
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Check my previous video on all mini spot welder types in the playlist it's all explained you need to mod R4 and add inrush current resistor
@trevoradigwe
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy thank you for the quick response I had ordered a capacitor thinking I would receive the other revision and then had to go searching once I realized that the revision I had received did not have the same layout again thank you so much for your time and help
@steffenb1208
3 жыл бұрын
In the last video you said 10 Ohm is ok. Now you say 20-100 Ohm. Is 10 Ohm enough?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
10 Ohm is enough *with the original diode*. However if yours is shorted and you replace it then it depends on what diode you use, so for safety use a 20 Ohms resistor instead.
@steffenb1208
3 жыл бұрын
Ok thx, do you know the specs of the original diode? I use now a M4 and im unsure that are the specs of the old one.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
It's shown in my previous video, it's an M7 diode
@steffenb1208
3 жыл бұрын
Ok, so i need a another resistor with more then 10 Ohm. Is 20 better or 100 Ohm (100 i have) or something between?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
20 Ohms is fine for basically all 1Amp diodes (1N400x) up to 50, I don't suggest more as charging time will be in the seconds range
@mosselman72
3 жыл бұрын
I have now a model ca20 do i have to change anything??
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
I beileve the CA20 version needs the 470 Ohm resistor mod (R4) on the MCU and the inrush current limiting resistor added before or after the large Cap diode - just compare the board with this one or the ones I show in my other videos to see if it matches (I'm pretty sure it does).
@mosselman72
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy Thank you ;-)
@shaneelliott215
3 жыл бұрын
ARE THE TWO RESISTORS THE SAME ??
@francisguchie1973
3 жыл бұрын
R4 is replaced with 470ohm -1/4watt The other you add 22ohm -1/4watt
@si12volt1
Жыл бұрын
9:20 you said GOLD but i believe its a silver band so red, red, black, SILVER, brown ...I'm about to do the resister and want to be clear if its silver or gold
@Luca_Techy
Жыл бұрын
Don't worry about that band, it doesn't matter in this case, that's the tolerance band - you can use any resistor above 10 Ohms to about 50, 1/4 or 1/2 watt, any tolerance.
@si12volt1
Жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy thank you Luca
@si12volt1
Жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy can i use a 8000mAh 11.1V 100C 3S Lipo Battery
@Luca_Techy
Жыл бұрын
It's a bit of an overkill so you must be very careful with the initial weld times starting from even 2-3 ms upwards. The peak current can theoretically be over 800 Amps which can be fatal to one or 2 FETs if they are not all matched. This is what I try to explain every time I get asked this question. I will try to make a video on all these FAQs to cover them all.
@si12volt1
Жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy Thank you
@SebVsR
3 жыл бұрын
If we remove the diode and do a bridge, what will happen?
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
The cap will discharge towards the weld following the battery voltage drop (see the scope shots in previous video, battery drops to less than 5.8V then even less at the driver circuit, dangerous!). You absolutely need a diode there to avoid this!
@SebVsR
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy ok I understand, so it can't be the cause of my problems on my 2 spot welders. I will check if the diode is shorted. I don't understand why the mosfet are not driven after the 3 beeps and it drives me crazy 😝. Help me to find why please, you can contact me on messenger nickname seb vsr.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@SebVsR will try to help out but without a scope to check what's happening with the trigger circuit it's not likely I will be able to succeed! You really need to trace what happens on pin 4 of the mcu board and check the 1k/10k divider, transistor driver and pushpull
@SebVsR
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy how can I contact you to talk about it, on youtube it is not convenient 😕
@shaneelliott215
3 жыл бұрын
AND WHAT RESISTOR FOR THE R4
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
R4 should be replaced with a 470 to 500 Ohms value - it's all explained also in my other videos with schematics - check them out.
@bladez2107
3 жыл бұрын
I removed my diode from the board and it tested 0 in both directions can anyone tell me what replacement diode I need from digikey? I prefer digikey because they are based out of my hometown.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
You can replace it with practically ANY standard diode - it needn't be an SMD component, just a regular 1N400X diode will do. The one on the board is equivalent to a 1N4007 in DO-214 package (M7) but that's not necessary, you can use any 1N4002- 1N4007 1 Amp diode adding a regular 20 Ohm series resistance. As there is space you can use a regular non SMD diode and just solder the legs on the pads. Just solder the series resistor to one side and place it so that one side of the resitor goes to one pad the other to the diode and the end of the diode to the other pad - with the right polarity of course. If you really want to source a replacement from digikey, this one would do fine: www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/GF1B/GF1BFSCT-ND/3042628 or any equivalent in DO-214 package rated 1 Amp 50V upwards.
@bladez2107
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy any chance you could link the two resistor as well the 20 ohm and 470 ohm? I dont know what wattage they should be. Thank You really hoping this fixes my issue.
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
@@bladez2107 any 1/4 or even 1/8th Watt resistor will do.
@bladez2107
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy so i got my parts today and put them in... but the screen wouldnt work so i put the original resistor back into r4 and good news is it works but i blew a mosfet the first time i tried it so i pulled it off and tried it again at 30 and it blew another one. Any idea why i am blowing mosfets?
@bladez2107
3 жыл бұрын
@@Luca_Techy I ended up have some surface mount resistors and replaced r4 with one of those and it works now... Its running on only 3 mosfets but its working just curious how high I dare turning it up
@SebVsR
3 жыл бұрын
Luca, if you want my 2 welders that drive me crazy, just give me your coords, I will send it to you. I don't want to buy a scope just for this shit, it's too expensive compared to the price of these (I have been refounded for the 2 welders). I just want you yo do a video once you repaired it :)
@Luca_Techy
3 жыл бұрын
Drop me an email here icecooldaiceman+youtube@gmail.com
@91woocash
3 жыл бұрын
funny how people dont understand how to connect a resistor in series , if they still dont know after this video they shouldnt touch a soldering iron, thanks tho
@johncoops6897
3 жыл бұрын
More importantly, if they don't understand how to connect a resistor in series then they CERTAINLY shouldn't be playing around with something as inherently dangerous as 18650 lithium batteries.
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