Sling between the simulrappers is best practice. Obviously the prusik mitigates the risk but maybe worth mentioning to your audience.
@MadLlamaFilms
Жыл бұрын
I think the sling is for when the rope isn't fixed at the top
@mitchellbaker4806
Жыл бұрын
@@MadLlamaFilms agreed. Like I said the prusik "fixes" the two strands together. But still, some people may look at this and think that's how you simulrap in all cases, no sling.
@not_sure-n5o
Жыл бұрын
Not a true simul rap, but this is definitely best practice for guiding two climbers down any rappel. The Belay plate being used by the guide at the top isolates the two strands from each other. @mitchell baker The prusik is a third hand backup for the guide’s rappel, which will engage when the two below come off their individual strands and deactivate the brake function of the guide plate. I don’t know if a prusik alone is effective at keeping two ropes from sliding past each other but I wouldn’t trust it for that.
@not_sure-n5o
Жыл бұрын
@@mitchellbaker4806 it’s the guide plate fixing the ropes, not the prusik
@David-cp6rl
Жыл бұрын
The prusik is just her third hand for when she rappels
@mitchellbaker4806
Жыл бұрын
Can also add friction by simply wrapping around your waist.
@Toastiiiiiiiiiiiiii
Ай бұрын
Cool
@only_climb
11 ай бұрын
nice!!
@4ClimbingoutLoud
8 ай бұрын
Okay so have some questions here because I have never set up a repel for three. I notice that the strand on the right is ran through the chain and is tied into the second rope. I’m uncertain on what that knot is but from the angle I’m assuming it’s a square knot? I notice that climber number two and three is set up on one individual strand and the first climber is set up to repel on both strands. Once at the ground does the 1st climber just pull the rope on the left hand side that is not ran through the chain to bring the rope back down. Looks pretty simple but just want to be certain I understand this right.
@rockclimbinginstruction
8 ай бұрын
The knot is a flat overhand bend (flat meaning dressed and tightened, bend meaning joining of two ropes), so really it’s just an overhand knot with long tails. And yes, the rope gets pulled from the knot side, though in this instance it was at the next rappel anchor, not the ground.
@dannybannon4625
Жыл бұрын
Looks like Contagion in vegas
@rockclimbinginstruction
Жыл бұрын
Good eye!
@MelbourneClimbingSchool
Жыл бұрын
Great system. Are the first two people complete beginners/clients? Wondering if you'd be comfortable doing this with clients or only people who are competent.
@rockclimbinginstruction
Жыл бұрын
This was an experienced group of three. The guide would likely want to be one of the people simul rappelling if using this system with clients.
@bryankano6247
Жыл бұрын
Is that an EDK or a figure 8 connecting the two ropes?
@mitchellbaker4806
Жыл бұрын
It's a double overhand. The name EDK is unhelpful and should be avoided imho.
@rockclimbinginstruction
Жыл бұрын
The knot connecting the two ropes at the anchor is a Flat Overhand Bend with long tails (aka an EDK). (A double overhand is a different knot, often what is used as a standard stopper knot such as at the end of a rappel rope.)
You shouldn't use figure 8's for joining rap ropes, the knot can roll off the end a lot easier. The double EDK, or double fisherman's, are the best to use for that scenario
@Captaraknospider
10 ай бұрын
Just take turns.
@noahroach4931
9 ай бұрын
Lame
@as3fawf
Жыл бұрын
stupid way to die with so many good alternatives..
@FestiveLongJohns24
Жыл бұрын
Care to elaborate on why this is unsafe, or provide some better options for us? Or are you just here to be a hater?
@as3fawf
Жыл бұрын
@@FestiveLongJohns24 both strands need to be loaded at the same time and all time (i see your friction knot and imo its still sketchy). Better google biner block if you have two strands available and don't want to use both with an atc. Then abseil one after the other. That process takes not much more time and adds safety. Look it up - people died that way. Also you seem to know some method because some 3rd person needs to remove the friction knot. Still just hatin' ;)
@as3fawf
Жыл бұрын
@@FestiveLongJohns24 just saw the atc of the camera guy.. Makes it a little safer but more complex means more can go wrong.. Also all are in the system and can't flee.
@David-cp6rl
Жыл бұрын
You are just confused... a biner block doesn't isolate both strains and is more dangerous on a simul rap because the blocked side rappeller could unweight it.. Also, the "friction knot" as you call it is just her third hand for her rappel.. This really isn't that complicated.
@Pebbs800
Ай бұрын
@@FestiveLongJohns24 Potentially putting the double overhand holding the whole system together under weird forces with the anchor primarily. It would just make more sense to go one by one in almost every situation.
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