Rad video! I did this climb years ago and my memory is fuzzy for some parts, so it was nice to see it again. I vividly remember that rightward slab traverse, but I don't think we left it unprotected like you did! I'm pretty sure we climbed up into the roof, placed a big piece on a long sling and then made the traverse. Great job -- making me amped to get on this climb again!
@TheTurtlesaregreen
8 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the full unedited footage! RIP knees
@GiantRock
3 жыл бұрын
Woa killer shots! I am working on a little vid about the history of "Open Book." It was first done back in the 50's and I interviewed the guy who did the first ascent, Royal Robbins, a few years before he passed away. I was wondering if you would allow me to include a few of your shots in my video? On screen credit would be given when your footage is shown and I would put whatever link you want, to your channel perhaps, in the description of the video. No worries if not but thought it couldn't hurt to ask. Cheers and happy climbing!
@AxelEsselmann
3 жыл бұрын
Please, go ahead! Would love to see what you come up with, would you mind posting it here when you are done?
@GiantRock
3 жыл бұрын
@@AxelEsselmann Thanks man here ya go! kzitem.info/news/bejne/0HydxXynbHuChXY
@HarmonyHartwell
9 жыл бұрын
We just did this route this weekend ! Nice to watch it from your POV ! Thanks for posting ! Adji Yoga ( San Pedro )
@toddphillips9989
3 жыл бұрын
I loved those 5.10 Coyotes. One of my favorite all-around shoe! Great route!
@AxelEsselmann
3 жыл бұрын
They are great all-round trad shoes! I think those coyotes had a total of 3 resoles until the leather finally disintegrated ;-) For long trad days I now mostly use the TC Pros because they protect the ankle in wider cracks.
@hellosugaree
5 жыл бұрын
So sick. Looks so clean. That off width section you liebacked that started around 21:00 had my heart pumping just watching it. Looks like you almost slipped trying to clip the cam. I'm a 5.6/5.7 leader and this makes me drool. Sick video. Also nice that you got sound without a bunch of helmet scraping sound. Cheers
@AxelEsselmann
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you! It's one of my favorite SoCal routes. You definitely caught me, there were lots and lots of helmet scraping and banging noises... I remember spending a good amount of time editing them out.
@bryanwalz9076
8 жыл бұрын
Looks worthy of 50 classic climbs of America. looks pretty stout. I would have liebacked the entire 4 inch section. if someone recommends 3 - #4, I'm taking 6. my trad rack is 40 lbs and I take it all with me if I'm doing a 10 ft crack or multi pitch. my hands were sweating when he was sliding that 1 #4. that was his only piece for 60 ft and then hugely ran it out and then jumped on the slab finish. I would have put 2 pieces in before going on slab. friends don't let friends climb slab!!! 35 ft fall and shattered ankle cured me of slab. putting that route on my bucket list. I recommend the center route on cynical pinical south Platte colorado. 3 pitches of every move 5.9+ #2 until the last pitch #6. always take extra webbing to replace raps. some of that stuff has been sun baking for 20 yrs. big a spare metal ring for running rope through on raps. rope on Web = xxx
@NickDangerThirdGuy
5 жыл бұрын
The second time I did that route in the 80's I ran out the bit below the crux potato chip and ended up taking a good 40 footer just for being cocky :)
@AxelEsselmann
3 жыл бұрын
You sir have more guts than I.
@evelynwall7470
3 жыл бұрын
Makes me so happy that I ordered a pair of tc pros
@ericshuler6300
2 жыл бұрын
5:38, just wondering why you would unclip from the bolt after placing the cam?
@AxelEsselmann
2 жыл бұрын
It has been a while since I have been on the route so I am trying to figure out what my reasoning was based on viewing the footage... I think without extending the sling or unclipping from the piton I was worried about drag since the next cam placement was so far in the crack. I also don't think the pitons are in great shape on that route, they are multiple decades old, are of pretty suspect condition and they might have come loose over the years... so the cost-benefit analysis in that moment might have been: more drag with a piece I don't trust vs good cam placement and slightly longer runout below without drag...
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