a comment on SixtyFiveDropTop's comment about O2 sensors not wearing out, but suddenly failing. Actually, they DO wear out, However as they are a dynamic device, and function off of a known set of parameters that are based on the laws of physics, they are also self calibrating. It is when they fall outside the known operating ranges that your vehicle generates the dreaded P0131 through P0139 errors which all report response time issues. You only notice the O2 sensors when they HAVE worn out and failed, this is why auto manufacturers list a specific operating life on them, they wear out.
@madmac66
7 жыл бұрын
Interesting. Does the direct flame not damage the internal elements? Also, visually, should a sensor look clean, black or white? Is there any diagnosis one can gain about the state of ones engine or cat by looking at the sensor(s). I just replaced my downstream sensors and after a month they are black and sooty already
@RockysRoadshow
7 жыл бұрын
Greetings...Mad Mac 66.........Thanks for watching..........Well, the Propane Flame, by itself, probably isn't too hot for the Oxygen Sensor, as compared to, something like, a Gas, Welding or Cutting Torch, that usually mixes in Oxygen (with the primary gas), that will increase the Flame's Temperature, probably to the point, where, if used on an Oxygen Sensor, then, that poor ole Oxygen Sensor's Metal, would probably Melt, where-ever, that very Hot Flame, was contacting.............Generally speaking, an Oxygen Sensor has to reach a Temperature, of about 600 Degrees Fahrenheit, before ,it will start to work properly anyways.............The Deposits, on a used Oxygen Sensor, shouldn't be very much at all, just some slight coloration, but only "if", the Engine, the On-Board Computer, the Catalytic Converter/s, and all of the Sensors and Actuators, are "All" working Correctly, and All of them, at the very same time, as in, 24/7/365 Days a Year, but only, when the Engine is actually Running (think in terms of..."The Chain, is only as Strong, as its Weakest Link").............I have a Video, on my KZitem Channel...RockysRoadshow...where I show an Oxygen Sensor, all covered with, a black, dry, carbon coating (on it)............If Your recently Replaced, the Post (after) the Cat (Cat = Catalytic Converter) Oxygen Sensors, and, they are all covered, with that Dry black Carbon, then, there's Trouble-in-Pair-ah-Dice, most likely (were Your Deposits, black and "Dry", or, were they "Oil-ee" looking at all...???)............The Engine, is probably running too Rich (air/fuel ratio), or, is there lots of (engine related) Misfiring going on, and, if so, raw/unburned gasoline, will be flowing through the exhaust system, and is "Not Good", for a Catalytic Converter" (damage)............There are 2 basic things, that should be done, and is, as follows............The first being, a Fuel "Pressure" Test (I have a Video on that, for a GMC/Chevy 4.3 V-6 Engine, that will show You, what's generally goin' on).............The other, is to Extract the "Trouble Codes" (if any?), that might be Stored, in the Vehicle's, On-Board Computer's "Memory".............If Your Vehicle is about 1996 or Newer, then, it should have, an OBD-2 (On-Board Diagnostics, Version 2) System in it, where-by, a "Scan Tool" (looks, kinda like, a slightly larger hand held calculator), has to be Connected to a 16-Pin Port/Connector, that's usually, just under the steering, there-abouts, most times............Some Automotive Parts businesses, might, "For FREE", Scan Your Vehicle's On Board Computer, so, just Phone some of them, and hopefully, You'll find one, that does.............The "Correct" Fuel Pressure, is very "important", on a Fuel Injected engine..............If any "Trouble Codes" are found, in the On-Board Computer's "Memory", then, they only point You in the right direction, pretty much meaning, that, oh, let's say that, it's an Oxygen Sensor code, well, it might turn out to be, a bad Wire, or Connection somewhere, sometimes............You might have a Trouble Code, that ends with 420, and that is usually the code, for a Catalytic Converter, that is not working, as good as it should be (worn out?)............Dry black Carbon, on, both Oxygen Sensors, and/or Spark Plugs, are a very good indication of Gasoline being wasted, and not burning properly, in most cases...........Even when the Engine, and its Management system, are working properly at all times, then, even Oxygen Sensors, will eventually Wear Out, and, will cause a problem or two, when they do............If the "Cross Counts" (that, kinda looks like a sine wave, as in a wave, that goes above and below, a center line), start to slow down too much, on something like, a Narrow Band oxygen sensor, then, even without a trouble code (on some systems), there is a possibility, that, a Rich (air/fuel ratio), will start happening (just ask me...lol).............Are there any Warning Lights, lighting up, on Your vehicle's Dash Board at all...???...cuz, that's usually something, that needs to be tended to, sooner, rather than later...........If it isn't too late, then, get Your Vehicle's Problem, or Problems "Fixed", as soon as possible, to try and "Save" Your Catalytic Converters, from being totally Damaged/Destroyed, cuz, imagine now, the Cost of Replacing not 1, but 2 Catalytic Converters.............Also, Don't install New Catalytic Converters, on any Vehicle, that "is Not" Running Properly, and as it should be, or, the New Cat or Cats, will become Useless and Damaged as well, and I hope not.............Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@madmac66
7 жыл бұрын
RockysRoadshow Thanks Rocky. I do have a 430 code, cat operating below efficient levels. I recently changed oil, replaced all 6 spark plugs and removed and cleaned the throttle body. Even removed the cat and gave it a good cleaning. Plugs were in quite bad shape, but more white than black and sooty. Mostly they were a good tan color. That's when I replaced the O2 sensors as well. Like you suggest, I'm reluctant to replace the cat until I e isn't something further upstream causing damage
@RockysRoadshow
7 жыл бұрын
Greetings...Mad Mac 66.............You're welcome..........That 430 Code, comes up as, Catalytic Converter, working below efficiency threshold, on "Bank 2".......Usually, "Bank 1", is the side of the Engine, that has the Number 1 Cylinder (number) on it (so, Bank 2, should be, the, shall we say, Other side of the engine), and Check, to see if I'm right or not, just in case............That's quite helpful (that 430 Code), cuz, at least now, it kinda narrows thing down, to that Bank 2, side of the engine, hopefully, that is.............Some, of the Post/after the Cat, Oxygen Sensors, depending on the vehicle's manufacturer, might have a role to play, with the information, that it sends to the vehicle's on-board computer, and might be used, and have something to say, as far as the air/fuel ratio is concerned, from what I've read in the past, that is............There are certain Parts, that have to be changed out, on a Time, and/or Mileage basis, such as...Spark Plugs...spark plug Wires (if applicable)...all Filters, oil, gas, and air...Distributor Cap & Rotor (if applicable)...etc. , so, it's always a good idea, to keep up with, all of those, shall we say, "Tune-up" items, and consider them, a Must-Do, when they need Do-in, or, sometimes, some, not wanted, or not needed Problems, will probably start to show up...........Is there a noticeable Misfiring of the Engine at all...???...Rough Running...with engine Cold or Hot...???..............If You can let me know, about, Your Vehicle's...Year...Make...Model...Engine Size...etc., then, I'll have a much better chance at helping You out, and.........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@ism381
8 жыл бұрын
thanks for the video I have this code 2C9F can you please tell me what is the problem? [oxygen sensor heating after catalytic converter 2, activation] i don't have check engine light. my car is x5 E70 2007 4.8i
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
Greetings...ismail alnadabi...............You're welcome, and thanks for watching................The BMW Code, that You mentioned, comes up, as a problem with the "Oxygen Sensor", that is "After", the Number "2" Catalytic Converter, and, could be a problem, with that particular Oxygen Sensor's (built inside of it) "Heater"/circuit, or maybe, something wrong, with that particular Oxygen Sensor's, (electrical) Wiring Circuit, that is connected to, Your X5's...On-Board Computer...............You might have a "Dual" Exhaust System (as in, 2 Exhaust Pipes, 1 Exhaust Pipe, on each side of the Engine), on Your BMW X5, and has me thinkin', that, there could be, "2" Catalytic Converters, on Your Vehicle, and might also have, "4" Oxygen Sensors as well............That "Code", was probably pointing to, the "Post" (or After, the) Number "2" Catalytic Converter.................If You get Lucky, You, might only have to, "Replace", that particular "Oxygen Sensor", with a "New" one, in order to "Fix" Your X5...and...if that Doesn't Fix the problem, then, further Testing, will probably have to be done, in order to find out, what is actually causing the problem................Good Luck, and till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@ismailalnadabi791
8 жыл бұрын
thank you very much for the replay, today i got the new one & i am going to change it tomorrow i will feed you back dear
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
Greetings...ismail alnadabi...............Here are a few things, that will hopefully, help You out..............Make sure, that You have the "Exact" Oxygen Sensor (Part Number), that gets installed in, the "After", the Catalytic Converter position, cuz sometimes, they can be Different, than, the, "In Front of", the Catalytic Converter ones..................The "Bank" and the (position) "Number", for Your BMW X5's, V-8 Engine, should be as follows, as long as I get it right, that is, and, You can also, check for Yourself as well, just to be sure................The "Bank", of the Engine, is usually, the Side of the V-8 Engine, (maybe, but not always), and usually has, the Engine's, Number "1" Cylinder (on that particular Side)...so, Your X5's Engine, appears to have, Cylinder "Number 1", on the Right Hand Side of the Engine, as You are sitting in the Driver's Seat, and, as far as I know, that will be..."Bank 1".............Then, that leaves, the "Left Hand Side", of the X5's, V-8 Engine, as..."Bank 2"...being the "Side", that, You were saying..."after catalytic converter 2"...being, where the Problem is, possibly...???...............Now then, as for, the "Position", that the Oxygen Sensor is Located/installed in................You were saying..."after catalytic converter 2"...well, I could take a guess, but, I'm not all that sure, that I'd be 100% correct, so, make sure, "Before" You install, the New Oxygen Sensor, maybe Check first, as to where, the "Correct Location" happens to be................So, for future reference, something like, "Bank, 1 or 2" (of the engine)...and..."Sensor, 1, 2, or 3"...(oxygen sensor location), can mean Different Positions, depending on the Manufacturer, of the Vehicle & Engine in question, so, always "Check", the "Bank" (of the engine), and (oxygen sensor) "Location", for Your "Exact" Vehicle and Engine, so things, don't get messed up...............If Your BMW X5, does have, a Dual Exhaust System, and, it happens to be, the one that I saw, then, there will probably be, "2 Catalytic Converters", on Your X5, kinda positioned, side by side, and spaced apart, some-what, and, there will probably be, 4 Oxygen Sensors in total (I think)...............1 Oxygen Sensor "Before"...and...1 Oxygen Sensor "After"...each of the (two), Catalytic Converters, that are part of, Your X5's, dual exhaust system, well, if I get it right, that is.................You might find, that, a used/installed in the exhaust system, Oxygen Sensor, can be quite Stubborn/Difficult, to Break Loose/Loosen initially, so, sometimes, I use a Hammer (or what-ever), to hit, on the Wrench, cuz, the Impact (of the Hammer, on the Wrench), will usually be more forceful, and superior-to, that, of, just trying to, pull, or push, on the Wrench, as the case may be...............Make sure, to put some, High Heat, "Anti-Seize" Compound/Paste, on the screw-threads, of the New oxygen sensor, before installing it, or, it's gonna get "Stuck" real good, once the exhaust system, gets Hot again..!!!...oh, and, "Don't", get any "Anti-Seize" compound/goop, on the "Sensing End" of the oxygen sensor, or it might, contaminate/ruin it...!!!...just so You know, oh, and, make sure, that, the New oxygen sensor's "Wires", are, well away from, any, Hot or Moving parts, that might Damage them...............Now I'm thinkin', that, the "Bad" Oxygen Sensor, will possibly be located, on the Catalytic Converter, that's on the Left Side (Bank 2), and, at the Rear of it as well (oxygen sensor)..."Position 2"...cuz...(Bank 1, will probably be on the Right Hand side, and, (oxygen sensor) "Position 1", will probably be, in "Front" of, the cat/catalytic converter, and, will probably be, on the Right Hand side as well), as far as I know, so, like I mentioned earlier (some-what)..."Always, Check and Verify"...the..."Bank" (of the engine)...and...(oxygen sensor) "Position"...of those good ole Oxygen Sensors, for Your "Exact" Vehicle and Engine, that way, as I see it, will usually, make for, a lot less Headaches, in the long run, so to speak................Make sure, to keep things "Safe", especially, when-ever, Working Under a Vehicle...!!!..............Good Luck...and...till next time........Be (Extra) Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@Rafa_guitars
3 жыл бұрын
You are missing a very important fact O2 sensors don't defect oxygen they just compare oxygen levels at the tip to oxygen levels at the tail. The reason is coming as Rich is because in your case oxygen levels are about the same
@JahanZeb1976
10 жыл бұрын
Thanks for subscription man! I am also going to subscribe your wonderful channel. I just went through your videos as that time I watched one of your Oxygen sensor video only. Now I will watch all of your video and in future also will be waiting for your upload! Have a great day and have fun. Regards,
@TheBrownrave
8 жыл бұрын
I finally after all these years blindly replacing them took time to understand the why it does or don't. Very good explanation. Thank you
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
Greetings...TheBrownrave..............You're welcome, and, Thanks for watching..............Well, there are a few Different types of Oxygen Sensors, and, they also Operate, in a some-what, Different manner, as compared to, the Oxygen Sensor, that You saw in this KZitem Video of mine..............This, Mid-1990's, Oxygen Sensor (design), that You saw in this particular Video (of mine), is known as the..."Zirconia"..."Narrow Band"...(type), and it Generates its Own Voltage Output, when it gets Heated up to, about 600 Degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, and the Voltage range, that it produces, is usually between, just above, 0 (zero) Volts, to no more, than, about 1 (one) Volt................Then, there's the..."Titania"...(type of) Oxygen Sensor, that, when heated up, to its Operating Temperature, will be Varying its (Ohms) "Resistance" Value (Not Volts), and, from what I recall, the Vehicle's On-Board Computer, might be sending about 5 Volts, to this Titania (type of) Oxygen Sensor, and then, that (original) 5 Volts, will probably, get Changed, to a Different Voltage Value, due to, what-ever (ohms) Resistance, that it encounters, at the Titania (type of) Oxygen Sensor, and then, that Modified/Different Voltage Value, then, gets sent back to the vehicle's On-Board Computer, for further processing, well, if I get it right, that is.................Then, there's the..."Wide-Band"...(Lambda...???)...(type of) Oxygen Sensor as well.............This, "Wide-Band" (type of) Oxygen Sensor, from what I recall, has a..."Stoichiometric"...Value/Point...and...(that be, oh, about 14.7 to 1 Air/Fuel Ratio, at about sea level/altitude, where-by, the Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, will have the best chance, at Burning completely, and will usually, be taking place, once the engine, is up to, about operating temperature, and also, the Engine, is either, just idling, or, the vehicle, is just cruisin' along, at not, too fast of a speed, on a level road, for example), and, any Value "Lower" than, that Stoichiometric Value/Point, is (from what I recall), should be, a "Richer", Air/Fuel Ratio, and, any Value "Above"...that Stoichiometric Value/Point, then, it will probably be, a "Leaner" (air/fuel ratio), than, that, "Stoichiometric" Value/Point of, about 14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio................Engines, that are Started Cold, as well as, going, something like, WOT/Wide Open Throttle/Pedal-to-the-Metal ("High" Engine "Load"), then, the Engine, has to be fed, a much "Richer" Air/Fuel Ratio (mixture)...as in, about 12.5 to 1 Air/Fuel Ratio, there-abouts, as an example, or, if not, as in, a Way Too Lean, of an Air/Fuel Ratio, then, the Engine will usually end up getting "Damaged", oh, and, also, the Oxygen Sensor's "Signal", usually gets "Ignored", by the vehicle's On-Board Computer, at this time, and, it usually, goes into, what is generally known, as "Open Loop" (operating mode)................The On-Board Computer's..."Closed Loop" (operating mode), usually takes place, once the Engine is up to, about Operating Temperature, and, the Oxygen Sensor is also, up to its Operating Temperature, then, the On-Board Computer, will go into "Close Loop" (operating mode), and, will actually be "Listening" to/reading, the Oxygen Sensor's "Signal" (be it, what-ever it happens to be, at the time), but..."Only"...when the Engine is warm, and is just Idling, or just Cruising along (as an example), at, not too fast of a speed ("Low" Engine "Load")..................Then, also, depending on the type of Oxygen Sensor in question, then, there can be, as few as, "1" Wire, attached to it, to as many as, "4" Wires (might even be more, perhaps), attached to it..............The "Single/One" Wire, type of Oxygen Sensor, will probably, only have, that "One" Wire, as being the Signal Wire, and, will probably, be depending on, the oxygen sensor's Metal Body, to provide the (electrical) Ground, where it makes contact, with the exhaust system/pipe.................Also, when it comes to Oxygen Sensors, pay very "Close Attention", to the "Part Number"/Description, and "Location", that, that particular Oxygen Sensor gets installed "in", as in, for example, some of the Oxygen Sensors, that get installed..."Pre"-Cat (that be, "Before" the Catalytic Converter) Oxygen Sensor, can sometimes, be a..."Different"..."Part Number"...when compared to, the..."Post"-Cat (that be, "After" the Catalytic Converter) Oxygen Sensor, just so You know.............If there happens to be, oh, let's say, "3", or More "Wires", coming out of an Oxygen Sensor, then, I'd be inclined, to be thinkin', that, there's probably a "Heater", built into, and hidden inside of, this type of Oxygen Sensor.........."Heater"...???...say what...???......well, the "Heater", that's (hidden) inside, will usually, "Heat" the Oxygen Sensor, up to its Operating Temperature, very Quickly, as compared to, probably Waiting, for, quite some time, for the engine's Exhaust Gas, to get that particular "Non-Heated", type of Oxygen Sensor, Heated up, to its required Operating Temperature, so it can Function, as intended...and, just imagine now...that poor ole (older type of) Oxygen Sensor, that's, shall we say "Heater-less", and, it happens to be, a very Cold Winter's Day, where the Dog's drinking Water, is Frozen, Two inches Thick...!!!......then, I ask You..."How long, (time-wise), do You think, that, it will take, for the, Cold, and just Started Engine's...Exhaust Gas, all by itself, to be able to, "Heat-Up", that, almost "Frozen", Oxygen Sensor, up to, at least 600 Degrees Fahrenheit...???...interesting huh...and, with the above, all said and done, I now say.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@slavric
8 жыл бұрын
Hello. Thanks for the useful video. I used this instruction to test the probe on my wife's BMW, which didn't pass the exhaust test. I couldn't get it over 0.4V, so I ordered a new one. I was burning it red hot without success. So thanks for your help. Will see if the new sensor will solve the problem or is it something else there too.
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
+Srečko Lavrič ....Greetings Srecko Lavric....You're welcome, and, Thanks for watching..............That .4 Volts, that You got, sure seems kinda Low alright...............The, shall we say, Official Test, that was suggested, by a very well Respected Automotive Component Manufacturer, should be as follows....................When the Sensing Tip, of a Zirconia type of Oxygen Sensor, is Heated-Up in a Propane Flame, it should be Producing .8 or More Volts, with-in 1 Minute..................Then, when that same Heated-Up Oxygen Sensor, is Taken-Away from that Propane Flame, the Voltage Reading, should Drop Down, very close to 0/Zero Volts, With-in 3 Seconds................Now, here are a few of my own thoughts.........If, the Zirconia type of Oxygen Sensor, that's being Tested, in the above manner, Fails either of the 2 Tests above, then, even Before Testing (as above), and still being Installed in the Vehicle's Exhaust System, of an OBD-2 (On Board Diagnostics-Version 2) Computer controlled system, that, as I recall, started being Installed in Vehicles, oh, about 1996 there-abouts, then, the Faulty/not so good, Oxygen Sensor, or, Oxygen Sensors, as the case may be, would probably be Detected, by the Vehicle's On-Board Computer, and, the Trouble Code, or Codes, that were Stored, in the On-Board Computer's Memory, could very well be, along the lines of, One, or more Oxygen Sensors, that might have, a "Slow Response", or possibly, a "No Response", once the Trouble Codes have been Verified, that is.......................If You are having any problems after You get that New Oxygen Sensor installed in Your BMW, then, it would probably be a good idea, to have Your BMW's, OBD-2, On-Board Computer "Scanned", if, Your BMW is about 1996 or later, that is.....................Some Automotive Parts Sales Businesses, that I've heard about, will actually "Scan" a Vehicle's, OBD-2, type of, On-Board Computer for "Free"...!!!...just make a few Phone Calls, in the area where You live, and ask them..................Another thing to have Tested (but probably, Not Free), is, the BMW's "Fuel Pressure", to Verify, that, it's with-in, Your Exact Vehicle and Engine's Specifications...................If You need any further help at all, just let me know....................Good Luck, and.........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@twahabotto3288
3 жыл бұрын
I have a question the check engine light on after one kilometer
@vernjackson1509
9 жыл бұрын
Just a Note on your Test! Holding the O2 sensor closer to the Flame will generate a hi Number as Rich. Only because the O level is pushed away which will yeald a Richer value . AS you pull back some a Lean will ocurr as More Oxygen gets to the sensor. Not related to the Propane itself. The Sensor does not care what fuel you use but what Oxygen is Present. Rich means Less oxygen. Thanks Note that the Propane test will work with Nat or Map Gas or any other burn Materail like wood.
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
+Vern Jackson Greetings Vern Jackson....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment as well..............................Well, as far as this Narrow Band, Zirconia, Oxygen Sensor, that's being used, in this KZitem Video of mine, is concerned, I believe that, You are correct, in that, it probably is, just the Oxygen itself, from the Flame, that is creating the output voltage, along with some help, from the Oxygen, that's available, in the "Outside", Ambient Air, that supposedly Enters, the Inside, of this very same oxygen sensor, once it gets heated-up, to that magical temperature, of about 600 Degrees Fahrenheit or more................................A while back, I remember Looking for, the Entry Point, for that External Air, that's supposed to Enter, the oxygen sensor, and, it wasn't Obvious at all...!!!.........................................The best I could find, was that, that "Outside Air" (containing, that much needed Oxygen), made its way, "Into" the Inside, of the oxygen sensor's Body, was, Beside/Around, the Very Small amount of Clearance, that was surrounding, the Outside of the Wiring, that Entered, the Outside-most End, of the oxygen sensor's Body...!!!...Holy-Gwalk-ah-Mole-ee...!!!...lol................................These, so called "Narrow Band" (narrow-minded...lol) oxygen sensors, aren't all that smart, after all.............................While in Closed Loop mode, about all, "it/they" can do, is tell, the vehicle's On-Board Computer that..."That's Too Much Fuel" (Rich)...or..."That's Not Enough Fuel" (Lean)...and the poor ole On-Board Computer, is Frantically, Pulsing the Injector/s...at different Pulse Widths...in order to try and stay with-in the Stoichiometric ballpark, be-in around, oh, about 14.7 to 1 for 100% Gasoline, while at the very same time, having that Narrow Band Oxygen Sensor, outputting, pretty much, around .45 volts (hopefully...lol)...............................Lambda...(dare I say Wideband...???...lol)...Oxygen Sensors, are a whole different animal................With Different Fuels, being used/burned, I believe that, that good ole Lambda, will be outputting the...Number 1...when-ever, just about any Type of Fuel, is at the Stoichiometric value (some food for though, that is alright)...................................Good thing, for Engine Knock Sensors, as, once the Knock is Detected, then, hopefully, the vehicle's On-Board Computer, will be able to keep the Engine Safe, and not sustain any Damage, and the Nightmare, that goes along with it...!!!.................................Also, I made another KZitem Video, using this same Oxygen Sensor and Propane Torch, but, this (or was it) that time, I used my, rather LARGE, Automotive specific, Analogue Testing Mulit-Meter, in order to see, whether or not, that Waving Pointer/Needle, would be showing any "Cross-Counts" at all...???...........So, there You have it, for now that is, and...till next time....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@datadata1641
7 жыл бұрын
Vern Jay6 c.f. h in 6 (209) m ckson 6th
@vernjackson1509
9 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your return. I was just noted on your point of why propane was as rich or more as any fuel. The Fuel simply replaces the Oxygen to a point we call good. Static Position in the burn and Flame temp all effect that value. I use a O2 Sensor in my Wood Stove to get the best burn. The White Ash no Tar program which I am sure you can see works great. The Signal can be amplified using any Transistor chip gate wired for Analog or Op Amp etc. That can Open the Door Air Vent to any desired value. THem O2 units can be used even in your Lawn Tractor etc. to dial the burn. Maybe others have done but putting a Bung on the side to top area of a Wood stove Ahead of the Flu will give you the O2 Count same as any exhaust Manifold. As the Value Rises saying rich the Air Door Opens more related with a spring Loaded Solanoid. Take Care. Vern.Ps your vid is good and I have used that test as well.
@alancooper7062
10 жыл бұрын
Why not read off the voltage with the sensor in position? Wouldnt that be more accurate ?
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
Greetings Alan Cooper....I will start off with...Thanks for watching and commenting, with some very good questions as well....This particular Oxygen Sensor that you see in this KZitem video of mine, was replaced with a "New" Oxygen Sensor a number of years ago, as I'm sure, that it was well past the Recommended Mileage/Kilometer-age "Replacement-Interval" that the Manufacturer suggested/recommended, and, I kept this Old/Used Oxygen Sensor, much like I tend to do, with plenty of "Other" vehicle parts, that can also be seen on my KZitem Channel as well. What I was trying to accomplish, and show People World-wide, was the way in which a typical Oxygen Sensor "Reacts", when heated, to what I like to call, the "Magic Temperature" of "600-degrees-fahrenheit" (so, if it is functional, we might just see some Voltage being displayed on my yellow multi-meter), and how it "Senses" the actual "Oxygen-Content" that was in near proximity to the oxygen sensors "Sensing-end/tip" when placed in the propane torch "Flame". I'm not sure if my "Work-Bench" could support a Vehicle, let alone getting that Vehicle in my House!!!...lol. Just havin a wee bit of Fun, that's all, but, on a more serious note, almost "All" of my KZitem Videos are not all that "LARGE", and can be Easily "Contained" on my "Work-Bench", while I make Videos for You, and the rest of the Earths "Inhabitants" (aka, People), to perhaps learn from, and maybe enjoy as well. Now then, it's time for the "Complications!"... ...although you are "Correct", with what you were saying in your comment/question, about having an Oxygen Sensor installed in the exhaust system, and probably with the Engine running when it was fully warmed up to Operating Temperature, and "Reading" the Voltage Output of this oxygen sensor, while it was (hopefully) Outputting some Voltage for us all to see on my yellow multi-meter, as the Engines "Exhaust-Gas-Oxygen-Content" is being "Read" (pronounced Red...lol) by this...almost Famous "Oxygen Sensor"...lol, has me thinking the following... ...in order to make the actual "Connection" with my yellow multi-meter's "Test Probes" to the Oxygen Sensors "Connector," while the Oxygen Sensor was "Installed" in the vehicles "Exhaust System", I would have to perform what is usually called "Back-Probing". Back-Probing, is when a Person "Sticks/Inserts" a "Pin-Like" piece of metal, much like a "Straight Pin", and, I usually use, what I like to call a "T-Pin" (and sometimes "2" T-Pins might be needed at times, one for each alligator clip), with the "T" end of the "T-Pin" being "Held/Clamped-onto" by the "Alligator-Clip" that you see on the ends of my yellow multi-meter's "Test Probes", and the "Pointy" (Sharp-Other-End!...lol), gets Inserted into the Wiring "Connector", when the Connector is "Attached" to its Other Mating Half. I would Only consider the "Back-Probing" of an Electrical Circuit, if it is deemed to be..."Absolutely Necessary"..."Especially" if I See the vehicles "ECU" (vehicles onboard Computer) in that Electrical Circuit, to prevent a "Murphy's-Law" Experience/Scenario!!! (Murphy's Law = if it can go wrong, it will...!!!). In other words, I stay away form the ECU whenever possible, to avoid "Frying" it!...(and in this case..Frying = Destroying the "Expensive" ECU!!!). Also, if a Person might be thinking, just to leave the Oxygen Sensor's Connector "Disconnected", and hooked up to the multi-meter, while the oxygen sensor is installed in the exhaust system, with the Engine "Running", would, at the very least, "Trip", and be Displaying a "Trouble-Code" or Two (aka, "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" Light, on the dash-board!!!, on "OBD-1" or, "On Board Diagnostics-1" System, or the other thing-ah-mah-bob, called an MIL, Malfunction Indicator Light). In closing, just remember, not to mess with Computer-like Gizmos (aka, Computers and related Circuitry), unless you are 100% "Sure", that You know what You are Doing, or, maybe..."POOF"...there goes some "Very Expensive" Parts, that were working "OK", until You messed-up, and "Fried/Destroyed" that perfectly good and functioning Component/Part!!!...and... ...I'm not trying to be mean or anything like that...just showing you that I "Don't" want Anyone to incur any "Un-Needed" waste, of their "Hard-Earned-Money!"... and, with that said... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@Sroor2023
5 жыл бұрын
@@RockysRoadshow wow 😄 how long Did you take to write this news paper 😉 ive jus read half of it then when i saw its so lengthy ive bypassed and wrote this 💗
@RockysRoadshow
11 жыл бұрын
...and, one of the warnings that I see quite often is, Contamination due to Silicone Vapors....This is usually caused by someone using a non-compatible type of Silicone Sealer, like the older RTV stuff, and using this stuff on any mating parts that may pass on these vapors through any air/fuel intake passage, and eventually sends it through the exhaust system, contaminating the/those oxygen sensor/sensors....A Rich running engine (carbon deposits) can mess up the oxygen sensor too....Take care
@RockysRoadshow
11 жыл бұрын
Greetings Sunil Ghorpade....Thanks for your nice comment....With all of the parts (devices) on the newer Computer controlled Engines, that do incredible amounts of reporting (sensors) and actuating (output devices), can be quite confusing, until one takes each of the components (parts) in question, and tries to understand, what they should be doing (when operating as they are intended to), and, when they malfunction (from a test perspective, that is)....I try to keep things simple....Take care
@RockysRoadshow
11 жыл бұрын
Greetings SixtyFiveDropTop....Thanks for your comment....Oxygen Sensors (like other parts), can start malfunctioning for a number of reasons....Manufacturers will usually indicate when to change your Oxygen Sensor/Sensors (milage/kilometer interval), but as I see it, that will be if everything else is working as it should....Contamination, of one sort or another can shorten the useful life of an oxygen sensor, or sensors, as the case may be...They can deteriorate over a period of time...(con't)
@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP
9 жыл бұрын
Hi, Rocky- I just wanted to say THANKS for this great informative video! To add a couple things- an O2 sensor is a Galvanic Battery- meaning the Rare Earth metals that it's made with- produce an electric current when exposed to heat _and_ oxygen. If you look at your propane torch nozzle- notice it has air holes in it, before (under) the actual burner nozzle. As the flame burns- it is drawing _air_ (with an O2 content) that makes the flame hotter & blue. That's why you noticed and remarked at 6:09 the "rich" reading on the DVM. It wasn't reading the rich "fuel" (propane) is was reading the "rich" _oxygen_. If you had some aluminum tape- you could cover these holes in the torch- and you'd see a drop in voltage- and a yellowing of the flame. Most NG, LP, Propane, and butane burners (furnace, stove, camping stove, lighter, etc) have an "air control vent" for this purpose- to make a cleaner burning and hotter flame.
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Greetings HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP....Thanks for watching, and for Your Thankful comment as well.....................................................From what I saw, as it pertains to, the Pictures/Images, of a Cross-Sectional View, of a..."Zirconia"...Type of Oxygen Sensor (that be the Type, that Produces its Own Voltage Output, as opposed to the Other Type, known as a..."Titania"...Type of oxygen sensor, that supposedly Acts, kinda like a Resistor, and Does Not Output any Voltage of its Own, but rather, shall we say, Modifies the Reference Voltage, that is being Sent by, the vehicle's On-board Computer, that could be in the neighborhood of about 5 Volts DC, from what I gathered, then, once that reference Voltage was Modified, it then got sent back to the ECU/ECM for further Processing)..........................................................From what I recall seeing, as far as a..."Zirconia"...Type of oxygen sensor is concerned, is, the, Oxygen..."I-ons"...actually..."Pass-Through"...the, shall we say...Mini-Siv-Like-Structure...and then the Magic happens, with the end result being, a...Voltage being Created...that...Varied...due to the, shall we say...Amount of Oxygen I-ons...that were able to pass-through (if You haven't seen, the Images/Pictures, on the Net, that I have, perhaps, have a look-see for Yourself, as I found it rather Interesting, to say the least)..........................................................As far as I recall, the Stoichiometric (spelling?)...Value...of that good ole..."14.7 to 1" Air/Fuel Ratio...and probably at Sea Level as well (due to the amount of oxygen found at different altitudes, and yes, I'm only at, about 200 Feet, Above Sea level, for a testing reference, if applicable), as far as I recall seeing on a Narrow Band Oxygen Sensor "Graph", was showing...".45 Volts".....................................................Any Voltage "Above" that, was commonly known as a..."Richer" Air/Fuel Ratio or Mixture (aka, more Gasoline vs Air, by weight, that is)...where-as...any Voltage "Below", that...".45 Volts"...was usually referred to as a..."Lean, or Leaner"...Air/Fuel Ratio or Mixture.....................................................That..."Comment"...that I made (as far as I recall, that is), that I was talkin' about, in this/my Video, was in reference to, the..."Propane/Ambient Air Mixture"..."Flame"..that was surrounding, the sensing end/tip, of the Oxygen Sensor, in this particular Video, that was showing, a, shall we say..."Richer"...Air/Fuel Ratio"...then I thought it should be, seeing as how...Gasoline and Propane...shouldn't be, all that, shall we say..."Far Apart"...in respect to, just how much..."Amount/Quantity"... of..."Each Type of Fuel"...needs to be..."Mixed with, the..."Same, given, Amount of Ambient Air"...to be, well, in the..."Same, Soichiometric Ball-Park"...if You will..............................................................There could be the..."Possibility"...that this particular..."Oxygen Sensor"...is..."Out of Whack" (aka, Not working correctly, in respect to, Reporting the Correct Output Voltage, for this Propane/Ambient Air Flame) Perhaps, seeing as how, I didn't have a..."Gasoline Torch/Flame"...to..."Cook the Oxygen Sensor"...In..."To Compare"..."It"... to, just sayin'.......................................................Ah yes, the good ole, shall we say..."Torch-Head"...perhaps......................................Hmmmmmmm...let's now talk, about..."Super-Sizing"...that there..."Itty-Bitty"..."Tiny-Whine-ee"..."Torch-Head"...that You happen to see in this Video of mine, shall we...???.......................................Have You ever seen or used a..."Rosebud"...or..."Tiger-Torch" (might be other Names that they go by, as well perhaps), that happen to have a..."Torch-Head"..."Orifice/Opening"...at its..."Tip"...being at least..."2 Inches in Diameter"...that was Fueled by a...4 or 5 Foot high..."Propane Tank"...???.................................................Well, I sure have, and its probably as close as I'll ever get to...Starting-Up..an..."F-18 Fighter Jet's"..."Super-Duper-Mega-Thrust-Makin'-Propulsion-Unit"...But...only, as far as a, well reduced..."SOUND"...Level is concerned, that is...and it's always a..."Thrill"...to Fire one of these..."Big Propane Torches Up"...just to well, say..."Impress Others"...with the Big..."Racket" (aka, Sound) that..."IT"...Makes...!!!...................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...One could say..."I've been there (hey, not everywhere...sheesh!...lol)....seen that (with both eyes open), and...done that too ! (just lots of things)...and...with all that, said and done, I depart with.................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@Tigrish12
9 жыл бұрын
Hey man I have quick question I have a 2007 ford f150 v8 4.6 4.6.. my engine light came on and I took it to autozone n they said it was a misfire on cylinder #8 and I changed the spark plugs and everything on it. They said it could be a bad oxygen sensor. But I have no idea which o2 sensor it is that connects to cylinder #8? The symptoms in my truck are.. it shakes a bit on stop lights it smells like gasoline when I'm at a stop or when I turn it off. Could you please tell me which o2 sensor could it be that connects to cylinder number 8. Or what could be the problem?
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
Jose Munoz Greetings Jose Munoz....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/questions as well........"Warning"...!!!..."Danger"...!!!...When-ever a Person happens to be "Smelling"..."Gasoline"...kinda like Gasoline, when in its "Raw-Form", while it is, shall we say, in a "Liquid State", or even "More Dangerous", in a "Vapor-Like-State", which by the way, will only require a very Small..."Electrical Spark"...or..."Static Electrical Charge/Spark" (aka, like the One, that a Person receives, when They happen to have Their Body, some-what "Charged-Up", with a Fair amount of "Static Electricity", and when They happen to Touch, something like a Metal Door-Knob, or its Equivalent, will usually..."Experience"...a..."Big-Zap-of-Static-Electricity"...once that..."Static Electrical Charge"...makes the...Jump...Between that..."Person's Hand or Fingers"...and that..."Metal Door-Knob"...or what-ever Metal, that, that poor Person's Hand or Finger Touches.. will usually..."Wake that Person Up...Faster than a Cup of Very Strong Coffee"...!!!), and, also, Once the Engine is at Operating Temperature, that Engine will have some "Very Hot Exhaust Manifold/s" as well...!!!...................................................Like I was just sayin'..."If" Your Pick-Em-Up-Truck's, Engine Compartment (aka, under the Hood), or just about Anywhere, In, or Around Your Pick-Em-Up-Truck, had any Gasoline, that You can actually "Smell", has the Potential to "Ignite", and start a very Unwanted, Vehicle Fire, which can cause the Total Loss of the Vehicle, and the Danger/Risk, that it imposes, on that very Vehicle's "Occupants"...!!!...(aka, People in that Vehicle).................................................First "Thing", that "Must Be Done", for "Safety Reasons", is to have Your Vehicle's..."Gasoline Leak"..."100% Fixed"...before You "Drive It Again", or, the "Consequences", might end up, being..."Lethal"...!!!................................................I'll start with, can You actually "See" a "Wet Spot", or "Dry Spot" of "Gasoline" any-where at all...as in, in the Engine Compartment, or Under the Vehicle, perhaps???.............and do You, or did You, happen to "See", a "Wet Spot" or "Dry Spot", on the Ground/Driveway, Under Your Vehicle, while it was "Parked" at all...???...................................................My first thought, would be that of, a "Gasoline Leak", and, depending on, just where that "Gasoline Leak" actually "Is" (as You didn't really say, where You thought it was Originating from), so, Let's follow the Path, shall we..............................Gas Tank, with Gasoline in it..........Electric Fuel Pump, inside the Gas Tank..............Fuel Line/Tubing/Hoses (usually Under the Vehicle) from there, usually goes to the Fuel Filter.................then on to Your Engine's, Fuel Supply Lines/Tubing/Hose/s again...............Once that "High Pressure Gasoline", Inside the Fuel Supply Line, as supplied by the Electric Fuel Pump, makes Its way, to the Engine's, Fuel Rail/Pipe/s/Hoses, that "High Fuel Pressure", gets, shall we say "Limited-To", oh, somewhere around the "60 P.S.I." (P.S.I. = Pounds Per Square Inch)...give or take, a few P.S.I. of ..."Fuel Pressure"...there-abouts (please Check Your Vehicle's, Actual "Specifications!")...by the "Fuel Pressure Regulator"...and..."Any Fuel Pressure"...that's..."Above"...what-ever...."Fuel Pressure"...that the..."Fuel Pressure Regulator is Calibrated/Set-Up" For, will then, be Sent on "Its Way", back to the Gas Tank, by way of a "Fuel Return Line/Pipe", in one form, or another.............................................Now then, once, that there..."Potentially Dangerous"...Gasoline Leak, is taken care of, we will be able to move on, but, before We do, there are a few "Other Things", that may very well, be Causing some Leaking Gasoline as well.................................Like I was Sayin', try and find out, just where...???...that "Gasoline Smell" is Coming From, and always remember..."No Smoking"...and..."No Sparks" of Any Kind...!!!................................................If indeed, that Gasoline Smell is Originating in Your Vehicle's Engine Compartment, it just might be, some of the following, at that.............................................The Fuel Lines/Hoses..Leading Up To the Engine's "Fuel Rail/Pipe/s...or...the..."Fuel Rail/Pipes/Hoses"...or, any "Connections", there-of....................Leaking "Fuel Pressure Regulator" perhaps...???.................Might even be, something along the lines of a Physically, Damaged "Fuel Injector" (One or More, of Any of the "8" of them), and, might even be those Rubber-Like..."O"-Rings (as in "Oh)", that are on each of the Fuel Injectors, that may not be Sealing, as They should be, causing a Gasoline Leak.................The Engine's, Plastic-Like..."Intake Manifold" (Plenum?) might be, Broken/Cracked, especially, where the "Fuel Injectors" get Installed in "It" perhaps...???.................................................If there is a "Fuel Pressure"..."Related Leak"...that in itself, just might cause a "Low Fuel Pressure", in Your Engine's Fuel Rail/Pipe/s, that Supply the "Fuel Injectors", which my Friend, might, make for Your Engine's "Fuel Injectors", to..."Not Be Supplying", Enough..."Gasoline Mist/Vapor"...to Your Engine's Cylinders, and usually, will result in a quite "Lean Running" (Air/Fuel Ratio) Engine, that, if "Lean" Enough, can and will, Damage Your Engine...!!!...........................................Also, once the Gasoline Leak is Diagnosed and Repaired, then, Your Engine's, High, and Dangerous..."Fuel Pressure"...should be "Checked", and that Fuel Pressure..."Must be"..."With-in"...the..."Specifications for Your Exact Vehicle and Engine"...or...it probably, just..."Won't Run all that Well, at all".............................................Also, when Your Vehicle's Computer was "Scanned for Trouble Codes", was the "Only Code Showing", the, as You were saying..."Miss-Fire on the Number "8" Cylinder"...or...were there "More Trouble Codes" at all...???............................................Now then, I kinda Doubt, that the, Hypothetical/Faulty, "Oxygen Sensor, or the Oxygen Sensors", as the case may be, would "Only", be causing the Engine's Number "8" Cylinder to "Miss-Fire"...........................................Usually, if there was a Faulty, or Miss-Behaving Oxygen Sensor/Sensors, then, that would usually "Show-Up"...as a..."Trouble Code"...on the..."OBD-2" (On-Board Diagnostics-Version-2...Vehicle's Computer, since about the Year-1996, and Newer, on a Fuel Injected, Factory, Manufactured Vehicle)..."Scanner"...or..."Scan Tool"..if You will...........................................As far as I see it, a Vehicle's "OBD-2 Computer", is able to tell You, all about, "One or More"..."Miss-Firing Cylinders"...in that very Engine, but, that..."Not So Smart"....Computer...usually..."Can't Tell You or Me"..."What's Cauzin' It".............................................The "Miss-Fire", that Your Engine's "Number 8-Cylinder" is, or was having, can be caused by, as I see it, one or more of the following............................................Might be a "Mechanical Issue", with the Number 8-Cylinder in Your Engine, such as, "Low Compression"..................A "Component or Electrical Fault", as in any number of Sensors that Sends Information to the Vehicle's Computer, or what the Computer, sends Out, as in, Output Commands, to, any and all, of the Actuators, that usually Adjust things, like the Amount of Fuel/Gasoline, that gets Injected into the Engine's Cylinders, during, any and all, Operating Conditions...........................................Then, the Computer, "Adjusts the Ignition Timing", for the Engine's Operating Conditions, and requirements as well................................................So, "Make Sure", that You find out..."ALL the Trouble Codes", if there happen to be, any more then, that "Number 8-Cylinder Miss-Fire", that is...........and.........Once that "Gasoline Leak is Fixed", the Engine's "Fuel Pressure" needs to be "Checked", and "Must Be, With-In the Specifications", for Your "Exact Vehicle and Engine"..!!!................................................Did You happen, to have a "Look-At", Your Engine's "Spark Plugs", after They were Removed from Your Engine, at all...???.......................................If You still have the Spark Plugs..."What kind of Deposits and Wear"...are on Them...???..............................................Did the..."Number 8-Spark Plug"..."Look"..."Any Different"...from the..."Other 7-Spark Plugs"...???................................................So then, once "All of the Trouble Codes" are Known, and the "Fuel Pressure gets Checked"...if You care to, You can let me know, what You found out, and, the More that I know about the Actual Engine, and Other Things, that are related To, and might be causing any Problems, for Your Pick-Em-Up-Truck, just let me know, in the Comments section, Under any of my KZitem Videos...............Good luck, and till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@JayDAnderson
10 жыл бұрын
Air fuel mix ideal (stoich) for pure gasoline is 14.7 (air to 1 of fuel by weight) but since we now burn E10 (Gasoline with 10% Ethanol) the ratio is different because Ethanol has a stoich ratio of 9.0. To compute this it is (14.7 x 0.90) + (9.0 x 0.10) = 14.13. 14.13 pasts air to E10 (by weight) may create the best fuel economy but not the best performance however. Performance burns are richer. So the stoich ratio for E10 is 14.13. . Good video. Good test I think. One think I do is pull the O2 sensors on my motorcycle and wash them by agitating them in a water bottle of Ethanol and Brake Cleaner mix. The inner surface (inside the shield) can be seen and this gets them nice an clean again. Just a thought: Avoid using any silicone sealers or gasket materials upstream from the exhaust as the sensors are damaged by silicone. Lead fuels and some metallic based octane boosters may also damage the O2 sensors.
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
Jay D. Anderson Greetings Jay D. Anderson....Thanks for taking the time, for watching, along with Your observations and information, that You posted in Your comment......................................................I, like You, have been thinkin', from time to time, about, the, shall we say..."Dilution"...of the...good ole Gasoline, with..."Ethanol"...that we are being sold these days, as Compared, to the, good ole..."100% Gasoline"..."Before"...they started..."Adding the Ethanol"...into the "Mix", and, how, it just might be Effecting, the..."Air/Fuel Ratio"...as well...................................................I actually had a..."Hands On"...Experience, with, just..."How Much Leaner" (air/fuel ratio-wise), that, that, and as they Indicate on some of the Gas Pumps around here..."May Contain Up To 10% Ethanol"...Gasoline, that started making my, Factory installed, Carter 850 CFM Thermoquad Carburetor's Air/Fuel Ratio..."Lean-Out"... at city speed, while just Cruzin' along, which caused, my 360 cubic inch, factory high performance Engine (8.5, or was it 8.4 to 1 compression ratio!...lol, but still gave me, NET, Not Gross...245 HP @ 4800 rpm & 320 Ft-Lbs of Torque @ 3600 rpm, and, maybe a few more, with the Long Tube headers, that were added, at that, and I, still only use 87 Octane gasoline!...Never Pings or Knocks, at the Factory recommended ignition timing Specs!)...well, not counting, that..."Lean Surge"...that I had to "Fix"...!!!..............................................................I came to the conclusion, that, even though, the Long Tube Headers, had somewhat "Leaned-Out" the Carburetors Air/Fuel Ratio, a bit, due to the, good ole..."Scavenging Effect"...way back when, I didn't, at that point in time, have any "Lean Surge Issues".......................................................but...then...next thing Ya know, quite a few years later, my car Started, Bucking back and forth, while just Cruzin' along at city speed.......................................................I ended up..."Increasing"...the Thermoquad carb's Primary Main Jets, using increments of, "Three thousandths of an Inch", each time, and went from .095" Up-To .104"...!!! (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, that be..."ninety-five thousandths of an Inch", all the way Up-To..."One hundred and four thousandths of an Inch, Primary Jet/s Orifice/Hole Size...!!!).................................................................That, be, an..."Increase of .009" (aka, Nine Thousandths of an Inch), just to..."Get-Rid-Of...and..."Cure"...that..."Nasty ole Lean Surge"...!!!................................................The Engine sure Liked That Primary Jet Size "Increase", cuz, It sure Runs Much Stronger now, that's for dang sure!..................................................Goes to show, well, for Me anyways, that is, just how much "Leaner, air/fuel ratio-wise", that, that Gasoline, Diluted with Ethanol, had Effected a Carburetor Equipped Engine, that, has No Computer System, what-so-ever!......................................................That..."14.7 to 1" Air/Fuel Ratio, is, as I see it, only applicable, to, like You were sayin'..."100% Gasoline" (No Ethanol in its Mix), and having, the Vehicle's Engine...Up to Operating Temperature...Light Engine Load, as in, just Cruzin' along, and, not too fast...probably at Sea Level (Atmospheric Pressure at Different Altitudes, as, with a Carburetor, it's usually Jetted "Leaner", the Higher in Altitude, that the Engine is required to Operate at) is, as far, as a Computer Controlled Vehicle is concerned, is usually called..."Closed Loop" (operation), where, the Vehicle's Computer "Does" Include the Oxygen Sensor or Sensors "Signal", in order to Calculate, and Command, the Amount of Fuel, that the Fuel Injector, or Fuel Injectors "Spray" into the Engine.....................................................Now for..."Open Loop" (operation)..........................................."Open Loop" (operation) usually happens when, the Engine's Coolant (aka, anti-freeze n water mixture) is "Below" the Coolant Temperature, that's required for "Closed Loop" (operation), and, I've seen it, for some vehicle's, being around "140 Degrees Fahrenheit"..................................................When-ever it happens to be, something like..."Pedal-to-the-Metal"...time, as in "Floor the Gas Pedal", and, the Engine Coolant "Is" at Operating Temperature, the Vehicle's Computer should go into "Open Loop", and should "Ignore" the Oxygen Sensor's Signal..cuz...due to the very High Load placed on the Engine, the Air/Fuel Ratio, should now be, oh, somewhere around, about the, "12.5 to 1" Air/Fuel Ratio, some a bit Richer, and some, maybe a bit Leaner, and maybe that's with 100% Gasoline as well (No Ethanol added to the Gasoline) perhaps.......................................................So, even though some, if not most Oxygen Sensors, these days, have a Self-Contained Heater inside of them, and, the Oxygen Sensor is, shall we say..."Ready To Go", the Vehicle's On Board Computer, will usually Only Listen to, or Use, the Oxygen Sensor's Output Signal..."If and When, the Vehicle's Computer, happens to be, "Ready" for..."Closed Loop" (operation).......................................................Also, that "14.7 to 1" Air/Fuel Ratio, as I've Learned..."Is Not"..the Air/Fuel Ratio, which will result in, the "Best Gas Mileage" Possible, as, a Gasoline Engine is quite capable of going to a "Much Leaner" Air/Fuel Ratio...!!!.....................................................Apparently, the reason, for that, now Famous, good ole..."14.7 to 1" Air/Fuel Ratio...that has been drummed into our Heads, is actually because, "They" (maybe close to bein' Rocket Scientists perhaps), "Discovered", that, when a Gasoline Engine, while under a "Light Engine Load", and, that very same Engine is "Inhaling" that "14.7 to 1" Air/Fuel Ratio...the "Combined"..."Exhaust Emissions"..."HC/Hydrocarbons...CO/Carbon Monoxide, and the NOX/Oxides of Nitrogen"..were at...Their...(combined)..."Lowest Level"...!!!......................................................Some Food for Thought...I be thinkin', if the Engine is kept "Under" the "Designated Closed Loop (coolant) Operating Temperature"...and the Gas Pedal is "Floored at All times"...and...the Vehicle in question, is..."Always going up a Very Steep Hill, to keep "Engine Load Very High"...then, as I see it, we could...."Get Rid of"...All of those..."Oxygen Sensors"...cuz...the Vehicles "Computer"...Does Not Require them, for..."Open Loop" (operation) at all...but...Damn, foiled again...cuz...now the Vehicle's "Computer", is "Storing Trouble Codes"...Sayin'...something like, perhaps..."No Response"...from, All of those "Missing"..."Oxygen Sensors"...!!!...lol................................................Depending on the particular "Type" of Oxygen Sensor, I've been reading, that, eventually, "They Do Wear-Out", and, they can last, anywhere, from about 50,000 Miles to about as high as, about 100,000 Miles, but, then again, as I see it, that would be..."IF"...the Engine, and its Management System, among other things as well, are Operating somewhat Perfectly, and We All know, what the Odds of that are!...lol..............................................Well, that's about it, for the time being....................................................Thanks again for Your Superb comment...................................................'Till next time...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@appomyo3164
8 жыл бұрын
Cadillac 3GYFNKE43A-5591626 YAS-591626 OBT II COAD P0469 AND P0134 How to repaired
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
+Appo Myo ....Greetings Appo Myo....Thanks for watching..............Now, let's see if I can help You out, with those 2 Trouble Codes that You posted here.....................Code P0469 comes up as, an...Intermittent Purge Flow Sensor Circuit...which might be almost anything, that is part of, or controlling, the shall we say, Gasoline Fumes, that are usually Stored in a Carbon Canister, until the Vehicle's On-Board Computer Determines, just when the right time is, when those Gasoline Fumes, get sent into the Engine, to be Burned...........................It appears that Your Cadillac might have some of the following parts, which may, or may not be faulty.............The Carbon (gasoline fumes) Storage Canister.......a Venting Solenoid.......a Purge Valve......and might also have a Device/Filter Unit as well.................Then, there will probably be some Hoses or Pipes, that might be made out of Metal, Rubber, or even Plastic, that might be Cracked, Split, or Disconnected possibly, which could result in a not wanted Leak........................Might even be a Bad Electrical Connection or Wire, that is causing the trouble..............Sometimes, if there is a Gasoline, or Gasoline Fumes "Leak", that's bad enough, a Person would probably be able to Smell it..............Now then, about that other Code...P0134...that comes up as a Heated Oxygen Sensor/Circuit, that might be Intermittent or No Response, and its location is Bank 1...Sensor 1....................Could be a faulty or contaminated, or worn-out Oxygen Sensor, or, the Electrical Circuit, having some not so good connections or wiring possibly........................Seeing as how I have not worked on a Vehicle like Yours, I think the best thing to tell You, is to look around on the Internet, and Search for a Cadillac "Website", that has a "Forum" on it, where You will be able to Ask Questions about Your "Exact" Vehicle, and, there are usually some Really Smart People on them, that hopefully, have had, some real Hands-On Experience, with the very same Problems, that You are now experiencing........................They should be able to tell You, things like...the Bank 1 (the V-6 Engine's...Head/Bank, and Cylinder Numbering), and where the (bank 1) Sensor 1...Oxygen Sensor is Located, in Your Exact Vehicle...hopefully............A lot of times, a "Trouble Code", is kinda like, someone pointing Their Finger, in a General Direction (in a Vehicle), and saying, the Problem is over There ------> (somewhere)...as opposed to being Pin-Point Accurate, as in, it's a Specific Part that's causing the Problem, but sometimes, Luck is on Our Side, and the Problem gets Fixed, without taking out a Bank Loan to do so...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol....................Good Luck, and I hope, all goes well, and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@scottschoemann6797
10 жыл бұрын
you are not reading rich or lean, when heating with the torch. gasoline generates a certain amount of therms based on the ratio of gasoline to oxygen, That is where it is determined when it is rich or lean. You are just heating the "thermocouple" or equivalent for those who understand how thermocouples work, inside the O2 sensor and generating a voltage output, and nothing more.
@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP
9 жыл бұрын
*Incorrect*. Look at a forklift in a factory (used indoors) they usually run on *PROPANE*. It's engine also uses an O2 sensor, to control the fuel/air ratio. To add a couple things- an O2 sensor is a Galvanic Battery- meaning the Rare Earth metals that it's made with- produce an electric current when exposed to heat _and_ oxygen. If you look at your propane torch nozzle- notice it has air holes in it, before (under) the actual burner nozzle. As the flame burns- it is drawing _air_ (with an O2 content) that makes the flame hotter & blue. That's why you noticed and remarked at 6:09 the "rich" reading on the DVM. It wasn't reading the rich "fuel" (propane) it was reading the "rich" _oxygen_. If you had some aluminum tape- you could cover these holes in the torch- and you'd see a drop in voltage- and a yellowing of the flame. Most NG, LP, Propane, and butane burners (furnace, stove, camping stove, lighter, etc) have an "air control vent" for this purpose- to make a cleaner burning and hotter flame.
@SixtyFiveDropTop
11 жыл бұрын
So when it fails, it fails completely -- it doesn't wear out slowly? (Interesting video.)
@clipofthedayyup4907
8 жыл бұрын
your test should be in flame it should read the fuel risk flame should come out at 1.0v the max of rich. out of the flame should be 0.0v no fuel. when you found 0.8 that was just a post on where there is rush fuel area greater than 0.5v = 14.7afr. hope that helps. if your getting 1.0v for that sensor it is likely good. it is when you put it in the flame and you can't get 1.0v you know it's faulty for sure. if your getting better fuel economy with a new sensor then it was on its way to completely failing.
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
Greetings...Wes Anderson..................Thanks for watching..............To me, the Narrow Band Oxygen Sensor, in this KZitem Video of mine, sure seems to be working, not all that bad (I hope), and, maybe, sometime in the future, I just might install it into the exhaust system once again, in order to see, just how well, or not, it functions/behaves........................I only put in a New Oxygen Sensor (to replace this one), cuz it had quite a few miles on it, and, I figure, by, installing a New Oxygen Sensor, it would help the Vehicle get through the Smog/Emissions Test, with that "Pass", stamp of Approval, printed on the Results paper, and maybe, with lower Emission Levels on it as well....................Now I'll add more information to Your "Other" Comment...
@sandeep4817
3 жыл бұрын
Great
@sam111880
9 жыл бұрын
or another words even if you have no o2 sensor and your car is running lean or rich a little it should still run pretty good I would imagine .... so maybe it would be more for performance vehicles
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
sam111880 Greetings sam111880....Thanks for Your comment/question...................If, an Oxygen Sensor became Faulty (not working properly), or, the Oxygen Sensor's Wiring Connector, was Disconnected, or even if, the Oxygen Sensor was Removed, from the Vehicle's exhaust system, the Vehicle's On-Board Computer, will, more then likely, be Storing a Trouble Code or two, and, there, could very well be, a Warning Light, Glowing or Flashing, on Your Dash-Board as well...!!!..............................................From what I recall, if a Computerized, Engine Management System, on some, if not most Vehicles, has become, Not Working, as Good as It Should be Working, then, there is a Possibility, that, the Computer, might start to Operate, in, what I've heard, as, Operating, in..."Limp Home Mode"...where-by, the Computer, just Uses, a, shall we say...Ball-Park/Not so Accurate...Program, that will, at least allow the Engine to Run, reasonably well enough, to get Your Vehicle Home, or, to an Automotive-Fix-Em-Up-Establishment, which-ever-is-Closest, I would assume, in order to have the Needed Repairs Done, so the Damn Engine will Run Properly Again...!!!...lol...................................When it comes to an "Air Leak", in the Exhaust System..."Before"...Any Oxygen Sensors, that will usually, really mess things up, because, the Computer, really doesn't know, where, All of that Extra Air (oxygen), is coming from...!!!.................................Just goes to show, that, Computers, at times, Aren't all that Smart after all...!!!...lol.......................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...if the Computerized Vehicle, Originally, came with, One or More Oxygen Sensors, then, that's..."What it Needs"...or, as I see it, probably be makin' for..."More Trouble"...that, You, Others, and I..."Can Do Without"...!!!...lol...................................Well.......Till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@sam111880
9 жыл бұрын
yes but what is the point of the o2 sensor doing for the ecm computer basically if you get a lean or rich reading what does the ecm do for adjustment or why is it important to keep track of lean or rich combustions does the ecm basically pwm the injectors differently to make up to get a correct mixture , you also have egr and evap in the mix to
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
sam111880 Greetings sam111880....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question/s as well.................................The On-Board Computers, in the newer (gasoline), fuel injected vehicles..."Control"...so many Things, these days.............................Basically, the Vehicle's Computer, Receives Information, from the Many "Sensors", then takes that Information, and Processes it, then, once Processed, the Computer will send out Signals, to the "Actuators", in order to make the needed Adjustments/Compensation, that the Engine Needs, in order to provide the Engine with the Correct, Air/Fuel Ratio, as well as the Correct, Ignition (spark) Timing, for any and all, of the Engine's Operating Needs, at any given time, as in, a Cold, or, Up-to-Operating Engine Temperature...a Light Throttle (gas pedal) Cruising Speed...or, even, a...Pedal to the Metal, Hard Acceleration, which, by the way, will need, Different Amounts, of Ignition Timing (advance), as well as, the Correct, Air/Fuel Ratio, as in, a Leaner, Air/Fuel Ratio (Less Gasoline, in the Air/Fuel Mixture), for, just easily Cruising along, and a Richer Air/Fuel Ratio (More gasoline, in the Air/Fuel Mixture), when Your Foot, Presses the Gas Pedal, All the Way Down...!!!...lol....................................Although, when, one or more, Oxygen Sensors, are Sending Information to the Computer, sometimes the Computer, Doesn't Use, or Listen to, the Information, that the Oxygen Sensor, or Sensors, as the case may be, Are Sending to the Computer...!!!...Say What...!!!...lol.................................Usually, when the Engine, is Cold, and also, when-ever doing a WOT/Wide Open Throttle, Hard Acceleration, the Computer, pretty much, just, shall we say..."Ignores" (doesn't use), the Information, being Sent, from the Oxygen Sensor/Sensors...!!!.......................................Now then, when the Engine, is Up-To, or, almost Up-To, Operating Temperature, and, now, We're just Cruising Along, at, not too fast of a speed, with a reasonably Light, Throttle/Gas Pedal Applied, this is where, the Computer will Use the Information, from the/those Oxygen Sensors...!!!...................................The Oxygen Sensor/s, will let the Computer Know, how Rich or Lean, the Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, actually is, and, if it's Too Rich, the Computer will Tell, the Fuel Injector/s, to Not, Spray So Much Fuel/Gasoline...and....if it's Too Lean, the Computer will Tell, the Fuel Injector/s, to Spray More Fuel/Gasoline, into the Engine's Intake System......................Also, the Computer, and, All of the Sensors and Actuators, do Their Work..."Super Quick/Many Times per Second"...like You wouldn't believe...!!!.......................For just Lightly Cruising Along, the Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, can be about 14.7 to 1...and...when doing a WOT/Wide Open Throttle Acceleration (Pedal to the Metal...lol), then, depending on, just how the Computer was Programmed, that, Much Richer, Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, might be around, about 12.5 to 1, maybe a bit Richer, or, a bit Leaner, depending on the Vehicle in question........................................If an Engine Ran, Too Rich, while just, Lightly, Cruising Along, Gasoline would be Wasted, and the Engine, might begin to Accumulate, too much, in the way of Carbon Deposits, in the Combustion Chambers (Cylinder Heads & the Top of the Pistons), and, will probably be seeing, a fair amount of Carbon Deposits, on all of the Spark Plugs as well, which is, what We Don't want......................................Now then, lettuce suppose, that, an Engine is Run, Way Too Lean, at a WOT/Wide Open Throttle, Hard Acceleration...then...repeat after me...expensive...Expensive...EXPENSIVE...!!!....Yikes...!!!...that poor Engine, just..."Destroyed Itself"...Boom...Bang...Clank....then...Silence...bye bye Engine...Hello...New or Rebuilt Engine...or maybe...bye bye Vehicle...due to the High Cost, of Fixin'-it-Up...!!!...lol.............................................So then, there's my 2-Cents on the matter, and, I hope, what You Read here, helps You out some-what.....................So then.......Till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@richardtodd4325
6 жыл бұрын
P
@عبدالقويالبندق-ظ7ث
10 жыл бұрын
شوتاثيره علئ المحرك والبيئه في حال تعطل
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
Greetings (Hello)....Thank You for watching this Oxygen Sensor Test Video of mine, and...Thank You for Your comment....I am not sure, what You meant, when You said something about some kind of Engine, the Environment, and also, something about Crashes as well....Perhaps You might be saying something about, how Engine Exhaust Gas Pollution is not so good for our Environment maybe?....The "Newer" Engines, are more able to "Reduce" Exhaust Emissions, due to having a Computer Monitored Engine Management System, along with, what is known as a "3" Way Catalytic Converter, but, only when it is working, as the Vehicle Engineers/Manufacturers Intended. Even if we were to stop using Engines that Burned Fossil Fuels, and we went back to the good ole "Horse and Buggy", then, we would still have to contend with all of that Methane Gas, that will be produced, as a result of, "All" of that Horse Manure (aka, poo poo...lol). Bottom line is... ...Technology comes with a Price... ...but... ...in the End... ..."Mother Nature" will Decide... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@abdelkaremalsaad2034
8 жыл бұрын
Dear Sir: I have blazer car 2005 and i replace the first and second qxgen sensor and still now my RPM is reach or approach to 1 what i shall do now thanks for replay.
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
+abdel karem alsaad Greetings abdel karem alsaad....Thanks for watching..................I'm not sure, by, what You were saying, when You said...RPM reaches or approaches to 1...???...........................Seeing as how You have a 2005 Blazer, then, Your Blazer should have a Computer in it, that has to be "Scanned" with a Scan Tool/Device (kinda looks like, a slightly larger, hand held Calculator), that, usually plugs into a 16 Terminal Port/Connector, that might be near, and just under, Your Blazer's Steering Wheel.................Some of the, probably Larger, Auto-Parts, Sales Businesses, might "Scan" Your Blazer's "Computer" for "Free", just make a few Phone Calls, and find out, if in fact, that, They might, just do it for Free...or...You can either Pay an Automotive Repair Shop, or, You might want to Buy Your Own "Scan Tool" perhaps...???.........................If there are any "Trouble Codes", Stored in Your Blazer's, Computer "Memory", then, those "Trouble Codes", should be able to tell You, what the Problem, or, more than 1 Problem, happens to be............................One other, very Important thing to do, is, have Your Blazer's "Fuel Pressure"..."Checked/Verified"...in order to Make Sure, that, Your Engine is getting, the "High Fuel Pressure" (might be around, about, 60 PSI/Pounds per square Inch), that Your Engine's, Fuel Injectors Need, so they will be able to Inject, the Correct Amount, of Fuel/Gasoline, into Your Engine, at all of Your Engine's Operating conditions..............................Make sure, that, You do the required Maintenance, at the Manufacturers suggested Time/Mileage/Kilometer-age Interval, in order to Prevent, any, not-wanted Problems, other then the Problems, that, can and do happen, even when a Person, does keep up with proper maintenance...........................To make Your Electric Fuel Pump, last that much longer, try to keep Your Blazer's Gas Tank, at least 1/4 Full at all times, because, the Gasoline, inside Your Blazer's Gas Tank, helps to keep, Your, inside the gas tank, Electric, High Pressure Fuel Pump..."Cool", especially, on a very Hot Day, and also, make sure, that Your Blazer, gets a "New Fuel Filter", when the Time/Mileage/Kilometer-age, becomes Due, as, I had a Fuel Filter, Plug-up, and the Fuel Pump burned out...!!!............................Make sure, that, that Very "High Fuel Pressure", is "Safely Bled"...Reduced to Zero PSI/Pounds per square Inch, Before working on any part of the Fuel System, and Wear Safety Glasses/Goggles, and have a Fire Extinguisher, near-by as well, for Safety's sake...!!!.........................Always have Fresh Air and Ventilation, around Your Blazer, when-ever the Engine is Running, because, Engine Exhaust Gas, is Deadly...!!!...............................So, have Your Blazer's Computer "Scanned" for "Trouble Codes, as well as, have the High "Fuel Pressure", Checked/Verified, to make sure, that, the Fuel Pressure, is with-in the Specifications, for Your 2005 Blazer............................If You happen to need, any more help at all, just post a Comment/Question, under any of my KZitem Videos, and I'll do, what I can, to help You out, and...................till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@noredin501
8 жыл бұрын
+abdel karem alsaad check the map sensor "clean it " and clean the throttle body too :) and let me know how that worked for you
@VndNvwYvvSvv
8 жыл бұрын
+abdel karem alsaad Clean MAP, MAF, IAT, and throttle sensors as well as any IAC (idle air control) valve. Test again. Check for vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks will allow extra oxygen in, which causes the computer to inject more fuel. This is because you don't really have a "Gas" pedal, it's really a throttle pedal which means it's an "air pedal", thus a vacuum leak acts as a partially "gas" pedal.
@cat8703
9 жыл бұрын
i did this on my sensor everything correctly but it just stays at zero when heating it up. does that mean its not working at all?
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
+Slavik Skovpen Greetings Slavic Skovpen....Thanks for watching, and, hopefully, we can figure out, why Your Oxygen Sensor, isn't showing any Response at all.........Did You Set Your Volt-Meter or Multi-Meter, to a very "Low Volts Scale/Range", as, this Zirconia, type of Oxygen Sensor, that You see in this KZitem Video of mine, will only produce, up to a Maximum, of "1 Volt"...!!!..........You can Check Your Meter, with a known Good, or New, 1.5 Volt Battery (aka...AAA...AA...C...or...D...Round Shaped...1 and 1/2 Volt Battery), to see if Your Meter will Show, about 1.5 (as in, One and One Half) Volts, to start with, just to make sure, Your Meter is working, as it should be..................Maybe, You "Did Not", get the Sensing Tip, of Your Oxygen Sensor..."Hot Enough"...with the Flame...???...as it has to be, about 600 Degrees Fahrenheit or Hotter, to make it produce a Voltage of some kind............................Oxygen Sensor Wires, are usually "Color Coded", and can have anywhere, between, as I've seen so far, from having, "One Wire" on it, to, as many as "4 Wires" on it, and, You have to make sure, that, You are making the "Correct" Connection, to the "One Wire Type", if in fact, the Body of the Oxygen Sensor, "is" the Ground, or -/Minus Connection, or, Make the Connection, to the "Exact/Correct"..."2 Different Colored Wires" (usually 2 or more Wires, coming out of the Oxygen Sensor), as the case may be.............................Faulty/Worn Out/Not Working, Oxygen Sensor maybe...???....................Then, there is "Another Type", of Oxygen Sensor, known as a "Titania" Oxygen Sensor, and it "Does Not", Output a "Voltage", like this "Zirconia" type does...!!!......................I've never had, a "Titania" Oxygen Sensor before......................I believe, that, once a "Titania", type of Oxygen Sensor, is Heated Up enough, in a Flame, that, it will be Showing a "Change" in "Resistance", which is Measured in "Ohms", on an Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter...!!!...perhaps Check, to see, just which "Type" of Oxygen Sensor, that You have there, just to be sure.................................Good Luck, in obtaining an output/response, from Your Oxygen Sensor, and...............Till Next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@sarmadthepioneer4822
9 жыл бұрын
thank you man for this inormation I want to ask you a question, how much is the O2 sensor resistance for good O2sensor working? I need to test it befor I retrofit the O2 sensor in the car thank you again
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
+Sarmad ThePioneer Greetings Sarmad ThePioneer....Thanks for watching............Now for an answer to Your question...............For a "Zirconia" type of Oxygen Sensor, like the one, that I Test, in this KZitem Video of mine, it's Not "Resistance" (as in Ohms/Resistance) that is being shown on my Yellow Multi-Meter, it's "Voltage", that gets produced by this type of Oxygen Sensor, when it gets Heated Up to, about 600 Degrees Fahrenheit or Hotter, and usually, between...0 or Zero Volts, to, usually, no more then 1 or One Volt, and, it can Vary, depending on the type of Fuel being used to do the Test, and the Amount of Air, that gets Mixed with the (testing) Fuel as well.....................As far as I know, if a Good Working Oxygen Sensor, or more then One, as the case may be, is/are installed, in a Vehicle's Exhaust System, of a Properly Operating, Computer Controlled Engine, and it has 100% Gasoline (No Ethanol/Alcohol), in its Gas Tank, then, when this particular Engine is at Operating Temperature, and just Cruising along, at not too fast of a speed, at about Sea Level, and, a not moving, light Throttle/Gas Pedal is applied, then, as I see it, this type of Oxygen Sensor, should probably be Outputting, about .45 Volts (just under 1/2 of a Volt)...and...(Lower then .45 Volts, if the Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture is "Leaner.'...and...if the Voltage is "Above" .45 Volts, then, the Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, is usually "Richer"..........That .45 Volts, usually occurs at, that well known 14.7 to 1 Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, that is commonly referred to, as being "Stoichiometric"........The "Other Type", of Oxygen Sensor (that I haven't had yet), goes by the name of "Titania"...........................The Titania, type of Oxygen Sensor, is a bit Different, in that it does Vary its "Resistance", Not Voltage, when it gets Heated Up, and I'm also thinkin', that, the Type of Fuel being used, will probably have an effect as well, perhaps.............So, there You have it, well, for now that is, and............Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@Lifenatures
9 жыл бұрын
I have 05 G35 Coupe. After I installed TestPipe, now its giving error code P1283 which indicate "Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring Bank 2" Is there someway I can fix this? possibly turn it to more rich...?When drive, it does give some type of hissy noise from exhaust or injector.. I do have UpRev Osiris Tuner, so maybe I can get it to dyno and lets them adjust the rich and lean? I feel like ma car lack of power now since it giving those code. Please help out and give some advice would truthfully appreciated and thanks in advances!
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
DaVinn Em Greetings DaVinn Em....Thanks for watching this KZitem Video of mine.............Now then, You did happen to post, quite a bit of useful Information, that, had me thinking, of the many possibilities, that might, just be causing Your..."05 G35 Coupe"...to be, somewhat..."Down on Power and Performance".............................................The very First thing, that I should "Warn" You about, is, if a Gasoline Engine, happens to be Running...Too "LEAN"...of an..."Air/Fuel Ratio"...as well as...Too Much..."Ignition Timing Advance"...Especially, when doing something like a..."Heavy Acceleration" (which places a Large Load on the Engine), then, that my Friend, is..."Not Good"...for the Engine, and, if the..."Air/Fuel Ratio"...and the..."Ignition Timing Advance"...are not, shall we say..."In the Safe Range"...then...some..."Very Expensive Engine Damage"...could become a..."Reality"...!!!..........................................Now, about that..."Hissy Noise"...that You mentioned.................When did You First start to Notice that particular "Sound"...???.........................Perhaps it might have "Started", right after the..."Test Pipe" (or Pipes?), were Installed on Your G35 Coupe...???......................................Also, were the..."Modifications/Upgrades"...done at the "Same Time", or were "They" Added in "Stages" (aka, at different times)...???..........................................That "Hissing Noise", might just be, something along the lines of an "Exhaust System Leak", and, depending on, just "Where It Is" (might be at One of the Joints, where the Test Pipe/s Connect, to the Rest of Your Car's Original Exhaust System...???)............................................................If any "Air", from the Outside "Enters the Exhaust System" (due to an Outside Leak), and "Any", of Your Vehicle's "Oxygen Sensors" are in the "Path" of that "Unwanted Outside Air", those "Oxygen Sensors" will be able to "Tell" Your Vehicle's "Computer", that, there is probably..."Too Much Oxygen in the Exhaust Gas, Coming out of the Engine's Exhaust Ports" (as in, an overly "LEAN" Condition)...but...both You and I, Know Something, that, that "Not So Smart Computer"..."Does NOT Know"...and that is...The Vehicle's "On Board Computer"...Has..."No Idea"..."What-So-Ever"...where that "Extra Oxygen" is Coming FROM...!!!...where-as..."WE DO"...!!!...well, once we actually Do "Confirm" that there Really Is, an "Exhaust System Leak"...that is...!!!...lol...........................................If there happens to be, "Any Air Leaks", weather "They" be in the "Exhaust System", or maybe "Any Vacuum Leaks", that are found, that are "Engine Related", such as, "Vacuum Leaks", caused by any "Engine Gaskets", or maybe something like a "Vacuum Hose or Pipe"...etc., then those "Items", Need to be "Fixed"...!!!............................................A Complete "Tune-Up"should be done, unless You have done so already, that is..................Things like...Spark Plugs...Air & Fuel Filters...and have Your Vehicle's...Battery & Charging System Checked-Out...etc................................................Your "Fuel Pressure" should be "Checked/Verified" as well..............................................Once the "Maintenance Details" are all taken care of, then...have Your Vehicle's "Computer and/or the UpRev Osiris Tuner" (if applicable?)..."Scanned"...for...any possible..."Trouble Codes"...as that my Friend, should be Showing, any and all "Trouble Codes", that will have to be "Taken care of", and, in order to "Fix" and "Eliminate" some of Those "Trouble Codes"..."They" might have to be..."Tuned Out"...by..."Re-Programming"...the..."Vehicle's Computer, and/or the UpRev Osiris Tuner"...as well, if need be...........................................One last thing, and that thing is..........Perhaps..."Search For"...some...Infinity G35 Coupe..."Websites"...and I'm quite sure, that, when You do happen to find the right one, that, there will be a "Forum" for Your "Exact Car", where You will be able to Ask Questions, and Get Answers to those Questions, that You have, about Your Car, and sometimes, You might even find, on some of those Website "Forums", the "Exact Same Problem" that You are now having, and perhaps, Someone on that "Forum" has "Already Fixed" that very same Problem, perhaps............................................There are, as I find, some pretty Smart People, on just about any Website "Forum" out there, and, some, if not most, of those People, will take the time, to help just about Anybody out, as long as the Subject at hand, is of a Common Interest, such as Your..."05-G35-Coupe.........Best of Luck.......Till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@Lifenatures
9 жыл бұрын
Thanks alot for drop some of those helpful advices. Yes, the hissy noise is after I installed TestPipe. And I'll be double check for the leaks somewhere there. And I been doing forum search as you said, but seem causing and happening to everyone after they installed HighFlowCatalytic converter or TestPipe. I using Osiris Tuner to disabled the error AirFuel runing lean code permanently. Which I don't think its a smart choice. The car not yet tuned on Dyno but will do it ASAP.
@rich1051414
9 жыл бұрын
+DaVinn Em I am no expert by any means, but i do know a leaking vacuum/exhaust/seals can cause all of your problems. The hissing sound, the O2 sensor reading lean, and the performance decrease, especially at high rpm, where the leaking is at its worse. I know this is a 7 month old question, but maybe it can help others if you have already solved it.
@calebhallford9062
8 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much for your videos. I am learning a lot since finding your channel. I have one question regarding this test you have showcased: How is it that in your test you are not providing any power to the sensor or meter? Does the reaction of the sensor to the flame generate its own power for the meter to read? My thinking was that a O2 sensor is supplied voltage by the computer and the metered value returned is what it analyses. Am I totally wrong?
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
+Caleb Hallford Greetings Caleb Hallford....You are welcome, and Thanks for watching................There are at least 2 Different "Types" of Oxygen Sensors, as well as, whether it's a Narrow Band, or Wide Band Oxygen Sensor, that I've heard/read about...........................The Oxygen Sensor that You see in this particular KZitem Video of mine, happens to be the..."Zirconium"..."Narrow Band"...type...........................When this "Zirconium Narrow Band" Oxygen Sensor, gets Heated Up to about 600 Degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, this Zirconium Narrow Band Oxygen Sensor, will be able to "Generate its Own Voltage Output", usually, from, just over Zero Volts to about 1 Volt...............If the Voltage, is around, about .45 Volts (just a bit less than, one half of a Volt), that will usually be, what is referred to, as Stoichiometric (spelling?), and, the Air/Fuel Ratio, should be around 14.7 to 1............If the Voltage is "Above" .45 Volts, then, the Air/Fuel Ratio will be "Richer"................If the Voltage is "Lower", than .45 Volts, then, the Air/Fuel Ratio, will be "Leaner"............The other Type (that I haven't had yet), is called a "Titanium" Oxygen Sensor, and, it "Does-Not", Generate a Voltage of its Own......................This "Titanium" type of Oxygen Sensor, is probably the Type, that You were Correct about, in that, it uses a reference Voltage (5 Volts?), that is sent from the vehicle's On-Board Computer, and, this "Titanium" type of Oxygen Sensor "Acts", much like a "Resistor", that changes its Resistance Value, based upon, the oxygen content, that's in the engine's exhaust gas, that flows by it/into it............................So, basically, as I understand it, that Reference Voltage (5 Volts?), gets Sent from the Computer, and, has to pass through the Resistance (Ohms), that Varies, inside the "Titanium" Oxygen Sensor, then, that Titanium oxygen sensor's, Ohms/Resistance, will usually, Modify/Change, the Original (Computer's 5 Volts?), into a Different "Value", then, that New/Changed Value, gets Sent back to the Computer, for further processing.....................Then, there's, the (I think) "Lambda/Wide Band", type of Oxygen Sensor as well, and, a whole different animal that one is, and, is probably, better as well........................From what I recall, if the engine's exhaust gas, is, at that Stoichiometric (spelling?) Value of 14.7 to 1, the Lambda, type of oxygen sensor, should indicate the Number 1............................Then, there are Heated, and Non-Heated Oxygen Sensors as well.....................The Non-Heated type, will probably have, only 1 Wire on it, where-as, a Heated Oxygen Sensor (internal heater), might have as many as 4 Wires on it..........................Some Vehicles, only have 1 Oxygen Sensor (single exhaust system, usually, having only 1 Cat/Catalytic Converter, and, maybe, 1 or more, Pre-Cats/mini cats/before the Main Cat)............................Then, there are Vehicles, equipped with Dual Exhaust Systems, that could have, at least, 2 Main Cats/Catalytic Converters, and might also have a few Pre-Cats/mini Cats as well, oh and, musn't forget, about, also having 4 or more Oxygen Sensors as well...Yikes...!!!...lol.............................On some Vehicle's exhaust systems, there could be an Oxygen Sensor, just "Before" the Cat, and also, 1 Oxygen Sensor, just "After" the Cat..........................The, just "After" the Cat, Oxygen Sensor, is the "Spy" (lol), that tells the Vehicle's Computer, whether or not, the Cat, is, Operating, Up-To..."Efficiency Standards" or Not, and, If-Not, a "New" Cat, or Cats, as the case may be, will have to be Installed, and maybe, some New Oxygen Sensors as well, and, just, repeat after me...expensive...Expensive...EXPENSIVE...!!!...it will probably be.................So, there You have it, well, for now that is, and.............till next time..................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
+Caleb Hallford Greetings once again....Ooops...!!!...I made a couple of Mistakes, when I posted/typed, it's a "Titanium", and also, a "Zirconium", type of Oxygen Sensor, where, I really should know better (probably not enough Coffee yet, resulting, in a lack of Awake-ed-ness...!!!...lol).........The real, and proper names are..."Zirconia"...and..."Titania"...Oxygen Sensors...(sorry about that), and till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@ralfvalcourt9187
9 жыл бұрын
NICE. Good to see someone that knows what he's talking about
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
Ralf V Greetings Ralf V....Thanks for watching, and for, that nice comment, that You posted here as well...............................Well, I sorta have a, shall we say, General Idea, as to, what's goin' on, and/or, what Should be goin' on, well, "When", "Both", the Fuel Injection (system), and Ignition (spark) Timing (Engine Management System/s) are "Behaving Themselves"..and are..."Working as They Should-be"...and are, shall we say, perhaps, Working in Harmony with "One-Another", as "Opposed-to", having One of the previously mentioned "Systems", deciding that, Hey, I don't feel like working so good anymore, and, the poor ole "Other System", has to try to, oh, might I say..."Adjust & Compensate-for"...the "Other System's", lack of, being able to "Function Properly", and Participate, at a Level of Functionality, to, more or less avoid-having, the very probable..."Tripping & Setting, of a Trouble Code or Two"...that, on a good day, (well, maybe for Some...Yikes!), will be found, "Hiding" (probably, should be sayin'..."Stored"...lol), in the Vehicle's On-Board Computer's "Memory"..........................................Once, You, Others, or I, get to the point of, actually knowing, just "What", (if any?), "Trouble Codes"...that could very well be..."Stored in the Vehicle's On-Board Computer"...then, kinda, just like..."Shure-Lock-Holmes"...we, then get to, try to, "Track that...Nasty Ole, Problem/Trouble-Maker Down"..!!! (now-z the time, I do say, "Good Luck With That").................................Before I forget, I really should mention, that..."Automotives"...just happens to be, one of...My..."Many Hobbies"...just in case, there might be a slim chance, that I might be mistaken-for, a Mechanic, that has acquired His/Her..."Certification", so, I can't say (or even see), that I have a "Framed Official Document"...hangin' on my..."Wall" (and, what rhymes with "Wall", why its...LOL...lol).........................................................................That good ole "14.7 Stochiometric (spelling?), Air/Fuel Ratio", should as I see it, be Studied/kept an Eye-On, quite Closely, as, I'm thinkin' that, when-ever we "Up" (in %), the Amount of "Ethanol" (that, usually be, Alcohol, usually derived from, something like, Corn, as in, Corn-on-the-Cob), that is "Added" into the "Gasoline Blend", in many Areas "World-Wide" (I think?), that most of Us, Expect our Engines to "Burn", in order to get some good Performance/Fuel Economy..."With-out Damaging the Engine"...then, as I found out, a while back, that, a "Carburetor Equipped Engine", having "No Computer...What-So-Ever"...that was "Fed", Gasoline, oh, I guess it was Gasoline, that had about "10% Ethanol"..Added to its..."Blend"...made my Car, start to "Lean-Surge", which just means, that, my Car would kinda Jerk, or Buck, back and forth, while just maintaining a City-Speed, of around 30 Miles per Hour/50 Kilometers per Hour, and, I had to "Re-Jet" the "Factory Installed/Calibrated"..."Primary Main Jets", from "Ninety-Five-Thousandths of an Inch"...all the way Up-To..."One Hundred and Four Thousandths of an Inch", just to get rid of that, Not so Healthy & Annoying, "Lean-Surging" Running Condition, that My Engine was having, during that time...!!!...............................You see my Friend, by me, just having that "Lean-Surging Engine", due to, as I'm convinced, that, that, 10%, maybe give or take a wee bit, of "Ethanol/Alcohol", that was "Blended into the Gasoline", that I put in the Gas Tank (back then), sure does have the Ability, to make, as I see it, just about "Any Internal Combustion, Gasoline Burnin' Engine", to start running, on the, some-what "Leaner Air/Fuel Ratio" side of things...unless, and I say Unless, the Engine's "Management System" (some-what, Including, the, Fuel Administration, the Spark Timing, any Smog/Emissions Devices/Systems present, maybe I'll even throw in some Variable Valve Timing, just for good measure, and of course, that good ole...Etc.,...lol), is, actually, "Able-To", make the, "Required Adjustments/Compensation"...for the "Gasoline/Ethanol Blend", that is to be, Combusted, inside any, of those, Engine's, Cylinders/Combustion Chambers, that happen to be, being "Fed", some Gasoline, that has "Ethanol" in its "Blend"................................I was quite fortunate, to have spent quite a bit of time, learning, tinkering, adjusting/setting-up, of a few "Carburetors", in the past, before I started messing with, a Computer Controlled/Engine Management System, along with a Fuel Injection, equipped engine, and, as I see it, once a Person, more or less, has a fairly good understanding, of How, something as, Basic & Simple, as a "Carburetor Functions", and how the Engine, can actually "Behave and Respond-to", as it only applies to, the "Gasoline Blend", that is flowing through the Fuel System/Carburetor, then, considering, what I have observed, and, maybe, some-what learned, about, as it pertains to, the "Way", in which, a "Carburetor equipped Engine", can, and usually will Behave/Respond, depending on, just..."How"...and..."With What"...(???)...the..."Gasoline...Formulation/Blend"...happens to be Made (up) Of...???...has really given me, a, shall we say..."Heads-Up"...as to, what-ever it is, that, just might be Happening, when, something like, a "Computer Controlled, Engine Management System"...Start-to, become, oh, might I say..."Not User Friendly" (I guess then, that makes "Me", the "User"...!!!...lol).........................As far as, I might know, it's probably, just "Oxygen Ions", that pass through, the shall we say "Membrane?", that is responsible for, the "Electrical Voltage Signal", that the "Zirconia", type of Oxygen Sensor "Generates", that, then, gets sent to, our good ole Friend, the Vehicle's On-Board Computer, for some much needed Processing......That alone, has me thinkin' that, Mr. Oxygen Sensor..."Hasn't a Clue"...as to..."What the Fuel/Gasoline Actually Is"..that the Fuel Injectors are "Feeding" the Engine...???.............If a Person were to Set-Up/Calibrate, the "Fuel/Gasoline Jetting", for "100% Gasoline" (No Ethanol...l!!!), for a given "Carburetor", just consider that alone, as a "Base Line" (still with me?)...Now, I drain the Vehicle's Gas Tank, and pump some "100% Ethanol" (Alcohol) into the Gas Tank........Well, put it this way, as I see it, a some-what "Ball-Park Figure" at best...for that very Same Carburetor's "Fuel/Gasoline Jetting", could very well be, about "Double" (fuel flow rate) through the Carburetor's, Fuel/Gasoline Primary Jet/s, and if so equipped, the Secondary Jets as well, and, that "Jetting Increase" alone, is, pretty much, to keep the Air/Fuel Ratio, of "100% Alcohol (Ethanol), at/in, a some-what "Safe Zone", and hopefully, avoid having the Engine..."Damaging/Destroying It-Self"...especially, while..."Under a Heavy Load"..."While Accelerating"...@..."Wide Open Throttle"..!!!.........................I helped a Guy out, with His Thermoquad Carburetor, a while back, and, he has "2-Excellent" KZitem Videos, that show, the Air/Fuel Ratios, Before and After, a very "Minor Adjustment", to the Thermoquad carburetor's, Metering Rods/Tree/Arm "Adjustment Screw"..."In Real Time"...while he is Driving his 440 Cubic Inch equipped Jensen Interceptor, and, He "Installed", and "Innovate Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge", in the Jensen Interceptors Dash-Board, that You will be able to easily & clearly see, and also, He does a Super Job, Narrating, the whole time while Driving...!!!...................Just do a KZitem Search on..."Philip Lockner"...and yes, "It" is that Good...!!!.....................I guess, that, I should let You know, that I have, I think "2" more "Oxygen Sensor" related Videos, on my KZitem Channel...RockysRoadshow...one, is where I use a "Big ole Analogue Automotive Multi-Meter", to see, if there might be, some Movement/Fluctuation, of that rather Sensitive, LARGE, Analogue Test Meter's, Needle/Pointer...???...........................The Other Oxygen Sensor Video, that I have, had me Thinkin', (back then), why not "Read the Deposits" on the Oxygen Sensor "Itself", upon the removal of it, from the exhaust system, see-ing, as How, Spark Plugs will usually have some Form/Type of Deposits, showing on them, once they have some Mileage/Kilometer-age on "Them", and are Removed from the Engine in question.............Well, there You go, I'm done...lol...well, for now that is.................Till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@clipofthedayyup4907
8 жыл бұрын
you have a reading of rich fuel in the flame as it is fuel rich. the flame is fuel and air burning. the sensor is reading 1.0v cause there is a lot of fuel. there has to be a constant source of fuel to have flame. when you pull it out of the flame there is no fuel there is heat and there is o2 but no fuel left so no flame. is this making sense no for reading of the o2 sensor being 1.0v when placed directly into the flame now?
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
Greetings Wes Anderson..........Thanks for watching.................This test, that I performed, on this Narrow Band Oxygen Sensor, with the Propane Flame, was recommended, by a very well respected, Automotive Component Parts Manufacturer, and goes something like this..............Once the Zirconia type of Oxygen Sensor, is placed in the Propane Flame, it must produce at least .8 Volts, in less that 1 minute.................Then, when the Oxygen Sensor is Removed from the Propane Flame, the Voltage, has to drop down-to, almost Zero Volts, in about 3 Seconds...in order to Pass, this so called Test, I would assume....................Some basics now............The Oxygen Sensor's, sensing end, has to be heated-up to, at least, 600 Degrees Fahrenheit, in order, for it to start functioning properly......................The Name..."Oxygen Sensor"...is a "Clue", all in itself, as that's, what it's supposed to be doing..."Sensing & Reporting"...the Oxygen Level, in the Exhaust Gas (when installed, in a vehicle's exhaust system), in the Form of a Voltage Signal...............The Narrow Band, type of Oxygen Sensor's Voltage Signal, is just that..."Narrow"...and from what I recall, it's Only "Accurate", when it's close-to, that 14.7 to 1, Stoichiometric Value, and can only tell the Computer, that, I'm, either, Too Rich or Too Lean, cuz, from what I recall, the Voltage Signal, is kinda like an (electrical) Sine Wave, going above and below, the Zero Volts Line (cross counts), and that poor ole Computer, has to Pulse the Injector/s (duty cycle, or on-time)...(and maybe adjust the ignition timing advance too...maybe...???), to try and stay, reasonably close, to that 14.7 to 1, while in Closed Loop Mode, while the engine is at operating temperature, and, while also, going easy on the Gas Pedal, at the very same time...................Someone was saying, not so long ago, that, the Voltage Level, will probably be Below 1 Volt...???...while being super Rich (air/fuel ratio/mixture-wise)................Gotta remember now, when the Temperature Drops Below, that 600 Degrees Fahrenheit, the Oxygen Sensor, probably won't be able to, do its Job Properly, if, at all....................If You happen to see Lots of black Carbon Deposits (like I have), on an Oxygen Sensor, then, You have quite the problem alright...............Might be too Much Fuel, or, a Malfunctioning Ignition System..or...maybe...Both...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol...and.........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
Greetings...Wes Anderson................When I was talking about the Oxygen Sensor's, Voltage Cross Counts, I mentioned the Zero Volts Line, but, now that I think about it, it might have been the .45 Volts Line...???...maybe...
@clipofthedayyup4907
8 жыл бұрын
I was trying to explain why when the sensor is in the flame there is mv produced. it is not due to the heat. it is due to the fuel and o2 in the flame area creates a ratio of fuel/air is different to the ambient air. the o2 sensor is able to compare this in its sampling chamber. then is able to convert to a mv to represented in a electrical signal for the ecm or a gauge. it needs heat for the sample chamber to work but that is not why it produces the electrical current. if there is not fuel to compete for space of o2 it would say air to fuel is 1:1 and produce no mv. 0.5v is suppose to be 14.7:1 and 1v would be well so e what richer than 14.7:1.
@clipofthedayyup4907
8 жыл бұрын
did this quick on a phone. please excuse any typos and reference to fuel/air when the ratio is actually air to 1 part fuel.
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
Greetings...Wes Anderson.................For the Zirconia/Narrow Band type of Oxygen Sensor, the Stoichiometric (14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio), Voltage value, should be .45 Volts (450 mv)........(here are a few examples for You)............If it's "Richer" (air/fuel ratio-wise), than Stoichiometric, then, the Voltage should be "Higher" (maybe .8 Volts/800mv) perhaps...........Then, if it's "Leaner" (air/fuel ratio-wise), then, the Voltage should be "Lower" than Stoichiometric, and might be .250 volts/250 mv perhaps....................The Heat, that I was talkin' about, was in reference to, how "Hot", the Oxygen Sensor's, Sensing End, had to be (as in, 600 Degrees Fahrenheit or hotter), just so the Oxygen Sensor could start "Working" properly, that's it, nothing more.....................These Zirconia/Narrow Band oxygen sensors, are Only, fairly Accurate, while at the Stoichiometric Point, other than that, they can Only tell the Computer, that it's either...Too Rich, or Too Lean (do an internet search for a "Graph", for a "Narrow Band" Oxygen Sensor, and see for Yourself).................Maybe, while You're at it, also search, for the "Wide Band", type of Oxygen Sensor, and a "Graph" for it as well (has different Voltage values, and might also, go by the name...Lambda), and, the "Wide Band" type of Oxygen Sensor..."is"...Super Accurate...when being compared to, a "Narrow Band", type of Oxygen Sensor...!!!...and.........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
Greetings...Wes Anderson..........Not to worry (about being Fast on Your Phone...lol)
@omarherrera1145
10 жыл бұрын
Just wondering what would be the symptoms on the truck if you don't replace the oxygen sensor? Would you loose some power due to that or is just to prevent the check engine light to come on the dash ? please let me know if you happen to know Thanks
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
Omar Herrera Greetings Omar Herrera....Thanks for watching, and for Your questions as well.................................................The "Oxygen Sensor" or "Oxygen Sensors", that are Installed, in the Car or Truck's Exhaust System, as the case may be, are "Responsible", for telling the Car or Trucks On-board "Computer", just how "Rich" or "Lean", the "Exhaust Gas" happens to be, when the Oxygen Sensor/s, are up to Operating Temperature, and, the "Computer" is in, what is known as "Closed Loop"...........................................The "Computer", usually, just uses the Information, that the "Oxygen Sensor/s" are "Sending", when the Engine is Operating at Lighter Loads, as in, just Cruising along, and are making the needed "Commands", to all of the "Actuators", in order to Maintain, an "Air/Fuel Ratio", of about 14.7 to 1, and I think, also, at "Sea Level" as well, if I'm not mistaken, that is, as Opposed to..."Ignoring" (aka, Not paying attention to) the "Oxygen Sensor/s", when the "Computer goes into, what is known as..."Open Loop", and, an example of that, is, when, You Push the Gas Pedal to the Floor...!!!...............................................An Air/Fuel "Ratio", that is "Rich", has More Gasoline, in the Air/Fuel "Mixture", then, that, of a "Lean" Air/Fuel "Ratio", which has "Less" Gasoline, in its Air/Fuel Mixture...................................................The Fuel "Injector" or "Injectors", as the case may be, work kinda like a Light Switch, as in, Switching the Light Switch On and Off, really Fast.............................................The Car or Truck's "Computer" actually "Controls" the Fuel Injector/Injectors, Turning them, On and Off Really "Fast", and when they are in, the "On" Position, the Fuel Injector "Sprays" Gasoline, in a Very Fine "Mist", that eventually "Mixes" with the "Air", then on its way, into the Engine Cylinder, it goes, to be "Burned", to make some "Power"............................................To keep things simple, let's just talk about, Only "1" Oxygen Sensor, and Only "1" Cylinder in the Engine......................................When the "Oxygen Sensor", notices, that the "Exhaust Gas", that Flows past it, is on the "Rich" Air/Fuel Ratio, or Mixture side of things, the Oxygen Sensor, then, "Tells", the Car or Truck's "Computer"...Hey...Tell the..."Fuel Injector"..."Not"...to..."Spray"...so much Gasoline...because...it's just "Wasting" Gasoline, that the Engine Does "Not" Need at the moment...!!!..........................................Then, the "Computer", shall we say..."Pulses"...the Fuel Injector, with..."Less On Time"...so, the Fuel Mixture, or Air/Fuel Ratio, then, becomes..."Leaner" then it was previously.............................................Then, if the "Oxygen Sensor"...notices, that, the Exhaust Gas happens to get...Too "Lean"...the..."Oxygen Sensor"...Tells the "Computer"...Hey...Tell the "Fuel Injector" to..."Spray"..."More Gasoline"...because...the "Air/Fuel Ratio", or "Mixture" is Too..."Lean"...and...not only, will an Overly "Lean" Air/Fuel Ratio or Mixture, have the ability, to cause the Engine to Run, not so good, but, it can also cause some very Bad, and Expensive..."Engine Damage", given the right, "Way Too Lean", Operating conditions...!!!................................................The "Light On The Dash" is telling You, that something is Wrong, and, depending on, just "What Year", and, the "Make/Manufacturer" actually is, of the Truck, and, the actual "Engine", that's Installed, will determine, on what method You will have to use, to "Extract" the "Trouble Codes", that might be "Stored"..."Inside"...Your Truck's..."Computer Memory"............................................"If" Your "Oxygen Sensor", or "Oxygen Sensors", and, almost Any "Other" Device, that is related to Managing Your Engine's Operation, is, "Not" Operating, as it, or they should be, then, even "If" the Engine seems to be Running alright, Your Engine, might be "Wasting", that, quite Expensive Gasoline, giving You "Less" Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age, then, the usually "More" Fuel Economy, that Your Engine will usually get, if the Engine is Running, like the Factory/Manufacturer designed it to do, when it was brand new...!!!.............................................Perhaps, pay close attention, as to how Your Truck's Engine is actually Running, and, Keep a close eye, on Your Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age as well, as those two, just mentioned items, are just some "Clues", to be watching out for..................................................If any "Parts" need "Changing", then, as I see it, that would be a very good thing to do...............................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@777weaponX
10 жыл бұрын
RockysRoadshow How about a brief answer? Maybe just say yes or no and explain why with main point. :D
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
Supzor Greetings Supzor...Let's see now...You are asking me, to give You a..."Brief"...Answer...???............................................"What" was the..."Actual Question"...that You want, that..."Brief Answer"...To...that You were mentioning...???.............................................When it comes to, any "Question", that "You" may have...Please, be..."More Specific"...and...Please, give as Much..."Detail"...as "You" are able to...that way...I, just might...Run-out...and...Finds-me, a..."Brief-Case"...so that...I will be able, to..."Open-Up"...that there..."Brief-Case"...and...have a..."Look-See-Inside-of-It"...and, if-in I get..."Lucky"...I just might be able to (much like a "Magician" does, when He or She, "Pulls-a-Rabbit-out-of-that-there-Hat")...be able to do...much the same thing...but...instead of..."Pullin'-a-Rabbit-out-of-a-Hat"...I'll probably be..."Pullin'-a-Document-or-Two"...out of that there (Imaginary, at this particular point in time)..."Brief-Case"...where...Hopefully (and, keepin' "Fingers Crossed")...that there..."Imaginary"..."Brief-Case"..just might..."Contain-with-in-itself"...that, or those, as the case may be..."BRIEF-Answers"...to the..."I'm-just-Not-Sure-what-His-or-Her-Actual-Question-Was"...???.......................................................When it comes to, something like...a "Vehicle's Computerized Engine (and then some) Management System"...I really can't see, having a..."BRIEF-Answer"...To...the..."Mind-Boggling-Amount-of-Information-that-the-Vehicle's-Computer-Recieves-from-all-of-the-Sensors-then-Processes-that-Information-then-Outputs/Commands-all-of-the-Vehicle's-Actuators"...!!!...................................................................Well...I guess, about the..."Only Thing"...that happens to be..."BRIEF"...here, is the, shall we say..."Lightning Speed" (You know, that "Super-Bright-Flash-of-Intense-Light-in-the Sky", known as..."Lightning?")...is, as I see it, the..."SPEED"...at which, Our Friend, the...Vehicle's On-board "Computer"..."Processes-all-of-that-Amazing-Amount-of-Information-At" (Time-wise...Eh!)...also, even "I", find it Difficult, to Comprehend, the "SPEED", at which the vehicle's Computer "Processes All of that Information At"...You know..."Splitting a Second of Time"..."Into that Many Divisions"...maybe along the lines of..."Milliseconds" (aka, "1-Millisecond", should be Equal to..."1-Thousandths-of-a-Second"...Time-wise)...perhaps......................................................The..."Last" sentance, in, this here Reply, will be quite..."BRIEF" (as You requested)...and is, as follows.............................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@777weaponX
10 жыл бұрын
WOW
@newcastleknight
10 жыл бұрын
Hi there, i was going to test my o2 sensor tonight while its still fitted in the exhaust manifold, its just a single wire sensor. I clamped the ground probe to the body of the sensor and tapped into the signal wire with the positive, then switched the ignition on, i thought id double check my multimeter was secure in the engine bay before i started the engine and thats when i noticed the the voltage was going up and down already ! it was jumping from .003 upto .187 and everywhere in between, it was all over the place. Shouldnt it just read zero with it being cold ?
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
Greetings newcastleknight....Thanks for watching this video, and for your comment/question as well....Are You ready, for my, shall we say..."Guess and By Golly"...Thought/s, on what may be causing that "Fluctuating Read-Out" on Your Multimeter???...lol....Actually, I'd be thinkin', that, what Your Multimeter, just might be "Detecting" and Showing You, on its Display/Read-out, could possibly be, an "Interaction" of sorts, as it relates to, having the "ECU" (aka, Vehicle's On Board Computer) in the "Circuit", that You are trying to "Test", which also Includes the Oxygen Sensor itself, and has me thinkin', that, that there "Fluctuating Read-out", just might be, being caused by the "ECU", Outputting/Inputting some kind of "Signal", that Your Multimeter is "Detecting"...!!! Perhaps try the following....With Your Vehicle on Level Ground...Automatic Transmission in "Park"...Parking/Emergency Brake "On"...Wheel/Tire "Chalks", as in the form of some Bricks or Lumber, to keep Your Vehicle from Rolling/Moving...then, with the Engine "OFF" and "COLD"...Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor's "Connector", and take Your "Reading" with Your Multimeter on the "Oxygen Sensor", all by itself, then, as I see it, the "Reading" should be quite Stable (aka, not Fluctuating), and, seeing as how You happen to have a "Single Wire" Oxygen Sensor there, I'm thinkin' that, it should be a "Zirconia" Type of Oxygen Sensor, and "Not" a "Titania" Type of Oxygen Sensor... The "Zirconia" Type of Oxygen Sensor "Outputs" a Voltage Signal, all by itself, when Heated-Up to about "600" Degrees Fahrenheit or Higher... ...where-as... ...the "Titania" Type of Oxygen Sensor, Operates more like a "Resistor" does, and "Does-Not" Produce a Voltage "Output" of its Own. Perhaps "Remove" Your Oxygen Sensor from Your Vehicle, and "Test" it with a Propane Torch (if You have one, that is), and once the Oxygen Sensor is Heated-Up to about "600" Degrees Fahrenheit, and if it "Is" a "Zirconia" Type of Oxygen Sensor, and it's in an Operational State, Your Multimeter should be "Displaying" about the Same "Voltage", as You see on the Multimeter in this KZitem Video of mine. When-ever an Oxygen Sensor gets "Installed", I always put some "Anti-Seize" Goop/Compound on the Oxygen Sensor's "Screw-Threads", to Prevent that Oxygen Sensor from getting "Stuck/Welded-like", making any Future "Removal" of that Oxygen Sensor, that much Easier. The "Anti-Seize" Goop/Compound that I use, looks like it has, some kind of "Copper" Particles in it, and, as I see it, these "Copper Particles", will probably Help make a better "Electrical Ground Connection", for those Oxygen Sensor "Screw-Threads", where they make Contact with the Exhaust Manifold "Screw-Threads", or, the "Bung" (aka, usually, welded-on the exhaust pipe, Steel Pipe/Tubing Collar, if You will), that also has "Screw-Threads" inside its Hole/Bore. Now about...an Oxygen Sensor's "Response Time"... ...once the Oxygen Sensor is heated-up to that Magical Temperature of about "600" Degrees Fahrenheit or higher, and the Voltage has somewhat Stabilized, then, as soon as the Propane Flame is removed from the Oxygen Sensor's "Sensing Tip", the "Voltage" Reading on the Multimeter should "Change" to a Different "Voltage Value" quite Quickly. If its "Response Time" is too "Sluggish" (Slow, like a Slug???...lol), then, as I see it, the ECU would be Held-Back from doing its Job Properly and Efficiently. The Newer Vehicles, oh, about 1996 and Newer, would probably have, what is called an "OBD-2" (On-Board Diagnostics-Version-2) Computer System Installed in it... ...and, I'm pretty sure, that, if "1" or More Oxygen Sensors in that particular system, became "Sluggish", as in "Slow Response", the "OBD-2" Computer, would/should be "Setting" a "Trouble Code", that can be "Extracted/Retrieved", with a "Scan Tool", that kinda looks like, a slightly Larger Hand held Calculator. From what some People say, the Heating of an Oxygen Sensor with a Propane Torch, can actually "Clean" the Sensing End/Tip somewhat, which might just, help make, an Oxygen Sensor, that wasn't working so good, work OK once again. If You care to, You can let me know, just "Which" Vehicle You are working on...Year?...Make?...Model?...Engine?...that way, I might be able to figure out, what might be going on. Be very Careful, when-ever You are "Tapping-Into" any Wiring or Electrical Circuit, Especially if Your Vehicle's ECU/On-Board Computer happens to be in that (Test?) Circuit, because, when things go "Wrong"...it can sometimes Result is some very...Bad...Unwanted...and sometimes...Very Expensive Damage as well...!!! If You happen to "Disconnect" Your Oxygen Sensor or Other Parts and Pieces, You might have to "Re-Set" or "Clear" Your Vehicle's ECU/Computer, of any "Trouble Codes" that were "Previously Stored"...or...might have been "Caused" by the "Disconnecting" of Any Parts or Pieces just "Recently" perhaps? Once the ECU/Computer is "Re-Set", it's usually, just a matter of driving Your Vehicle for a few Miles/Kilometers, so, the ECU/Computer can "Re-Learn" and "Store" that "Information", that will make Your Vehicle Run Properly once again. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@newcastleknight
10 жыл бұрын
RockysRoadshow Thanks for the reply ! well this is just in a long series of fault finding on my car. Its an 1987 Pontiac Trans Am GTA, which originally had a 305 TPI engine but ive not long finished swapping in a 350 TPI from the same year car. The engine has been to a shop and been regasketed, new valve stem seals, oil pump, flywheel etc, and ive put the top end back together with pretty much all new parts, and also had the memcal chip reprogrammed as ive removed the egr valve etc To cut a long story short the engine runs terribly, it feels like its only firing on about 3 cylinders, misfires, popping sputtering etc. Lately it has only been cranking over too and will not fire, So ive been testing various things to try and pinpoint the problem as ive got no error codes saved in the ECU from the short time its been running. I checked TDC and removed the distributor too to test the pickup coil which tested good (that was done using one of your other videos, thanks !) and the engine did fire up and ran, and idled but was still misfiring something rotten. Im just starting to get really annoyed with it now as most of the parts are only a couple of years old that ive reused off my 5.0 engine, and the rest are brand new
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
newcastleknight Greetings newcastleknight....As You have already found out..."Trouble-Shooting"...can at times, be quite challenging, but fear not, and by not thinking about all of the Problems that You are having with Your Engine's, not so good Running issue/s all at the same time, I found that, the best way (for me, that is), is to take "Each" System's Component/Part by "Itself", and follow that good ole "Bread Crumb Trail" (actually, in this case, the Starting and End Point, of the Fuel System or Electrical System...etc.), and if there happens to be any "Tell-Tale-Signs" (showing on any components/parts) along the way. Perhaps, we should start this so called "Trouble-Shooting" of Your Not so Happy Engine, by checking out the "No Cost" things first, then perhaps increase the Cost as we (actually You..lol) Proceed. There are times when any of Us, can and do, take things for granted, so, head back to Square One, and Check/Review the following... The "Engine" itself, has to be "Mechanically Sound", as in, Good "Compression", etc. Make Sure that, all of the "Basic" Engine "Maintenance" Requirements are "Up-To-Date", as in...Air & Fuel Filters...as New Spark Plugs & Spark Plug Wires/Leads...as New Distributor Cap & Rotor...and also, it would be a good idea, to Check for a Gasoline Smell on Your Engine Oil Checking Dipstick, seeing as how Your Engine was, shall we say..."Miss-Firing", as that alone, will sometimes have Raw Gasoline, make its way, into Your Engine's Lower Crankcase/Oil Pan area. Is Your Newly Installed Engine, a 350 Cubic Inch "Pontiac" Engine, or did You perhaps "Swap" a 350 Cubic Inch "Chevy" (aka, Chevrolet) Engine, into Your Trans Am GTA??? The reason, that I'm asking, is, from what I recall, the "Distributor Rotation" on "Pontiac's, Buick's, and Oldsmobile" Engines should/might be Rotating "Counter-Clockwise"... ...where-as... ...a "Chevy" (aka, Chevrolet) "Distributor Rotation" is, as far as I recall, is Rotating "Clockwise"...!!! The "Rotating Direction" that "I'm talkin' about, is the Distributor "Shaft/Rotor" Direction of Rotation. You might even have, without knowing, Installed a Chevy (Chevrolet) Distributor, in an Engine, that "Is Not" a "Chevy" (Chevrolet) Engine...!!! Geeze, I'm not even sure, that it's possible to do that, as I/m thinkin', that, the "Helical" Drive gear on the Distributor "Shaft", might Not "Mesh" with the "Helical" gear on the "Camshaft", due to the possibility, that, it might be a "Helical" Gear of the "Opposite Hand" (aka, Left vs Right)...!!! Then, on the "Other" Hand (lol), maybe, just maybe, Someone could have Installed a Distributor "Helical" Gear, from a Buick, Oldsmobile, or Pontiac Distributor, and installed it on the "Chevy/Chevrolet" Distributor Shaft...??? Hey, Stranger Things, have been know to happen. Also, if my memory serves me right, the Distributor "Pick-Up Coil", and maybe some other Distributor Related Parts, just might be of the "Opposite (electrical) Polarity", when comparing, the shall we say, "Stand Alone Chevy/Chevrolet" Distributor, to that of a B.O.P. (B.O.P. = Buick...Oldsmobile...&...Pontiac) Distributor/s. "Make Sure", that You have the "Exact" Distributor, and all of its "Exact" Component Parts for the "Exact Engine", that is installed in Your Car...!!! Once You are "Certain", that, You actually "Do" have the General Motors "Correct and Recommended" Distributor and related Components, then... ...Check to see, with Engine "NOT RUNNING", if Your Spark Plug "Wires/Leads" are placed "Correctly", on the "Distributor Cap"...In the Correct "Firing Order"...and, that Each Spark Plug "Wire/Lead", goes to the "Correct" Spark Plug...!!! Hmmmmm...I'll mention a bit here, but, I want "You", to "Check" the "Specifications" for Your Engine, just in case, I mess up...!!! Maybe, You already know, all about Firing Orders, the Distributor's Direction of Rotation and Cylinder Numbering, but, I'll make them "Visible" (lol), just in case! The "Firing Order" for most General Motors V-8 Engines should be...1...8...4...3...6...5...7...2. The "Locations", of those "8 Cylinders" are, while sitting in the Drivers Seat, starting at the Front of the Car, on the Left Hand Side of the Engine are...1...3...5...7... ...and... ...starting at the Front of the Car, on the Right Hand Side of the Engine are...2...4...6...8. But, here's the "Catch" (more like...Warning!)....The Distributor's "Rotating Direction", will "Dictate"..."Where"..."Each" of those Spark Plug "Wires/Leads" actually get "Placed/Installed" on Each of Your Distributor "Caps Terminals"...!!! Maybe this following "Cost" related item, is being placed a wee bit earlier than I anticipated earlier... Like they say in "Real Estate" (aka, Property, House, Condo, etc.), "Location"..."Location"..."Location"... ...but.. ...when it comes to a Car or Trucks "Fuel System", then it's...(Fuel) "Pressure"..."Pressure"..."Pressure"...!!! Fuel "Pressure", and just as important...Fuel "Volume", can make or break, an Engine's ability, to "Run" Properly, or even "Start" for that matter. Seeing as how You were saying, that You have a TBI (Throttle Body Injection) Unit, installed on top of Your Engine, a "Ball-Park"..."Fuel Pressure" for Your (I'm thinkin'...it has "2" Injectors in it) "TBI-Unit", should be about "13"-PSI (13 Pounds Per Square Inch), as "Measured" with a "Fuel Pressure Gauge", and might be taken, just before the TBI-Unit, but, please Check! Check the Fuel Pressure "Specification's" for Your TBI-Unit/Model...!!! Something like a "Clogged-Up" Fuel Filter, can "Reduce" Fuel "Pressure & Volume". As I recall, there is a little Fuel "Mesh-Like" Filter, installed on Each of Your TBI's Fuel Injectors...might be "Clogged"...??? Might even be Your TBI's "Fuel Pressure Regulator??? Perhaps the "Fuel Line", just before Your TBI Unit, has a "Fuel Test Port", much like a "Schrader Valve" (looks just like a typical Tire Air Valve), where You can Connect, a "Fuel Pressure Gauge" to??? Before You "Work On" Your Fuel Injection System..."Make Sure", that You know how to "Bleed-Off" the "Fuel Pressure", before You "Test" or "Disconnect" any "Fuel Lines", as there is some "High Pressure Fuel/Gasoline" that can Hurt You, and has the Potential to Damage Your Eyes/Eye-sight...!!! So then, Check out that "Ignition System", with the Engine "NOT RUNNING", and If that's not Your Engine's Problem. then... ...it would be a very good idea, to get Your Car's "Fuel Pressure"..."Checked", so, You "Don't Spend any more "Un-Needed" Time and/or "Money", on a Problem, that, just might, not be there. Let me know, how it's going, and, if needed, I'll see what else I can come up with. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@scottschoemann6797
10 жыл бұрын
No, your exhaust gasses are extremely hot, no matter how warm the engine itself is. The heated O2 sensors are much more stable in their output. where as the unheated need to be brought up to a stable temperature by the exhaust before a useable output can be achieved. The heated sensors bring themselves up to temp internally cutting the time required for useable readings by a substantial amount. Also of note, is they type of meter you are using. All too often a hobbyist grade meter needs to be interpreted not simply 'read' as they are not reading the proper 'RMS' value, or peak values, and will give a reading somewhere in between, For automotive use the old fashioned analog meters with sweep needle movements are very often your best bet as they will show the proper trends while a digital meter wont react fast enough to give you a true reading as the voltage (or current as the case may be) will have changed before the meter can resolve the proper display. I literally have thousands of dollars in various digital meters, and yet the one that I use most often for automotive work is an old 60 dollar analog meter that has a 1 volt 10 volt 50 volt 100 volt and 1000 scales
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
newcastleknight Greetings newcastleknight....Oooooops...!!!...lol...It kinda looks like, I made a..."Mistake"...in the First Reply to this/Your Comment, and, that Mistake was...I, messed up, with those..."3 Letters"...where You were sayin'..."TPI"...and...I, was thinkin'..."TBI"...where..."TPI", should be..."Tuned Port Injection" (I think), and..."TBI"...should be..."Throttle Body Injection"..."Yikes"...!!!...my Bad...???...lol............................While, both..."TPI"...and..."TBI"...happen to be, an Engine's, Type of..."Fuel Injection" System...and being, some-what "Different", from, One-Another, they both do, pretty much the Same Thing, but, slightly Different, from, one-another, and, I'll try to explain, some of those Differences, using a...GMC Made, "V-8 Engine"................................."TBI/Throttle Body Injection"...kinda looks, some-what, like a Carburetor does, and, usually had "2 Fuel Injectors", Mounted, on/near the Top of "it", and usually had "2 Throttle Bores/Holes" as well.....................The "2 Fuel Injectors", for the "TBI/Throttle Body Injection" Unit, should have, a Larger Outside Diameter, when Comparing Them, to the Fuel Injectors, in a "TPI/Tuned Port Injection" System..................................Now then, with a "TPI/Tuned Port Injection" System, there should be..."One Fuel Injector"...for Each of the Engine's..."Cylinders/Combustion Chambers"...pretty much meaning, a Total of..."8 Fuel Injectors"..............................These "8 Fuel Injectors", are usually Connected to a "Fuel Rail", which supplies the "High Fuel Pressure", to All of those "8 Fuel Injectors", having "4 Fuel Injectors", with Their Own "Fuel Rail", on Each side of that V-8 Engine..............................The "TBI/Throttle Body Injection" Unit, usually, just sits, on top of, what appears to be, an Intake Manifold for a Carburetor, where-as, with a "TPI/Tuned Port Injection" System, that I've seen, is, there are "Intake Runners", that look, kinda like Cast Aluminum, in some cases, having a Set of Them, on both sides of the Intake System, and, might also be equipped, with a "Mass Airflow Sensor/Throttle Body" as well..........................................Aside from the, shall we say, Physical Differences, that are readily Seen, if a Person, were to do, a Side-by-Side, Visual Comparison, of the "TBI"...vs, the..."TPI"...Fuel Injection Systems, there is "One...Major...Important...Difference"...and that is...the..."Amount of Fuel Pressure"...for..."Each of These 2 Fuel Injection Systems"...!!!................................Where, in my First reply to You, I was sayin', about the, oh..."13 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch"...there-abouts, that is needed, for a "TBI/Throttle Body Injection" Unit, is one thing, but, when it comes to, something like a "TPI/Tuned Port Injection" System, then, "Look-Out" now, cuz, I'm thinkin', that, the Required "Fuel Pressure", will now be, in the neighborhood, of about..."60 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch"...!!!..."Yikes"...!!!...oh, and, Please Check, the...Fuel Pressure..."Specifications"...for Your..."Exact"..."Fuel Injection System"...to "Avoid a Dangerous Situation", and to, have Things, work, just as "They", should be Working..........................................Be sure, that You..."Safely, Bleed-Off that High Fuel Pressure", Before Disconnecting any Fuel System related Components or Fuel Lines, etc...!!!...as that "High Fuel Pressure", as I see it, is kinda like having, a "Mini-Pressure-Washer", that can Injure, as well as Blind a Person...!!!........................The "Correct Fuel Pump", and, the "Correct, Fuel Pressure Regulator", has to be Used, for Each, "Exact, Fuel Injection System"...!!!.....................................You were sayin', that You Swapped some Parts, from Your...305/5 L to Your 350...V-8 Engine, so, now I'm thinkin' that, although the Parts for, both the 305/5L, and the 350, may Appear, to Look the same, there just might be, some..."Calibration/Specification...Differences"...Between... Those..."2 Engines"..."Parts Needs/Requirements"...so, just to be sure, I would be doing a..."Part Number Check/Cross-Reference"...for Any of the Parts & Pieces, that, were to be "Swapped", from, One Engine, to the Other Engine, to Avoid, any Un-Needed Problems, as if, there aren't enough of "Those" Already...Yikes...!!!...lol...............................Well, I guess, what, I should be sayin', about now, and that is...Maybe..."It's Better Late, then Never"...that, I actually "Spotted", my "Mistake", and, that be that...............................Did You, and, I'm hoping, that, You got Your 350 Cubic Inch-er, Running, Good & Strong by now, and, if You care to, just post a comment/question or two, and, we'll go from there, my Friend.........................Till next time..................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@appomyo3164
8 жыл бұрын
ok,thank now my car is check engine and turbo not open
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
+Appo Myo....Greetings Appo Myo....Sorry, I never had an Engine with a Turbo (Turbo-Charger) on it, to work on, but, there are a few things that I might know about them............Make Sure that You put the "Right Grade (Octane) of Gasoline" that Your "Vehicle Manual" says to, as in, having the "Right Octane Rating of Gasoline", put into Your Vehicle's Gas Tank, cuz, I was reading about Your Vehicle, and, there was, oh, less then about 1,000 of them, that were having Problems, probably because some of the Owners/Drivers of Your Same Vehicle, were using Gasoline, with "Too Low of an Octane Rating", and, by doing that, it could very well cause some rather Expensive Engine Damage...!!!.....................Usually, the Engine's "Knock Sensor" System, will Detect any Damaging Detonation or Pre-Ignition (that usually sounds like a Pinging, Rattling, or Knocking Sound), that "Should Not Be There", and, Before it starts to happen, but, from what I was reading, Your type of Vehicle's Knock Sensor System, didn't work Properly to Protect the Engine, and also, having a Turbo (Charger) on it, makes things even worse...........................Most other, Computer Controlled, Fuel Injected Engine's, Knock Sensor Systems, would "Sense" the Ping or Knock, "Before" it causes any Damage to the Engine, and also, Before we would be able to even Hear it, if Gasoline, with too Low of an Octane Rating, was used in place of, a Much Higher Octane Rating, Needed by that particular Engine.......................As for the other problem, that Your Vehicle had, here's one simple thing to be aware of......................Make Sure, that, Your "Gas Cap" is "Tightened Properly", and also, make sure, that Your Gas Cap is Working Properly as well, cuz, Your Vehicle, is not only Smart, it's really Fussy too, and in this case, I'm talkin' about any Tiny Leaks in the Fuel System, or something that isn't working properly, that could cause, the inside of the Gas Tank's, Pressure or Vacuum, to not be, as the Specifications call for..........................Like I was saying before, try to find a Cadillac Website, that has a "Forum" on it, about Your Exact Vehicle and Turbo-Charged Engine, cuz, there should be some People on those Forums, that should be able to help You out.........Good Luck, and..........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@richardtodd4325
6 жыл бұрын
Lx186
@xbgalarza8328
7 жыл бұрын
when i give gas it made noise then when it go over 35 miles go away
@RockysRoadshow
7 жыл бұрын
Greetings...BENIGNO GALARZA.............Thanks for watching.............Can You describe the "Sound" that You are hearing, as well as, what the Year...Make...Model...and what the size of Your car's Engine is, cuz, that will at least give me, a few things to go on, thanks......and till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@patrickcrouse3023
8 жыл бұрын
Guys a Dink!
@RockysRoadshow
8 жыл бұрын
Greetings...Patrick Crouse...............Well..."Sticks and Stones may Break my Bones, but Names will Never Hurt Me"...!!!...lol...oh, and, Thanks for watching, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@zazasaminava6982
10 жыл бұрын
xuinia vso eta
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
Greetings zaza saminava....Sorry, but I only understand the English Language, and, I'm not sure what You are saying?....But, I do want to Thank You, for watching this video....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@sunilghorpade1682
11 жыл бұрын
very well explained, thanks. SUNIL GHORPADE, MUMBAI , INDIA
@dieselstar5
9 жыл бұрын
Awesome job on the video. Very informative! Thank you.
@RockysRoadshow
9 жыл бұрын
dieselstar5 Greetings dieselstar5....You are Welcome, and, Thanks, for Your Great comment, and for watching as well................................You, Others, as well as myself, probably found, that, it was rather Interesting, to actually see, how the Oxygen Sensor, in this KZitem Video of mine, responded to the Oxygen content, that was present in the Propane Flame, once this particular Oxygen Sensor, was heated up-to, that, some-what, Minimum, Magic Temperature, of about 600 Degrees Fahrenheit, where this Oxygen Sensor, probably started to Produce a Voltage of its Own, as is shown on my, Yellow, Automotive Specific, Volt-Meter/Multi-Meter in this Video...................................Seeing as how, You kinda liked this particular..."Oxygen Sensor Test (ing)"...KZitem Video of mine, I also have..."2" Other..."Oxygen Sensor"...Videos on my KZitem Channel...RockysRoadshow...one of which, is pretty much, the same Test as this one, but, I used my other, Automotive specific, Analogue, Testing Multi-Meter, that has a Very "LARGE", Meter Face on it, with a Big/Long, Indicating, Needle/Pointer, that "Waves" at You, if there happens to be, something being Tested, that will make it "Re-Act/Move"...!!!...lol.................................Some time ago, Someone, was saying, as I recall, in a comment, that, an "Analogue", type of "Multi-Meter" (You know, the One/Type, having that Waving, Needle/Pointer on it...lol), should be "Displaying", what is referred to, as..."Cross-Counts"...where, as I see it, is a some-what "Fluctuating Voltage Signal", that this type of Oxygen Sensor, might be Producing, that, just might cause, my, Very LARGE, Analogue, Multi-Meter's..."Needle/Pointer"...to start "Waving" at all of Us...???...well, You'll just have to See the "Results", for Yourself, in that KZitem Video of mine, if You care to, that is..........................................The "Other", Oxygen Sensor Video, that's on my KZitem Channel, is something, that I got to Thinkin' about, a while ago, as it concerns, the..."Deposits"...that might be..."Coating"...the..."Sensing, End/Tip"...of the Oxygen Sensor, that the Engine's, Exhaust Gas, might be Leaving, Deposit-wise, on the Oxygen Sensor's, End/Tip, and, as I was seeing it, it's kinda, some-what, like, the "Deposits", that might be found, on the Electrodes & Inner Porcelain, of, a Set of "Spark Plugs", in any given Gasoline Engine, that has a fair amount of Mileage/Kilometer-age, accumulated on "Them" ("Them", be-in Spark Plugs, that is)...lol......................................I have about 88 Videos, at this time, most of which, are Automotive related, so, feel free, to have a Look-See, at them, if You so choose, and, if You happen to have any questions or concerns at all, just post a Comment/Question or Two, and I'll do what I can to help You out..................................Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@hhohybridbuilder1339
10 жыл бұрын
What will happen if I then feed a steady DC volts of .45 to the input? Will the computer makes the injectors to inject a 14.7 to 1 ratio to the combustion chamber? But first of all thanks for posting this very educating video. I do now fully understand the operations of an O2 sensor.
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
Greetings HHOhybridBuilder....You are welcome, and, I'm glad to be of help, as well as, Thanks for your comment, and the very interesting questions that sound to be, well, possible, but, I "DON'T Recommend or Approve", that a Person actually tries, what Your, shall we say "Theory", is suggesting on doing....The reason being, that, some very Intelligent Electrical Engineering Folks, actually "Developed and Designed" the Electrical "Circuitry", that, by the way, in the Newer Vehicles these days, has become somewhat "Future-istic", as compared to the "Older" Vehicles, that had Carburetors sitting On-Top of their Engines....Yeah, I know, maybe too much "Fancy-Schmancy" Talk (lol) so far, so, I'll do what I can, to entertain, Your, may I say, "Theory", on, how to Fool the ECU (aka, vehicles On-board Computer), into "Thinking" that an actual "O2" (aka, oxygen sensor) is sending that Magic "Voltage" to "It" ("It" = ECU or, Vehicles Computer). First off, there are, as far as I have seen, "2" Types of Oxygen Sensors, and, the one that You see in this video of mine, happens to be "Zirconia" Narrow Band oxygen sensor, and, usually has the "Fluted Cover" on the business end of the O2-Sensor (O2-Sensor = Oxygen Sensor), and converts the measured Oxygen in the Exhaust Gas to a Voltage...from "Zero" Volts (when cold), to as high as about "1" Volt, when the Oxygen Sensor is at Operating Temperature, and, for some strange (and perhaps, misbehaving) reason, the Fuel Injection System is Supplying "Way Too Much" Fuel, resulting in a "Super Rich" Air/Fuel Ratio!... ...where-as, the "Other" Type of Oxygen, as far as I know, is called a "Titania" Oxygen Sensor. This "Titania" type of Oxygen Sensor, is a "Horse-of-a-different-color", in that, it "Does-Not" produce a Voltage of its own! It works (as I see it), more like a "Resistor". This "Titania" oxygen sensor, provides a "Resistance", that can be measured with an Ohm Meter (or a multimeter, that has an Ohm Scale on it), when heated, like I heated the "Other" Type of Oxygen Sensor in this Video of mine. From what I recall, the "Ohm's" Reading, while taken on a "Titania" Oxygen Sensor, while heated up in a Propane flame, should be showing an "Ohm-Reading" that (as I see it), on my yellow multi-meter's "Lowest Range", that, by the way is, from "0" to no more then "200" Ohm's. Sorry, I can't even give you a "Ball Park" figure on the Ohm's Reading of a Heated-Up "Titania" Oxygen Sensor, due to the fact, that..."I've Never had One in Custody!"...lol. Apparently, the ECU sends a "Reference" Voltage, of about "5-Volts" (I think?) to the "Titania" oxygen sensor, and, the "Titania" oxygen sensor Takes this 5 Volt Reference Signal from the ECU and sends it Through the "Titania" oxygen sensors "Internal Resistance", and due to the encountered Resistance of this type of oxygen sensor, that ECU's Original "5-Volts" gets changed into a "Different" Voltage, then the so called "Modified" Voltage, gets "Sent Back" to the ECU, for some much needed "Processing". See, sometimes things "Are-Not" all that simple, especially when, the "Deeper" You Dig!"...lol. There can be anywhere from "1" Oxygen Sensor per Vehicle, to as many as "4", or More (perhaps) per Vehicle!!! No, I didn't forget... ...about Your "Theoretical"...".45" Volts! Just remember, ECU's, (Vehicles Computer), and many other Electronic and Electrical Gizmos, Parts and Pieces, are usually "Very Expensive", so, before a Person even Contemplates, doing anything what-so-ever, that "Is Not" in accordance with the "Vehicle Manufacturer's Recommendations", is, as I see it, a "BIG-No-No!!!" But, we can always "Theorize", as long as we "Don't Actually", put these, so called Theories, into "Real-World" Practice! Now then, Lettuce (intentional miss-spelling) begin, shall we? Hypothetically speaking, if, a ".45-Volt" Signal was sent to the ECU, and, the ECU "Does Not" spit out a bunch of "Trouble Codes", and, every other Parameter was Correct, then, perhaps, it may be possible that that good ole "14.7 to 1" Air/Fuel Ratio, just might be able to be attained...BUT... ...there are Way Too Many "OTHER" Variables to consider as well...!!! To have any Vehicle's Engine Management System's (and other things as well) ECU, administer the "Commands" Necessary to sustain the "14.7 to 1" Air/Fuel Ratio, that You suggest, is dependent on "Many" Factors! Generally speaking, about the "Only" Time, that an ECU Controlled Vehicle will Keep its "Air/Fuel Ratio" at the suggested "14.7 to 1", will be, as I see it, when the vehicle in question, is at "Operating Temperature", and, At Engine "Idle Speed", or, at a, "Light Throttle (aka, gas pedal) Cruising Speed", and perhaps, when the Vehicle is at about "Sea Level" as well. You see my Friend, when a vehicle's Engine is "Cold", it Requires a Much "Richer" Air/Fuel Ratio (might be "12.5 to 1", or maybe even Richer)... ...and... ...if You happen to "Accelerate", with the "Pedal to the Metal", it requires an "Air/Fuel" Ratio, in around the "12.5 to 1" Air/Fuel Ratio Range! Ignition Timing, is another "Really Involved Subject", and it has to "Compliment" the "Air/Fuel" Ratio, in order to have..."Maximum Power", and, "Maximum Gas Mile-age/Kilometer-age (aka, fuel economy), as well as, "Not Destroying" Your Engine, while trying to do so...!!! Well then...That's all for now Folks... ...Till next time... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@hhohybridbuilder1339
10 жыл бұрын
RockysRoadshow Thank you Rocky,
@RockysRoadshow
10 жыл бұрын
HHOhybridBuilder Greetings HHOhybridBuilder....You're welcome, and, Thanks for watching and commenting on this Oxygen Sensor Testing video of mine....Given, that, part of Your Name, being, "hybrid Builder", has me thinking, that You just might be, trying to "Optimize", the, perhaps, "Fossil Fuel Burning" (aka, Gasoline?) Engine part of a "Hybrid Vehicle" for "Fuel Economy" reasons, has led me to Warn You, of possible "Engine Damage", and the associated "Not Wanted, Money Loss!"....What I'm trying to get You to avoid, is the possibility of running an Engine "Too Lean", as in, Too Lean of an "Air/Fuel Ratio", Especially, when the Engine in question, is being operated at an "Aggressive Acceleration" (aka, pedal to the metal!), and under a "High Load", as, having a "Too Lean" (usually Higher then about a 12.5 to 1 Air/Fuel Ratio for 100% Gasoline), has been known to "Destroy" Engines, to the point of being "Non-Repairable!". If the above, happens to apply in Your case, then, perhaps, consider the following, although, these things that I'm about to mention, are just a small list, of the very "Many" Variables that are usually involved, with the, shall we say..."Health of an Engine"... Make sure that You are using the "Correct" Spark Plug "Heat Range", as a "Too High" Heat Range, can cause Engine "Damage" as well. Pay very "Close Attention" to the "Ignition Timing" (in Degrees), at any given Engine RPM (Revolutions Per Minute), and, the Engine's "Load Conditions" (aka, Heavy Acceleration, or, just plain Light Cruising, at, not too fast of a speed). Gasoline "Octane" Rating, plays a very Important part, Especially, when a "High Compression" Engine is being used! Just a thought... ...I'm thinking, that, setting up an Engine for both "Power" and "Fuel Economy", can somewhat be compared to, that of a Choreographer, Band Leader, Sports Team Coach, etc...as, Each and Every "Person" or "Component Part", has to be able to, "Perform" His/Hers, or Its "Individual Duty" Flawlessly, to make the "Performance" (or Economy), a... ..."Standing Ovation Success!!!"...(and, I'm trying my best, not to...lol). So then... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@scottschoemann6797
10 жыл бұрын
RockysRoadshow Regardless of what type of sensor used, feeding a false signal to the ecu can cause some significant issues to result based on external conditions. Carbureted engines operated based on a group of compromises, the most significant was barometric pressure, which resulted in shorter engine life as the result of often too lean or too rich conditions. Since we have "mastered" the sensor controlled computer operated fuel injection system, we have seen small engines literally double and triple their lifespans, primarily by not destroying the piston rings due to excessive fuel delivery. We have to remember, there are times that the 14.7 to 1 ratio is NOT ideal, such as when starting a vehicle, warming it up (remember, there are no longer chokes involved, that alter the air/fuel ratios on cold engines), when the load on the engine is suddenly increased without regard to engine speed, such as the air conditioning compressor kicking in. And then all of these conditions need to be corrected when the external cause changes, or is over come, such as the vehicle maintaining speed even though the AC remains running, or the torque converter is locked up to maintain fuel economy, even though unlocked would develop more torque. A static voltage would prevent the engine from working to over come these everyday situations the daily driver deals with seamlessly, without even knowing they are going on. Were the vehicle just driven in one set of circumstances, such as on a dirt track you could dial in that voltage. But not on the road. On the road a dynamic (changing) value is necessary to keep everything in balance for the drivability, life of the engine, maximum power without shortening the life of the driveline, and maximum fuel efficiency. But even at that we are still dealing with compromises in the engine design, as the vehicle has to be able to be reliable at speeds between zero to 65 MPH. Of course what this neglects is the vehicle must also have enough power for sufficient acceleration with a maximum passenger/cargo load to get out of the way of dangerous situations that are not typically seen, so that 65 mph suddenly turns into 90 + MPH, so we have a very broad power range we need to deal with. so this brings us back to the need for the dynamic value required. And this value is not static. The more throttle you use, the hotter the exhaust gas gets. hence a different voltage is generated and the computer changes how much fuel is supplied to maintain the 14 to 1 ratio. As you can see the single voltage is only good for one set of circumstances
@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP
9 жыл бұрын
No. Because of the nature of a reciprocating engine- there is a _slight_ "pulse" in the intake manifold vacuum. Idle, WOT, and everything in between- requires a different duty cycle (dwell) of the injectors to match load. A steady voltage going to the ECM would probably just idle the engine- with no room for advancement.
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