The best video I've seen on this subject... The world needs more tradesmen like you.
@matthewlong1199
5 ай бұрын
There’s unfortunately not many videos detailing how to install wood siding that I found, but there are many for cement. Thanks for posting. This is going to help me a lot when I replace the wood siding on my 1930s garage.
@enduringcharm
5 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@GregorHardy
21 күн бұрын
Most thorough video on the subject I have seen! I have clapboard siding as well. ;-)
@fiercegirldesign1
Жыл бұрын
I agree with you: love cedar wood siding. Unfortunately I watched this video about 5 years too late. We installed Typar behind our cedar siding. While it’s not the Tyvak brand you mentioned, I assume it probably has a similar makeup and may cause us issues in the future. I also didn’t realize I needed to paint cut ends and flash behind joints 😬. Our one saving grace is our house is a modified a-frame and has about a 2 foot overhang that offers a lot of protection. I always appreciate your expert advice. Thanks for sharing your decades worth of experience with us.
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
Large overhangs can indeed make a big difference in the longevity of siding and trim. Just keep an eye on your siding and look for paint failure in a single section or area, which would be a clue about the housewrap issue. It isn't ALWAYS a problem, but when it happens the degradation underneath can be pretty dramatic.
@dustbat
Жыл бұрын
Great video. Hard to get contractors to do all that stuff. Most seem to think paint is evil if they must apply it before install. Enjoyed this whole video.
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
You're quite right--while some of these techniques used to be routine, now the knowledge seems to be fading. Carpenters don't want to get involved with painting, and their work tends to be about speed rather than quality. But, a job worth doing is worth doing right!
@dustbat
Жыл бұрын
@@enduringcharm I recently had two dormas rebuilt. Lucky to fine the rare breed,the guy who cares. Primed and painted every thing before it went up. Put metal flashing behind the area where side boards met front up right unit. We did use pvc where we could but sides are wood and on an angle, not straight which he said is a bit of a problem as to the water flow, but said it is beautify.
@johnspanos3862
Жыл бұрын
Firstly, let me say thank you for sharing your knowledge. I always smile when I click on an instructional video on youtube and hear confidence and experience in the voice of the person doing the video. We just bought a 1980 colonial in Connecticut, and the siding is definitely wood. The siding has a lot of areas of cupping, and just overall hasn't been maintained well in the last 40+ years and my plan is to reside the whole house. I'm not sure if the current siding is cedar, but if I had to guess it's probably pine given these houses were "built to code" and I can't imagine they opted to pay a premium for cedar. I had planned on sourcing my lap siding from either a lumberyard, or even home depot sells 16ft. oil primed pine lap siding for a hell of a deal! I was hoping you could share your thoughts on wether or not it would be acceptable/advisable to use pine instead of cedar since the house is going to be painted anyway? I also wonder if I could use a Tykev style house wrap under pine without worry of rotting, as you mentioned happens with cedar? Thank you so much for your video, and your advice. Keep up the great work and stay well.
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
There's actually a lot to unpack here. You don't mention your area of the country, but in most areas if you had wood siding installed in the 1980s it was cedar or possibly redwood. It's not impossible that it would be pine, but it's unlikely unless you live in an area where there is a lumber industry presence and they were pushing it locally. In the northeast where I live I only see pine clapboard siding on survivor houses going back to the 1700s and 1800s. The second thing to unpack is the quality of wood. Whatever you've heard or think you know about the durability of wood species is probably not true anymore. All wood of any species today is of poor quality, unless you are buying from a boutique local sawmill which specializes in finding and cutting vintage logs or resawing old lumber. The rot resistance of cedar or mahogany isn't a thing anymore. That was true when cedar was cut from the center of old growth logs where certain chemicals naturally concentrated and it was true when the mahogany you purchased was not a look-alike species without the actual benefits. I've ripped up miles of rotted cedar and mahogany. When you bought pine in the past it was eastern white pine or longleaf pine if you were buying pine flooring. Today you are likely to see "radiata" pine or several species from Australia or South America. In all cases, though, the pine is poor quality with wide set growth rings and case hardening from improper kiln drying. It's garbage. So what should you do if you want wood clapboard siding? The best bet is still going to be cedar, not because it is rot resistant but because it is lightweight and relatively stable. Unless you pay with an arm or a leg it will be fingerjointed. I don't like it, but that's often all I can buy. If you can find solid cedar it will cost a fortune and may not be that great anyway. If you follow the tips in my video you can still get long life out of cedar, fingerjointed siding, but you need to be meticulous about installation and painting. If you are considering buying pine siding, instead just take your wallet and throw it in the street where it will do more good. Another option is to forget wood and go with hardiplank or a similar fiber cement siding. It's a good product and will hold up well if installed and painted properly. It's not quite the same as wood, but it won't rot and it takes paint well.
@LogHewer
3 ай бұрын
@enduringcharm I've had this exact conversation, almost verbatim...I saw cypress lumber at a sawmill for my living. We routinely cut trees in the 100-150 year-old range, but even these logs don't contain nearly the same amount of heartwood as the larger virgin growth did, and the heartwood it does contain isn't nearly as dark or rot-resistant. We have to ship sapwood boards mixed with the heart boards, too. I often wonder why anyone will spend the $4-$7 per square foot for modern cypress bevel siding when it will hardly last longer than pine. 🤦 But they do. Just burning money by the handful.
@AncoraImparoPiper
3 ай бұрын
Absolutely invaluable information. I've got an old house with clapboard ( here in Australia we call it weatherboard) and I am restoring it slowly. Thank you for sharing. Greatly appreciated. I will have to come back to this video often to refresh my memory as I progress with my restoration project. Totally agree with the need to do a final finger touch up with the caulk. It looks better and does push more caulk into the crack than a gun does based on my experience.
@DinainOH
10 ай бұрын
You are my kind of guy! Do it right the first time even though it might take longer. I just saw a house for sale this weekend that is very cute but noticed some bubbling up of paint on the rear of the house. I examined further and discovered the house still has wood clapboard and not the vinyl siding most homes have now. Not sure it is something I'd want to purchase and could be more under the surface you don't know about adding more $$$ to the purchase.
@enduringcharm
10 ай бұрын
It can be difficult to judge potential problems in that scenario, because the current owners may have just painted for the sale and covered up existing issues. If you look closely you may be able to judge how well or how recently it was painted, and look to see if any bubbling is localized to a small area or covers the whole house. One huge advantage of wood clapboard siding is that it is repairable. If a small section or even one board is damaged or has some other flaw, it can be removed and replaced.
@Mopardude
Жыл бұрын
Good Tips! I have never seen flashing behind joints on repair work I have done in the past but I am totally going to copy that peel and stick flashing tip for any repair work going forward. I have always just tried to copy how it originally was built but seems like cheap insurance to just use the peel and stick too.
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
Yeah, the flashing is something I do regardless if it is a repair or new work. It won't help if the original siding didn't have it, but at least my repair will hold up!
@rickfarber4243
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for another super video. You're very generous with your knowledge.
@johnschley5975
7 ай бұрын
I have an old home I'm completely residing. This is an old house and there is no sheathing or insulation behind the siding. I've heard mixed reviews on weather to add sheathing and wall insulation. I'm in Georgia so harsh winters are not a problem but it is warm in the summer. Your thoughts appreciated.
@enduringcharm
7 ай бұрын
I've faced this issue many times with houses from the 18th century, especially. Often the decision comes down to money and circumstances. Houses with post and beam frames can be especially challenging. Newer houses with balloon framing or some form of stud framing aren't quite as bad. Plywood sheathing comes in 4x8 sheets, and a post and beam frame may require additional framing in order to find something to attach the plywood. Other factors include the possibility of disturbing or cracking interior plaster, the need to retrim windows and doors on the exterior due to the additional thickness, and the possibility that adding insulation will cause condensation problems in a home that for decades has been allowed to "breathe." As a general rule I am in favor of adding both insulation and sheathing if you can do at least one entire wall and there will be no loss of historical trim. I have used 3/8" plywood on occasion when I'm really fighting a thickness problem. For insulation I will generally use fiberglass NOT spray foam. I like to use tar paper or "felt" rather than Tyvec or the like. I typically need to retrim the wall corners at a minimum, and often the windows and doors too. A nail gun helps minimize plaster damage when installing the sheathing. If you have the money and the right circumstances, adding insulation and sheathing will result in a quieter house, better control of interior temperature, and longer lasting siding. As a bonus, you can fix electrical and plumbing problems when the interior wall cavity is exposed. See this example: enduringcharm.com/gallery/exterior-repair.html
@wills4544
Жыл бұрын
Like this: "A job worth doing is worth doing right!" 👍🙏
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
I say this all the time and by now my adult kids will use it against me if I ever feel lazy!
@batbawls
Жыл бұрын
Thank you for sharing your years of valuable experience!
@Sparisland
7 күн бұрын
A super helpful video would be how to cut, prime, paint, etc. clapboard for a diverter/kick-out flashing on a rake wall for those of us on the coast who still want real wood siding.
@enduringcharm
6 күн бұрын
This is a great question. I wish I had a great answer! The diverter is now building code, but they can be very difficult to detail and also ugly. I have struggled myself to make them look unobtrusive while still being effective, and it can be tricky to cut clapboard siding around them. What I typically do when repairing siding on the side wall is to install the kickout where I think it needs to be, use self adhesive flashing over the top of the diverter so water can't get behind it, and then carefully install the clapboards over that. I keep the clapboard edges fairly high off the base of the diverter since water will be flowing there during rain. The color of the diverter is also important. I may choose black to match the shingles, or I may paint it the same color as the siding. But, none of this is simple or easy.
@Sparisland
2 күн бұрын
@@enduringcharm Have you tried Azek Lap siding? I'm thinking of replacing the clappers on the south side with them. Price seem reasonable.
@enduringcharm
Күн бұрын
I have not used Azek siding. You should be wary of thermal expansion and the need for specialized paints, especially with a southern exposure. If you live in an area of hot summers and cold winters, especially, you might find these properties to be a problem.
@briang5307
Жыл бұрын
Great tips - especially the one regarding additional coat of primer. Do you roll and brush it out or just brush? Thanks again for all the great content.
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
For the priming the back side it's fine to use a roller. You can make a production line out of it pretty easily if you have a place to store the boards for 30 minutes while the primer dries. Sometimes I'll take two extension ladders and lay them on the ground to create crude sawhorses on which to lay the boards as they dry.
@Genologic
3 ай бұрын
Have you ever seen installations of wood siding where an air gap was left between the sheathing and siding? I know felt paper leaves a small gap but I’m wondering if there’s a technique where a larger gap can remain. Similar to vinyl siding. This would help the back side dry out better and imitate the pre-insulation era wood homes that last a lifetime.
@enduringcharm
3 ай бұрын
There are commercial products to create such a gap and ways of doing it yourself with strapping. That said, I don't think the additional cost and effort is worth it IF the rest of the things I mentioned are followed. In other words, if the siding is well back primed, well painted, and the seams are sealed, etc., then it just isn't necessary. I would feel differently if the clapboard siding is left natural, or stained with a transparent stain, or if there is a known problem with moisture in the structure due to unique circumstances.
@traceyszurley9711
Жыл бұрын
We have a 130 year old house that doesn't have sheathing. As I pull the old siding down, do I need to add sheathing? Or is there something else I should know? Previous owners didn't take care of the house, so I think the siding is too far gone.
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
That's a great question, and one that I have confronted many times when working on older houses from the 1700s and 1800s. Back in those days it was pretty common to install clapboard siding right onto the studs or timbers without any sheathing, and certainly without any kind of air barrier. Sometimes the stud bays would be empty, sometimes they would be filled with mud and straw, or bricks, or whatever else was on hand at the time. So when you go to replace the siding today, you are faced with a choice. If possible, it is worth installing sheathing and a barrier like "tar" paper or felt. Sheathing stabilizes the structure by preventing racking and movement, and the building felt acts as an air barrier and protection in the event of water infiltration. However, there are a few sticky wickets. First, the sheathing will add thickness to the wall, typically half an inch. For this reason, you really need to do at least an entire wall at once so that the thickness matches and the siding can be applied on one plane. And, when you add this thickness you may also need to adjust or replace the trim around windows, doors and corners. You may need to either shim out doors and windows or else build custom trim with a rabbet which meets the window and door jambs while overlapping the new sheathing. It can also be necessary to add framing members as nailers for the sheathing, since the original framing may not be set up with the right spacing for plywood. Or, you may have a lot of waste for the same reason. Of course, while the stud bays are open to the outside, that is also your chance to add insulation. All of these things take time and cost money. I have had situations where a homeowner just does not have the budget to add sheathing and deal with all of these details, but the siding must be replaced due to damage or decay. Or, the work to add sheathing would also mean destroying historical trim details that could not be easily replaced. In that case there is a fall-back position. You can skip the sheathing but add a 30 pound felt over the studs or timbers. This will at least add some protection for water infiltration and act as an air barrier. The felt adds little appreciable thickness. Another trick I have used is to apply a 3/8 inch plywood instead of 1/2 inch, which may be enough to help with the details I mentioned above. So, yes, sheathing, tar paper and insulation would be great if you can afford it. If the budget isn't there try to at least use the 30 pound felt.
@johnspanos3862
Жыл бұрын
I notice you mention no gap between laps. How do you handle draining of moisture that gets behind the boards? I assume so long as its not caulked and has a slight gap, that's fine? The guy who painted our house tried to seal a lot of the gaps between laps with paint. What is your opinion on a rain screen? Necessary? Thanks!
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
If you back prime there really isn't a reason for a rainscreen. The bottom edge of the clapboard should be tight against the top of the row below. If you install the siding, trim and flashing correctly there should be no water or moisture getting underneath the siding from the exterior. Some humidity or moist air may migrate from the inside of the house to the outside under certain conditions, but that is minimal and can happen slowly. There should be nothing behind the siding which needs to drain, put it that way!
@shock80ey
4 ай бұрын
Thanks man, great video.
@nrehberg
Жыл бұрын
I didn’t know about the tyvek behind cedar issue. Does the same hood true for typar? Also, you mentioned redwood in your video, are you lumber yards still selling redwood beveled siding? I’ve never seen it for sale in the Midwest, but I have 80 year old redwood on my house that looks like it was installed last year.
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
I would assume Typar has a similar issue with cedar as Tyvek, but I haven't seen it personally. Just keep an eye out if you have this installed. It doesn't always cause a problem, but when it does you'll start to see failing paint and even rot coming through the boards. As for redwood, it's pretty rare here in the northeast where I am. Hell, even finding cedar clapboards can be problem nowadays! It seems to be more common in the west, since that's where the redwood grows.
@kueichenglee7583
2 ай бұрын
Thank you 3:55
@noreensiomos233
4 ай бұрын
This is a fantastic video!! I’ll be following your directions exactly. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. What brand/type of primer do you use on the siding? How can I deal with knot holes?
@enduringcharm
4 ай бұрын
I don't think the primer brand is super important, but it should be exterior rated and latex based, not oil. I typically use Zinnser 123, which has never let me down. You can buy it off the shelf in white or gray.
@gerardopicazo9986
6 күн бұрын
Awesome video! I’m doing repairs and extending garage that has 1x8” 105 profile lap siding (pine). Are there additional steps that you would recommend? Thanks again
@enduringcharm
6 күн бұрын
We call that "drop siding" or "novelty siding" in my area. The same principles apply. I would be extra cautious about back priming, since all of today's pine lumber is very poor quality and warping could be an issue. Thicker siding also means it can soak up more water on the end cuts, so be certain about priming those too. Mark your studs prior to siding installation so you are sure to hit them. There will be more weight with pine drop siding than with cedar bevel.
@Sparisland
Ай бұрын
Which caulking do you reccommend for the joints? I'm overcoating with Woodscapes soliid stain.
@tomellis7801
22 күн бұрын
Thank you for this video. If you are painting and repairing cedar lap siding, are there rules of thumb you use as to which boards you replace? Damaged boards obviously, but what about boards that show some warping etc. Thank you again!
@enduringcharm
22 күн бұрын
That's a great question. When I'm hired to replace damaged or marginal clapboard (or similar) siding I need to make judgement calls. One factor is the budget, for sure. If the damage is extensive, another factor may be the length of time the homeowner intends to stay in the house. Getting a house fixed up for sale is different than a forever house where the homeowner will be for decades. Another factor may be the age of the house. A 1700s home tends to appear natural with a few marginal boards, whereas a home built in 1990 may look shabby. Beyond that, I'll consider the sun exposure and likelihood of further damage, how close to the ground and damaging moisture the boards may be, whether there is sheathing and building paper or not, if the whole house will be painted again or not, and even what quality of replacement I can currently find versus the quality of what's already installed. In short, you have to balance a variety of factors with the available time and money. Warped or twisted boards are not likely to fix themselves and will only get worse, but if money is tight you could always wait for next year.
@tomellis7801
21 күн бұрын
@@enduringcharm Thank you for the informative reply. We just bought the house and plan to be here a while. Think I’ll replace those in question since I’m geared up anyway. Appreciate your info on the use of flashing underneath the two board seams. That is not something I thought about.
@BalancedLugger
Жыл бұрын
Great video. What sort of caulk do you use?
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
A latex acrylic caulk which can be painted over is best.
@BalancedLugger
Жыл бұрын
@@enduringcharm thanks!
@jamespaolillo3325
Ай бұрын
Great Video! Are you priming with oil, latex or something else?
@enduringcharm
Ай бұрын
Oil based primers and paints have disappeared due to changing regulations. Fortunately the latex primers are as good or better than the oil based primers ever were. I will often use Zinnser 123 primer for both exterior and interior projects. It's readily available and has never let me down.
@Genologic
3 ай бұрын
Would you recommend intentionally leaving larger gaps for caulking? Most caulk brands recommend that. Tight joints don’t fill properly.
@enduringcharm
3 ай бұрын
I bed my caulk sealant, meaning that I force the caulk into the gap with my finger and smooth the edges. Unless you have no gap at all, that should be sufficient. There are many who just lay a bead of caulk on the surface with the gun and leave it, but I find that lazy and ineffective. That aside, I do think about the building when considering the gaps I leave between trim and siding. A wall with a heavy southern exposure is going to experience greater movement in the siding than a wall hidden in shade all year long. So I will adjust the gaps according to local conditions.
@itshiiim
Жыл бұрын
If I wanted a nail-less finish, could I predrill holes in the top and cover them with the overlaps?
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
In short, no. Wood clapboard siding must be nailed at the bottom in order to hold the boards in place. If you nailed at the top of the boards you would soon have warped and cupped siding and as the upper part of the boards split where they are nailed, the siding would fall off the structure. However, if you really want a clean look with no nails showing, you could install Hardiplank cement board siding instead. That product is installed with roofing nails at the top of the board so that the siding basically hangs from the nails. Each successive row covers the previous nails.
@gregking2
5 ай бұрын
My home is a Carriage House built in 1886 and is located in Cambridge MA. It is has 1/2 inch bevel cedar siding. 10 years ago I stripped the entire house using the Paintsaver machine. Applied 2 coats of an oil based primer and two coats of a latex paint. The paint is now peeling again. I been told that I should have used a stain. I am now considering residing but wondering if I should use a stain instead of paint on non primed cedar siding. Any advice on stain vs primer and paint.
@enduringcharm
5 ай бұрын
Something overlooked by many homeowners and contractors alike is that a house or other structure is an interconnected system. If you focus entirely on one component you'll likely miss the impact had by other components in the system. Peeling paint seems like a simple thing to solve--just find the right finish or the right finishing process, and Bob's your uncle. But, it's more complicated than that. Peeling paint can have lots of causes including wall insulation type or condition, the type of exterior wall membrane, whether a rain shield was installed or not, the roof style and condition, the depth of soffit overhand, the use of gutters or not, the surrounding trees and vegetation, the style and structure of the house, the species and quality of wood siding, and a million installation details like flashing, caulking, ambient temperature and humidity and how the paint was applied. When I look at a paint failure I try to get a handle on all of this and more. So what is your issue? Even in your limited description I see some red flags. It's an 1886 structure, so if the siding is original or at least many decades old then it probably is not back-primed, and you may not even have sheathing underneath. It was a carriage house so it was not intended to be a home in the first place, and I'm sure insulation is lacking and there is no weather membrane under the siding. Since it is now a home, and a modern one at that, there is water vapor being created indoors from living, bathing and cooking, and that will tend to migrate to the outside. You live in MA so there are extremes in temperature and humidity over the seasons, and the wood will move with those changes. None of this is good for paint adhesion over the long term. When you stripped the siding, you exposed fresh wood, but that needed to be primed fairly quickly or else the sun will begin to damage the wood with UV light, and that can affect adhesion. You primed with an oil based primer, which may have been your biggest mistake. In New England the myth dies hard that oil based primer is still superior. I'm old enough to remember when the standard advice was to wipe the siding with boiled linseed oil, then paint with oil based primer and finish coats in a couple of weeks. Well, things have changed. A quality water based acrylic primer is a more flexible finish than an oil based primer. As such, it will move with the wood through the seasons more easily than an oil based primer and tends to have better permeability. Oil based primer with a water based topcoat can sometimes be a problem too, both at the time of painting and later. If the oil based primer isn't completely cured before topcoating there can be compatibility issues, and later the two layers of paint may tend to move at different rates with seasonal changes. My guess is that if you had used a waterbased primer and water based topcoat, your peeling problem would either be non-existent or at least minimized. As for stains, a pigmented stain does have a more "gummy" texture when cured, so it may be used to hide problems because it will accept more extreme movement. On the other hand, it also will not last as long and lighter colors may be a problem over knots or imperfections.
@gregking2
5 ай бұрын
@@enduringcharm Thank o for your kind reply message. There is insulation in the wall cavity mineral wool and rigid foam and R15 fiberglass in the rim joist. I had to repair some of the cedar siding and there is felt paper and 2 x 8 board for the exterior system. The felt paper is in bad shape which is why I am considering a residing. After watching your video I am reconsidering paint. I was told that a stain enables the cedar to breath and will not peel
@enduringcharm
5 ай бұрын
If you decide to put up new clapboard siding then you can backprime the boards and peeling paint will not be a problem. New siding may well be finger-jointed, though, unless you have a big budget. Typically it will come primed now, although lumberyards in your historic area may stock clear and if you order enough for a whole house you may be able to do a special order. You must, however, clean and re-prime both sides of the boards even when they come pre-primed. The factory prime is too old, scuffed and dirty by the time it gets to you to be effective. If you use a quality latex acrylic primer and finish paint, you backprime, and you put up new 30# felt, you won't have any problems. I've resided many homes from the 1700s without sheathing and still had success as long as I backprimed well. The pigmented stain is great for old barnwood or dark colors on other vertical siding. I even use it on my truck bed. But for traditional clapboard siding I prefer paint for longevity and looks.
@johnquimby3483
2 ай бұрын
you don't mention leaving any gaps for expansion.
@enduringcharm
2 ай бұрын
Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity, and it does so mostly parallel with the grain. Over the length of a clapboard, movement is not a great concern. If you are butting siding against trim boards, you can leave a sixteenth or an eighth and fill with caulk before painting. I will also consider the environment, such as the position of a wall relative to the sun, the amount of shade or vegetation, and the potential for rain and moisture in the area. Some houses take more of a beating than others.
@wills4544
Жыл бұрын
Thank you very much for your very detailed instruction with tips and tricks! I am dealing with a window trim board under a northern face window in Dallas. After remove the 1x4x7 f. trim plank, I discovered somehow the siding plank under the wood plank has some rod, soggy areas (dark brown) that seemed not able to hold nails. Do you think if I have to replace whole siding board behind or if there is someway that I could repair the siding board? I believe it is type of engineered siding board mimic wood, but not real wood. Thanks!
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
Let's back up this train for a second to make sure we're talking about the same thing. So the walls are built with studs if it is a house built in the 20th or 21st century. Then sheathing is applied to those studs, which might be plywood or something called OSB (oriented strand board). Then on top of the sheathing should be a house wrap of some sort, which might be "felt" or tar paper if the house is older, or it might be something like Tyvek, a plastic sheeting. Then the siding is applied, and the siding may go under some of the trim or it may go up to the trim and just be caulked. With that said, the window trim nails should penetrate into the sheathing or even the studs if possible. The rotted or "punky" area that you see under the trim, are you certain that is siding and not the sheathing you are looking at? If it is indeed siding, there is not much you can do but replace it, or perhaps make the trim board slightly larger to cover rotted area that you remove. If it is sheathing, then you need to see how far the rot goes. A small section you might leave alone after you allow it to dry out and you cover it with new house wrap or flashing. A larger section should be removed and replaced with new sheathing. I have some other videos which I think might be helpful in your understanding here: kzitem.info/news/bejne/l4iVm3d9hH97i6w and also here: kzitem.info/news/bejne/zZhqt4SLrH1eZH4
@wills4544
Жыл бұрын
@@enduringcharm John, Thank you so much for your prompt response in details! Yes, there is indeed a siding behind the window trim board. It is a bay window. I think that is why the builder used siding planks instead of using bricks with sheathing around window frames. I am going to use a 1x6x8ft weather treated trim board to replace the original 1x4x76’ trim, so I could have some solid edge on the board to put nails into the good siding planks. I also plan to put a piece of 6 inch galvanized steel flashing at the back of the new trim board to protect future rain water penetration into the siding, if I do not remove partially rotted siding. Good thing is that Dallas normally only receives small amount of annual rain. I wish I could show you some pictures to explain why I am not really confident if I could handle the siding job since I do not have adequate power tools to make a straight cut on the siding…and I do not have any experience working with siding. I only want to improve the situation but not to make it worse… Do you think if I still need to put a layer of moisture protection sheet behind the steel flashing? I will certainly using ample amount of silicone caulking between the window (metal frame) and the 1x6x8 ft window trim board. Thanks!
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
Well, I definitely don't have a complete mental picture of what's going on--it's always difficult to try to explain these things with just words. But, I'll offer a couple of further tips. First, galvanized steel flashing is not used anymore, and I'd be surprised if you could even buy it. Instead, you can buy aluminum flashing in the form of a roll or in various preformed profiles. They also now make a very thin copper flashing which is backed by a plastic. It comes in a roll and because it is thin you can form it to many shapes. Copper offers an additional benefit in that it is antimicrobial when it bleeds copper over time. All that said, the most appropriate flashing is probably not metal at all for your application, but one of the self-stick plastic or rubberized membranes sold as "window and door flashing." Some, like the Zip System Stretch Tape, can be formed over almost any profile and it sticks tenaciously. What I'm not clear on is how exactly you are flashing the work, so I think I would need a picture to offer advice on that. As far as repairing the siding, you might consider purchasing a multitool for the job, which will get use for other work too. (See kzitem.info/news/bejne/uWul36CgnV-Xh6Q). If you don't want to spend the cash, you could do it the old school way. Before we had these power tools I would repair clapboard siding with just a utility knife and a carpenter's square. Hold the square on the clapboard where you need to make a vertical cut and then use the utility knife to repeatedly score the siding until you break through. Above your cut may be a little bit of siding left which is hidden by the board above. You can sneak a saw in there and hack it off, or sometimes it will just snap off on it's own if there isn't much left. Worse case, if you screw up, you replace a few more boards than you anticipated and weave it in with the existing work.
@hpain6261
5 ай бұрын
I agree with everything you said but painting an entire house by hand? I can’t find any contractor to paint a house by hand.
@enduringcharm
5 ай бұрын
You are quite right, it is difficult or even impossible to find a painting contractor who works by hand. About the best you'll find is one willing to spray the paint and then brush it out by hand. Unfortunately most painting contractors believe they can't make a profit working by hand, and exterior painting is often marketed on price. The irony is that painting entirely by brush can be profitable, especially since the contractor does not need to maintain and clean sprayers or take additional preventative work to protect from overspray. However, I see a lot of painting contractors who sell a job to ignorant homeowners at full price and then skimp on prep and roll the paint on (even in vertical strokes!) as quickly as possible. I can't change the industry, but I can tell you that hand brushing is the best way to apply the paint for longevity and authentic looks.
@floridaknight3052
Жыл бұрын
F_ck yeah!
@johnspanos3862
Жыл бұрын
“Sugi” Japanese cedar any good? Looks like I found a very reputable lumberyard selling for 1.12$ a linear foot.
@enduringcharm
Жыл бұрын
Never run across that, but I see no reason why it wouldn't be as good as another cedar.
@johnspanos3862
Жыл бұрын
@@enduringcharm you're my lucky charm! Local Lowes just got a pallet full of .5x6x196" (bundle of 10 per pack) 100% Western Red FJ cedar primed. bundle of 10 pieces for only $179! Puts it at just over 1$ a linear foot, which compared to my local lumberyard's 3$ a LF, is a steal. Shortly after my order was processed, Lowes increased the price of their remaining stock by 100$ a bundle so my price was clearly from last year when it was last in stock. Win!! Manager said they haven't seen a shipment of cedar in any store in ages... Jumped on it and bought 16 bundles at the lower price. Hopefully decent quality. Thank you so much for your advice and informative videos.
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