Wouldn't be a DrPigment video without some sort of hiccup. This BMW came in for the whole kit and kaboodle. Trim, calipers, wheels, spoiler, door lights, and of course full liquid wrap.
Starting off with a thorough wash with dish soap and water then leaving it to dry over night. Water is no bueno when it comes to painting so ensure its dry. Then comes masking. Solvent resistant paper, tape, and some plazmask make quick work of this car. The owner doesn't want the jambs done and is actually excited about having bright red jambs. She even asked us to do the calipers red to match. We are leaving the trim exposed in order to spray the base.
Since we are going with a light color we start with a light grey base. The first two coats are tack coats then we get about 3 medium coats down. We are using the compressor, HVLP, and a 1.7mm tip to spray about 2gal of light grey base.
Next up I decide to knock the trim out. The trim is going gloss but the car is going satin. I put down some black on the trim and roof first then sprayed gloss over it. I didn't bother masking around the trim because I was going to spray the color anyway. Now I let the gloss trim dry over night. Next morning I masked off the roof and trim thinking the gloss was dry enough. Welp... it wasn't. It was a rainy weekend and I should have just done the trim at the end of the project anyway but hindsight is 20/20. While I was spraying the color the plastic, tape, and solvents were making a mess of the still soft gloss. I didn't have a clue what was going on until I went to unmask the car. At this point there were two solutions. Try to sand and re-clear the trim or peel and respray. I decided to sand so I masked off the entire car except the trim and roof, wet sanded with 1000 grit, and resprayed the gloss. It is very important to mask off the entire rest of the car because this gloss overspray is very sticky. Luckily the sanding method worked and I did not have to peel anything.
The customer chose a color called RAL Pastel Turquoise and requested that it be a little more grey. I ended up adding 25 grams of Dr Grey pearl to desaturate it a bit. I personally really like the way this color turned out and I think the matte/satin look was an excellent choice.
For the Satin Clearcoat, I busted out the IWATA with a 1.3mm tip. The customer wanted more of a matte look so I closed my fluid and fan pattern a little more than usual to produce a dryer coat. The coat is still scratch/gas resistant and very durable with a tad of satin sheen. Spraying the satin clearcoat wet would result in a glossier effect.
After the car was fixed and finished we unmasked and called the customer. She actually used to be my manager at an old job. She was a big fan of the way it turned out and at the end of the day, that's all that matters.
As always, everything used is listed below. Check us out on social media and feel free to shoot us a message with any questions. If you are in Jacksonville FL or planning a visit and want to get your car done by us, give me a call (904) 994 7808 (Alan). If you are an auto painter and looking to add this as a service give me a call too.
Products:
RAL 6034 Pastel Turquoise Spherical Kit: drpigment.com/products/spheri...
Satin Clear: drpigment.com/products/satin-...
Dr. Grey Pearl: drpigment.com/products/dr-grey
Starter Kit: drpigment.com/products/starte...
IWATA HVLP gun: amzn.to/3J34qTH
All music licensed through Artlist.io license number: 699875
0:00 - Intro
0:32 - Masking
0:51 - Basecoat
1:46 - Midcoat
2:37 - Topcoat
2:45 - Problems
4:20 - Fixing The Trim
5:08 - Reveal
Негізгі бет Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары Pastel Turquoise | Satin Clearcoat
Пікірлер: 7