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The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1A may be an exception among the firm’s catalog anchors, but if you’re going to launch just one sporting chronograph, make it a great one. Patek took its sole bullet and hit dead center.
On the occasion of the model’s 30th anniversary, Patek Philippe debuted the first ever Nautilus chronograph. By combining the king of sporting complications with its flagship sports watch, Patek created an historic model with unprecedented youthful vigor and robust wrist presence.
The revolution was an inside-job. Specifically, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1A packs the first automatic chronograph ever designed and produced in-house by Patek. Despite its august reputation and history of complications innovation, the Stern family’s horology empire spent most of its history reliant on outside specialists for base movements, especially chronographs.
In 2006, the new CH 28-520 chronograph movement launched simultaneously in this Nautilus chronograph and the 5960P annual calendar chronograph.
It’s a gem of an engine.
Consider the feature set that Patek Philippe crams into the Nautilus 5980′s case: maintenance-free ceramic winding rotor bearings; a vertical clutch that enables the chronograph to run continuously without damage; a column wheel that keeps the pusher feel crisp; a 55-hour power reserve that easily trumps the industry’s 42-hour norm; a free-sprung balance that resists shock to promote utmost timing precision.
A classic Geneva Hallmark visible through the sapphire case back is the grand finale of Patek’s in-house opus. This movement is a love letter to smitten devotees of the watchmaker’s art.
But the Nautilus 5980 also makes a statement with its style. While previous Patek Philippe watches - Nautilus included - were the embodiment of reserved masculinity and traditional elegance, the 5980 was the first Patek Philippe that could be called “butch” in the contemporary parlance. This chronograph looks like a Nautilus that hit the gym with a locker full of Met-Rx.
Unlike traditional Pateks, the 5980 seems inclined to go lug-to-lug with the Oyster series professional watches from Rolex and the muscular Royal Oak Offshore from eternal rival Audemars Piguet. The 5980 is a big watch by Patek Philippe standards, and the sense of substance on the wrist is matched by its physical presence; don’t be deceived by the nominal 40.5mm case size.
This Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1A is available from thewatchbox.com in outstanding condition with full factory accessories.
Video and content by Tim Mosso
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