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@MrGerhardGrobler
2 жыл бұрын
Hi. Interesting video. Question: Ever printed with SBS? It can be smoothed with D'limonine extracted from the skin of citrus fruits. It is also used to recycle polystyrine used in food take aways 100%. Your answer would really interest me. We have a manufacturer in South Africa called Fil X that makes SBS filament. Videos on KZitem refere to imports from Russia years ago. Love your channel. Always learning something new.
@mike-ology22
2 жыл бұрын
Hi mate. What is the point in that? I believe 3d printing should be used to make prototypes and parts for hobbyists to use. If you want strong parts and to print multiple items, wouldn't it be better to injection mould them?
@soundspark
2 жыл бұрын
"Can be used by anyone" might be false advertising, now that some models aka "NSFW" are behind an account wall.
@blanksymortimer4088
2 жыл бұрын
Now that I think about it you might use a wire brush of some sort to texture the layers. Using the tool head changer or doing a quick scratch manually sounds simple.
@MrGerhardGrobler
2 жыл бұрын
@@mike-ology22 Costs mate, costs. I have a sole proprietor company with a very limited budged. To have injection moulds made for every part, that changes every 6 months as I learn new methods and designs would not be cost effective at all. So my 6 3D printers have to cary the weight of producing parts for the products that I sell. My 6 printers are about R5000 US in total. To have just 1 part made into an injection mould would cost double that due to complicated structures.
@shammyh
2 жыл бұрын
Failures are just as important, if not more important, than successes. Props to both you and Tom for both putting the effort into publishing "stuff that didn't work". 👍
@animatrix1851
2 жыл бұрын
See dad! zksHPuPngGs61kNJ says I'm important!
@lcarus42
2 жыл бұрын
The only failure is when you fail to learn from the failure.
@Torskel
2 жыл бұрын
You mean Thomas The Slanderer ?
@iandrake4683
2 жыл бұрын
I was just having this thought yesterday. I've been looking into hydroponics lately and have so many ideas and I think "I wonder if anyone has tried that". What a time saver it is to know what doesn't work ahead of time. Of course there is the tried and true methods, but I always want bigger, better, faster, and easier.
@lucalves905
2 жыл бұрын
I agree, the deposition of material perpendicular to the plane is the villain in this case
@MikeRutherfordNLN
2 жыл бұрын
I had an idea for trying to improve layer strength: staggered layers. Basically if you were printing a 2 perimeter hollow box print the outer layer, raise up half the layer height, print the inner, up half the layer height again, print outer and so on. I tried doing it hand editing gcode and successfully printed a 2mm high test to see if it was possible without dragging the piece off of the bed. I never went back to make a piece big enough to test the strength due to how long it took to edit the gcode for even that small test. I'm not a coder so I couldn't easily think of a way to automate it.
@archercureton3738
2 жыл бұрын
Have you seen the "Alternate Extra Wall" feature on the Cura slicer? It looks like it does a similar pattern. I haven't tried it but maybe it will speed up the process?
@martinmckee5333
2 жыл бұрын
@@archercureton3738 it's not quite the same. It improves bonding to infill, but it still prints on the same plane as the rest of the print. I have never looked at the Cura code, but it may be possible to add a z shift to the extra wall more easily than writing a whole new pass for the slicer.
@mkesenheimer
2 жыл бұрын
That’s a fantastic idea! Would love to try this idea if I had time to. Maybe there is a better way to automate this.
@peterer98
2 жыл бұрын
You could try this with super slicer's "Between extrusion role change G-code" section. Watch out for the first layer :D
@holgerpieta7367
2 жыл бұрын
A while ago I actually made a Python script that generated a test hook sample with that technique and send it here. Sadly it was never tested.
@bread1919
2 жыл бұрын
I tried the same stuff a few years back with epoxy, what I observed was the liquid would be vaporized by the heat instead of helping bond layers together. Meantime, the hot plastic would cool down faster because of the vaporization, which only made thing worse.
@SidneyCritic
2 жыл бұрын
That's what I would expect, ie, solvents flash off so fast I wouldn't expect it to do much.
@haphazard1342
2 жыл бұрын
Depends on what the cause of layer non-adhesion is. For example, if the filament is just greasy and this grease film interferes with layer bonding, then removing that with acetone from at least one surface would help.
@bread1919
2 жыл бұрын
@@haphazard1342 I thintk the primary goal of doing all these experiments is to enhance the layer bonds, not to fix an existing malfunction. I woud doubt that someone will keep their fialment in a dirty environment. Even if you want to clean the filament, it is easier to just add a sponge to clean the filament before it enters the hotend or extruder. I also don't think using acetone to clean filament is a great idea, since several plastic can be dissolved by acetone.
@arthurmoore9488
2 жыл бұрын
This makes me wonder about another option. Print the piece "spongy". By which I mean either use a special material or adjust the extruder settings to leave voids by continually starting and stopping instead of one continuous extrusion. Then use a thin epoxy or resin that soaks into the part. For example, you can get superglue as thin as water. Basically, 3d print a scaffold then use something else for the actual material strength.
@Reth_Hard
2 жыл бұрын
I just googled different glues and epoxies: The gorilla glue or the normal superglue seems to be two good candidates for this but they might dry a bit too fast... (10-45 seconds) A modified 3D printer that is applying the glue (or solvent, epoxy, etc...) automatically with a second nozzle would be a lot better and might be able to print very strong parts.
@CommHawk
2 жыл бұрын
You could try leaving a hole or two through the model and force a single extrusion of filament through it. It might anchor the layers or normalize the cooling related stresses
@Balorng
2 жыл бұрын
Diy injection molding! How cool is that! Now that is something one of those super-high melt volume hot ends would be good for.
@mme725
2 жыл бұрын
Oooh, injecting a spine after the first printing phase sounds neat.
@grahams5871
2 жыл бұрын
What an interesting idea! This made me think of another idea: what if you made only 1 infill layer every 4 layers, but when you did print it you significantly over-extruded it so it filled up the extra space and it overflowed a little. Now you have a large blob of plastic that is hot and melted and may hold more sturdily ( it will look ugly, but it is the job of the outer layers to look pretty) The idea I came here to post was to force the filament through a wet pad of solvent _before_ printing. It will soak into the filament melt and make the plastic softer. It might give an effect like printing at a higher temperature.
@ruzzcraze1862
2 жыл бұрын
you would need really high pressures/very fast extrusion and it still would probably have injection defects. I don't think it would be worth the effort over just printing more walls.
@OB1canblowme
2 жыл бұрын
At the viscosity FDM usually works at you would need a hole probably 3x the extrusion diameter for it not to just squirt out the sides and solidify into a huge blob. Even then it's likely going to stick to the walls high up in the hole, solidify and plug the hole without filling it.
@ianbruene1529
2 жыл бұрын
One possible way of improving layer strength might be to take a variant of non-planar printing and "weave" the infill lines across 2-3 layers. It wouldn't need the same level of hotend modification as true non-planar printing, but should interlock the layers much better than normal slicing.
@CircsC
2 жыл бұрын
Kind of like Prusaslicer's Combine Infill layers, but on nonplanar stereroids? I think that's an interesting avenue of investigation. Maybe printing the infill at like 2x normal layer height or something along with that could have interesting results. I've been including small through holes to put glues into.
@alejandroperez5368
2 жыл бұрын
What if my parts almost don't have infill?
@lennynnnnnn
2 жыл бұрын
This! Another thought that is similar is to extrude large blobs into the infill area. Kinda like filling a print with hot glue.
@oleost
2 жыл бұрын
This is what I think about as well. But not online infill but outer layers as well. Let the perimeter zigzag in Z direction so each perimeter is in contact with multiple perimeters
@christophmuller3511
2 жыл бұрын
What about printing cavities and then later inject material into them with the nozzle? Would interlink layers without the need to weave.
@abm8017
2 жыл бұрын
(I work with a plastics company in their R&D department) Put in mind they might be weaker due to annealing! Test a normal sample conditioned at 60C to compare with the bonded ones. Putting it at 60C Will probably relieve internal cooling stresses which weakens the part. Condition both at 60C, one as-is and one broken/rebonded, so that you’re comparing apples to apples ;)
@ChrisBigBad
2 жыл бұрын
Wasn't the food dehydrator already at 60°C?
@robmckennie4203
2 жыл бұрын
The glued parts went through the dehydrator and were still stronger
@bjrn-oskarrnning2740
2 жыл бұрын
Some kind of non-planar printing might be cool: each layer "weaves" up and down so that each layer is partially bonded to the layer below on the sides in addition to underneath, if that makes sense. Might be a bit difficult to program, tho, IDK.
@puerlatinophilus3037
2 жыл бұрын
Yeah. I think it could easily work like that for perimeters: You print the entire perimeter, but you leave out a few small sections. In the next pass you basically just print on top of that and get the "weaves".
@georgewilson5177
2 жыл бұрын
I've also thought about a method like this often and would be interested to see it in action could possibly weave from the wall back and down one layer into the infill and have the infill lines cross over those weave points
@gnramires
2 жыл бұрын
Indeed, for a rectilinear infill (horizontal and vertical), if you imagine printing: 1/2 the vertical lines -> 1/2 the horizontal lines -> other 1/2 of vertical lines -> other 1/2 of horizontal lines -> ... you get a weave!
@oriansbelt
2 жыл бұрын
I would like to see a test where each flat layer of a print was converted to and printed with a sinusoidal pattern that was something like this: xahlee.info/SpecialPlaneCurves_dir/Sinusoid_dir/wave_surface.png where the units on the 3d graph are in Layer Heights. The bed would have to constantly move up and down in Z as the head moves in the X-Y plane but that is a fairly simple mathematical distortion. It shouldn't effect the external geometry any except at the top and bottom surfaces but that would be ok for a Z strength test sample. Since the Z travel would be so small it should be achievable on any printer. I expect the z-strength would increase proportional to how high you could make the peaks relative to the diameter. If you could get a 1/1 ratio (instead of the 2/7.5 ratio shown in the graph) you could probably reduce the difference between the X-Y strength and Z strength by 70%. It i might be hard to get it to that ratio though depending on the geometry of the nozzle tip. The sharper the nozzle the higher the ratio probably. Most nozzles have a small flat area around the hole where the filament comes out which would be a limiting factor probably. A sharper nozzle like how this one is depicted might help: i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODUyWDEwMDA=/z/UY4AAOSwYzZgxx89/$_57.JPG?set_id=8800005007 (I don't think that picture is really like that, I was just looking for an image that showed what I was talking about). I think this would make a big difference and could be implemented without too much modification.
@brennangranville3845
2 жыл бұрын
@@oriansbelt This is how I envisioned achieving the original suggestion by Bjorn-Oskar Ronning. I think it would improve the strength but I'm not sure by how much.
@blahorgaslisk7763
2 жыл бұрын
When the acetone evaporates it absorbs heat from the surface. You can feel this if you dip your finger in the acetone and hold it up. Blowing on it increases the evaporation rate and you feel your finger cooling down even more. So the acetone on the part will effectively cause the surface temperature to drop making the ABS have a tough time to adhere to the previous layer. At least that's my take on the whole thing. I don't have any 3D printing experience but everything I've read, seen or heard about printing ABS it's best done in a heated chamber. So the cooling from the acetone evaporating sounds like it would work against you when trying to get the layers to adhere to each other. Someone in the comments suggested using a laser to heat the previous layer just before the extruder puts down a new layer. It might be worth thinking about. But I have no idea how to implement something like that. The extruder will after all move in all directions so either the laser has to move around it so it can hit the area the nozzle is going to cover with a new layer next, or there have to be several lasers placed around the extruder. Seems impractical and expensive, and I have no idea if it would actually help,
@salec7592
2 жыл бұрын
Maybe a small heat blower nozzle instead of laser? That would create a bit wider heat island on the surface. Perhaps the printing head nozzle could be constructed in such manner that it has additional external wall (a sleeve) and air cooling the nozzle is forced downwards between the nozzle and its external wall/sleeve, so that extrusion flows down surrounded by downward stream of hot air which heats the point of contact between the print and newly added material.
@tardonator
2 жыл бұрын
@salec That method will result i significant warping, I think. The laser approach likely mitigates that much better by localizing heat.
@blahorgaslisk7763
2 жыл бұрын
@@tardonator As I think I said earlier, I don't have any 3D printing experience, but as I understand it we have two conflicting interests, layer adhesion and keeping the shape without warping. Layer adhesion is best when both the previous layer and the extruded plastic is at melting temperatures, but that also means the print is soft and prone to warping. Any overhang will be very likely to sag and it's unlikely the print will be able to finish. The cooling fan is intended to combat this by removing heat from the fresh layer before it can sag. Using a warm airflow to create a "puddle" is therefore not likely to work. Using a very concentrated heat source, such as a laser, also creates a "puddle", but a much smaller one. It would be similar to soldering or welding the plastic and would require a lot less energy and therefore total amount of heat to accomplish. So less heat for the fan to remove to avoid sag. Having written this I kind of wonder if it would be possible to avoid the hot-end and weld the filament directly using a laser... Though If I can dream it up I'm sure others have also thought about it and either tried it or dismissed it for practical reasons that I haven't thought of. I think that when 3D printing metal powder a laser is used to fuse the powder, so there is some merit to the idea. Note that I said "I think"...
@arthurmoore9488
2 жыл бұрын
@@blahorgaslisk7763 > Having written this I kind of wonder if it would be possible to avoid the hot-end and weld the filament directly using a laser... That's what Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) does. "Print" a layer by melting metal powder. Move the bed down a bit, put more powder on top. Repeat.
@blahorgaslisk7763
2 жыл бұрын
@@arthurmoore9488 Thank you for confirming that. Still I don't know if it would be a good idea to try it with plastic. On one hand it's probably possible to get good adhesion, but it also makes it impossible to use infill as the unfused powder would stay trapped in the infill structure. So either you make things solid or you have to leave holes where the powder can evacuated once the print is finished. Edit: Yes I realize that metal prints have the same problems, but when printing metal you are probably looking for maximum strength so you'd print things solid anyway.
@Leonarco333
2 жыл бұрын
What about changing the nozzle tip geometry? Something like a cake decorating nozzle that lays star shaped beads instead of round ones. It should allow more surface area between layers and the layers would no longer be planar.
@DireWolfForge
2 жыл бұрын
I think that would likely create stringing issues from the sharp corners dragging. Cool idea though. Maybe an ovoid shaped nozzle would work.
@edumaker-alexgibson
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Stefan, this is something I tinkered with also, with quite similar results. Your methodical approach makes the results useful, valid data even when they aren't 'successful', helps us either come up with a more refined version or reject and put energy into other ideas - and it was an enjoyable video, and you got some Japanese learned!
@nonsquid
2 жыл бұрын
I like the idea of laser sintering the layers together as it is printed. A fiber laser head at the print head to continuously stitch layers together.
@Epiphalactic
2 жыл бұрын
We gotta respect this man's follow through. Really sat there brushing acetone in between each layer.
2 жыл бұрын
Ideas: Printing in CO₂ atmosphere, Argon atmosphere, under vacuum, all to avoid surface oxidation. (Vacuum would require huge interlayer times for radiative cooling). Or with laser preheating the area next to nozzle to print liquid ABS onto a thin liquidized surface layer.
@louisvaught2495
2 жыл бұрын
Printing under CO2 creates further oxidation at that temperature since there's an oxygen source. Printing under a vacuum causes VOC release. I've managed to get the result you're looking for under dry, high purity nitrogen at positive pressure. The impact on mechanical strength for PLA, ABS, and PETG is minimal, but there are other impacts from the reduction of oxidation, namely the material is more ductile.
2 жыл бұрын
@@louisvaught2495 I don't see how CO2 could serve as an oxygen source for organic polymers, given that it'd be one carbon reducing another carbon. But perhaps it could attack the polymers as an acid.
@Bizzon666
2 жыл бұрын
@@louisvaught2495 CO2 cannot oxidize things under ~1000°C! But otherwise I agree with you that impact of inert atmosphere would be minimal. The polymer doesn't oxidize at printing temperatures, main mechanism of degradation is depolymerization.
@louisvaught2495
2 жыл бұрын
@@Bizzon666 Problem with your claims is they directly contradict both published literature, and the XPS+NMR results hanging out on my laptop. In the future, I'd recommend testing rather than speculating, otherwise you might wind up telling people outright misinformation. Polymer behavior gets very complicated very quickly. At the direction of some of the best in the industry, I've stopped trying to speculate versus just testing it.
@Bizzon666
2 жыл бұрын
@@louisvaught2495 Ok, I stand corrected, I didn't know the depolymerization is of oxidative mechanism 😬 I apologize
@3DMusketeers
2 жыл бұрын
Data, no matter how it comes out, is incredibly important. I appreciate the dive into this Stefan and also CONGRATS ON 400k SUBS!!! Keep it up!
@CNCKitchen
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks man, much appreciated!
@fconks5933
2 жыл бұрын
After trying quite a few filaments, I have found taulman 910 nylon to have the best layer adhesion of any filament i have used. A few things I have noticed though: 1) being that it’s nylon it’s very important to have it thoroughly dry (as with all nylons) to achieve optimal adhesion with prints. 2) I anneal most of my prints with it, but notice that the layer adhesion is lacking a little bit after it’s been dried 3) once it is rehydrated, weather by the environment or dying it, the layer adhesion is outstanding, probably as strong as the x/y axis. I know this is a little off track but my point is that I’ve noticed with this particular filament that very dry printing and allowing it to rehydrate fully tends to greatly affect layer adhesion properties in my experience. I would imagine this is the same for most filaments. I noticed that you tested z-axis strength after drying, perhaps if you let it re absorb some moisture, the results may be somewhat different
@lennynnnnnn
2 жыл бұрын
So dunk in warm water for a bit? Wait a day or two?
@fconks5933
2 жыл бұрын
Either should work. I’ve just noticed with taulman nylon that it gets better when it’s rehydrated. I dye it with RIT dye, so I keep water with the dye at about 160f for around 15 mins while I dye the part
@CNCKitchen
2 жыл бұрын
Need to check that out at some point!
@1234567890CAB
2 жыл бұрын
I read about non-plane printing a year or two ago where a long narrow nozzle is used and the g-code tells the printer to move through X, Y, and Z while printing a layer so that the outside of the part is smoother and much less stepped. I thought that could be used during the infill to make infill that overlaps multiple adjacent layers. However I'm not too sure on the specific geometry that would be needed so that each layer can have some overlap with the layers next to it. Something that would be much easier to execute would be to pause the nozzle over an opening in the infill and continuously extrude to fill multiple layers of infill at once. Each layer only a fraction of the openings would be filled so that it would be staggered and there would be a lot of overlap. This can also be combined with the non-plane printing where you have a long narrow nozzle that lowers itself to the bottom of each opening, starts extruding, and slowly spirals back up. For example if your infill makes a grid of 10 squares, only two squares would be filled each layer, so the extrusion would fill 5 layers. Then the next layer two different squares would be filled and so on until that pattern repeats every 5 layers. That way there's a lot of overlap and no individual layer would be 100% layer adhesion. If you were also doing non-plane printing for this example, the nozzle would position itself over a square, lower down 5 layers, then extrude continuously as the nozzle slowly either spirals or goes straight up 5 layers.
@properprinting
2 жыл бұрын
You just saved me of lot of time, thanks for sharing your findings! This was one of the things I wanted to automate with my pump extruder. Maybe I still will ;)
@14Mew
2 жыл бұрын
As someone who prints in almost exclusively ABS I feel the part which caused your welded parts to fall short in strength stems from the accelerated curing in your dehydrator. ABS which has soaked up acetone is very sensitive to heat which can cause the material to puff up weakening the layers. Doing tests myself with trying to speed up the curing of welded parts has lead me to the conclusion of allowing the acetone to evaporate on its own will lead to a stronger bond.
@Mod20087
2 жыл бұрын
Maybe using something like a heated needle to stipple the surface of the layer could improve adhesion similar to how you rough up contact surfaces before applying glue? Great video by the way
@yeroca
2 жыл бұрын
maybe sand each layer lightly, creating small grooves that increase the surface area
@CaraesNaur
2 жыл бұрын
I was thinking to machine the nozzle end with very small protrusions that would groove the surface as it printed.
@leftaroundabout
2 жыл бұрын
I would go even further: poke the needle _through_ the last layer, to re-melt its interface with the one before.
@first-thoughtgiver-of-will2456
2 жыл бұрын
One way to increase inter layer adhesion along the slice axis is to increase your layer width to 0.425 and decrease your layer height as low as 0.05 for a 0.4 mm nozzle. This causes under extrusion to be represented in the horizontal direction instead of the vertical which is the primary cause of layer adhesion failure due to filament diameter tolerances and accuracies along the axis of slicing. Thank you for your work Stephan these videos are very important.
@ondrejtyc7578
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your dedication to these time consuming tests of new ideas. I think that evaporative cooling ruined the layer adhesion. Would it be feasible to laser heat bottom layer in front of a nozzle printing new layer? Or induction heat iron filled filaments?
@CNCKitchen
2 жыл бұрын
Might be a good option, though I do think there is a patent on a similar idea.
@antoniomromo
2 жыл бұрын
This is a level of dedication I did not think was possible. Props to you good sir
@gorgonbert
2 жыл бұрын
Totally expected you’d build a robot to do the coating 😜
@CNCKitchen
2 жыл бұрын
😅 I was a bit lazy TBH.
@BrazenRain
2 жыл бұрын
@@CNCKitchen you could say the same if you did build the robot 😝
@gorgonbert
2 жыл бұрын
@@CNCKitchen on the contrary 🙏
@Kalvinjj
2 жыл бұрын
@@BrazenRain Putting a lot of effort into not putting effort is a constant state of my life
@Lucas_sGarage
2 жыл бұрын
This is not stuff made here dude hahha
@FilamentStories
2 жыл бұрын
Your dedication to research is so valuable, perhaps especially when the results aren’t positive. Your videos are always a joy to watch from a content as well as production perspective. Thanks, Stefan!
@frankandstuff
2 жыл бұрын
I would love to see a laser (or even a hot air gun with an incredibly small nozzle) that would melt the previous layer just ahead of the print nozzle. That way, both the new layer and the layer it is being laid on are molten, thus allowing an actual weld to occur. It is like if you were trying to "weld" two pieces of plastic together. If only one surface is molten, the weld is incredibly weak. Proper welds, no matter the material, require both surfaces to be molten. I feel like a laser is the most accurate method to ensure only the plastic just ahead of the hotend will be molten (which will minimize deformation).
@dn275
2 жыл бұрын
Bless you for doing the testing for us. Sitting there for 3 hours repeating the same motion would drive me insane but it's definitely an interesting question that I'm glad you answered. I always am looking foward to your videos!
@CNCKitchen
2 жыл бұрын
You're welcome! I'm usually also not the patient guy but somehow I was able to make it through the process.
@jeffwitz8556
2 жыл бұрын
Hello Stephan, I think that's the best way to improve adhesion is to use non planar 3D printing, it will largely increase the contact surfaces between 2 layers, but there is a lot of work to be done in the slicers side in order to to this ! An other way would be to over-extrude and machining after each printed slice, with your tool-changer it would be possible. By the way, we have made an aluminum milling head for ASMBL, feel free to contact me if you want a free one for your Tool Changer. Regards,
@Joern8910
2 жыл бұрын
Digging the hot Nozzle or a second hot nozzel/spear into the part in a pattern after each layer could also improve the bonding.
@28porkchop
2 жыл бұрын
you mentioned that layers with texture from the nozzle digging seemed stronger, fixing a textured roller on the print head next to the nozzle and at the same height could add texture and possibly solvent as well at each layer without manual interaction
@MrSilbarita
2 жыл бұрын
Maybe braided layers might help adhesion! Have the nozzle lay continuous lines that span consecutive layers by raising Z mid line. It doesn't sound easy to code but it could be a neat proof of concept.
@iamdmc
2 жыл бұрын
This sounds nearly impossible but yes braiding between layers would add a bit of resistance to breakage (although I suspect not much because you're still limited by the strength of 2 very thin lines of extruded filament). If you had an elastic thermoplastic like TPU which could transfer the stress throughout the model then braiding could be a solution to dramatically increase strength in Z axis
@MZ-nw7wz
2 жыл бұрын
Excellent work, I wonder if you submerged a finished print in it's respective solvent, if the outside bonding would make a notable difference in layer adhesion. Taking that notion a step further, I wonder if you drilled a hole through the model (or planned for this in the structure of the model) to allow for ingress and draining of a solvent on the inside and outside simultaneously if that would help. Great content, I love watching your analysis of the experiments!
@johnkim3858
2 жыл бұрын
It would be nice to know how much of an effect a heated chamber has on layer adhesion when it is at the material's glass transition temperature.
@CNCKitchen
2 жыл бұрын
Might try that at some point though I think the high-temp materials benefit significantly more in this regard.
@emteemakes2668
2 жыл бұрын
I've been doing very large prints (using a 1200x600x600 printer) in ABS and I've found the best layer bonding strength has come from using a 0.6mm nozzle with 0.8mm line width at 0.2mm height, and cooking the ABS at 250 degrees with a print speed of 80mm/sec. I also use 3 walls and a 5% overlap between walls to minimise porosity in the actual wall structure. That said, this hasn't helped as much as I'd like with fine structures. The stuff I print is functional car parts, so needs to be strong. Currently I'm experimenting with alternative materials to try and find a better solution, so interested to see people's ideas here. I've used your videos to help guide a lot of the decisions I've made around these prints too so thank you for being so thorough! You can see some of the prints I've done over on my channel - I recently upgraded the printer from standard E3D volcano extruders to bondtech BMG and am getting even better prints now, but I think the next movement will be to the X series to really improve the speed.
@OrtexVideos
2 жыл бұрын
Have you considered printing a part with an outer shell made from a plastic with a high melting point and then 100% infill of another plastic with a much lower melting point, then annealing it at a temperature sufficient to melt the inner plastic but not the outer shell. I have had this idea for some time but unfortunately I don't have a dual extruding printer so I could never try it. Maybe if its a new idea to you you could test it, or maybe you've already tried it and I just missed that video. One last thing to consider is that it might not give significant improvement to your Z axis tensile strength test because the cross section of the part is such a small area.
@ianspam649
2 жыл бұрын
Fascinating, that could work.
@KentoCommenT
2 жыл бұрын
This sounds lilke a solid idea
@proungoods818
2 жыл бұрын
This seems like it is worth a test. Stefan you are the guy to do it given your awesome testing setup!
@eby3085
2 жыл бұрын
I'd like to see this done
@gretakenaston1964
2 жыл бұрын
I would die to see this, i think it would work great.
@Rippthrough
2 жыл бұрын
For some parts like functional TPU parts I use a welding nozzle and regulator with argon to give an inert gas flow over the part - stops the TPU oxidising at the higher temps used for high speed extrusion and gives layer bonding so strong parts that fail often fail through mulitiple layers rather than at the joint - might be one to try, you don't need much gas flow, 3-4L/min. Just beware of pumping CO2 or argon into a sealed room, of course.
@paulstrealer5414
2 жыл бұрын
Could be an easy solution to gas wastage on very long prints if you just flooded and purged an enclosed chamber with inert gas, like when welding up a gas tank.
@OrtexVideos
2 жыл бұрын
I think you could improve strength if you dual extruded a part with a PETG or ABS outer shell and 100% infill of PLA, then heated the part above the glass transition temperature of PLA but below that of the outer shell. This would allow the PLA core to fuse but the detail of the model to not be disrupted. (Please like this comment so that Stefan sees it! 😊)
@ianspam649
2 жыл бұрын
Interesting idea, seems possible.
@proungoods818
2 жыл бұрын
Someone needs to try this, it seems like a simple idea but I have never seen it done.
@gretakenaston1964
2 жыл бұрын
This is such a genius idea, i have to see it in action since i don’t have the supplies to test it myself!!
@EphemeralPseudonym
2 жыл бұрын
iirc even below glass transition many polymers still deform under any stress
@alexbeardmore3588
2 жыл бұрын
If I want a structural plastic part, I 3D print the shell and fill it with epoxy resin. If I want a really strong part, I also put chopped fibre glass in before I fill with epoxy.
@Lucas_sGarage
2 жыл бұрын
Thx for the idea!
@jvleugels
2 жыл бұрын
Print the parts with a hole in the center and thread a long bolt into them. It might seem as a cheat. But many people oversee this solution despite it being the most easy one to achieve. A hole of 3.1mm in the bottom and 2.7 in the top part is perfect for a 3mm bolt.
@xSiliconKnightx
2 жыл бұрын
The more videos I watch about 3D printing, it seems that the majority of the community is not interested in actually designing things, just messing around with the printers.
@Anonymous-qx5uk
2 жыл бұрын
@@xSiliconKnightx yep, I am guilty of that too. But its fun to get a cheap ender and upgrade the shit out of it. I am at the final stage tho, just need a dual Z axis and I can sleep again.
2 жыл бұрын
That's why I bought a roll hanger strap for, putting it in slots in prints. Now I honestly haven't used it yet though, it would only be needed for huge parts with huge need for strength.
@animatorgeek
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for making the effort to post the video even with it not having worked.
@TheBigryder100
2 жыл бұрын
Usually just leave holes for screws and nuts. Works incredibly well and widens the range of use for 3d printers quite a bit.
@mythrail
2 жыл бұрын
I've always wondered if you could increase layer adhesion using a laser to heat the area that the extrusion is supposed to bond to in advance, and maybe keep it at a specific temperature during / after extrusion for a bit. Probably no better than a heated enclosure, but the pinpoint heat might mean you can get the surface to just slightly melt without risking the whole part.
@ILoveTinfoilHats
2 жыл бұрын
Just printing slow can do this, the nozzle will heat up what's around it. The part cooling fan reduces this effect though
@SamChaneyProductions
2 жыл бұрын
Yep, that or a strongly directed hot air nozzle
@rustybucket2248
2 жыл бұрын
Hi Stephan, working on another 3D printing process we found that using a rotary planer was necessary to make an absolutely flat layer interface with a know Z height. The rotary planer was the width of the Y stage. If you look at the cutter of a wide wood planer it is a spiral cutter with a vacuum shroud to remove the dwarf generated. The cuts need to be very thin or you will be breaking off pieces of the part in process. In practice it may require a sacrificial support and infill material to make the planing robust for all possible parts, but for well behaved geometry’s like a cube it is not necessary. A straight forward implementation for a bed slinger is to affix the planer to the Z carriage with a high speed motor for the planer and a stepper driving a torque tube with matching cam lobes at each end to move the planer up and down relative to the z carriage. Just some thing to think about. Cheers.
@Bigman74066
2 жыл бұрын
As plastic tends to stick best when it's liquid, it might be a good idea to heat up (re-melt) the previous layer before laying the new molten plastic bead on it. Heating could be done by a laser.
@MeepChangeling
2 жыл бұрын
And blinding the consumer will be done by that laser. This is only viable in a full enclosure printer. Preferably with 100% opague sides.
@WunderBertrand
2 жыл бұрын
Although it’s quite barbaric you could use a soldering iron to melt a few vertical lines for a bit more strength. I sometimes do this when I know a part is likely to split at a specific point and it seems to help.
@Lil_Puppy
2 жыл бұрын
perhaps a modification to the print head to include an acetone vapor to the layer after the deposition would be more automated and optimal. A small bottle of acetone, a small air pump, and a tube attached to the print head to follow the layer deposition.
@jimsym88
2 жыл бұрын
i believe that to but there is a safety issue here for fire because aeton and other liquids like that start to burn from the fumes around them and with that method you will have a lot of fumes and oxygen
@Asak999
2 жыл бұрын
Or we could take the opposite route, instead of trying to melt the plastic with a solvent we could use some kind of substance to help with adesion like some kind of glue or epoxy.
@bradleymorgan8223
2 жыл бұрын
my sophomore year of college, i brought my 3d printer with me when i moved into my dorm. it was printing primarily ABS, and in order to combat bed warping, i had to seal all of my vents and keep it almost sauna-hot in that room. fortunately i had a private bedroom, joined with 3 others by a community living room and kitchen. With the hot room and no drafts, i was able to get a bunch of very nice prints :D
@dinglebop9998
2 жыл бұрын
I would personally attempt running the test again, but with the acetone through a sponge (that is resistant to acetone), as used to be done with oiling prints
@ProtonOne11
2 жыл бұрын
🔥⚠
@CNCKitchen
2 жыл бұрын
Good idea but I think that would just gunk everything up^^
@petrbrandejs9183
2 жыл бұрын
I think you could leave small holes in the print and extrude a bit of (rough?) heated wire through them in the Z direction, then cut it just above the last layer. This would stitch the layers together at a few places. The extruding and cutting could be done with a single toolhead and the wires could either be short, or longer and straightened by pulleys before their extrusion. There are printers that can automagically lay glass or carbon fiber in the XY direction, so this could be quite achievable. More complex than brushing the parts with acetone, but certainly possible. I think you could modify filament extruders and nozzles to make the system easier to make.
@Anya-Prime
2 жыл бұрын
Post-tensioned polymer? That sounds like a fun experiment, and it’s funny how composite material strategies cross over from concrete for example
@tylerduncan5908
2 жыл бұрын
Im sure this has been tried, but what if you had a wave shaped layer instead of a flat plane for a layer? The direction of adhesion would vary throughout the width of the print and de-localize the weaknesses made by the individual layers I know this would be difficult to create a path but if possible seems useful.
@ChristopherWlezien
2 жыл бұрын
Possibly a 3d version with pyramids for even more interface surface, kind of like that egg crate foam
@Inventorsquare
2 жыл бұрын
If each wave was ‘out of phase’ from their neighbor laterally, there would be contact between many layers. If anyone wants to mess with it they could see about using G2 arcs in loops while using XZ and YZ plane selection modes, or perhaps the latter but using code from generated gyroid fill. Would take some automation or perseverance to make it, especially considering fading from flat build plate.
@zumuvtuber
2 жыл бұрын
In my opinion failures are even more important than successes, because with each failure you're closer to the path to success. Solvents may not necessarily be the way to better layer adhesion, but other untested methods might. Loved the video, great stuff as usual! 🙌
@thataerakul7096
2 жыл бұрын
I have idea where you might able to make your own very long nozzle and give another test on the non planer 3D printing.
@thataerakul7096
2 жыл бұрын
the layers attentions might be improve if you put some hole in the middle to inject some astone inside might be interesting for muti holes too.
@ITpanda
2 жыл бұрын
I don't have a 3D printer, but I wonder if changing the infill pattern between each layer would help. Maybe 60° rotation from each previous layer. Would also be interested in knowing if printing infill layers with small segments missing (--- --- --- ---) so next infill layers could slow at these points to push material into voids to add strength to the part
@woodywiest
2 жыл бұрын
I am aware that the solvent breaks the polymer chains which results in smoothing but reduces strength of the surface, sometimes going quite deep during smoothing. Painting on the solvent is probably the same effect. Thanks for the video!
@aaronsteers
2 жыл бұрын
Here's an idea that would take a ton of programming, basically would require a custom slicer to be built: converse concentric print patterns. For a print with three walls: 1. Print the inner wall with a counter clockwise grade. 2. Print the outer wall with a clockwise grade. 3. Print the middle wall as an over extrusion between the two others. The idea here would be that by introducing opposite-direction slope on the inner and other walls, we would create structural reinforcement. However, because layer heights discrepancies would create problems for the print nuzzle "bumping" parts of the print on the converse pass. Hence the need for an inner buffer wall that must be filled in afterwards via a slight overextrusion between the two other walls. A similar approach would not use concentric opposing directionality, but would break the wall area into sloped curved rectangular cross-layers. Like a cylinder where each layer is like a circle of collapsed dominoes layering on top of each other diagonally.
@evanbarnes9984
2 жыл бұрын
"a 3d printer that is a tool and not the project" is exactly why I bought a Prusa recently. I absolutely love tinkering and building things, but want my tools to actually work well. It hasn't disappointed!
@GianmarioScotti
2 жыл бұрын
Publishing negative results is extremely useful. This should be the case also in scientific research.
@ellisgl
2 жыл бұрын
Next up: Super Glue per layer.
@tjorvegro9651
2 жыл бұрын
you could ad a part to your g-code that slowly pushes the nozzle in the print at diferent points. it could "stich" the layers together
@QEngineering
2 жыл бұрын
Cool test. Love how you're still using that test rig. Keep up the good work !!
@GolemShadowsun
2 жыл бұрын
Idea: Like ironing but the other way: after the layer is done, the nozzle should poke little holes/intents in the surface, so that it roughens up the surface so the next layer is potential able to get a mechanical interlock between the layers.
@robinnowlan
2 жыл бұрын
I suppose to improve layer adhesion you would in essence either have to increase bonding strength or increase layer area. Strength would require material or chemical change like you did here but area could be improved by software or a slight hardware mod. One idea I had was to have a slightly serrated/jagged nozzle (really small bumps) so that the plastic being extruded leave a bumpy surface rather than a completely flat one that would allow for a greater surface area and perhaps better shear resistance (The ridges interlocking rather than just sliding). The hard part is you would likely need to print at a higher temp and closer extrusion to ensure that the new layer of plastic fills the gap left by the ridges of the previous layer (eg. each layer squishes into the ridges of the layer bellow whilst leaving a ridged top surface) and to remove the ridges on the very top layer ironing could be used to smooth out the layer.
@GreenFox1505
2 жыл бұрын
No, Stefan, I was not actually wondering if you putting solvent on every layer would make it strong. Because that would be insane and who would do that. I mean, I'm wondering that NOW, but like, I never thought that before. You are truly a mad lad.
@xxcrankflipxx716
2 жыл бұрын
I know this would be a bit tricky to pull of but I think getting the iso or acetone into a fogger (that's safe) and using a hose to gently hit each layer with fog would work better. In theory it should greatly reduce evaporation time and has the added bonus of being doable while the part continues to print. Still a bit of a stretch but hey it's an idea. Also somehow making the layers print smoother might help too, more details = more places for the liquid to pool and soften the layers above and below. Great video, thank you for the work!
@Personnenenparle
Жыл бұрын
On a similar note, i wonder if there would be any benefit to add ironing to every single layers! Maybe similar to transparent printing, i wonder if it would increase slightly strength and make even very thin walls water tights 100% of the time
@francistaylor1822
2 жыл бұрын
I love how you are using a proper respirator mask when doing this!
@GarrettTrickey
Жыл бұрын
Hi Stefan, love your content. I was working on a project today and thought back to this video. My idea was what if rather than painstakingly apply acetone to each layer you instead created ducting that routed to your part cooling fan ducting which moved gaseous acetone across the area around the nozzle tip? I don't have the time, space, or equipment to test this, but I thought I'd throw my name in the hat.
@moltenclay
2 жыл бұрын
So as you noticed, the layers where the acetone seemed to expand the layer below such that the nozzle has to push around the plastic out to the sides when printing the new layer. That reminded me of how separate pieces of clay are conjoined using the 'score and slip' method. Where you scratch up the two pieces of clay you are joining, and attach them with dissolved clay (clay dust and water solution). What if in the code, for a nearly 100% infill print, after you printed a layer you told the nozzle to go down a tiny bit and rake a crosshatch pattern into the recently printed layer, then return back up to print the next layer. You'd be greatly increasing the surface area those two layers are conjoined by and might increase the strength. This combined with acetone might be even more effective. You'd almost certainly loose dimensional accuracy but still.
@Krmpfpks
2 жыл бұрын
My idea for better layer adhesion is to make the layers nonplanar. E.g. leave gaps between the lines of the first layer and then fill them with the second layer adding some Z movement or maybe even add height to parts of a layer by intentionally overextruding. Finding patterns that work and interlock the layers well will probably take some effort, but I bet there is some improvement to be made. I wish I had the time and the measuring tools to test that.
@dman8734
2 жыл бұрын
I reckon it's worth playing with annealing. IIRC ABS doesn't anneal much, but other materials do - and it's basically standard procedure for the fancy materials like PEKK and PPS.
@kkuhn
2 жыл бұрын
For the vertical layer samples which are like cones, you need to disregard samples that failed outside of the sampling region (aka any point except the thinnest point) because it means there is a some kind of flaw/anisotropy in the material at that point and is not representative of the material itself
@zeDoSauRus
2 жыл бұрын
Great video! For better layer bonding I think we should have much more precise fan cooling in the slicer. We need the fan when bridging and with fine detail, but when we want to bond it better it would be better with a minimum fan setting maybe?
@bipolarchemist
2 жыл бұрын
We cured our thin film samples spun from PMMA or PC in chlorinated solvents in a vacuum oven overnight at 60°C. In theory, I believe the dehydrator should work as well and I'm not entirely convinced the results are due to residual solvent. My thoughts are leaning more towards the solvent not having a chance to properly dissolve material at the interface leading to am improper solvent weld. The fact that you mentioned in some cases the material from the previous layer was moved by the nozzle also leads me to suspect that most of the material primed for proper welds may have been displaced (possibly due to material swelling) resulting in a bond that was worse than the original. I do like the stitching idea as similar techniques are used to attach problematic polymers together, like maybe using the nozzle to 'tack weld' the layers together by creating a few divots in the previous layer for material to flow in. Do it in a random pattern and it may add strength and it would probably be easier (and safer) than adding a solvent handling system for brushing some sort of welding agent on between layers. We just need an accessible 6DOF printer so that we can print a core in one direction and print the shell/perimeter in another one.
@cesarplaton8284
2 жыл бұрын
Dear Stefan, Rotating head or rotating table you choose!!!! you can't "weld" and cool at the same time, do you do it like that with tin? the impression must always advance in the same direction to be able to point a laser at the joint and cool the layer later. You can also use a 20,000-turn spindle with a tapered-end milling cutter used to make printed circuits. The material will be heated by friction and will generate a V-groove where you deposit the new material. 3d printers are a design compromise, not the best design and they still do a great job. Excellent channel, great job!!!
@moosazafar1153
Жыл бұрын
i just thought of this idea while printing, and went on the web to see if anyone had done it and ofcourse cnc kitchen had lol! good video!
@phaniavireddy
2 жыл бұрын
Stefan, you've done extensive tests on filament strength and how they handle temperatures. How about testing same with pressure ? There could be an application where 3d printed parts can be used as connectors, adaptors in pneumatic systems.
@tenchuu007
2 жыл бұрын
For stitching, a hot wire in front of the nozzle heating the previous layer to near melting before the nozzle spooges the next layer immediately out, putting both layers at melting point when printed.
@LegoDan2002
2 жыл бұрын
For the question at 10:00 - for texturing layers, maybe a noise or fuzzy texture along the +z axis could lock or stitch several layers together.
@ezurth
2 жыл бұрын
one thing i can think of for layer texturing is perhaps a few small bumps/ spikes on the nozzle around 1/10th your layer height and running it a bit slower. i could see this potentially creating a larger surface area of contact along with heating the plastic right before the new plastic is pressed into it. i would love to see you test this because as of now all my nozzles are ruby tipped.
@gendragongfly
2 жыл бұрын
There is definitely under utilized potential in slicer software to improve layer adhesion. Besides all of the settings you already mentioned at the beginning of the video: higher temperature, slower printing speed and less cooling. To increase bonding between layers the mixing of the hot molten plastic needs to be improved. This can be accomplished by: • Printing layers while moving the nozzle up and down should improve mixing and put more heat into the plastic (basically stabbing the hot nozzle down into the previous layer and pulling it back out). • Having a nozzle that isn't flat but spikey will also improve mixing (stiring up the previous layer while putting on the next). • Printing layers in spiral patterns, so the nozzle touches the same area more often and for longer. I really hope you can test these techniques, unfortunately slicer software seems to be more oriented towards good looking prints rather than getting strong isotropic mechanical properties.
@novicereloader
2 жыл бұрын
The patience required for this should be studied by neurological psychology departments worldwide.
@wktodd
2 жыл бұрын
Layer strength is presumably proportional to area , so anything that reduces voids ( more squish!) would help. There is also a stress riser where each rounded section joins the one below, so smoothing that may help. Ultimately though, it is the bond between layers that is the problem. Improving the bond would require both the new layer and the previous one to be at the same plastic state so perhaps a point source heater (IR spot /laser ?) to increase the temperature at the interface without melting the whole stack would work?
@cavemaneca
2 жыл бұрын
An idea similar to the vapor smoothing, but what if you put them into a pressurized chamber with the solvent vapors?
@kenmagalnik6596
2 жыл бұрын
Stephan, what if, after printing a few layers the head moved to the center of the internal void between the layers or the infill and extruded a large blob to fill in the void. The print head can also move down by a layer of so relying on the taper of the nozzle for clearance. Some fancy slicer work will need to be done for complex shapes, but can be tried manually for simple ones. The blobs large thermal mass might help it bond to the walls and blobs below it, while the walls can be printed at lower temp with more cooling for better appearance.
@appye7994
Жыл бұрын
I am brand new to 3d printing. My new ender 3d s1 should arrive Tuesday. One idea I have had is perhaps not printing layers directly on top of one another, rather more like bricks are stacked on top of one another. This way, each layer is bonded to multiple layers, rather than the one just on top and just on bottom. I could see this increasing strength in some cases, but not applying to everything. Likely this has been done before.
@tammyhollandaise
2 жыл бұрын
Perhaps try ironing each layer with a chunk of hot metal? I managed to salvage several 300x300 prints on the first couple of layers when I spotted separation from the bed. I tossed steel in the oven set at slightly hotter than the extrusion temp, then kept it from sticking to the print by using parchment paper. If that yields results, a patterned iron to introduce small peaks and valleys to each layer might improve bonding.
@Drenth_Engineering
2 жыл бұрын
I've built a Voron V2 and with the enclosure shut and printing at high speeds I really get the feeling I'm getting unparalleled layer adhesion with materials like PC, PETG and ABS. I would like to see if printing at very high speeds in an enclosure really does improve layer adhesion.
@igbueno
2 жыл бұрын
I think one of the reasons of the low adhesion with the glued layers is that looks that when the acetone evaporates it creates bubbles in the layers interfaces, and make the inner walls (between bubbles) even thinner... What if you use acetone vapor shooting by a nozzle right beside the extruder exit? You can heat the acetone in a recipient with some tube with a seringe needle on its tip and fix it in the printing head. Even the acetone is flammable, it's auto-ignition point is around 465 ºC, so I think it could be safe enough, so you wouldn't have the manual work and you would avoid the bubbles in the abs caused by the acetone evaporation (I think)
@adadadadadadadadadadadadadadad
2 жыл бұрын
in pottery the method is score and slip, in order to score each layer you could have a star of needles at the mouth of the nozzle, the added roughness alone may improve layer strength.
@JoeStoffa
2 жыл бұрын
My top 3 ideas (I know the first two will work): 1: Print with natural filament. Colorants often negatively affect layer adhesion. 2: You already tested this one, but a layer width to height ratio of 4:1 or greater will help. 3: You could try aging in an air fryer (convection oven) at 80-85C for an hour or two. That's the temperature of my heated chamber printer (Method-X), and my ABS interlayer strength seems better than what you're seeing (but I've never tested it in the exact same way as you).
@micahbusboom
2 жыл бұрын
Could maybe try writing a dynamic z-offset into the gcode to avoid too much nozzle ironing on each layer and maybe instead of having the print head move to the side after the layer, have it leave a perimeter or two unprinted so that you can lightly brush on the solvent and then the print finishes the layer with the two perimeters and moves onto the next. In my head, this could theoretically help to mitigate some of the squish-out of the material. My assumption is that the main problem is that the acetone on each layer solves one problem and creates another. It might solve the problem of layers bonding together, but it changes the structure of the material as a result of the foaming. Another thing you might try is annealing two samples. One control sample with no acetone treatment that is annealed and another sample with acetone treatment that undergoes annealing. The idea being that maybe annealing would allow the material structure to order itself post-obliteration from acetone foaming.
@micahbusboom
2 жыл бұрын
Could maybe also try diluting the acetone in IPA to limit over modifying the structure while improving interlayer drying performance.
@alainthire
2 жыл бұрын
What about repeating and adjusting the process of filling prints through holes in it (originally using resin, embedded in the chosen infill of preference) but using diluted solvent instead?
@wilsonvk8668
2 жыл бұрын
Just a thought, but what do you think about printing every even number layer (2,4,6,...) with less flow on the infill leaving gaps, and every uneaven number of layers (3,5,7,...) with a bit of overflow on the infill, except the first layer to avoid elephant foot and assure good bonding with the bed. It would only be posible with 100% infill parts, but this way you may be able to make plastic flow into the gaps you left in the previous layer, making "hooks" that mechanically grip each layer. I don't know if you can do that with the slicer though, or eaven if the plastic would be able to behave like thay. But if it can I think it would help. Great video man, love your content and always learning something! 💪👍
@jean-marcfraisse7191
2 жыл бұрын
I'm not into 3D printing at all (yet), here are my two cents though: do you think that some sort of "interleaving" would be worth a try? A (very rough) explanation of what I mean by "interleaving": let's assume that you want to print a 3 layer part, say, a basic cylinder - thus, three layered discs. Instead of printing (side view ascii simulation here ^^) the 3 disc/layers sequentially, this "interleaving" approach would consist in printing a very short "U" shape as a first pass (two layers: - - __ ), and after that, a very short "T" (two layers as well, __ - ): those two shapes once combined/stacked would then give the same result as the 3 layered discs, except that the horizontal bond between the three disc layers would be "converted" to a mix of horizontal bonds (the bar and the bottom of the stem of the T being bound, respectively, to the tips and to the inner bottom of the U) and vertical bonds (the stem of the T being bound to the "stems" of the U, vertically), which should, theorically increase the mechanical strengh in the Z axis... I've made a quick sketch because my explanation is not very good, a picture will be much clearer ^^ app.sketchtogether.com/s/sketch/38YMw.8.1/ (Edit: this will not last long, so here's a picture: pasteboard.co/ZRNDYKICt5Cq.png ) I took a 3 layer example here, but, to be honest, I think that for this approach to be effective, more layers should be used for the U/T shapes (in order to increase the height thus the vertical adhesion of the two "parts"), but this would depend on the feasibility for each printer model (ie: would the nozzle have enough space to "dive" down to the previous, lower levels without causing issues with the previously printed "walls", ... I'm not sure if any printer model is able to "pour" a defined volume of melted material to "fill" the holes? That would allow the printer to avoid any "diving" operation) Of course, this cylinder "pattern" could/should be repeated both horizontally and vertically (stacked) within the whole, final 3D printed part, with more or less horizontal offset depending on the required material usage and the overall expected sturdiness.
@shanejensen3497
2 жыл бұрын
You could try weaving in a material that is perpendicular to the layer lines. Similar to how concrete has rebar. The part could be designed to leave hollow cavities in the body that you could insert the strengthening material. This might have to be done every so many layers and then epoxied in place. Is it possible to inject the melted plastic into a cavity? That could allow for some interesting internal designs to improve strength.
@Jbearzy
2 жыл бұрын
Bless your soul for testing this
@OneDollarWilliam
2 жыл бұрын
I don't know how you would acquire such a thing, but my first thought is that 3d printer nozzles are like standard round cake icing tips. Icing tips, of course, come in a variety of shapes based on application: open star, closed star, ruffle, leaf, and basketweave are all part of the basic kit, and while directional tips like leaf and basketweave would only work with very specific designs and very carefully written gcode an open star tip (if such a thing existed) could easily be swapped in for a round nozzle, and the the extra surface area could possibly improve layer adhesion.
@EnricoConca
2 жыл бұрын
I think that for ABS the layer adhesion gets better if the layer on top prints while the previous layer is still hot. It might be interesting to check the layer adhesion versus print speed... I have a feeling that printing faster will improve the layer adhesion. Maybe testing a very fast printer like a VORON compared to a normal speed printer like a MK3s could be interesting as well.
@MrGerhardGrobler
2 жыл бұрын
Interesting. Same with PETG, no fan so the filament is still hot when the next layer goes on. Making PETG prints stronger on average. I only recently started on PETG after only PLA.
@havenview
2 жыл бұрын
I've sucessfully used this method with ABS. Model a 2mm hole vertically through the object. After printing, soak a piece of bare filament in acetone for a few seconds and then insert it into the hole so it welds creating an ABS pin through the model
@shahargazala1839
2 жыл бұрын
Hay, thank you for your videos. I didn't try this, but maybe if you pierce the layers with that hot end itself. Like after each layer add a command that's down the hot end a foue layers. If you pick some strategic point you can make a solid trail of plastic that's hopefully will be help to make a strong prints.
@joeyjones4535
2 жыл бұрын
Just a suggestion, there are isopropyl alcohol in pens for cleaning. It's possible to model and mount for those that can be mounted on the hotend. If it's directly in line with the nozzle on the x axis, all you would need to do is print 2 of the same models on the same gcode, and the printer would automatically draw with the pen on top of the first model while it prints the second model. That would give you a control with each print and automate the whole process.
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