A long capacitive strip along the top would be a nice brightness slider.
@hemerythrin
Жыл бұрын
When you brought up using stainless steel for your connector piece: Stainless steel has very low thermal conductivity for a metal (carbon steel is ~3x higher, aluminium is ~10x higher). Probably won't be a problem at 10W and with the heat pipe doing the heavy lifting, but just something to keep in mind :)
@nealkephrey8179
2 жыл бұрын
I really like your story telling keep up the good work
@StevenBennettMakes
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Neal, I really appreciate that :) Thanks for following along from day one!
@jeralm
Жыл бұрын
That is such a cute tiny MeanWell psu! I'm more use to seeing their big brothers on 3D printers
@SamMason0
Жыл бұрын
Just found your series, fun stuff! An observation on the brightness control is that the human visual system tends to work on a log scale. E.g. the change from 25 to 50% will look much larger than the one from 75% to full brightness. I'd suggest something like 12, 25, 50, 100%.
@StevenBennettMakes
Жыл бұрын
Good call, Sam! I'll have to take that into account as I finalize the code, thanks for the suggestion :)
@SamMason0
Жыл бұрын
@@StevenBennettMakes it's "just" code so it's much easier to iterate on! I've got the volume and brightness controls on my computer using a dB scale as well and it's much nicer to interact with. not sure why it's not more common
@duodot
Жыл бұрын
That's an interesting point! Did not know that. Huh.
@eeng4234
Жыл бұрын
Love how well you explain things. So…how did Fox, rabbit and lettuce get across? 😂
@maxsharapov8694
2 жыл бұрын
Man, really great! Thank you for such videos!
@niceatpingpong
Жыл бұрын
I'm stoked to follow this project! I was wondering if you considered using t-nuts to bolt the LED mount directly to the aluminum extrusion. This would prevent having to create a separate part. I would probably put a thin copper shim between the LED and the extrusion to aid in the heat transfer. Also, consider changing the LED slightly. Moving from the "E" series to the "F" series increases the efficiency by ~10% from 122 lm/W to 135 lm/W. If you like the brightness of the "E" series, running the "F" at ~91% power would yield the same brightness. More watts converted to lumens means less watts that need to be dissipated as heat. Also, under-driving LEDs increases their lifespan quite a bit. E-series: L2C5-35901203E0900 F-series: L2C5-35901203F0900 I think if you bolt the LED directly to the extrusion, you won't need the heat pipe, I would test it out. My gut tells me that the heat pipe will only really help to spread the heat out across the arm a bit, but I don't think it will result in a significant improvement. If it works, that'll make the project a bit less expensive.
@jpa3141
Жыл бұрын
With 80 CRI, even 220 lm/W efficiency is achievable, e.g. Osram OSCONIQ series. The reduction in heat output is even larger - at 3500K 1200 lm output, a 122 lm/W LED gives 6 W heat; 135 lm/W LED gives 5W heat and 220 lm/W LED gives only 1.5 W heat.
@GreatWhiteNiko
Жыл бұрын
The constant current drivers are not really constant current under certain voltage range and certain consumer (the LED). Above that range they do keep the current stable. I run LEDs that require 36.1V with 45V and the drivers keep the current at 350 mA. But in the range 35-36.1 I can adjust the current that the LED uses by just adjusting the power supply that feeds the drivers. See for yourself - vary the voltage and check the current and you will see that it depends on the voltage. So by adjusting the voltage you can drive LEDs that require weird currents (like 170 mA or 260 mA etc). Also - I don't know what the original Dyson lamp is but it is really practical if the head (where the LED is) can swivel left/right and be angled back/forward too - full flexibility.
@bryanhaynes6145
Жыл бұрын
Hey man, you are doing amazing. Just this far into the series the quality of your content is amazing and very interesting to follow. Keep up the good work keep doing you
@voncheeseburger
Жыл бұрын
a rotary encoder with a button would be cool for brightness control
@Sendrim
Жыл бұрын
Yes! A stepless knob mounted on a ballbearing without resistance. I have one of those with a really heavy brass knob which can spin for minutes if I really crank it! Rotr I think it's called. 👍
@chrisracer2007
4 ай бұрын
I would suggest that you get the nichia led since it is probably more colour acupuncture than the Dyson, plus look the hole colour spectrum, r9 is a tricky one!
@Omar_Cubing
Жыл бұрын
You are very inspiring! Keep going 😊
@widowmakerdesign
Жыл бұрын
This just reinforces how dumb I am about LEDS. Great info, thank you.
@maxsharapov8694
2 жыл бұрын
I am also considering making a lamp that kinda goes beyond dyson design. Do you think it would be possible to put the counterweights inside the aluminium profile to make them invisible? So I would put them in both axis to make the whole con structure totally balanced and weightless for adjustments. What do you think?
@StevenBennettMakes
2 жыл бұрын
Hey Max! I think it's theoretically possible (and a cool idea) to fit a counterweight inside of an aluminum profile, especially using a larger profile (20x40 or more) which have that hollow bit inside. I think the biggest challenges will be 1. Getting the counterweight to move smoothly (you likely can't fit wheels in there) and 2. Adding enough weight to counter the opposing arm in such a tight space. I bet these are both totally surmountable given some creativity so I hope you give it a shot :)
@stevenshizzle
Жыл бұрын
impressive. I love this.
@prxrb
Жыл бұрын
Heads up, you may want to design around adjustability instead of precision for the 3d printed metal parts, especially because you want this design to be reproducible by people all over the world who have access to very different fab houses
@StevenBennettMakes
Жыл бұрын
Turns out it's even hard to get this fabricated accurately here in the US! I'll be making some updates to that part to make it more reproducible. Thanks for calling this out :)
@Modern-Crafts
Жыл бұрын
I noticed the constant current LED driver you have linked in the description would not be suitable. I was confused how you could drive the LED with 1A @ 12V. The version in the video description can only step the voltage down and is missing the buck-boost converter. After realising this, it makes a lot more sense :D
@berberger4814
Жыл бұрын
How is the noise emission? I used/tested a lot of these meanwell dc dc drivers and at a 4khz pwm, they make a lot of noise (also the datasheet of most of those mw drivers says 1khz max frequency, and I can confirm that the switching edges start to wash out at around 16khz) Edit: I think I can hear it on 12:35
@StevenBennettMakes
Жыл бұрын
...yeah :(
@TeAwsomeCo
Жыл бұрын
there's heat resistant resins for sla printing. might be cheaper than metal 3D print
@allenmueller
Жыл бұрын
Color Rendering Index: The measurement of CRI is not internationally standardized. We assume “95 CRI” means 95% color accuracy across the entire spectrum of light. For this to be true, the measurement should be calculated based on 15 reference colors specified by ANSI as R1-R15. The majority of manufacturers and retailers use a “CRI-Ra”calculation, which is the accuracy of ANSI colors R1-R8 averaged. Conveniently, R9 is the exact part of the spectrum where most LED struggle: Red. If you have ever seen a person, food or anything with warm tones in it lit by truly high CRI (“95 CRI” is true for red, not just the first 8 colors) you will notice the difference. It’s huge, but it’s hard to describe. If you paint, draw or do any kind of creating, this is eye opening. Unfortunately, just about any LED labeled “CRI 95” can drop as low as CRI 80 when their red score is factored in. Your project is special, so I would make sure it’s a true CRI, not CRI Ra. Not easy to do, because it’s not enforced in many places. Especially in the US. Love this channel, do your thing, sorry about the tl;dr… 😅
@allenmueller
Жыл бұрын
There’s a vague disclosure in the datasheet for Lumiled Luxeon series CoB: “R9 value of 90CRI products is >50.” (It’s probably around 60 for the 16x19.)
@Ahnii
Жыл бұрын
Awesome build! Always had an eye on the Dyson lamp, and now I'm already sketching my own ideas:) Can you recommend any LED with variable color temp. ?
@taylormaine201
Жыл бұрын
Those are easy to find. Working out the drivers for a tunable white LED is not so simple. Most tunable white LEDs can run either channel at 100%, or both at 50%, so you would have to add code that regulates dimming of the two LED drivers so as to never exceed 100% total current. Second problem is the LED holder. They're hard to find in 4-wire versions that support a 2-color LED. Start with the proper holder and work your way back a compatible 2-color LED. It would be easier to just use two separate LEDs with independent dimming and let them both go to 100% if you want.
@logic0905
Жыл бұрын
You can try 3D printing with UV resin. It seems to be much more temperature tolerant.
@user-gl4fx1ps3y
2 жыл бұрын
Hey man. I think you can add a Wi-Fi control module to make the light add to the HomeKit
@user-gl4fx1ps3y
2 жыл бұрын
What do you think?
@StevenBennettMakes
2 жыл бұрын
That's cool! Great idea, I'll have to look into that :) Thanks for the suggestion
@christianmarkussen6412
Жыл бұрын
Great project and I love your vlog on your build process. One thought is the "power supply" for the LED is rather large. Not entirely sure what kind of output it provides but maybe if you provide the correct voltage for the LED and use a MOSFET as a switch then the overall volume of the electronics can be reduced quite a bit. You can get very compact voltage regulator for the electronics if that is needed.
@StevenBennettMakes
Жыл бұрын
I agree! Way too bulky :) Functionally it just outputs a constant current of 300mA at or above the LED's forward voltage (34.5 V... which is admittedly kind of high). Stay tuned for the next video where I should talk about a more compact solution that I found.
@el_micha
Жыл бұрын
Yes the LED PSU is very large. Maybe a smaller one might also work… Idk if there's a constraint of having the PSU close to the LED. If not, the PSU could happily live in the base of the lamp, no?
@gabrielenitti3243
Жыл бұрын
LEDs are current driven and not with voltage, you need a constant current regulator, not a voltage one
@gabrielenitti3243
Жыл бұрын
Hi, how did you ensure proper thermal contact between both led to heatpipe and heatpipe to aluminum frame?
@StevenBennettMakes
Жыл бұрын
Haven't covered this yet but I plan to use thermal adhesive to attach the heatpipe to the aluminum extrusion (hoping to transfer head from the pipe into the arm to use it as a sort of heat sink). Between the LED and the heatpipe I'll use some thermal paste like you'd find on a PC CPU.
@ergo4216
Жыл бұрын
Hello! In your journey of COB LEDs, have you learned anything about grow LEDs? LEDs with specific wavelength characteristics. I've been contemplating designing my own low profile dimmable grow led with heat pipes similar to yours.
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