Mam gdx 4 i nie mogę pozbyć się problemu losowego efektu brum na głośniki,likwidowałem pętle masy ,podłączyłem kablem nie symetrycznym i dalej problem,ktoś ma jakiś pomysł?
@percysalazar3443
2 ай бұрын
What is the issue?
@pexies
3 жыл бұрын
2:54 Electrolytic capacitor is broken (upper-left)
@fassesweden
3 жыл бұрын
Which one?
@pexies
3 жыл бұрын
@@fassesweden KZitem comments = no picture possible. Just check @timestamp the upper left one near the red cables. To fix problems like this or similar is easy. The qsc gxd 8 is a really powerful and nice amp. using some for my home cinema and for pa subwoofer Outdoor.
@djfhills8632
2 жыл бұрын
Only the capacitor?????
@1krista1969
Жыл бұрын
What is the purpose of this video? Trying to visually find a fault in an advanced piece of gear like this isn't likely going to yield any results. Just waving the camera around won't get you far. How about checking some component values and voltage readings around the PS for starters?
@fassesweden
3 жыл бұрын
Did you find the fault?
@76139tins
2 жыл бұрын
power supply fault
@bisynthesis
2 жыл бұрын
@@76139tins can you elaborate at all on what was wrong with your unit? I'm debugging a power supply fault in the same model. Already replaced the big caps (2200uF & 4700uF) which improved the situation (unit goes into DC fault mode less often) however it's still occurring. The display and low voltage rails stay on but the high voltage rails switch off after 30-45minutes (you can hear the relay disengage) and the DC fault is displayed. I currently suspect it may be the caps near the relays and bridge rectifier but so far they are testing out ok. Thanks so much!
@1krista1969
Жыл бұрын
@@bisynthesis I would suspect all of the smaller decouping caps around the PS and output stages. This is a budget qsc product made in China and the caps are usually the first pieces they skimp on. Some good low esr hi ripple caps ie Nichicon UKZ would probably help. Also check for loose grounds. Be aware these amps don't like any DC on the ADC inputs, so it also can be a leaky input cap or even just a noisy pot.
@bisynthesis
Жыл бұрын
@@1krista1969 thanks! I actually found the issue and it was heat damage to the PCB around where this same cap was replaced in the video above. I ended up investigating more with a thermal camera (FLIR) and found that the front-left corner of the unit (when it's sitting flat, facing you) gets excessively hot even with the fan on. This is where the control electronics/safety circuits for the HV is located. Even without load it was reaching 110C+ after just minutes, well in excess of the 105C rated cap values. I replaced the capacitors in the area & repaired the broken trace in the PCB, but this alone was not enough. (Still got a DC fault/all HV rails switched off by safety relay after some minutes when the temp spiked) I added a second fan into the plastic brace the original fan mounts to, in this front/left corner and it has fully resolved the issue with temps not getting above 80C.
@richardleesmall
2 ай бұрын
@@bisynthesis by chance did you document adding the fan to your GXD8? I’d like to do the same. Do you remember the fan make/model? Did you pull power from the existing fan power leads?
Пікірлер: 15