The risk of the prusik (let’s call it what it is) on the leg loop isn’t fouling the belay device. It’s that when it touches the belay device it catastrophically releases
@AlessioDanubio
Жыл бұрын
This! (not a Prusik to be 100% correct, but a Machard, or Klemheist), when you are in a standing position it can look fine, but the moment you raise your legs and assume the rappel position the leg loop get closer to the belay loop and thus the bloking knot to the rappelling device, it's a very unsafe practice, one think to be secure but during the descent the third hand can loose grip without noticing making the knot useless (and probably you'll get nasty hands burns trying to catch the brake side of the rope at that point), so version one should be used as a "not to" example in my opinion.
@fitdoc565
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Dakota. As a beginner climber, this video was very informative. Interestingly, i rappel with both hands in the center line as you demonstrated at the end of the video. Thanks again.
@killercrabcake
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for helping me get into rappelling Dakota! Cheers
@Ky_yo
4 жыл бұрын
Music is what I expect to hear when arriving in heaven. Good Video though, thanks.
@johanndaniels3037
3 жыл бұрын
Really good stuff. Loving al the rappel videos.
@kawikah6301
3 жыл бұрын
It would be nice to see more close-ups of your setup as you explain the setups. Good info though!
@adaptivo3692
2 жыл бұрын
In response to some of the comments, this video has some useful stuff in it. I agree that specific terminology is helpful. I have never liked the phrase “hooking in.” I agree that close ups would be better, this video could have been shot close up in a back yard. The comment about using 7mm cord for loops is one I do not agree with and in 30 years climbing I have never seen anyone use 7mm prusiks. EN564 7mm cord is rated to 9.8kN which is roughly 980kg. Given that the function of this loop is to grip the rope, why would anyone require 9.8kN of grip force? Someone rightly commented that the important factor is the relationship between the cord and the rope(s) and how well it grips. 5mm will work fine if it’s 564 cord. I could be super controversial and say that roughing the sheath up with sandpaper slightly gives it superior grip but I won’t. As with any video, people criticise it for not being perfect. Watch a few and take what you feel is valuable to you. Practice safely and find your own way of doing it. Formal training is an option as well.
@LiveRogue
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the comment. We will be more mindful of the way we explain things.
@blackmist12345678
4 жыл бұрын
I use the connect my cordelet to a small locking carabiner which is attached to my strap for my leg loops, then I count three lops around the rope and connect the other end to my carabiner and lock it. That way it locks the rope before the cordelet gets locked up into your atc. Only thing is if you repell with the rope on your right side it has to be connected to your right leg strap that connects to the leg loop. Vicr versa if you repell left handed.
@christiandawson5031
5 жыл бұрын
If you extend your belay device, you might as well clip your auto block into your belay loop
@FourT6and22
5 жыл бұрын
He doesn't have a belay loop. Alpine harness.
@peakposse1906
3 жыл бұрын
Please demonstrate how to setup the second backup example using the Prusik knot. Great video, thank you.
@LiveRogue
3 жыл бұрын
No, problem. Thanks for being a part of the LiveRogue community.
@FreshWaterWindsurfer
4 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! What brand of jacket is that? Its nice
@LiveRogue
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching. Jacket is made by Ternua. It’s a Basque brand based in Spain.
@caldweller79
4 жыл бұрын
That's a rap. Very clever pun.
@Xtreme_Airgun_Slugs
4 жыл бұрын
Does anybody else run an autoblock on the brake hand side AND a prusik hitch above the belay rope feed? Or just me?
@LiveRogue
4 жыл бұрын
Never heard of running two backups.
@permapunter
4 жыл бұрын
Pretty non-standard rappel setups, misuse/confusing terminology "Tie in on rappel" "hook in on rappel" "cordalette" (when referring to short prusik loops), no discussion of basic safety procedures such as testing rappel setup prior to transfer off lanyard, ensuring knots on ends for dry rappels, at @4:30 using the 'third hand' as the only safety mechanism (hands-off) is pretty borderline. Luckily there are many good quality rappel instructional videos available.
@Nefi1996
3 жыл бұрын
The standard minimum for autoblocking knots with cord is 7mm please do not recomend using smaller diameters than that , you can use em under your own risk , it's ok but do not recomend it please
@LiveRogue
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for tge comment. Would enjoy seeing the standard that you are referencing. In our experience the size of prusik that you use is dependent on the size of rope that you have.
@riog4113
5 жыл бұрын
Why waste 5 minutes showing a less effective method, then correct yourself in the same video?
@LiveRogue
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for taking the time to comment.
@FourT6and22
5 жыл бұрын
So viewers get a clear idea of all the options.
@riog4113
5 жыл бұрын
Those are all of the options?
@FourT6and22
5 жыл бұрын
@@riog4113 Those are the two most common ones when it comes to setting up a rappel in this context. You either attach device directly to belay loop (or in this case the tie-in points since it's an alpine harness) and attach backup to leg loop, or you extend the rappel and attach backup to belay loop (in this case he kept it on his leg loop since he has no belay loop). What more do you want?
@riog4113
5 жыл бұрын
I could've been slightly less abrupt.. Seriously though, 8 minutes and I still don't know how to get down if I drop my ATC. Seems like good basic knowledge to convey.
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