Replacing a residential circulator pump can be an easy do-it-yourself job.
First, shut off the boiler and any electricity going to the system to make sure no power is running to the circulator. Then, disconnect the electrical supply by unscrewing the source and disconnecting the wires inside the junction box.
Next, Isolate the circulator by closing the shut-off valves if you have them, otherwise you will need to drain the system. This will reduce pressure around the circulator to 0 psi. Give the water time to cool to room temperature.
Remove the body bolts carefully. You may want to hold a bucket under the circulator or wrap it in a towel to catch any water that is still in the circulator body. Then, pull the circulator body out of the piping.
Be sure to put the flange gaskets on the new circulator pump. Mount the new circulator with the motor in a horizontal position and secure the body bolts with the junction box on top.
Observe all applicable codes when connecting to power supply. Either colored wire from the capacitor box can be attached to either colored wire from the power supply. There is no "hot" or "common" wire leading from the capacitor box. Typical installation would be to attach the white wire to the white power supply wire and the yellow or blue wire to the black power supply wire.
Once the circulator is installed, open the shut-off valves or fill the system back up with water. The system must be filled before operating the circulator. Most circulators are water lubricated and the bearings should not be allowed to operate dry.
Turn the power back on and operate the circulator for 5 minutes immediately after filling the system to purge remaining air from the bearing chamber. This is especially important when installing the circulator during the off-season.
If you have any reservations or questions, please consult a professional. For more information on circulator pumps please visit SupplyHouse.com or e-mail us with any questions.
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