I did some testing with Sayerlack Hydroplus 40 Sheen. Here is the schedule and the results from my initial testing: 12"x7" Black Walnut 12"x7" Rustic Alder 2'x2' Maple Ply w/ Minwax Oil Based Stain All samples were sanded 150-220 prior to first seal coat. All samples experienced very little (barley noticeable)grain raise after first seal coat IAW product data/application page. Noticeable color difference from the Kem-aqua on the walnut and alder. Provided a pleasing look vice a pale/dull look with Kem-Aqua. Not as warm or rich of tone you would see with a solvent based laquer or oil based poly, though it was cooler brown/natural color vice the warmer brown/rich tone of a oil based clear coat. As far as adhesion with oil based. There was no adhesion concerns the day of application. I will be conducting another test with dry times after stain application. The piece I used today was left over from a backer-board and had been stained and dried for 2 weeks. I've got some sample alder doors waiting for some Sherwood stain and will test on those. I plan on letting dry for 2-3 days after stain application. All samples powered out NICELY with 320 grit and subsequent coats were nicely laid and evenly set. Seal coat, sand 320, second coat, sand 320, third coat all dried in about 40 minutes. Everything was sprayed with a HVLP 2-turbine sprayer (Rockler brand) nothing fancy. Nice smooth finish. Great product for sure. Has it's place depending on color. I'm quite used to the warmer tones of oil based, though gives me a different perspective on color choice and overall look. Side note. The Kem-Aqua is still my favorite for clear coating maple, would not use on stain or natural woods though outside of maple or other clears.
@biglav6048
4 жыл бұрын
I took your advice and was able to swing a gallon of Saylerack Hydroplus 71 40 sheen. Funny to note, no-one knew what I was talking about, but was able to get the minds going on getting the product. Looking for your advice/recommendation on my planned finish schedule: Initial sand to 150 Grain raise with water, knock down with 220 Stain (will be using oil based Sherwood or miwax) Seal coat of Hydroplus, knock down to 320 and conduct 2-3 more coast. Do you see any issue with using oil based stain vice water-based? Not a fan of water-based stains.
@TheWoodCraftsman
4 жыл бұрын
Glad you were able to get some. As far as water over a solvent base or oil base stain, I would strongly discourage it without using some type of a barrier coat (typically a vinyl sealer). The Sherwood BAC or the new Sherwood SB S64 series might have a better chance, but the Miniwax has a lot of slow solvents in them. Something like ZInser clear shellac might work, but it would need to be tested. There is a pretty high risk of adhesion failure when using a WB finish over a solvent or especially slow solvent stain. It takes quite a while for them to dry out, not to mention tend to leave an oily residue when dry. In the event of a failure, they is pretty high chance that they will not warranty your work, which the number reason I do not mix and match any of my finishing systems. The Sherwood Water Reducible wipe stain isn't that bad for grain raise, especially with the pre-grain raising steps. If you are dealing with a SW OEM Product Finishes and not a local consumer contractor store, they can custom blend your WB wipe & spray stains for slower and faster flash times to help with work-ability. The stain I was trying in the video was designed for someone else. Let me know how it works. Scott
@biglav6048
4 жыл бұрын
@@TheWoodCraftsman Thanks for the quick response Steve! I'll do a little messing around. I did spray some maple ply with Kem Aqua over minwax oil based without any issue. I'm hesitant about water based stains over the lack of pigment or lack of that rich character.
@TheWoodCraftsman
4 жыл бұрын
The SW Sherwood water reducible stains are actually not bad at all for color. They are designed to give the same look as the Sherwood S64 series solvent stains. If anything, the WB finish lacks the warm tone if a stained finish. I would definitely reach out to who ever you got the Sayerlack HydroPlus from to see if they can get you a WB wipe stain sample. I would advise a lot of testing if using some other stain other than SW Sherwood Water Reducible stain for liability reasons. If your doing work for a customer and getting paid, and in the event of a failure, you will be the one liable for any rework or repairs. I'm not trying to steer you away, just want to make sure you are fully aware of the potentials I've seen in the past. Good luck! Scott
@philipedocarmo
7 жыл бұрын
Very nice ! Looks like a great finishing. Did you use a conditioner before starting?
@TheWoodCraftsman
7 жыл бұрын
+Philipe Do Carmo, I sprayed a preseal / washcoat consisting of 9 parts water, and 1 part Sayerlack Hydroplus on two of the four samples prior to stain.
@foogloo78
6 жыл бұрын
1. Thanks for creating and sharing this video. 2. It makes me realize just how little I know about spraying finishes, even after doing advance woodworking for a decade. LOL. 3. I love that nifty swivel paint stand you have! Did you make it?
@johnfrederickson3082
2 жыл бұрын
This is my favorite YT channel, but he makes me realize how stupid I am.
@grubbetuchus
7 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the upload. You are using an Airmix (AAA)? I have sprayed Sherwin-Williams waterbase with a conventional HVLP because this is what SW advised. The results were always, always never butt smooth. This was done in a factory setting, a furniture factory, not a cabinet factory. Every spray operator there got these same results. When you have a factory manager who is not himself a finisher, and you ask for and explain to him the need to try out AAA to get smooth, off-the-gun results, that will spell "deaf ears". Sayerlac waterbase cannot be that much different an animal then the regular SW waterbase, can it? I always enjoy your videos. All of the4m are valuable. I think that you know that as a trade, too many of us do not care to learn from others. It's no wonder that few of us do not undertand guns, or finsihes, one from another. Even the many talented ones among us don't care to learn any technology behind what we do.
@TheWoodCraftsman
7 жыл бұрын
+Big Swifty thank you for the comment. I prefer AAA for spraying clears in general. To your point about conventional HVLP, both the SW Sherwood Kem Aqua Plus and the Sayerlack Hydroplus give recommend settings for various spray applications, including AAA. For AAA, the PDS stated 450-850psi fluid pressure, 15-20psi atomization pressure, 0.011-0.013" tip orifice. Ironically, the SW Sherwood Kem Aqua Plus had the same specs in its PDS. I think the Sayerlack Hydroplus performs slightly better due to it has a significantly higher viscosity to help with a better vertical hang. I have sprayed the Kem Aqua Plus with HVLP and AAA, and felt the AAA was easier to use, and had a better feel ("hand") off of the gun. Thanks. Scott
@erickvaliente8158
6 жыл бұрын
What machine you using and where i can get one?
@TheWoodCraftsman
6 жыл бұрын
Hi, I'm using a Kremlin Airmix 10:1 air assisted airless for spraying the Sayerlack. It's a discontinued model that has been replaced by a newer model, Kremlin EOS C18. They are not cheap, a new model starts around $1800 and up. Sometimes an older Kremlin 10:14 shows up on eBay, but depending in the condition and weither it includes a gun or not the price can very for a unit that needs to be rebuilt or a unit ready to spray. It can be $150-1,000. Hope this helps. Scott
Пікірлер: 15