3 year old video but still helping people to this day! Now I'm using mine for powdercoat oven controll but I figured it would work in same settings that you showed. So far so good. I appreciate it!
@michelevitarelli
4 ай бұрын
I'm building a powder coating oven and this guide has immensely help me understand the settings. Thank you so much. My low limit was set high for some reason and I wasn't able to get the temperature that I needed. I was able to set it quickly just by watching this video. Thank you so much. It is greatly appreciated.
@dannynichols6276
23 күн бұрын
An absolute down to earth gentleman we are not interested in how iy works we are interested in making it work Kind Regards
@bpopovici9981
Жыл бұрын
this guy is the best teacher i haver ever come across \ thanks for the great job and hope all is well with yourself and your family
@howardlan3892
5 жыл бұрын
George, thank you for clearing up a couple issues I'm having in settings. I've got to say; I have watched most of your videos and I have never viewed a you tube instructional video as detailed and helpful as yours. Thanks George
@smokingmeatanddiybydaniel8953
5 жыл бұрын
im building a pid smoker controller , and watching your videos are the best out here on youtube for understanding how this thing works , you must be a local votech teacher , great job man , 2 thumbs up
@blakeaquadro3885
5 жыл бұрын
SMOKING MEAT AND DIY BY DANIEL do you have yours set to “heat” or “cool”? Obviously you’re heating the unit, but the PID I’m replacing needed the blower to be set to cool
@drejam11
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you George for explaining the My pin parameters I would never have been able to make head or tail of those instructions keep making your videos sitting mine up for a barbecue to hold a temperature of 250 f
@mowser4104
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you George for all of your videos they make the beginner feel more confident.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
3 жыл бұрын
Glad you like them!
@sedricwillis451
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you George for helping me to hook up my PID controller to my screen printing conveyor dryer. I cant tell you how much I appreciate you help! You are wonderful and God sent! I will be gettting back with you as soon as I get the temp probe
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
4 жыл бұрын
Sedrick. I saw your test. As I feared, looks like you shorted out the probe circuit when it sparked. I think you need a new PID. We'll get this running right so don't worry.
@TheEnergyAuditor
5 жыл бұрын
Great video, thank you for posting it. ----- One comment on Auto Tuning that others might find helpful. If your going to auto-tune your PID settings make sure to first set the temperature to a value you expect to be using regularly, click and hold the "AT" button, and most importantly WAIT till the AT light turns off. Otherwise you will not have completed a full auto tune cycle and the parameters will likely be incorrect (most likely an under estimate). Thanks again for the concise video, I couldn't make heads or tails of the horrible so called manual I found online.
@africantwin173
4 жыл бұрын
What would be a good temperature to use the auto tune when im smoking a 6 pound boston butt.
@byronjohnson9029
2 жыл бұрын
Guess I don’t need those electric classes after all, thanks for all your videos, planning my build soon and have learned all from your channel.
@seanconnor3483
4 жыл бұрын
Hi George. Very informative as ever. Just a small point. The Integral is the area under the curve. The derivative is the slope of the curve.
@derrickrice2010
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks a ton George.....your videos hands down have helped me and others more than you will ever know. I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to do these very educational and helpful videos. Thank you.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks Derrick. George
@ritobasco698
5 жыл бұрын
derrick rice what sir goerge gmail. Can't thank you
@ritobasco698
5 жыл бұрын
Can't search
@route-249
10 ай бұрын
5 years old and still helping me, thanks! I'm using this to control my oxalic acid vaporizer so I can treat my honey bees,
@denzilcypret742
5 жыл бұрын
George, I don't know much about PIDs but what I do came from you! Thank you so much. I have a TA4-SSR that I am setting up for an electric smoker. To test it, I have the 110vac hot going to PID pin 1 and neutral 110vac to PID pin 2. A jumper goes from PID (hot) pin 2 to SSD pin 2 and SSD pin 1 goes to the hot side of a 110vac fan, serving as the load. The neutral fan lead goes to PID pin 2. Then, SSR 4(neg) goes to PID 3(neg) while SSR3 (pos) connects to PID 4 (pos) The K probe connects to PID 7 (neg) and PID 8(pos). In normal operation mode the PV is 85 and the SV is 86. When PV reaches 86, the SSR input lite flashes on/off . On the PID, the output flashes on/off and the AL1 is lit. However, the load (fan) does NOT come on! I feel I am close but my brain is so twisted I cannot see my error for the life of me! I hope you can find time to educate me further. Anxious!
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Do not, do not run the neutral to pin #2. Use the SSR as you would a switch. Hot wire to pin #1. Neutral wire to the fan. Run a separate hot sire from pin #1 to the fan. When the PID engages it will complete the circuit to the fan and it will come on. Your K probe is correct.
@denzilcypret742
5 жыл бұрын
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing George, please, please forgive me for being so dense. Is this what you mean? PID #1 (hot) and #2 (neutral) are the mains supply. PID #1 connects to SSR #2. SSR #1 goes to the hot side of the fan. The neutral side of the fan goes to PID #2 completing the fan circuit (when the SSR is turned on by the K probe). Of course, as you have made very clear in prior posts, other elements of the circuit are a switch, receptacle, fuse(s), panel lights, cooling fan and an ac amp meter which I especially like! If I am getting closer to understanding all this I am very happy. The eureka moment for me was your statement to use the SSR as a switch--as simple as that! You are truly the best! Now to see if it will float! Denny
@denzilcypret742
5 жыл бұрын
Oops! That one doesn't work! I re-checked and found an error. PID #1 goes to SSR #1 (not SSR #2 !!!)and a jumper goes from SSR #1 to the hot side of the fan. So, if I connect the cold side of the fan to SSR #2 it still doesn't work. I'm having trouble getting the fan to neutral--your instructions said do not connect neutral to pin 2, which I assume to mean PID #2. Do I misunderstand your advice? Alternatively, seems to me it would work if I went from PID 1 to SSR 1 and the SSR 2 to one side of the fan, and connect the other fan side to PID #2......?
@denzilcypret742
5 жыл бұрын
OK, success finally! I simply connected the fan in series between SSR #2 and PID #2, as in the alternative I stated in my last sentence above. Thanks for your patience and help! Now I can start cutting holes in the box.
@keithbrookshire
Жыл бұрын
Fantastic, easy to follow instructions. Now I can use my electric smoker as a smoker and as an oven. Thank you!
@chucktaylor5878
5 жыл бұрын
1. Hold set key for about 5 secs 2. AL set to 300 3. A01 set to 2 4. AL2 set to 450 5. A02 set to 2 6. PUF is the offset to adjust (used if temp is off of calibration) 7. INP K type (looks like a backward Y) 8. P set to 1 9. I (looks like 1) set to 540 10. D set to 200 11. Heat 12. Hys set to 1 13. Cel set to 001 14. C - F set to F 15. LCY set to 000 16. Hold set
@krooeangfisho7142
5 жыл бұрын
Can you help me. please set for my PID mypin 200 degree . sorry for my eng.
@jmorris9931
4 жыл бұрын
George, You da Man!!! I have learned so much watching your videos, THANK-YOU! Thanks for a great video on the MyPin settings. I have the TA6 and, as you said, the settings are the same procedure. Somehow, I got my settings off (didn't hit the final set button?) and went thru the procedure again. All good. Using the PID is of tremendous value. What really sold me on it was a video made by a large commercial brewery. Their control board had multiple MyPin PIDs to control their entire brewing process.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
4 жыл бұрын
Glad to help!
@kaden56
3 жыл бұрын
Great video thank you. You got your I and D mixed up when stating that with PI it would never actually reach temperature. The integral is what makes sure it gets there because it multiplies by the sum of error. The derivative essentially just acts as a damping factor to control overshoot.
@mantraguy
5 жыл бұрын
I'm not using this for brewing but your explanation was excellent regardless of what you're using this for. Thanks!
@kawierider761
5 жыл бұрын
You are so excited and passionate and excited about all you post, it makes it so easy. I thank you so much for you invaluable help
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks a million. Sharing is our passion. George
@scottwilson8157
6 жыл бұрын
Please explain auto tune in more detail if you can. I have built two PID controllers (after studying your videos) a main and back up with fans and thermostats to control them. BTW One lesson I learned was not to use an AC voltage fan as it induces electrical noise into the PID and causes the PV to fluctuate out of control. Thanks for all the valuable information you have published and thank you for the personal help you have provided via phone conversation in the past. You are greatly appreciated!
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
The auto tune function will fine tune your P,I and D settings for you and will match them to your process. These will be the best settings based on how your still runs and it does it by itself. Just let it run through a self tune cycle while you are distilling (when the light goes out it is done). You can check your settings after that to see where they are for your still.
@michaelcooney7687
4 жыл бұрын
Once again ... you sir ... are a complete genius... so much esoteric info "distilled" into a useable format... kudos to you sir..😍😎
@JohnDoe-pv2iu
4 жыл бұрын
This is a really great video! I wonder how many hours of playing with this thing it took to learn all of that? You saved everybody at least that many hours and probably some burnt out equipment!
@clintsmith96
5 жыл бұрын
You rock George! Thanks a million for this video. How in the world did you figure out all the parameters???!!!! I would not have figured it out.
@thenar
5 жыл бұрын
great refresher...now I'm using it to control my laser's water chiller! What a handy little gadget. I built your controller with the SS relay etc. Works great.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Excellent
@jerrybarkley8167
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the help, I set this up to manage a HLT in my brewhouse while I am at home asleep so that I have my water ready to go right on time in the morning.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
4 жыл бұрын
Glad it helped!
@ForceBuilt
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video! You took the mystery out of the programming. This help a lot!
@alanklasek7195
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into your videos. They are the best I have found for building a pid controller. I have a problem with one I just built that I can't solve. When it reaches the set temp, the power doesn't shut off.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Alan, Does the light on the SSR stay on after it reaches the set temp? It is more likely your still has not balanced yet and the residual heat while the element was on is just making it to the probe area. The balancing takes about 15 minutes or so at a lower temperature (~ 130-140F). Let me know what happens or if the light stays on.
@glleon80517
6 жыл бұрын
Great series of videos. I built a version of your device but your recommended settings do not work for my 5 gallon kettle and 110 volt hot plate, and the Auto Tuning feature of the Inkbird does not work well either. It is helpful to understand that PID is really three control mechanisms. The Proportional setting can work by itself but it will always achieve a steady state temperature below the set point and takes a long time to stabilize. If you add in the Integral setting you can achieve an actual temperature equal to the set temperature. The Differential setting is there to look at the rate of change of the temperature and predict based on the rate of change whether to increase the power or decrease it. Add all three together and you get a rapid increase of temperature to begin, with a more gradual increase as you get closer to the set temperature to prevent the temperature over-running the set temperature. However, if you set any of the P, I, or D settings too high the result can be a very unstable temperature controller. Without resorting to complicated math, you can adjust the values as follows: 1. Set the I and D values to zero. 2. Set the P value to give you the desired time to reach the desired temperature quickly (say between 100 and 200). Notice that the indicated temperature will overshoot the set temperature but eventually settle in to a temperature several degrees below the set temperature. 3. Next increase the I value so that the indicated temperature settles close to the set temperature. 4. Next set the D value carefully to a value that gives you a stable temperature without big over-shoots or under-shoots. You can do the above procedure with just water in your still kettle. The mistake most hobbyists make is to jack up the values of P, I, and D too high. Don’t set the P value too high in an attempt to heat quickly. The I value should be no more than half the P value, and the D value should be even less. Setting each value separately and observing the result will give you the best performance: a rapid rise initially followed by a slow rise to the set temperature without big swings over or under the set temperature. With a little patience a PID controller can be dialed in to give you a great control over your distilling or brewing process.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks
@d9inger
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this George, and answering my phone call. I did have a bad controller. Amazon sent a replacement and I’m good to go.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Outstanding
@logicalfool
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks, I had no idea what all the abbreviations meant.
@DanielPoch
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this nice walk through. I'm taking my system out after a few years off from brewing and can't find my manual for the controller.
@bbcac
3 жыл бұрын
I watch this video so much. Great content!
@suiderkruisbrewers1998
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this one. Now I understand mine just a little bit better.
@countryboycharlie9793
6 жыл бұрын
Thank your sir George I hope this works for me and I think it will, yes I would have never got there, and that’s why I put it in a box and need this video really bad, if u run for President you got my vote and and the whole gang lol 😂Thanks again u are the greatest 🙏
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
Charlie, you are so gracious. Thanks for the comment. I hope this helps you achieve the success you deserve. If you have any issues with the PID let me know. If necessary I can pre-set one here and switch with you. I'll ship one to you and you can ship yours back to me. Geogre
@Irish1972
2 жыл бұрын
Keep up the Great work George on keeping us educated. I recently watched your PID setting parameters very useful my question is once I lock in a desired heat setting why would my top heat setting go way over then back down it fluctuates. Thanks Jim
@royhendershot
3 жыл бұрын
Im going to try to build and set my own PID Thanks for the information.
@jbrunson1949
5 жыл бұрын
how about a video more about alarms, I am thinking a audio for lower to set at about 145* and maybe set upper for 175* to let you know about close to cut stages..
@TheRoots72
4 жыл бұрын
Great videos like always!, i showed on a group the picture of my built for PID controller and someone said to me this:" What are you going to regulate with your pid? The boiling temp of your mash is set by laws of physics and the abv in your mash. Look at the green line in the graph. That's the boiling point of your mash. Did you ever try to get water to boil below or above 212/100º F/C with your pid? You don't need a pid, you need a power regulator on the amps you supply to your heating element." So it started a debate with the guys , what can i tell him? I only want to use it in winter because propane and inside distilling is to dangerous.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
4 жыл бұрын
A PID controls the power output to the element based on need. It adjusts the amperage and voltage required by timing the power supply in the SSR as the control signal is converted to a square wave where changes only happen at the zero crossing point. This timing function converts that square wave into a percentage of power realized at the element. It is a smart controller as opposed to an analog controller you turn up and down. Hope this helps George
@ctpctp
2 жыл бұрын
BLESS YOU for decyphering that instruction sheet for us! :-D
@chrisbgarrett
Жыл бұрын
Wish you still made videos. Hope you’re well bud.
@mr.ronesysrosin679
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks George. Really amazing vid.
@HodgyE5
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video. this got me up and running quick
@michaelledebrink8288
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you, that was very helpful.
@wolfullrich3062
3 жыл бұрын
The helped a lot! Thank you George!
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
3 жыл бұрын
Glad to hear it!
@countryboycharlie9793
5 жыл бұрын
One super video help for me George, thanks a million
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Always good to hear from you Charlie. George
@countryboycharlie9793
5 жыл бұрын
George i did everything u said I played with the numbers give it time to make adjustments. I just can’t get it to stabilize on the temperature I set it at.. this is the 4th time I’ve had it back out.. I just don’t understand it at all.. I’m ready to mail this thing to u and see what is going own with this crazy thing ... I’ve got me a headache 🤕 with this thing. Starting to think this is not for but so cool, and I built it. Could be the problem lol! Any more information would be nice 👍
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Send it to me and I'll take a look at it. Send me an email and I will provide an address george.duncan76@gmail.com
@denzilcypret742
4 жыл бұрын
I had to divert for a while from working on my controller. I have watched your videos again and they remain at the top of excellence for easy-to-understand and very concise instruction and information. I have the Mypin TA4 with SSR output operating on 110 VAC and ultimately be used for a BBQ smoker. But right now while I'm trying to get the programming set up, I am using a fan for the load, instead of a 1500 W heating element. Problem: As soon as I turn it on, the display and LEDS blink at the rate of about 30 hz/sec. Press and hold SET and must wait 30-45 sec for AL1 to come up and then it will go to A01, AL2, etc, on down the list and start over--at no point do I have a chance to interact and enter changes. I know from your videos what I want to enter and altho I am not yet adept at quickly pressing correct buttons in correct sequence I think I am quick enough. Same thing occurs when I begin by holding down both green buttons. Do you have any ideas? Of course, it may be that the controller is faulty or that my wiring is wrong. I have included a lit fan switch, a large LED that shows when the SSR is operating--yes, a redundancy I know! plus a multi-function watt meter. Also 2 AC outlets and panel-mount fuses. All of these extras seem to work fine. I should also note that the controller must have been set up to have the SSR in conducting mode as the load (fan) and signal LED both are on. Thanks so much for any help!
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
4 жыл бұрын
Once you get AL1, AO1, AL2, AL2 stop a the next parameter and then push the blue button to access its setting. After that you use the up/down arrows to set that and then press set to save and then set to go to the next parameter. George
@denzilcypret742
4 жыл бұрын
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thanks George! Well, I followed your very simple instructions and here is part of what I found. The flickering continues and makes it next to impossible to see any changes made by pressing the blue button if I am lucky enough to get to that point, and it moves only sometimes. Often the parameter choices just starts quickly indexing to the next one. The whole display may go dead for 1 sec , then return somewhere down the list. I have no idea what I do to trigger it, but it will start flashin g gibberish (to me!) eg, cJS, CJl, Lch, CuL until I turn it off. In general, it seems to mostly ignore the set key and especially the blue key. You make it look so easy in your videos so something must be wrong with me or the PID, or maybe both! Is it possible I could have damaged it while trying to get it programmed? I just remembered that the first time I turned it on, the display momentarily dimmed for a split second and I heard a faint click-like noise. I had it fused for 2 amps and the fuse did not blow.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
4 жыл бұрын
@@denzilcypret742 Very possible you damaged it or it is just faulty. I have only had 2 of these fail from the factory in the past 5 years. It is possible that it is just faulty. George
@denzilcypret742
4 жыл бұрын
@@BarleyandHopsBrewingI did as you said about going thru AL1, AL2, etc, but I could not stop it from going to the next parameter automatically and it was cycling so rapidly I could not stop it with the blue button or the set. I have to say it is uncontrollable with my present knowledge. OK, so I installed another PID, brand new, out of the box, and it responds in exactly the same way! This is so ridiculous that I think it must be something on site here, maybe a sneaky short, so next I will COMPLETELY rewire it. Of course the schematic could be wrong. I don't know how to send a picture so I'll do the best I can to describe it in words: PID TA4 with SSR output 110VAC in, black to fuse, black from fuse to switch, switch to PID pin 1, then to SSR pin 1, SSR pin2 to receptacle hot (temporary load of a fan), receptacle neutral back to 110VAC neutral. Then PID pin 3 neg to SSR pin 4 neg, SSR pin 3 pos to PID 4 pos. TC K-probe connects to PID pins 7 and 8, observing polarity. Unless you see something glaring here, I believe you have done the best you can working remotely. It is something here and I'll just have to work it out. Many thanks for all the excellent videos, cooperation and especially your patience!
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
4 жыл бұрын
@@denzilcypret742 Send me an email and I will respond with a wiring diagram When you push set for 3 seconds (until the display reads AL1) let the set button go. If you hold it it will scroll. Use the blue button to start the digits flashing and then use up/down arrow to change. After that push set and let it go. Push set again and let it go to go to the next step.
@louisgl
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks you thank you! I have been waiting for this video My question is with my 8 gallon pot/5500watt - 220volt heater - I notice it is turning off/on a lot! It is slowing the reflux on the 2" column. Heater on reflux/ heater off no reflux. Finally the question -To increase reflux can I lower wattage to heater element via Mypid and how? Or should I replace element to 3000watt for 8 gallon pot
@MooKeeFPV
5 жыл бұрын
Louis Lilienthal I have the same question on lowering the max power from 100% to 50%.
@abdoobaid2419
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you Your explanation is great
@philiptruitt
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you, George!
@johnrizzato9192
2 жыл бұрын
awesome video! Thank you for taking your time and creating the most comprehensive video I've seen on PIDControllers. There's one thing that I don't understand though and that is I believe you said at the beginning that we needed to change something to make it a temperature for heat treating and it came sit at something else and for whatever reason and I think I missed it. Can you elaborate please thank you
@michaelgreen9866
4 жыл бұрын
Great how to video !
@theflyinggearman3128
5 жыл бұрын
Very well explained. Thanks
@MrGreglorious
5 жыл бұрын
Hi George. Super appreciative for all the terrific advice you provide in your videos. I'm hoping you can help me reset the MyPin TA4 SSR controller. It worked fine for the first few runs. Then I tried to get it into autotune mode and probably hit the wrong sequence of buttons. Now it ignores my set point and just keeps heating and heating well beyond the set point. It is overriding the settings you suggested even though they are still programmed. Many thanks in advance.
@terrysellers9809
2 жыл бұрын
Good job gorge give us 1 more thanks and god bless you
@meetim2931
4 жыл бұрын
4:05 "with proportional integral control you will almost reach your set point but never quite get there, it's mathematically impossible". Sorry but that statement is true for proportional only control. Integral is what enables you to reach the set point. Derivative relates to the rate at which you approach the set point. It helps you run a higher integral to reach your set point sooner by helping to prevent overshoot.
@cameronshine3465
4 жыл бұрын
meetim i have just bought the mypin, what do u mean in regard to the settings here ?
@meetim2931
4 жыл бұрын
@@cameronshine3465 Not sure I understand your question, but to elaborate my comment: in your Mypin or any PID controller there are among a bunch of other settings, three called P, I & D, which are the main ones to worry about. if you set P to a value, and leave I & D at zero, you can never reach your set point, because the drive to reach the set point is proportional (P) to the distance from the set point. ergo, when you are close to your set point, the drive to get there is small, and it never happens. this fixed distance between the operating and set point is called the offset. Integral (I) forces the operating point closer to the set point by adding an amount that you specify to the mathematical expression governing your operating point. If you add just the right amount, you reach your set point and life is good. if you add too much, it overshoots. then the proportional control kicks in to drive it back the other way (in the case of temperature control, turns off the heating or cooling source). with too much integral you continue to oscillate. The fix for this is to reduce the integral or add in some Derivative (D). This measures the speed at which your operating point approaches the set point, and predictively turns off the heating ahead of getting there to try and control overshoot. (Derivative is a calculus term in which the rate of change of an equation can be determined). All of that is the theory. in practice it can still be super hard finding the right settings for your application. For the trial and error approach, you start with P & end up at D with trial values. There are more analytical approaches but I dont know them in sufficient detail to pass that knowledge on.
@cameronshine3465
4 жыл бұрын
@@meetim2931 ok thanks , yes that makes cents .
@cameronshine3465
4 жыл бұрын
I installed the mypin PID tonight and i set the parameters to your settings George " and a big thanks for showing them so clearly" .mine is the MYPIN Temperature controller - model : TD4-SNR , Input : TC/RTD, Output : SSR , POWER : 90-260V AC/DC. Mine has a extra light on the front panel, from the left - S/MV OUT1 OUT2/AL2 AL1 AT/M 5 Lamps. If i click the set button the S/MV lamp comes on and the volts keep changing bouncing around showing the voltage sent to the element "good" . But i am not sure what the new S/MV lamp is for.
@turbothis
2 жыл бұрын
nailed it. thanks
@Kntryhart
6 жыл бұрын
Good stuff! Thank you!
@rebwar08
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this video it helped me alot
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
Glad to hear that it helped. George
@adamwanderscheid8559
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks George!
@prashantwaghmare2571
4 жыл бұрын
Good explanation sir
@tarvoerimae7463
3 жыл бұрын
Hey! Thanks for the info. One question however. When should I autotune the PID controller? (if at all)
@freytube1
3 жыл бұрын
fantastic Job
@J.Carlson4745
6 жыл бұрын
I'm simple-minded. I'll stick with my nuwave pro. that thing rocks. thx bro. your idea.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
No problem. If it works there is no need to try to fix it. Thanks George
@syedjawadable
6 жыл бұрын
Barley and Hops Brewing LLC Can u please tell me how to evaluate the Exact PID values ...
@nimrodquimbus912
6 жыл бұрын
Google PID, it is the best way to get an explanation of it.
@garylichty7351
Жыл бұрын
Thanks saved me at lot of time setting up, but mine does not auto tune it just stays in the auto tune mode. Is there a factory reset?
@samscsi70
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot your video's been informative and very helpful I have a problem with my temperature controller The parameters will change mid cycle I don't understand why. I do the settings as 1, 540 , 250
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Try 1,240 and 8. After that use autotune to let the PID tune itself to your process.
@dactime3780
6 жыл бұрын
Hey George thank you very much for doing this. I have watched all of the PID making, wiring, and setting videos, along with just about all of your other videos, and they are extremely helpful and very well done! The one question I did have was on the auto tune part. After pushing the auto tune button you say let it run for a cycle and it will do its thing. Is the cycle you are referring to the time from when the PID controller comes on to the time it reaches its set value and turns, in this case the heating element, off? Or is the auto tune cycle a set or determined time that is programmed into the PID? Just trying to realize how long it will take for the auto tune feature to run its coarse. Thank you very much again for all of the help and knowledge that you have shared with all that have watched. They are very much appreciated George.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
The cycle I refer to is the auto tune cycle itself. I set the set value at 110 and begin heating ; when it gets to about 85 -90 I push auto tune. When the PID reaches its set temperature the auto tine light will go out. This is the cycle I am talking about. I do this a couple times (mostly because its neat) as I heat up to operating temp. Hope this helps. George
@dactime3780
6 жыл бұрын
Yes it did help. I noticed you using the auto tune in this manner in the video that you did recently on making a run. So the auto tune is really just an internal self evaluation for the PID to insure that it is operating at its optimum efficiency. Thanks so much again George and happy distilling!
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
Glad to hear you find it helpful. I love these things, they are amazing. George
@mrtechie6810
Жыл бұрын
Could you do a video on controlling a heating element in water using a PID -- and efficiency of SSR vs SCR? I have an 8KW Atmor tankless water heater that has two switched heating elements. I want to add stable electronic temperature control. But I can't find good information about the different options! Seems the PID + SSR MAY have longer switching time, and that MAY reduce heating element life from thermal cycling vs a higher speed SCR. But I am having trouble finding the real answer.
@helmsrobert1958
6 жыл бұрын
God bless you and thanks for a good vidio
@jamesturner2583
5 жыл бұрын
A couple of questions George. You do a great job on all the videos. I am fixing to change my 15 gallon propane powered pot over to either a PID controller or a power controller setup. I have looked at quite a few setups and will build the panel myself. Do you prefer to use a thermocouple or an RTD, and why, and on your systems is the measuring point the liquid in the pot or the vapor at the tower head.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Thermocouples come in many different types. I prefer the K type. It has 2 wires and is accurate. The only difference between this one and others is the min-max temp rating which is well below zero and well above several hundred degrees. There are others with 3 wire hook ups as well. They all wok the same way but are just rated differently. The temp is best monitored at the point where vapor exits the head.
@cyreelagravante2471
3 жыл бұрын
Hellow there, i got my new same controller for my Meat Room and i need to set it up to -20 degree celsius.. what parameters should i need to change?
@leblancmeneses3650
Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video. But I need to control a set of mercury relays and the on off frequency is bad for the relays. Can it be programmed to stay on till it reaches the SV? THANKS
@moussabalqaissy7110
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks
@rockyblankenship1166
5 ай бұрын
Hello, I have a PID on my home made powder coating oven. It is used to turn on my Carlin EZ propane gas burner. Everything thing seems to work fine except when the oven gets close to the shut on temp, it cuts off befor reaching the set temp. Say, the temp is set at 400 degrees, when the temp raise to 390 degrees, I see the Out1 light come on and kills the flame, then right back on. Repeats this till it finally get up to 400 degrees. Does not mater the temp setting, always cuts it off befor the set temp. You have any ideal what might cause this?
@InvisibleCitizen
5 жыл бұрын
I have the mypin ta4 on my gas fired HLT with a Honeywell a valve and a Honeywell spark ignitor. It works fine until it reaches the SV, then it starts to quickly cycles on off on off on off.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
The TA4 does have an analog setting for servo motors if you are trying to control gas valves. This would be a different parameter set-up described in your instructions. The PID signals on/off to control the pulse wave of electric and your system (gas fired HTL) is a little different but the PID doesn't know that. You must tell it what to do via the analog settings and it will operate smoothly but turning the gas port up and down as required.
@beverlygolden9893
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for a great video . Have you had any experience with the Berme REXC100 PID Controller ?Had 2 of them and couldnt program them properly
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Yes and I have moved to the mypin and inkbirb models. They are very reliable and programmable.
@silveraven1
4 жыл бұрын
George.... Thank you so much for this . I was am having issues with mine. Say I set for 180, it would keep pushing past the set temp. Even at 195??
@muhammadbasir83
4 жыл бұрын
I wish that this is Rex-C100 video.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
4 жыл бұрын
Posted one about two weeks ago
@muhammadbasir83
4 жыл бұрын
Barley and Hops Brewing Thank you.
@kevinmessick5550
6 жыл бұрын
What’s the difference between the TA4 and the TD4? Thanks for the videos, they’re extremely informative.
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
I can find any difference between them. The TD series lists the TA manual. Not sure if there is any difference at all.
@jimnewburry8018
2 жыл бұрын
Love your song in the videos and can not figure out where to find it to hear the whole song. Sorry to bug you but really want to know what this song is
@dirkverhoest936
4 жыл бұрын
good job.
@ricardogomezlucea5357
2 жыл бұрын
hello.. i like very much yours videos.. i ha ve a question? i'm into charcuterie making. i use inkbird pid controller for my smoker, but can i use it for controlling my fermentation and drying chamber? which it should run in 55 F, and 80% relative humidity, and if it not, what would you recommend me/ i'm using vertical fridge medicated with humidifier and a dehumidifier .... i was using an Inkbird IHC-200 WIFI and ITC-308-WIFI (WHICH IT BROKE AFTER A WEEK ))
@kwixwexw
Жыл бұрын
so I recently dropped the box and my T series was all UUUUU across the top. it has since been repaired. the temp can be set now but the thermometer isn't reading at all. it sounds like it's trying to heat up. what can I do to get this working the way it was when I got it? it didn't fall far and it's still very new. only used a dozen times maybe
@silver-hy6mi
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks great video series, I have relearn and lot of formulas I was tort many years ago, is it possible to add a water control valve and temp control to! Would work great on the T500? Thanks
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
6 жыл бұрын
That is possible and delicate. This PID does have an analog output to operate valves but I have not delved into that yet. George
@javiergarcia---
5 жыл бұрын
very good explanation , thanks for the video, do you have a video how to wire it up?
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Yes. There is a step by step video on this
@carloscancherini5303
3 жыл бұрын
Grande Video!!! Congrats for your job!!! Do you have any similar for Mypin DA8-RRB monitoring a 4-20mA Pressure Sensor?
@shaknit
4 жыл бұрын
I have delema I've tried 2 different k type thermocouples and 2 mypin pid's and get the same result. I calibrate the temp using the puf function so it matches the temp on 3 other thermometers and the pid reading doesnt hold steady to match the others it will either rise 1/10 of degree at a time and keep going to a couple of degrees off from the other thermometers. So I recalibrated everything to match then put the thermomoters and the pid probe in to some ice water. The other themomenters read 36 f and the pid reads 43 f dont know what is causing that or what to do about it. does the same thing in boiling water at the other end.
@simplescents3309
2 жыл бұрын
UDC120L Honeywell UDC120L control don’t have a decimal function for type N wire . What H.L control can i swap it for
@silveraven1
4 жыл бұрын
HELP! Mash in the still and getting a UUUU and there is no OUT1 light is not on? It was working just fine last run a week ago?? Thanks George I had a spare relay laying around and hooked it up. Now the out2 light is on and also out2?
@tranggonogunawan5979
Жыл бұрын
Sir I am going to build egg incubator any suggestion which brand and series of PID temperatur and humidity controller to use. Which brand has the best accurity. Thank you
@lintxxxxx
4 жыл бұрын
Question. I am using this to control a heater for kiln. But my settings are causing it to open and close when it gets close to set parameter. How can I set it do it simply goes off when desired temp is reached? I want to stop the throttling of the relay and just have it open once temp is reached. Thank you
@silveraven1
4 жыл бұрын
I’ve set the parameters to your exact settings. Do you have any idea why mine overshoots by 20 degrees? 10 gal copper still w/thumper. Thanks George!
@tonyrollin402
Жыл бұрын
So I think I need a little help so I can not change the temperature up or down on the PID I have the same one you have in this video I thought I was just supposed to be able to press the blue button and then change the numbers up or down but when I hit the blue button nothing happens please help
@kennethfuller803
2 жыл бұрын
When I buy mypin ta4 temperature controller and it comes with 6 pins on the thermal coupler don't work. An help?
@MemberNo2
5 жыл бұрын
Hi George. Thanks so much for your informative and clear instructions. Is it possible to use the AL2 output (which is labeled "SSR" on my device) as an alternative process-control output? The main ctrl output on my TA4 is proportional out i.e., 0 - 10volts, which isn't suitable for the application I have in mind. The instructions that came with my TA4 hints that AL2 can be configured as the control output but is unclear about how to actually do it. It may be that it is there for processes that requires both active heating and active cooling...
@BarleyandHopsBrewing
5 жыл бұрын
Yes, you can use AL2 as a switch. You will need to provide power to one pin of the AL2 connection and then run from the other connection to your device. Of course a neutral wire to your device for the complete circuit. When the requirements of AL2 are met the relay will close and your attached device will come on. George
@MemberNo2
5 жыл бұрын
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thanks for taking the time to reply, George. All the best.
@CaptMike
3 жыл бұрын
Will this controller do anything other than go to the temp set and hold?
@blain2484
2 жыл бұрын
My temp controller was set at 100C out of the box. I switched to F and it still said 100. Is this still in C or is it now 100F? I would have expected the set point to change to 212 when switched to F.
Пікірлер: 330