You wouldn't think you could see so much terrible surfing in just one session in tiny, clean waves, but then again, you probably weren't thinking of Travis and Padwick.
This is actually a "good" day compared to how it's been, but it was still so soft and weak. One thing I've learned about myself during all this flatness: SMALLNESS causes wipeouts and kooking. You wouldn't think that would be the case, but I've experienced that over and over again over the summer. I've learned that, despite my manorexic figure, I'm no longer a grommet. Not even close. So, when it's so soft and weak like this, I find myself bobbling on the takeoff and struggling for speed. Once that happens, no amount of spazzing and gyrating is going to save it, so I might as well embrace my kookery. If it's a particularly exceptional case of kooking, I have to claim it. Thanks again to Gabriel Medina for teaching me that.
Travis' problem, however, is that he just can't stop sending. This was the first session in forever that the "death section" came into play, and Travis did anything and everything possible, on EVERY wave, to make a connection to it. He'd bodyboard into it, he'd bodyboard ACROSS it - anything to experience DEATH!!! And, the masochist he is, he wasn't wearing a leash, so he got his swimming practice in for the day. Be sure to turn up the volume: Travis' wipeouts are always better with sound.
Yep, we're idiots. But we're out there kooking every day!!
Негізгі бет SO MUCH Terrible Surfing in Such Tiny, Clean Waves
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