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@tungsten_carbide
Жыл бұрын
If you will be doing more planes in future there are some tips that will save you a crapton of effort 🙂 But first, please, for the sake of all the vintage plane fans out there, don't grip the cast iron or japanned surfaces directly in your vice jaws 👎! Pad them with cork, leather, rubber, something (even thick card is better than nothing), so you don't mark the softish cast iron or crack off any japanning. Scrape off heavier rust when you can. Some guys use just a single-edged razorblade for this. But you can add a burr to the edge of a razor to make them more effective scrapers; these are also great for removing flaking finish from wood, saving on a lot of heavier sanding which has numerous risks associated with it. Also saves $$$ on sandpaper! Any parts you know you want to go back to bare metal, I think it's always worth soaking in a derusting solution of some kind. Even when it doesn't eat all the rust it'll weaken what remains and make it much easier for a wire wheel to take off, reducing the chance of unsightly surface damage. As you probably know almost everyone on KZitem these days seems to use Evaporust, and it does work great, but basic white vinegar with some salt added can do a very similar job for cheap (just be careful not to leave anything soaking for too long). Like Evaporust vinegar solutions can be used again and again so can last a looong time. If you want to really get into plane restoration have a look at the _Plane Collector_ channel here on KZitem, he's probably the most expert plane restorer out there (way faster and more efficient than I am!) and his tips vids are solid gold 👉👉👉👉
@KPWelds
Жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot for the tips! I will definitely have to try these in the future.
@tungsten_carbide
Жыл бұрын
Your plane is what's called a 'Frankenplane', assembled from parts of multiple planes. This is quite common, and one of the frog screws being missing can be a sign. The body, frog and lever cap are probably from the same old plane. Definitively the body casting is a type 14, dating from 1929-1930, because of the "Made in U.S.A" cast in front of the knob which dating timelines tell us only appeared in the type 14s. The original handles were taken off at some point; these were very nice rosewood back in the day. You did some nice work on this 👍and I think the plane ended up looking just the way you wanted - like a vintage plane that had been looked after its whole life 👍👍
@philipchandler330
Жыл бұрын
Nice preservation
@07fjcruiser1
Жыл бұрын
good job, nice antique look.
@KPWelds
Жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@civicboomer2135
Жыл бұрын
Looks like a type 13 maybe 1929-30. Looks like a sweetheart. I think I saw a heart on the iron (blade) and a decal on the tote (the broken handle) left side. That can be glued and repaired, Highly desirable plane. By the way your iron (blade ) should be turned over with the chip breaker on the flat side. Bevel facing down.
@KPWelds
Жыл бұрын
Thank you! I didn’t throw away the handle so I might try and glue it back together just so it will be original. I did notice the blade was upside down afterwards lol
@tungsten_carbide
Жыл бұрын
I think the body casting is a type 14 for sure - one patent date, "Made in U.S.A." at front and raised ring are supposed to be definitive - but the replaced handles tell us for sure this is a Frankenplane, so there's no telling how many planes might have provided parts. Well spotted on the iron going in upside down, I nearly missed this myself 👍
@KPWelds
Жыл бұрын
@@tungsten_carbide thanks for the comment! I noticed the iron afterwards😂
@v3git8tor
5 ай бұрын
Shame to crack the lever cap right in the home stretch. Live and learn.
@GT_Racer347
Жыл бұрын
Sweet 👍🏻 👍🏻
@KPWelds
Жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@robinalexander5772
Жыл бұрын
Some advice you don't need, when you have a crusty plane like this spray the shit load of penitrating fluid all over, lots is better. Wrap in rag leave 24 hours take out and spray again. Lots of lube. Why more likely not to snap shit. Cheer Robin.
@KPWelds
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the advice!
@tungsten_carbide
Жыл бұрын
I prefer to at least _try_ screws 'dry' before using penetrating fluid because it reduces the amount of oil that needs to be cleaned off next step, or allows parts to go straight into rust remover with no degreasing step. Obviously you don't want to go full gorilla on anything stuck, but even some crusty looking screws can sometimes surprise!
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