A worn water pump will still move coolant through the engine, but you need enough volume and pressure to get it passing through the cab to produce heat. Easiest way to check is to disconnect at the intake in the cab and run it with your thumb on the hose, if you can stop the flow it's the water pump.
@Lappemountainliving
6 ай бұрын
Awesome tip! thank you
@frontagulus
6 ай бұрын
My approach with problems that don't immediately resolve with some reasonable stabs at what could be wrong, is to be methodical. Your heating system uses coolant to provide heat to the cab heater. So, start at the beginning and verify that you're getting coolant flow, and that it's hot. There's many ways you can try this - one would be to verify that both coolant takeoffs from the block/head can flow coolant. Just unhook the hose and verify that you have sustained flow from them. Sustained means it's still flowing strong after a minute, not just a quick squirt and "it's ok". Then heat the engine up, and do it again and verify that the coolant flow is sustained AND hot. That establishes that you have the appropriate coolant flow. Then test your flow through the heater hoses and the heater radiator. Just disconnect both hoses at the engine, hook your garden hose up to one of them and direct the other end into a drum or outside on the ground. Then turn on the hose and confirm that you have sustained flow through the hoses and heater core in the correct direction of flow. If you don't, follow the hoses from the engine connections all the way to the heater core, not missing / assuming any portions of the hose. Looking for a valve or a kink. Another think to consider is that hoses can delaminate inside and the inside "flap" can essentially as a valve if the flow is against the flap. I've seen that multiple times. So the hose might look good on the outside and might even flow air just fine, but some hot coolant through it can soften it enough to flap closed. Happens with brake hoses sometimes. Hook the hoses back up, run the engine and confirm that the hose gets hot along its length and that the core gets hot. You only need two hoses on the heater. One from the engine to the heater core, and one going back. If the flow relies on the engine's water pump to push it through, then check that the connection points on the engine are the correct ones. Usual connection is the supply comes from the thermostat housing between the pump and thermostat, and the return goes to anywhere on the block on the low side, or a tee into the lower radiator hose. Also, worth checking whether there's a one-way valve in the circuit and the hoses are plumbed the wrong way round
@Lappemountainliving
6 ай бұрын
Lots of great suggestions for me to unpack here. I appreciate all the input. Cheers!
@lesmiller1739
6 ай бұрын
If you haven’t already change the hoses. There could be an internal “flap” where the inner wall is coming apart and blocking flow. These problems will often only happen when the coolant is circulating and under pressure. Also if the fuel heater is plumbed into the pressure side instead of the return it could be cooling the coolant too much.
@Lappemountainliving
6 ай бұрын
Thanks for the comment! I have forced coolant through every line in both directions and they are all good.
@DW_FARMS_2023
6 ай бұрын
I had the same problem with my Ford 9600. I installed the tea in the line with a valve so that I could suck the antifreeze through the cab and get all the air out of it and now it works.
@Lappemountainliving
6 ай бұрын
Thanks for the tip!
@tracteurfan4734
6 ай бұрын
The cab heather and the fuel heater are plumbed at the outlet of the water pump, so the cooling flow goes to the easyest one. Your fuel heater is bypassing the the pressure going to the cab heater. Just and a manual valve the the line going to the fuel heater. When you are not using the fuel heater just close these valve.
@Lappemountainliving
6 ай бұрын
Thanks for the ideas!
@johnnvenema5335
6 ай бұрын
Check that your belts are good and all so tight. I have seen worn out pulley cause the same problem.
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