Particle trajectories (red) of permanent progressive irrotational inviscid deep-water surface gravity (ie Stokes) waves. The free surface is shown in white and the slope ranges from weakly nonlinear to a value near the limiting steepness. The Stokes coefficients are found using the scheme described in Pizzo (2020) and then the system is time evolved using a boundary integral method for the fully nonlinear potential flow equations.
Негізгі бет Stokes drift
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