This guy's presentation style is so good it's hard to believe. Many engineers have a wide breadth of knowledge, but few can organize their thoughts and deliver them this coherently and well-paced. I'd listen to him explain anything.
@RobertCowanDIY
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@bradleyfluharty4729
2 жыл бұрын
Pure Gold. Thank you sir. I was gifted a smaller stratus unit. I wanted to do the same route, updating boards and drives. Thanks for the documentation.
@AnthonyvanHamond
8 жыл бұрын
i love a well produced, good quality and relaxed video... great work!! subbed!
@elliot3147
Жыл бұрын
Thank you for making this series of videos. I came upon a stratasys dimension 768 sst and i want to retro fit it to be newer like yours.
@RobertCowanDIY
Жыл бұрын
I would maybe advise against it. I think for the time and effort spent, building a Voron makes a LOT more sense.
@cdbflynow
8 жыл бұрын
Great presentation on stepper motor essentials.
@ToddKerns314
8 жыл бұрын
Great video, i enjoued watching it, and learned a bunch about how to pick stepper motors. Thanks!
@derf2738
3 жыл бұрын
Ok I just picked up a 768 SST and 768 BST ... I'm looking forward to watch what you did to yours and get both of these machines rocking
@horacioconde7572
8 жыл бұрын
Great video, Robert! Thanks for sharing this nice project of yours!
@josefcub
8 жыл бұрын
This is awesome! That's a beautiful machine, and I'm envious of the scope of your project. Please keep up the good work.
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Thanks! There's still a lot to do.
@FrankSandqvist
8 жыл бұрын
Really looking forward to the next part! Love machine rebuilds.
@SarahKchannel
2 жыл бұрын
This is a beast !! Imagine if you have that rigid mechanical frame and you used Klipper with Input Shaper on the head !
@RobertCowanDIY
2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, it looks oddly similar to how the Vorons are constructed. But it was HUGE and had a small build volume for the 200+ pounds it weighed.
@SarahKchannel
2 жыл бұрын
@@RobertCowanDIY it is not really a core-X/Y - but yes :) Did you change the belts, the ghosting is a result of resonance in the system.... seeing the weight and tight tolerances, the first thing I would check is belt tension and wear.
@RobertCowanDIY
2 жыл бұрын
@@SarahKchannel I didn't change the belts, I couldn't easily find replacements and they were in good condition. I don't suspect the belts had much to do with it, I think the geckodrive was the wrong controller to use.
@SarahKchannel
2 жыл бұрын
@@RobertCowanDIY Well I suppose this printer was never meant to printer super fast (dont know how fast it was originally rated), but telling from the heated chamber it was most likely used for more engineering materials than ordinary PLA to beging with... Hence it was maybe designed to run sub 50mm/s but with high temps.
@etchmfg
7 жыл бұрын
Really enjoying your content, keep up the good work! The explanations are really helping me a lot.
@RobertCowanDIY
7 жыл бұрын
Thank you! I'm glad you're finding it useful.
@stilldavid
8 жыл бұрын
Nice bench top power supply!
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Hehe, maybe once I get the printer going I can print some knobs... ;-)
@pwave123
8 жыл бұрын
Nice video! I have the same machine was also thinking of doing this same... Thanks for sharing!
@machine2747
8 жыл бұрын
Lots of good information. Thank you!
@RexusKing
8 жыл бұрын
Very in depth and clear introduction! Nicely done Questions: are there any trade-off when you micro-step? I vaguely remember you lost torque or something?
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Someone posted this post from hackaday which goes into more details: hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/ The Geck G540 is nice though because at full speeds it goes into full step mode, which kinda gives you the best of both worlds.
@lynnhooper5129
8 жыл бұрын
wonderful video. I am working on the same project on a similar machine. I'm also working on the bearings but in my model, it has 3 lead screws on the z axis. One on each side and one on the back. I assume that is to provide 3 points to level. Thanks for sharing with the video.
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Yes! There were two when I got this one, and the other had the 3 leadscrew setup. It seems a bit trickier. I was thinking of just using pillow block bearings and machining a plate that the existing table could attach to. We'll see. It doesn't seem like the assembly is worth saving for any reason. Let me know if something works for you.
@witgangyounotube287
6 жыл бұрын
just want to point out that microsteping is not always increasing resolution , i've tested 1.8 degree and 0.9 degree nema 17 stepper motors with the DRV8825 driver and found out that it's only decent up to 1/4 microsteping at 1/8 it skips like 2 steps 1 before the middle point and one after the middle point, they are recovered with a 2 step jump on the next step after the skipped one. at 1/16 it's jagged movement all the way , and at 1/32 it's just full steps completely. not sure how good other drivers /stepper motors are but it's easy to test by attaching a laser pointer onto the shaft and measuring the distances traveled by the dot when doing a full step or 2 half steps or 4 1/4 microsteps and so on. also another thing to consider is the holding torque is also going down with each layer of microsteping
@jaistanley
8 жыл бұрын
Have you seen the Nema 23 based hybrid servo motors that are available? They take a step/dir signal so might be a worthwhile future upgrade. The DSP in them might add benefits in reducing resonances - with all that moving mass it might just be beneficial. Again, I really appreciate the video. I wish I could get my hands on such a machine to develop. As it stands I am beginning the process of designing something a little less industrial, where possible. I want to be able to print the more difficult engineering plastics such as POM, PEK (if I can afford the material ever!), Nylon and polycarbonate. Long term goal will be to make soft-tool and fixtures with the machine. The new smoothieboard 2 pro that has been teased online looks interesting for your project. The beaglebone black/replicape also has very nice hardware. I'll be very interested to see the results of the heated chamber. I'm currently looking for heaters that I can use in a safe way. So far the internals of a hair-dryer seems a good source - they have a thermo-fuse that will come in very handy if the controller for the SSR fails! Keep up the good work, and many thanks.
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I've seen the motors with integrated drivers. The problem is that there are space constraints with the machine, so I wanted to fit the biggest motor possible, meaning I would have had to sacrifice power. I did some research and apparently the Gecko IS a DSP driver, it's just a bit different than the others. I think I ultimately prefer the Leadshine, but this should work just fine. I could always swap it if I don't end up liking it. The smoothieboard 2 has me interested, but it seems like it's never going to get released, so I'm not holding my breath. When I'm ready to buy, I'll just get whatever is best at the moment. I've looked at the BBB replicape, but I want to stay as far away from BeagleBone as possible. I've worked with them in the past, and I don't agree with their business model or their corporate philosophy, so I won't be supporting their products. I'm actually excited to get into the heated chamber. It SHOULD be as simple as connecting the heater output up to a pair of solid state relays and letting it go, but it could be tricky. There are fans involved, thermal switches, etc. But it should be fun. Thankfully, the machine has tons of safety mechanisms built in, so the thermal fuses (if wired properly) will cut power if it gets too hot, etc. Because these are huge heaters (I think like 6" long) and they are wired directly to AC mains, so they can get HOT I'm sure...
@digitalCr8
7 жыл бұрын
Question: Why do you care about increased speed? Wouldn't you limited by the nozzle / liquefier output? Outstanding video, looking forward to watching the others! Currently I have a bad Y axis motor and am searching for a factory spec replacement - any tips on where to source one in the US?
@RobertCowanDIY
7 жыл бұрын
I only care about speed because I'm silly. Really speed doesn't matter TOO much. Granted, if you have really fast travels, it does cut down on the print time. Believe it or not, all the rapids (from the machine just moving from one spot to the next) do add up over the course of a print, so speeding up these rapids does reduce print time. But getting it to move really fast is just for fun. Check eBay, I have the X, Y, and Z motor for this printer up there. They are in perfect working condition. Just search for stratasys stepper motor, mine's the cheapest.
@jonsenkiw
7 жыл бұрын
Found you by searching for Stratasys 3D printing and found exactly what I was looking for. My workplace just had their 3D printer go down and I am begging them to let me retrofit it with some new parts and make it more reprap. Look forward to your next video. Any reason you are choosing the smoothieboard? More pin outs available to program the heated chamber?
@RobertCowanDIY
7 жыл бұрын
Nice! I went with the smoothieboard because it seemed like the best option. There are only a few good 3d printer boards out there. It was either that or the duet wifi, but that's a newer product and doesn't seem as well thought-out. Plus, it is more complicated when using externals stepper drivers, like I am.
@greyjohnson4124
7 жыл бұрын
Jon Senkiw if they don't want it just try and buy it off them then get yourself a great printer for cheap
@cncdavenz
8 жыл бұрын
Hi Robert, It is strange that the z bearings have a problem as the would be doing less work that any of them, maybe it was the affect of the heat. Cheers Dave.
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Agreed. I might actually let things warm up and see if things expand enough to take up the extra slack, but that's doubtful. It's interesting that those bearings would fail though. As you say, they don't have much load on them.
@11computersrock11
8 жыл бұрын
Subbed, thanks for the awesome video.
@ArthurWolf
8 жыл бұрын
You should so use a Smoothieboard in this. I'm using one in an retrofit of an older stratasys model.
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Yeah?! Do you have any more details on the project? I'm really torn between the smoothieboard and the duet wifi. they both have their pros and cons. but I think the smoothie will be easier to implement, since it's a bit easier to use external stepper drivers.
@ArthurWolf
8 жыл бұрын
I think you should go with Smoothie, but I also started the Smoothie project so you know ... another upside to the Smoothie project is the easier configuration, also the extensibility ( nice when doing weird things, like you are ), the larger community, the awesome documentation. Also you can just email me at wolf.arthur@gmail.com with any question you have about it. Can even give you a small discount I think ( need to check ).
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Hum, good to know, I'll shoot you an email when I'm closer to making a decision, thanks!
@asipolanunta-umporn1778
7 жыл бұрын
Hi Robert, do the Stratasys printers use a direct drive or bowden type extruder? Thanks!
@BenM0
7 жыл бұрын
Hi Dear @Robert Cowan Thank you very much for giving us your awesome information Can you give me your stepper motor's specification? i'm looking for a good specs stepper motor. i think the nema23 series is the best for a large 3d printers. nema17 stepper motors dont have a good specs at all. but,what do you think about 8-wire motors with series or parallel connections?which connection is it better and give us better performance? Best regards
@RobertCowanDIY
7 жыл бұрын
These are pretty simple NEMA23 motors. They are 180oz-in which is plenty for a 3d printer. 4 wire versus 8 wire really depends on the motor and the motor driver. this is a bigger topic and it's hard to explain in a comment. look for tutorials on how to size stepper motors. you want to pay attention to the current rating, inductance, and voltage.
@JonathanRansom
8 жыл бұрын
Super helpful video! Where did you purchase your steppers?
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Thanks. I looked around for the absolute most power in a NEMA23 with that length. I ended up getting them from eBay from this guy: stores.ebay.com/StepperOnline?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 I ended up having an issue with one motor and they were really great about sending me a replacement, no charge. I would recommend them. A lot of the motors you see out there have really high inductance, which means they just won't perform as well, but their motors are all pretty decent.
@np8781
8 жыл бұрын
I see you have your cnc machine but is this your first 3d printer? Interesting route but I hope it turns out to be a solid printer in the end.
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
This isn't my first 3D printer, nor is that my first CNC ;-) I've had a 3D printer for some time, I have a Taz 3 that's been upgraded with hardened linear rails and bearings.
@np8781
8 жыл бұрын
Awesome, It seemed like you already knew a lot about 3d printing from only having CNC machines. Do you not have any videos of your Taz 3 or did i just miss them? I look forward to part 3!
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
I don't have any videos on the Taz 3. I had a quick shot of it in the Intro to CNC video, but other than that, it's just kinda been used here and there for some prototyping of parts. It sits in my office inside, so you won't see it around the shop.
@VLAHECO
8 жыл бұрын
cool.... almost there :D
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
I wish! I've got a long way to go.
@belencsak
6 жыл бұрын
Dear Robert, Could you help me? What is the Stratasys Dimension 768 BST Linear Bearing type? My damaged, I must buy new bearing. Thank you!
@RobertCowanDIY
6 жыл бұрын
You can find bearings on VXB.com or amazon or eBay. Just measure the bearing and find one that fits.
@davidwilliams-xc6kt
8 жыл бұрын
nice project. sub'd.. can you put a name on the lego connectors? Ebay search was not hitting it.
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Sorry, should have been more clear. They are Wago Lever Nuts: www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=wago+lever+nuts&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Awago+lever+nuts They are amazing. They're a bit pricey, but re-usable. The best thing, you can use 28 AWG wire all the way up to 12 AWG. No joke. They hold really tight on the thinnest stuff you have and you can still easily get a big 12 gauge in there as well. Love these things. I consider them a prototyping tool since I rarely install them in anything, I just make solid connections when I'm done prototyping, so a good set of them is worth it.
@NourMuhammad
6 жыл бұрын
I am sorry but the function that you mentioned for calculating the voltage for the stepper motor is it for M.H or H?
@RobertCowanDIY
6 жыл бұрын
It's mH, you can find more information here: www.geckodrive.com/support/step-motor-basics.html
@NourMuhammad
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks, a lot of the small nema17 motors used in 3D printers according to this function requires around 50V! When I started my 3D printer building, I decided to use 24V without a second thought because I know that the more voltage you give the motors the more torque you will get at higher speeds or at least that's what I understand. But for using 48V in a 3D printer, thats orginal :D
@RobertCowanDIY
6 жыл бұрын
Yes, a lot of these cheaper motors have very high inductance, so they SHOULD be running at a much higher voltage, but 3d printers don't really need the speed as much as maybe a CNC machine.
@williampeck428
Жыл бұрын
Yeah I bet you are going to polish those rods but off camera that's a shock for once Mr cohen
@parthamrapurkar1291
2 жыл бұрын
Does anyone know where I can find the Y belts replacement parts?
@RobertCowanDIY
2 жыл бұрын
They're standard gates belts, you just need to know the length. McMaster Carr or SDP/SI should have them. Just google how to determine what type of belt it is (the pitch and width) and determine the overall size and search for that model number.
@MarcelHIC
8 жыл бұрын
Give us the next part. :)
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Haha, I need to get going on it, I know.. :-)
@franklima
8 жыл бұрын
FIY, Micro Stepping does not actually increase resolution. The problem with using micro stepping for resolution increases is repeatability. The actual position of the motor during Micro Stepping is dependant on torque load on the motor. Here is a great Hackaday article on the subject. hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Well, at least I was right in saying I don't fully understand it ;-) Thanks for the link.
@np8781
8 жыл бұрын
While it may not give exact resolution wouldn't it be better to be somewhere between the two steps instead of fully jumping between them?
@Donvladonchik
5 жыл бұрын
what standard driver was in the printer?
@RobertCowanDIY
5 жыл бұрын
Check the first video of the series, it's very custom and made specifically for this printer.
@Donvladonchik
5 жыл бұрын
@@RobertCowanDIY I would like to know its characteristics. But thank you.
@jameslee522
7 жыл бұрын
whats going one with this?
@RobertCowanDIY
7 жыл бұрын
I'm working on the Z axis right now, should have the video done in a few days. Then I need to install the smoothieboard. It's not going to be a quick process!
@jameslee522
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the update.
@brian2k1
8 жыл бұрын
I love those work benches you have with the wood top and outlets on the legs, DIY or can I buy them somewhere? Also if I can suggest something to replace those old bearings, try dry bearings from IGUS www.igus.com/ they will send you a sample kit or if you ask a rep will stop by and help you find the right size and tolerance.
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
They are kinda DIY. The legs are from Edsel, you can get them from Amazon or Home Depot. Just search for 'workbench legs'. All in all, the legs and stringer (thing that goes between the legs for stability) are about $100 in total. The tops are just solid core doors from Home Depot. Those were around $60 each. I then added the outlets and wiring, bringing the final price of each bench to under $200 for a 3 foot deep by 6.5 feet bench. I have 4 of these, so it was a LOT cheaper than buying a pre-made bench. I don't expect the tops to be nearly as durable, but they will be just fine for me. I've tried the dry bearings before, but I might just stick with linear pillow block bearings, since the heated chamber might cause issues with the Igus bearings.
@FabInnov
8 жыл бұрын
Hello Robert, I'm french. Sorry in advance for my english. I will soon attack me on the same subject. I will soon recover the same 3D printer. I hope we can share on the subject :) Good luck and I hope soon. Best regards, Mathieu
@RobertCowanDIY
8 жыл бұрын
Great! Good luck to you as well! You can find my email address in the 'about me' page in my channel.
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