GE model 201 made from 1946 to 1948. Riders schematic shows it as models 200,203 and 205 but is the same. Another fine restoration and Bluetooth addition.
@billdepalma161
16 күн бұрын
Nice looking radio love GE AND Zenith radio enjoy your videos
@rezaarjmand7866
Жыл бұрын
Cool looking vintage radio. nice job. I wished I knew that much about electronics.
@stevefrost3509
Жыл бұрын
Hey Seth you have me sat on the edge of my seat with excitement keep doing what your doing 👍🇬🇧
@jeffreyhickman3871
Жыл бұрын
Your radio resurrection revivals are so exciting. I like to see what’s on the inside of each radio. This looks like 👍 a great radio of days gone by. Too bad I can’t be by your side doing these. Your friend, Jeff.
@KennethScharf
Жыл бұрын
IIRC 12SH7 is a sharp cutoff pentode, 12SG7 is a semi-remote cutoff pentode, and the 12SK7 is a remote cutoff pentode. All can be subed for each other, but the 12SK7 would be a better sub for the 12SG7 than the 12SH7. 12SH7 would be mostly found in an FM radio last IF stage. Pin 1 on the metal tubes does NOT go to the grid (mostly). The suppressor grid on the pentodes (12SK7) is a separate pin from the ground (metal shell). However, the suppressor grid on the 12SA7 pentagrid converter DOES go to pin 1 and the metal shell. On the glass 12SA7GT, the base is usually not a metal sleeve, and pin 1 goes to the suppressor grid ONLY. On the 12SK7GT and 12SQ7GT tubes the base is often a metal shell, and will be connected to pin 1, but NOT the suppressor grid which has its own pin. There are not enough pins on the octal base for the 12SA7 to connect the suppressor grid to its own pin, so it shares the ground pin. Note that the 12BE6 7 pin version of this tube has the suppressor connected to the cathode instead!
@harryshector
Жыл бұрын
I have a feeling that the grounded pin #1 on the octal tube was to ground the case of metal tubes, or the tube shield added to glass envelope tubes, not the grid of the tube.
@markpirateuk
Жыл бұрын
I have the brown Bakelite version of this set, no idea how it ended up in the UK, works really well with all original components.
@juanmiguelcarballo3200
Жыл бұрын
Saludos desde Cuba!
@6A8G
Жыл бұрын
Hey Mister Radio thank you very much for making this.... may I suggest one test which can be made in sets with an RF stage ahead of the tuner? Make a dummy capacitor (a few twists of wire) then extend one of the ends to the grid & plate of the RF valve. Sure you're denying the gain of the stage but there could be a fault in the RF valve which is blocking the signal also. It's cheap (free) & costs maybe a couple of minutes.
@johndonaldson8979
Жыл бұрын
Hey mister Radio , I am new to this radio stuff, love your videos, can you explain more detail on what you are replacing and purpose. Appreciate you!
@thecelticprince4949
Жыл бұрын
Ah Seth you are the master of decapacitation. Any way you can get decals to replace the numbers on the dial glass.
@stormlord55
Жыл бұрын
One of those tubes looks like it said ADT on it. Did the security company have tubes branded for them? I didnt know they had electronic security systems back then.
@dhelton40
Жыл бұрын
Just a quick thought about the aux input you like to add. First, I myself, would probably never want to listen to a modern music source through something that sounds this bad, considering the other small speaker options available. Second, I think in the hands of someone not technically minded, it could damage the output tube or the speaker if driven into clipping by such a external device. The AM signal is highly compressed and of very low bandwidth (not much audio above 4000Hz). If this were on my desk or in my kitchen, I would probably use it to listen to the news and little else. Save a hard to find tube and a speaker reconing...don't add this input. If you must have music, buy a AM modulator and you can have it on all your radios within your house. Sorry, didn't mean to be harsh.
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