Shit I looked all over the internet to try and figure how to brace a house like this. Your the only one that covers it.
@everymancarpentry1712
3 жыл бұрын
Glad it helps! I'll cover this but on a different level on a project in June.
@baggerm8709
9 ай бұрын
Thanks
@chopshop523
Жыл бұрын
So what exactly are you screwing the rim joist into? The floor joist, mud seal, or both?
@everymancarpentry1712
Жыл бұрын
The one we replaced? I can't remember exactly. I think the one that went in we put blocks that were lagged to the next joints over (about 3"), then screwed off to them, the mud sill and the bottom plate of the stud wall above.
@josephj163
Жыл бұрын
Could you use this method to slightly lift the side of a one-story balloon framed house where the exterior walls are sitting on the sill and the floor joists are attached to the side of the sill, rather than running across the top of the sill like is seen in modern construction? In my situation, I would have to attach the 2x10's to the framing of the exterior wall, rather than the end of the floor joists like you did here.
@everymancarpentry1712
Жыл бұрын
The principal is the same, more or less. Attaching to the sill plate the floor joists and the stud framing if you can. Really it's about tying the structure together in as many places as possible. That way the timber screws and temporary 2x10 are carrying to load and transferring it to as many placed as possible. I don't want any one part of the structure or lifting materials to carry any of the load by itself.
@josephj163
Жыл бұрын
@@everymancarpentry1712 I was stumped on how I was going to lift the wall until I came across your video. I ended up doing it in only one spot before seeing your reply. It worked to get a slight lift and remove/replace an 8x6” x 16’ beam that had termite damage. The beam had joists connected to it under the house and was running to... and up under the exterior wall. I had to support all of the joist and get them loose from the beam. There was no way to get the end of the beam out from where it ran to the exterior wall without lifting because the weight of the exterior wall was sitting on top of it. Glad to be done with that repair. I can see one 4-5” crack in the drywall on the wall I lifted near a corner, but I didn’t hear anything break and all appears to be well. The beam is replaced. I hope I don’t have to do it again anytime soon, but if I did, I can see how tying in over a much longer span and more connection points would be the way to do it. Looking back, I totally see what you're saying and that probably wasn't smart of me to lift only one small location like that. Thanks for the video! I'd probably still be trying to figure it out, and ended up saving THOUSANDS by doing it myself.
@TrailTrackers
3 жыл бұрын
Just came across this and I have a question for you. I'm about to begin a project that will require me to exchange every floor joist in a single story house with a basement. There are two catches though I think... #1 The people just had the roof redone last summer and don't want to have to redo that. #2 They want a bearing wall in the basement removed, so I would have to replace the current 2x10 dimensional lumber with taller TJIs. Do you have any ideas? I subscribed and belled so I would be notified if you have time to make a response. Thanks.
@everymancarpentry1712
3 жыл бұрын
First. If they want you to remove a load bearing wall DO NOT DO IT WITHOUT A ENGINEER'S APPROVAL. Get a drawing from a structural engineer. Trust me, if they dont want that, WALK AWAY.
@everymancarpentry1712
3 жыл бұрын
Having said that, look at load tables and span charts for whatever product your swapping for. I would likely be a 1 in one out project. Or putting a steel I beam in place to carry the load. They would still have a header in place where the wall had been. But not a wall. Sounds challenging and scary. Again. CONTACT A STRUCTURAL ENGINEER.
@TrailTrackers
3 жыл бұрын
@@everymancarpentry1712 : Thanks for the response. And for sure I wouldn't even have considered this without running it past my engineer. Without getting into all the "engineer shit" that I pay him to do, load charts for TJIs basically pan out to be 1.5" tall for every foot of span. So a 30' span would require a 20" tall TJI. Or... Multiply the height of the TJI in inches by 1.5 and then say feet as your unit for your span. Hope that makes sense. Anyway, those are the actual sizes I'm dealing with and I was thinking along the 1 in 1 out as well. But with going from a 2x10 (9 1/4") to a TJI that's 20" tall is what's making me scratch my head a bit. LOL... If they hadn't already paid 15K last summer to redo the entire roof and extend it a bit, I would be telling them to let me demo the whole damn thing. I'm telling ya some of these people we deal with just don't think about things in the right order at all. I think in the end (if I take the damn job at all) I'll go with multiple steel I beams in the basement. That should allow me to get the entire house jacked up at one time to the correct height. Then replace each section under each set of I beams along the way by exchanging the steel I beam for 2x4 support walls. The basement is 40' long so I'm thinking 4 sets (3/set) of steel I beams that are a tad over 10' each. Geeze, just typing this is making me think it's going to cost them more to do it this way than just take the loss on the 15K. Or just play it smart and keep the bearing wall in the basement. LOL...
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