Thank you! I truly appreciate the thoroughness of this video. Answered all questions I could not find elsewhere .
@MisterBandanaMan
10 ай бұрын
That was fantastic, thanks for the in depth tear down.
@JGsgarage_unboxings
8 ай бұрын
We make the bearings in that cartridge thing you cut apart. They are stainless steel now. A few years ago we did brass. But moved away from it.
@gordonschweizer5154
8 ай бұрын
Thank you for favoring my channel with your insider knowledge on this workhorse circ.
@JGsgarage_unboxings
8 ай бұрын
@@gordonschweizer5154 no problem. We make lots of parts and seals for pumps and also stuff I'm not allowed to mention. I'm always curious about where some of our parts go. Thanks for showing me
@jfrancis98
2 жыл бұрын
Always wondered what was inside of those. Thanks again. Happy Easter !!
@gordonschweizer5154
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Those cartridges are most surely not meant to be taken apart.
@dubmob151
11 ай бұрын
4:45 where did you get that neat field detector gizmo? I suppose it's like a compass in a small package- what's it normally used for?
@gordonschweizer5154
11 ай бұрын
I got that some years ago as a trade show gimme.
@dubmob151
11 ай бұрын
Found them on Amazon, with the following comment from a buyer that was helpful- "Bought this to test the central heating pump in my boiler because I suspected it was defective. The tester didn't come with particularly helpful instructions, but if held at the center of the motor housing, the indicator dial rotated, so I assumed the pump was running. Upon further investigation, the pump did prove to be defective. It was running but at quite a slow speed. Using a multimeter, I found out that the "run" capacitor (located in the plastic box on top of the pump body) was faulty and read only 1.5 microfarads instead of the 2.5 microfarads shown on its label. With a new capacitor fitted, the pump was back to full strength and the tester began to rotate when held in the position shown in the 1st picture. It didn't do this with the defective capacitor in place. So a few things to note (when testing domestic central heating pumps): 1. The rotation speed of the tester dial does not show the speed of the pump. A central heating pump rotates far more rapidly than the dial on the tester would indicate. 2. I think the dial on the tester is reacting to the fluctuating magnetic field around the pump, and so is showing if the pump is energised, but may not necessarily indicate rotation. See bottom paragraph. 3. With the defective capacitor still in place, the tester needed to be held right against the pump (2nd image) before the dial would rotate. With a healthy run capacitor, the tester detected the magnetic field from much further away . Tested another pump, while preventing the impeller rotating to see what the tester indicates in that case. with a pump on the bench and the impeller prevented from turning, the dial on the tester still rotates, perhaps not quite as strongly as when the impeller is moving freely. Having tried this test I'm not confident that I could tell if a pump was stuck or not using the tester.
@gordonschweizer5154
11 ай бұрын
This is really great info! Thank you very much for posting this.
@dubmob151
11 ай бұрын
@@gordonschweizer5154 and apparently Tacos are more shielded than other brands of pumps, because they tend not to be as easy to pick up the magnetic field.
@garysmith9772
2 жыл бұрын
do you think that adding automotive type water pump lubricant additive to the hydronic system would help extend these water lubricated pumps life.. and or flushing systems with cleaner water i.e. less abrasive particles to help pump bearings.. just a thought.
@gordonschweizer5154
2 жыл бұрын
I truly don't know the answer to your question. I'd check with the manufacturer on that one. On this very same system, the system pump, a Taco 007-F5 of the same age as the failed pump shown in the video, was still working. 20 years is not bad in any case. Other folks who have much more experience than I say it is best to flush out a system before it is put into operation using various "approved" chemical/water cocktails. I have used a very small amount of hand dishwashing liquid added to a new boiler start-up on old systems to help get the bubbles out, but that's it as far I've used chemicals on hot water heating systems. I'm not even sure it really works.
@CanadaRulez4Ever
11 ай бұрын
thank you good sir for the explanations! I think a faulty capacitor in my 7 yo Taco 006 causes slow/unreliable start of the circulator under load; I replaced the cartridge, it improved the situation, but still it does not always start immediately under water pressure. I starts fine when trying it dry as you did. Any opinion on that? Thank you again!
@gordonschweizer5154
11 ай бұрын
Is the volute where the impeller spins free of rust?
@CanadaRulez4Ever
11 ай бұрын
@@gordonschweizer5154 yes, it's clean as new
@gordonschweizer5154
11 ай бұрын
Your 006 might benefit from getting the old capacitor replaced, but I would also check if the voltage supplied to it is consistent. Something seems off somewhere.
@CanadaRulez4Ever
11 ай бұрын
@@gordonschweizer5154 yeah, it was strange, now it seems to get back to normal after maybe 2 days of on and off running; maybe it was air in the pipes (although I flushed them in diff places) or smth else. I don't know anymore. But it works and stable now. Thanks!
@dubmob151
11 ай бұрын
Did you ever have aTaco pump with an integrated IFC valve to look at? This is an integral flow check valve that prevents gravity flow and ghost circulation from occurring when the pump is off, using a spring loaded diaphragm in a plastic body. I think i have a failure on mine so the thermostat is no longer in control of heat regulation, with the temperature running up beyond the set point unless i just shut the boiler down completely. I expect i might see the diaphragm ruptured or something, not much to it other than that. Yet it's a 30 dollar part, so I'm going to replace the whole pump instead for another 98 dollars.
@gordonschweizer5154
11 ай бұрын
I think you have the right of it. I've seen that inner part on the "newer" 007s. For those who might not be familiar with it, It's a white plastic assembly with a spring and rubber seal and outer O ring to seat it on the pump's outlet.
@dubmob151
11 ай бұрын
@@gordonschweizer5154 I wonder if it is a common failure type of item or do they last the lifetime of the pump itself? I'm thinking they're priced based on them very rarely being replaced. If they fail on a regular basis, I'd think they'd drop on price with the high production volume or the aftermarket stepping in.
@gordonschweizer5154
11 ай бұрын
@@dubmob151 Can't say for sure, but you make good points. I'm not as conversant in hot water as I might be with steam.
@70ixlr86
8 ай бұрын
We have a hydronic system with 2 zones valves, and a open loop to our garage ceiling mount, thermostatically controlled fan unit. On the paper work for the 007E it states not recommended for open loop systems. I have both the older style 007 and the 007E in hand. Its -10 outside and the old pump is rumbling. Should I not use the 007E in this system?
@gordonschweizer5154
8 ай бұрын
Since it is an open (exposed to atmosphere?) system, a circ with a stainless volute should be used, not one with a regular iron body as it will rust up. What pressure are you running the system at? If you are below certain pressures and at higher temperatures, the water will cavitate (or "boil") in the volute, causing further damage to the pump. Something about NPSH (tongue-in-cheek Not Pumping So Hot) or Net Pump Suction Head considerations.
@Tko_Seven
8 ай бұрын
The o'ring facing the cartridge and flange gaskets are different size? Would it work if I can find some applicable seal for partially worn o'ring?
@gordonschweizer5154
8 ай бұрын
That would be a question best answered by Taco tech service. I am not sure I have the correct answer.
@jasonjohnsonHVAC
2 жыл бұрын
Was it connected to a VFD or was it an ECM circ pump.
@gordonschweizer5154
2 жыл бұрын
Neither, I think. As I said, it's just an ordinary 007 from 2001. As to if it was run on a VFD, you'll have to ask Burnham regarding their Revolution boiler series. My understanding from their tech service was that the little PC board I saw received input from a resistive temperature sensor strapped to the boiler's outlet and chopped the voltage peak based on that. Is that a VFD? l donno. I'm normally a steam heat guy.
@skyheatingair
7 ай бұрын
Hi what cues the 007 or 0014 pump overloud ? and over heat ?
@gordonschweizer5154
7 ай бұрын
These circs tend to run fairly hot normally. If the rotor locks up, they'll be even hotter. You might have a chunk of something stuck in the vanes of the impeller.
@skyheatingair
7 ай бұрын
@@gordonschweizer5154 Yes sir thank you very much for taking time to respond my question. It’s new pump no restriction, rated for 0.7 amp and is pulling 3.5 amp overloaded, possibly system pump or the primary loop pushing water, to fast Taco pump installed on AHU with heating coil control by Honeywell 3 way mixing valve The reason install new because the valve must open 55% to start feeling the heat going to the coil , there is no air in system
@gordonschweizer5154
7 ай бұрын
Hard to tell if wet rotor circs are actually spinning. Sometimes using the old "screwdriver stethoscope" method works. Perhaps the capacitor has died?
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