The bolt runner is quite clearly applying a sideways force on the nut, I would suggest doing the test with twin ropes and clipping the nut on a separate strand. Having a bit more slack on the bolt rope would then be the back-up should the nut fail
@somanayr
2 жыл бұрын
Because of the bolt placement, the load on the gear was more outwards than downwards. I wonder if you would have had the same issues if you using a double or quadruple length sling instead of a shoulder length sling?
@largeformatlandscape
2 жыл бұрын
This is the problem… the sling redirected the load out and left, twisting the gear out of the placement. Definitely a good idea to extend gear anyway, to try to ensure a downward load but if you guess an outward pull at 45 degrees with a possible left or right pull as well, you won’t go too far wrong. With funny placed gear a really long sling is useful to endure direction of pull, consider it life saving rather than for comfortable fall
@alevans1168
2 жыл бұрын
I was thinking the same, that coupled with the amount of tension in the rope. It's problem I have noticed a lot with people new to trad climbing, they don't have enough slack in the rope and pull the gear upwards.
@logiconabstractions6596
2 жыл бұрын
TOtally. You can see the bolt's sling being somewhat taunt on the slow-motion replay (put it a 0.25 time speed)
@imxd9698
2 жыл бұрын
this is why it's good to fully extend nut placements and always consider your direction of pull, I cam would have held here.
@simold13
2 жыл бұрын
Cams are primarily for cracks into the cliff - you want to avoid using them behind features as these placements are.
@jezzadee87
2 жыл бұрын
interesting - looks like the bolt runner introduced a sideways pull on the nut and yanked it out. generally, I would be wary of placing a nut under a partially detached block/flake, too... as for the cam, probably not enough movement in a small cam to pry the block off, but reckon block would flex enough for cam to open up and slide out as block flexes?
@esiron1
2 жыл бұрын
I just subbed you for your intro, love all the outdoor sports you do !
@zanestathakis30
2 жыл бұрын
This technique takes longer to place but when I place nuts, after setting I then yank it towards the horizon and even slightly upwards to see if it moves and if it moves how it moves. Based on that I then know wether this will hold if I fall not in a straight downward position.
@simold13
2 жыл бұрын
There is too much going on here to fit in a comment, so I'll just pick a couple of points. The glaring thing about the placements you made was that the crack appears to be behind a suspect block (while a crack straight into the cliff is clearly visible in the video right in front of you). It's hard to evaluate such a block on a video (even in real life sometimes), but you can easily get flexing when you load a piece in a position like this. Also - if you get more scared as you get further away from the hard, hard ground and get in more gear, well, you might need to re-think things....
@poolplayerbrian
2 жыл бұрын
Nice videos! I'm getting into rock climbing since i've moved to an area where it is a common sport, and purchased nuts and offset nuts. I've done some practicing on placing them at ground level on large boulders. It is not as easy as it looks to get a solid placement. We have tons of sport routes in my area and I'm going to utilize this technique of backing up with a bolt to refine my abilities before I start traditional climbing for real.
@thegravityshed6689
2 жыл бұрын
Sport routes are a really good place to practice providing the rock isn’t too soft. There is a place in Somerset called Ham Hill where the sandstone is so soft that gear just destroys the rock. Offsets are mint just get them as deep as possible. Thank you for watching.
@trillbrown3686
2 жыл бұрын
Hi mate. Just a warning at 7mins in you clip the crab with the bent gate to the wire and fall on it. Just be careful that doesn't put a burr in the crab that could damage the rope next time you clip the rope into it i.e. use the straight gates for gear and bent gates for rope.
@libertine5606
2 жыл бұрын
The placement wasn't bad. The runner length and the rope direction from the bolt was. And, please, don't just grab something and try to cram it in. Look at the crack, visualize which piece is best, and place it. If you don't get it right the first time it is a fail. When you are playing for keeps it will pay off. Again, you are driving me crazy! If you just try to slide or cram a piece in it can get stuck in a bad place then you will have to try to fish it out while becoming more gripped. Learn to pick the right piece first time! And how a fall will pull on all the pieces. If the rock goes in then out it is going to pull out unless the runner is long enough. Look at the angle from the stopper and the bolt. When you tension the rope it is not giving you a downward pull. It is not the piece it is you! Your trad leading card is revoked! You need another full length runner on the bolt and a full length runner on the stopper and as you pass keep the rope "quite" so the stopper doesn't move. Better to take a little longer fall with a longer runner than having the piece come out.
@Doctor_Yuri
2 жыл бұрын
This isn't bad advice in the end but if you pretend you never try more than one size stopper when climbing you're a straight up liar. Dont be a nerd
@libertine5606
2 жыл бұрын
@@Doctor_Yuri I didn't say that I never get it wrong, just that I consider it a fail when I do. The point is people don't look at the crack and take the time to pick the right one the first time. Then they take more time fiddling around and end up wasting more time than doing it right the first time. Usually when its easy, then when it counts they slap something in, hope it hold, and it fails and the climb becomes "dangerous" because a bunch of kooks should have had their leading cards revoked. And this is not about being a nerd, this is about getting the best piece in when it counts. Usually these kooks get away with it on a 5.6 but don't pass the 5.7 without a fractured femur or worse. kzitem.info/news/bejne/pKB7zGdmf3ZorKQ
@maxmaeser1001
2 жыл бұрын
Interesting video mate! I'm looking forward to more. Yet I feel this placement was good and because of the bolt you had a two way pull on that nut and that's probably why it didn't hold.
@Cardsandstoagies
2 жыл бұрын
That is some serious choss
@dangerdave138
Жыл бұрын
its fun how as climbers we can relate the brain error that a lack of gear provides, and then we're like meh whatever and move forward anyway.
@rockclimbinghacks9222
2 жыл бұрын
Interesting. Try it again with a fully extended runner.
@johnparla6252
9 ай бұрын
The best fall I took was on a ball nut on a 5.10a nambed not slip in ct 👍
@NPC-fl3gq
9 ай бұрын
I don't know why ballnutz don't get more love... Yeah I know they aren't perfect - nothing is - but they can be damn handy and are often stronger than tiny cams. I love em!! (Cheap too). And fwiw the trango ones are made in the same factory as the camp ones - so save yourself the $$$
@TheLordsaviour
3 жыл бұрын
I remember the first and only time I fell on a cam, yellow totem, it held well. Fairy cave, remember it?
@thegravityshed6689
3 жыл бұрын
Yup, the cam caught you just as you had a close encounter with a tree 😅
@TheLordsaviour
2 жыл бұрын
@@thegravityshed6689 still got the scars now
@chris1988brown
3 жыл бұрын
Interesting video mate enjoyed that , fair play wouldn’t catch me doing that never mind falling on purpose 😂
@cameron_bray
2 жыл бұрын
Any reason for back clipping the first bolt?
@collinrottinghaus6480
2 жыл бұрын
3:04 ? That's not backclipped
@redalert2834
2 жыл бұрын
In summary, then, you have a 50% chance of surviving your first fall. If you survive, the odds might improve slightly on subsequent falls, should you decide not to take up another hobby.
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