Just a suggestion that if you can’t get a torque wrench on there, you can use a paint pen to make a line across the nut and the end of the bolt. This will allow for easy inspection to see if the nut is backing out. To inspect it, you won’t be able to see them without removing a wheel but there is enough space to put a cell phone up there and shoot a video with the wheel on and not jacked up.
@mirvine1
Жыл бұрын
Maybe the best Tesla service video I have seen so far. - Great Work
@Saltcitysneakerheads
3 ай бұрын
Question! I need to replace my sway bar links really bad! I have a 2016 with the same body style and number . My sway bar is also linked to the knuckles but my sway bar is connected to the knuckle in that circle where you have a green mark with a plug on the knuckle. How would I put an Allen wrench in there and hold it while I spin it? It’s too deep to put a wrench and if I put a socket I can’t put the Allen wrench in there! Any help? Lol 4:20
@NZCUTR
3 ай бұрын
The tool you're looking for is called a pass through socket wrench -- and yes, you'll need to get a socket set for that wrench. They're literally a socket wrench that has a hole in the middle of the head and the sockets are attached along their outside periphery to the wrench (instead of snapping onto a hub). That should solve your access issue (must be air suspension or some other iteration to use the different mounting point?). I hesitate to link anything as I'm not endorsing a particular set and I don't know that it contains the size you need -- but I will, just to illustrate what you're looking for. There are lots of options and they're not expensive. Here's an example: www.amazon.com/Crescent-Pass-Thru-Standard-Spline-Mechanics/dp/B08P57WYP3?ref_=ast_sto_dp
@geoffcarlton4047
3 жыл бұрын
Great vid, videos like these give me the confidence to tackle these jobs.
@lnesland
9 ай бұрын
Great job. Thanks for sharing. Just what I need to do on my Model S 🙂
@victord5462
2 жыл бұрын
Amazing video. As my car ages I am starting to replace these parts. FYI, for the rear upper links, you have to drop the subframe to replace them.
@NZCUTR
2 жыл бұрын
Oh my. I'll have to look into that when the time comes. Probably leave that for a local mechanic or service center -- the main point to DIY is so that I can NOT DIY when it makes more sense to do so.
@jonp4811
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the detailed video! I’m pretty sure I have this exact problem.
@scottmcintosh9
3 жыл бұрын
This video is GREAT! Your explanation of everything suspension was "eye-opening". My 2015 Model S has a sway bar link issue as well. With the front end lifted on both sides (as you demonstrated) I was able to replicate my annoying 'klunking' sound by tapping the link with a rubber mallet. I STILL haven't found a good source for Tesla parts though.... Do you have a trusted vendor you'd like to share?
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
The service center parts prices are a bit hit and miss, but suspension pieces are generally reasonable. You may be able to get them to ship to you, if you can get someone on the phone. I also use Rock Auto for all my cars, including the Tesla. They have a pretty comprehensive selection of aftermarket parts.
@changemaison
2 жыл бұрын
Next Time, by moving with the car slowly shake left and right Quick and hard and you will ear the knocking sound of swaybar link
@tbgoog
3 жыл бұрын
Great vid and very helpful explanations - just changed mine as well on a 2014 Model S.... and the knocking is gone. Endlich! ;-)
@dandemir5893
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for showed every details... best video.
@m1geo
2 жыл бұрын
This video is excellent. I have a heavy but small mechanical clunking at slow speed. Suspect this may well be it!
@johnnywatches247
Жыл бұрын
The top joints are rusted due to water coming down the top of the vehicle, draining into the D pillar and exiting into the wheel well on top of the joint. Most manufacturers have a leader hose that drains it away from the suspension and onto the backside of the wheel well, not causing any rust. As you pointed out, engineers need to watch these videos and pay attention to the comments to make a better product, I suggest using some blue skin and adhesion to direct the water away from the suspension by way of creating a flap at the exit of the D pillar and onto the backside of the wheel well. And then painted black to look like the rest of the wheel well
@johnnywatches247
Жыл бұрын
Edited because Siri doesn’t know voice to text too well
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
Hmm.. interesting. I'll have to look into that next time I'm digging around under there. Thanks for tip!
@nikelliot8105
Жыл бұрын
I have the same noise but from the rear. Are the droplinks at the back pretty much the same to change please?
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
They're very similar -- but there's a lot of other components that might be in the way? My S has coil suspension and does not have the rear droplinks that attach the sway bar to the rear lower control arm -- but if you watch this video you can see where they would attach and probably figure out how to change them (and remove other components if they're in the way): kzitem.info/news/bejne/tKGczIaApoiclpw
@K0ub1
3 жыл бұрын
Great video. Thank you. Gotta do the same soon to my Model S
@brandonbarr2784
2 жыл бұрын
I did it watching your video. No more sounds at parking lot speeds
@SuncityDirtMachine
3 жыл бұрын
Great video sir, so I’m here because my fore link failed yesterday but wanted to ask how easy would it be to replace my fore link? I thought I’d ask since you worked in the area where the link is located. TIA
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
I can't imagine it is much different, assuming you have access to the bolts. For some of the links the bolts can't come back out like normal because the battery is in the way. Most folks just loosen, cut off and the replace with the new bolts reversed and the excess cut off-- which is totally fine. Just work slow and careful and make sure you follow torque spec on suspension parts.
@toshatoshazakerzaker2505
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all the extra details. Love your videos!!
@kodywillnauer9422
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video. I'm getting similar low pitched 'thunk' when going over transitions to driveways/roads/speedbumps. Like gravel jostling in my frunk. I am going to reach out to the service center and ask for these parts. Thanks for the part numbers in this video, that was extremely useful. I've replaced a door handle, 12v, headlights, and now I think it's time for sway bar links. Still wondering if I am brave enough for my bubbling screen behind my wheel :)
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
If you have MCU2, the screen is just a straight swap (no board, just connector) but if you have MCU1 then typically you're going to end up better off just doing the upgrade to MCU2. I looked into DIY eMMC repair (before the recall) and the removal from the dash is very tedious and parts prone to breakage. Once you're into the "I'll pay labor" for Tesla to fix either screen you're most of the way to a whole new MCU2, which solves a number of other issues (for me) like LTE upgrade and faster maps/route planning.
@kodywillnauer9422
Жыл бұрын
@@NZCUTR this is probably my plan- fix all the small things I can and with the money saved just spend that on the mcu. I do have a replacement mcu1 screen behind the wheel. I just don’t know if I trust the 10y/o plastic to do it myself.
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
From my observations/anecdotes -- the trim panel to the left of the steering wheel is the one most likely to break, especially if you wood trim there as it's prone to chipping. The clips are mostly metal on plastic, so those areas are pretty robust but that's also the risk; to get enough force to pop them you're stressing the thinner parts while are visible and/or finished edges. But swapping like-for-like driver display should be doable, just be ready to redeploy software afterwards (or do with software update queued but not installed).
@kodywillnauer9422
Жыл бұрын
@@NZCUTR I just have the black plastic. Before yours was replaced did you get a fan buzzing noise behind the dash? I feel like the problem is related to the screen or something rubbing/vibrating as the fan spins but it goes away
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
No, my MCU1 was working perfectly. I took it in for preemptive eMMC recall/LTE upgrade and they broke the screen during the replacement and ended up giving me free MCU2, new dash pad (as they mangled the old one) and a new end trim piece because they chipped the wood. I think a gorilla must have been trying to extract my old MCU.
@compactdiscoutlet8397
4 ай бұрын
where did you get the replacement 15mm nut? is it a dorman?
@NZCUTR
4 ай бұрын
I just purchased new sway bar links from Tesla since they were (at the time) same price as non-OEM brands. The Tesla parts came with new nuts on them.
@mdbbox5660
3 жыл бұрын
Good video, saved for later. I see your front brake pads have "ears" on them as well. I replaced my front pads with a set of Bosch Quietcast ceramics last year. They are actually not made for the car, but they fit anyway and do a good job. They have little "ears" that stick up above the caliper. I was surprised to see another S with brake pads like that.
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
Some pads have the ears, some do not -- they're not critical to brake operation, they're just there to reduce resonance/noise. I actually knocked one of the weights off during routine brake service... and I do wonder if the occasional noise I get is related but it's not a big deal.
@peteroffpist1621
Жыл бұрын
Nice video thanks. But I have a different klonk sound from the rear drive unit. I only hear it at low speed when I press the gas pedal and also when I release the gas pedal. There is like a play on the drive shafts when I lift the car and turn the wheels forwards or backwards. Any suggestions?
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
I can't diagnose much from afar-- but I can tell you that the axle splines where they connect to the drive unit are known to shave down and rattle over time. Often the easiest fix is just to add more grease, but I'm not sure what the spec for that is. Another possibility that more common with Performance variants is that the drive unit mounts themselves will shear, usually on one side first, an create a noise that merits attention. Finally, I would look at the various suspension arms and their bushings-- especially if the car actively pulls to one side when accelerating and then the opposite side under regen.
@peteroffpist1621
Жыл бұрын
@@NZCUTR Thanks very much, just curious of the most common issues for clonk sound if it’s not bearing sound, suspension or linkarms. I will test adding some grease to the half shafts.
@edougage
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video. I have the same issue on my model s. I was wondering if the replacement of the link is doable with only one side lifted up as I have only one car jack or should I get another one to lift both sides.
@NZCUTR
2 жыл бұрын
This link isn't ride height sensitive-- that's really only a concern with bushings, not ball joints.
@edougage
Жыл бұрын
@@NZCUTR thank you for the quick reply but I am not sure to completely understand it (english is not my mother tongue sorry) does this mean I can do it without lifting up both side please?
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
Yes -- for the links only -- you can replace one side at a time, without lifting both at the same time.
@MyVeniceTransfer
Жыл бұрын
Ho many NM (newtometer) force to close? Thnx
@KirkPe-wv6fo
Жыл бұрын
Did you do a replacement for the rear links? Need a video !🙏
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
No rear sway bar/links on my config, which surprised me! But pretty common. The replacement should be similar though-- and I do have rear lower control arm/end link replacement video that covers everything else in that area.
@KirkPe-wv6fo
Жыл бұрын
@@NZCUTR that’s funny!!! I was trying to find mines also and my 2014 AP1 doesn’t have either!!! Will check you ur other video…think it’s the lower control arm bushings
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
When my rear lower control arm broke I was going through the service manual and noticed the rear sway bar links were missing... as was the bar. Since I'd had a drive unit replacement under warranty years ago, I wondered if maybe they'd neglected to reinstall stuff and couldn't figure out why I wouldn't have noticed. Checked with my SC and had them confirm that certain configurations did not have rear sway bars-- I forget what the breakdown was, but it was just weird to me that service manual didn't have a "if equipped" disclaimer or something on those steps. Anyway--- that sent me a on deep dive of suspension "theory" and long story short (because I forget the details): it makes sense not thave one on RWD electric and adding one would likely make handling substantially worse. I think it would, under enthusiastic driving, shift from a pleasant rear drift to a crippling and easily induced understeer, IIRC.
@brandonbarr2784
2 жыл бұрын
Have you replaces the links for the rear? I am having similar issues.
@NZCUTR
2 жыл бұрын
I have not replaced them YET, but def some wear on them and I am likely to do soon. My car is due for a state inspection in the next couple months and if they flag it, I'll be doing sooner! Looks pretty straightforward (just two bolts) but I haven't dug into my service manual yet to be sure. With the rear links it's likely you need to mimic the suspension position under load before tightening bolts to torque as they have integrated bushings -- but again, I haven't actually looked it up in manual yet.
@benc1927
2 жыл бұрын
We too have a 2014 and it's making a knocking sound when making very sharp turns at low speeds from the front left driver tire. Once up to speed the noise goes away though.
@NZCUTR
2 жыл бұрын
This would be consistent with a number of suspension joints, including the stabilizer links. They pretty much can't be heard at speed as road/tire noise drowns them out.
@benc1927
2 жыл бұрын
@@NZCUTR Tesla wanted $2700 to replace them all.
@parkrr2094
Жыл бұрын
9:00 the forbidden airpod
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
LOL.... made me look.
@lydiecakes3337
Жыл бұрын
Thank U for this video and the awesome explanation of what I am kinda looking at. I think mine is not a sway bar issue but uppers or maybe my rack. 😞 At low speed take off I get a noise and vibration. Kinda like the shutter from hard acceleration but this is even at slow. Worse when acceleration and turning. 😞 I'm scared of what the SC will give me as an estimate.
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
Hard to say -- could just be a ball joint, so maybe not so bad. There's a lot of parts interacting so it can be hard to nail down and then (of course) always a temptation to give to "project creep" and replace a lot of stuff while you're there anyway.
@lydiecakes3337
Жыл бұрын
@@NZCUTR TSC loves to just add to things to Ur service.
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
Sometimes (oftentimes?) it does make sense to get things "while you're there"... but not always. You really have to weigh it on a case by case basis. For instance, for sway bar links there really isn't anything else that is convenient to do at the same time so they're a standalone repair. When I just did the rear lower control arms, however, the links attached to them are only one additional bolt so they're an easy "might as well" add on for minimal cost in parts and my time.
@lydiecakes3337
Жыл бұрын
@NZCUTR It's all about if U are going in there to do it, might as well do all that U can at once and not have to stress or go back into it.
@punkrockoclock
Жыл бұрын
Where would I get the sway bar links for a model X?
@NZCUTR
Жыл бұрын
Try the Tesla Service Center -- they can quote over the counter part prices in the app. I found them to be pretty close to what generic part prices were ON CERTAIN THINGS (like sway bar links). So I always try them first. Other times... like brake parts, aftermarket is significantly less for comparable (or better) parts.
@toshatoshazakerzaker2505
3 жыл бұрын
Is there a video on the upper control arm replacement? Thanks
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
Not until I have to do one! Don't jinx me.
@Killahkron1992
2 жыл бұрын
Did you get your part at tesla?
@captainq8276
3 жыл бұрын
Is it possible to change only the upper balljoint without removing the whole arm? Three bolts that are flat, how do you remove these?
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
The joint is integral to the control arm -- you replace the whole arm (which comes with a new ball joint).
@Toob41
9 күн бұрын
I've watched hundreds of DIY videos on KZitem and THIS is absolutely the BEST instructional video ever! Thank you so much, my Tesla is now rattle free. NZCUTR superstar.
@NZCUTR
8 күн бұрын
Thank you! I'm not flashy.... but I try to (often long-windedly) help yinz folks out.
@JMathew21
2 жыл бұрын
how and where did you buy your tesla parts from?
@NZCUTR
2 жыл бұрын
The links were purchased over the counter at my Tesla service center. I've previously purchased brake parts from RockAuto.com and misc fasteners from eBay.
@oootassss
3 жыл бұрын
Very informative. Thank you.
@oootassss
3 жыл бұрын
Going to change this before I have this problem. 2016 85D (82k miles)
@kanetesla3102
3 жыл бұрын
My steering is stiff when turning. I’ve recently had the front upper ball joints replaced on both sides. It might be the parts you have shown that I now need to replace my car is over 4 years old and 155000miles on it.
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
I have heard that the universal joints in the steering column can become tight with corrosion. Often the wheel will "notch" slight as the joints spin around and around. You would likely have to remove the frunk to get a look at them (and I think they're readily visible then) unless you have a camera-scope of some kind. KZitem comments don't allow for attaching pictures, but you can see the two joints I'm referring to in this picture: www.ebay.com/i/293213483666?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293213483666&targetid=935065066987&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9005926&poi=&campaignid=10833562019&mkgroupid=110337299927&rlsatarget=pla-935065066987&abcId=9300396&merchantid=111836155&gclid=CjwKCAiAzNj9BRBDEiwAPsL0d9D-sxgKBEzzKuLAx99W5gDcfAkvx6JcMtBXDe5v5t9fsxTU3lWBWRoCySMQAvD_BwE
@rayb3365
3 жыл бұрын
handy video thanks. You should really have a block under the car. I've knows those jacks to loose pressure and slowly lower over a few hours.
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
I am very careful not to be under any component/part of the car-- she's heavy! But even if the jack loses pressure it's still going to be under the car's jackpad, so I can just pump it back up again. If the jack fails, then the car would drop, but the thickness of the jack will keep it from contacting the ground and I have other jacks available to nestle into place. I understand your point, but I think it's really only an issue if you're going to be under the jack and/or are using a bottle jack or a scissor jack that can tip over completely and leave you with no way of getting back under the car. A floor jack at least leaves you with its thickness to get a secondary jack back under a car if necessary. The S is pretty stiff, structurally, so while I haven't tried it, I would not be surprised if it would sit there in "tripod" mode; I've rotated tires front to back using only one jackpoint to lift the entire side.
@clintwood9480
3 жыл бұрын
I have similar problems and tried this on my 2018 Model S... seemed relatively simple (excellent video), but my front sway bar links are attached in a different orientation. The top end is attached through the "knuckle" and is more difficult to reach. I think the rotor has to be removed for proper access. Has anyone else encountered this? Any advice on how to do it?
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
Oh interesting... I have not looked closely at newer iterations of the S with the wheels off. If it's anything like my 2014, there are two bolts on the back of the caliper (remove with pads/pins/etc. in place) and then a star bolt on the front the of the rotor to release it. It might be STUCK so be prepped to do a little manual persuasion to pop it off.
@gobeforeshow
3 жыл бұрын
Great video. Thanks!
@Danmark4all
3 жыл бұрын
Great video 👍
@Nicoolai
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you. Musch appreciated!
@UnclePaulgarage
3 жыл бұрын
Do you have a link to buy the part
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
I don't.... I just emailed service center and they pulled the version/config appropriate part for me. They were not expensive.
@jonkellogg6843
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Tony Stark.
@NZCUTR
3 жыл бұрын
HA! I have gotten that comment a few times... I think it's a complement? Though to me, if anything, I sound like Tony Stark with a head cold (if I'm feeling generous).
Пікірлер: 93