I used to take lead falls on tiny gear on purpose so yes I get it. no revo for me I have my trusty silent partner. my first Silent Partner did wear out so the day may come where I'm looking for a new device so I appreciate what you're doing
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
Slappy thanks!!
@HowNOT2
4 жыл бұрын
I love the human testing! haha
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
HowNOTtoHIGHLINE Thank you Mr. Jenks!! Testing on humans is the final step before it can be recommended to the “public”!!
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
5 жыл бұрын
LOOK at the following video! Fall Factor 2 on the Revo: the rope is wrecked and Revo too!!! kzitem.info/news/bejne/x29q2KaEnJOKdaQ
@johnliungman1333
4 жыл бұрын
Nice to see it tested beyond what it is made for. The basic design could probably be used for a silent partner replacement if it was adapted for this. But the current configuration (including the heightened speed at which it engages) is obviously not ideal. I would also like to point out that the setup you show is clogging, not rope soloing. Also, remember that in both of those scenarios the weight of the rope below you may be significant to the behaviour of the device.
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
When you say clogging, you mean top rope soloing vs lead solo climbing? Absolutely! Yes the weight of the rope on death side can trigger the “repetitive unlock failure” of the Revo. See other video on my channel about this very topic!
@swashington942
2 жыл бұрын
I have a question for you John
@oualt2322
3 жыл бұрын
Salut Yann,bravo et merci pour tes vidéos,c'est propre et très clair,j'ai 48 ans,je grimpe depuis la fin du siècle dernier, je fais des grandes voies en solo depuis un bon moment maintenant,environ 10ans,classique ou trad,et j'ai travaillé sur corde un bon moment aussi... Je solote toujours avec un gri gri,et en checkand une de tes vidéos,je me suis acheté un revo ,l'an dernier,je l'ai modifié'(merci pour les conseils),et en fait ,je n'ai aucune confiance dans le revo, trop compliqué comme système,je dirais même fragile, je pense qu'il faut aller au plus simple, donc je garde mon bon vieux gri gri première génération...merci et bravo pour ce que tu fais,même si sur le fond ,je désapprouve les tutos sur le ropesoloing, beaucoup de gens s'y mettent trop rapidement et le nombre d'accident explose...je pense que grace à tes explications,tu contribues à limiter le nombre de grosse bêtisse en falaise. Bonne grimpe !...Je viens de me prendre un portaledge...sympa les aller et retour pour monter tout le matos !....
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
3 жыл бұрын
Ca fait plaisir! Oui je trouve que le Revo est bien si tu es quasi-certain de ne pas tomber. Un grigri est plus "passe partout". Cependant pas si simple de trouver une source fiable pour les détails du système, les dangers spécifiques, etc. De là les cours que j'offre sur mon site bliss climbing!!! Merci pour le feedback :-)
@fultonius
5 жыл бұрын
Could you not have shown us what the damage was? It's a bit frustrating having it just off screen.
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment! Here is the damage :-) facebook.com/BlissClimbing/posts/2993798397357827
@limbworks
4 жыл бұрын
I checked out the picture on facebook showing the damage and read the comments there. So is the damage is from falling on a Revo that's already locked off? Thought it would be nice to be able to quickly lock it off manually if you know your about to fall to lessen your travel. Now I'm thinking that's not such a good idea if it's going to cause damage. Interested to know how you modified it. Couldn't find it online it I understand not wanting to share that publicly. I've been climbing for years with a Silent Partner but had to sell it a while back. Have regretted it ever since!
@SeraphinoII
4 жыл бұрын
A VERY importan thing is that if you are high enough the weight of the rope can unlock it. Then it will lock again and unlock until the weight of the rope isn't enough to disengage the metal part which block the inside mechanism. I think " Gunk climber" said something about It. So a device specifically made for that role Is better than One which Is not? Surprising... Wouldn't It be a better comparison between a grigri and a Revo?
@spaceman8839
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much! subscribed
@kirutrailic8227
Жыл бұрын
What does modified Revo mean? Is Revo better for lead rope solo than GriGri+? Why? Which issues solve modifications?
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
Жыл бұрын
blissclimbing.com/en/blog/2023/04/27/q-what-is-the-best-system-for-lead-rope-solo-climbing/ and people modify the Revo to make it catch at lower speeds… makes sense?
@kirutrailic8227
Жыл бұрын
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Thanks, and if you should use only one belay device (available in stores), which would it be and why?
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
Жыл бұрын
@@kirutrailic8227 for everything? (Rappel, belay a leader, belay someone from above, belay someone on TR, TRS and LRS?)
@kirutrailic8227
Жыл бұрын
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing for lead rope solo and without making modifications, that change something in device... but I would like to buy semi-automatic belay device and use it for lead rope solo too but only in easy routes very occasionally (I have CT RollnLock so maybe with it in set for sport routes)
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
Жыл бұрын
@@kirutrailic8227 I don’t understand sorry. Check my online course, you will learn a TON. And I will take the time to answer in private.
@Jay-kk3dv
2 жыл бұрын
It's my understanding that the silent partner works so well because its stopping action is caused by the hitch knot tightening around the cylinder rather than other devices that use cams. You can also back it up with another device. So, why did they stop manufacturing it?
@skyking6989
5 ай бұрын
To my knowledge, it was because the cost of production was costing more then they could sell it for.
@antonioalarconmarquez8503
4 жыл бұрын
hola yann el revo lo encuentras mas seguro que el silent o que el soloits? gracias un saludo
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
No no! Basicamente, el Silent is safer. Pero tienes que entender que la seguridad no viene de las herramientas pero mas bien del escalador... ?Eso tiene sentido?
@HoratioBannister
5 жыл бұрын
I enjoy your informative videos very much and look forward to your lead, rope solo videos. Currently I lead rope solo with a GriGri+ and everytime I consider checking out the revo, I get a sick feeling in my stomach as tests show damage to the rope, or (now) damage to the device. This does not lead to trust! I will be interested to see what your conclusions are over time and if Wild Country will come out with an updated product. I am considering a SP. For tope rop solo, I use an ascension and a micro traxion, or a rescucender and a micro traxion, if i have 2 strands. Cheers and thanks for the videos.
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comments!
@HoratioBannister
5 жыл бұрын
I have updated to a uAscend for my upper device for TR solo. Light and very nice! Much lighter than my recucender.
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
5 жыл бұрын
@@HoratioBannister Agreed 100% !
@HoratioBannister
5 жыл бұрын
Also, what are the modifications that you did to the Revo?
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
5 жыл бұрын
Are you a member of the Rope Solo Climbing group on FaceBook? You will find the link there. Please answer the questions to be accepted. Cheers!!
@Strett
5 жыл бұрын
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing What if people don't have facebook? Can you let us know what's modified or we'll be left guessing, which could be more dangerous than the free sharing of safety information. Thanks
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
5 жыл бұрын
@@Strett You got to do what you got to do... A Revo or modified Revo or other device will not keep you safe. YOU are the backbone of the system. It is important soloists regroup to learn by discussion and exchange. Not a good idea to learn Rope Solo from failure. www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116598492/revo-rope-solo-spring-modification-for-faster-lockup?fbclid=IwAR3DDAuIVUMVI3SIBcRMumgXfoEda3gif_bXFyKtOSFpUb8195C-M2YIWYI
@Strett
5 жыл бұрын
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I agree, never trust 1 device, always have backups. Thanks very much Yann :)
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
5 жыл бұрын
@@Strett Not sure I understand your answer... Sometimes one is enough: one harness, one 10mm rope, one big alive three, etc. Having a device and a backup will not keep you safe: YOU are the backbone of the system. Good luck!
@itrstt66
3 жыл бұрын
where can i buy a silent partner?
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
3 жыл бұрын
Ebay. The thing is not manufactured anymore...
@johnymorgan
2 жыл бұрын
Please explain what the modification is?
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
2 жыл бұрын
It is in the online course in detailed videos. Also can be found on Mountain Project on a forum discussion. It makes the Revo lock at slower speed. NOTE that the mod could make the device fail if the spring impedes the mechanism. blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/
@Brainstunt
4 жыл бұрын
Nice Video! Perhaps you have advice for a project i have. For my tree house i want to be able to secure the kids when climbing up and down the 8m ladder. Like in the tree climbing parks i want to have a rope goung all the way up and down in a loop, with a safety device on top and just a roll at the bottom. So you would connect your harness with a strap on that loop. I thought the revo would be a good choice, however, when it stops/brakes, it needs to be re-engaged if i see it correctly, and this cannot be done if it is fixed on top of the tree house... any idea?
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
The Revo is too dangerous for that type of use. It requires extreme care and expert knowledge. How old are your kids? Maybe plan a regular top rope? Too bad you need a belayer but it is MUCH safer!!
@Brainstunt
4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your advice! Meanwhile I already bought the Revo and it fits exactly my needs. Not finally installed, but i have tested it the way it will operate. It hangs at the top of the tree (dry conditions) and the rope is looped through it and through a roll at the bottom. So all you do before climbing the ladder, you connect your harness with the strap on the rope and climb - totally fool-proof, nobody has the Revo in his/her hands. While one strap goes up the other strap goes down, so there is no need of moving the loop back if the next person climbs up. This works because the Revo is symmetric and works in both directions. In case it catches a fall, it can be unlocked by pulling the other end of the rope - this i saw in another demo video. I saw your comment and Facebook image regarding the wear in the orange aluminium - thanks for that and good point! However, in my situation it will likely never lock, because the ladder is an easy climb. I have it just for the piece of mind ;-)
@graealex
2 жыл бұрын
I know it's quite a time since you wrote - but your situation needs - despite being quite the investment - an auto belay. There is no other device you can just place on the top to secure your kids without someone else.
@Brainstunt
2 жыл бұрын
@@graealex okay, I take the challenge 🤓 I have started with the tree house, it will be 15m instead 8m. And still, the revo will work like an auto belay, only it locks instead of slowing the fall (dynamic rope needed). Will show the whole build in my treehouse series: kzitem.info/news/bejne/2pWry3iNrHaDmHY
@kangdanlin
3 жыл бұрын
hello, what modification did you do to the Revo?
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
3 жыл бұрын
I modified it so it locks at slower speeds. It locks faster than an untouched Revo. Description of the mod is here: www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116598492/revo-rope-solo-spring-modification-for-faster-lockup . It is not so easy to do. I made a video where I explain in details, it is available when you buy the Lead Rope Solo online course here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/
@itrstt66
3 жыл бұрын
what is a modified revo??
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
3 жыл бұрын
A Wild Country Revo that is modified: www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116598492/revo-rope-solo-spring-modification-for-faster-lockup
@Schach1232
3 жыл бұрын
Love those videos! Thanks for sharing! What do you mean with : Revo "modified" /"non modified side?
@Schach1232
3 жыл бұрын
Sorry found your coment below! Thanks👌🏽
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
3 жыл бұрын
@@Schach1232 Cool! Thanks for the comment!
@Astilath
4 жыл бұрын
Hiya. Can you do a follow up on this with the damage shown? Im sure Wild Country would love to see the user feedback too. I use an inverted ATC guide set up for this before but it locks up hard on falls. Very tricky to lower on overhangs too. I do have a Revo for normal use. I like it a lot. Nice video. Thanks very much for going to the effort of showing this!
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
Rhys Morgan I posted some pictures of the damage on Facebook. Tell me if the link works for you: facebook.com/BlissClimbing/photos/a.1815976205140058/2993795430691457/?type=3 also the damage never got worse after a few more falls. Looks good to me!!!
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
Rhys Morgan I contacted Wild Country. They say no solo climbing should be done with the Revo. They did not comment on the damage. I still use my Revo and it still seems to work fine... You can look at a recent video I posted where I climb 6 pitches with the Revo.
@alessandrorosa
2 жыл бұрын
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I've just bought a new revo and modified it. I made some tests and seen some "damage" just as you. After some investigation I understood that the damage is done when - under load - you unlock the revo pulling on the spare rope. The steel cam exits and "grinds" on the edge of the stop-block on the orange wheel. I believe this is normal and I think that this type of unlocking should be avoided (or done more "gently").
@JonPoulson
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Great content.
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
5 жыл бұрын
You are welcome!!!
@sapineta1980
8 ай бұрын
Sorry, why do you have modified the Revo?
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
8 ай бұрын
To make it catch around 2 m/s. Not 4 m/s. I don’t say it is better or worse, but this is what I did!
@sapineta1980
8 ай бұрын
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing ooook! Thanks for all
@franciscogarrido4536
Жыл бұрын
Hola, mi mejor soloist que silente partner y revo y gracias
@namelastname2449
Жыл бұрын
I have watched this video like 20 times at least
@namelastname2449
Жыл бұрын
My observation is that the “less” (edited) horizontal you fall the longer the fall is with the SP.
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
Жыл бұрын
@@namelastname2449 That is interesting!! Do you think being horizontal results in a slower pull on the device? This should be the only possibility as the device is activated by speed…
@namelastname2449
Жыл бұрын
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing thanks for your reply. I will look into this but a frame by frame would be the best. A less intuitive mechanical analysis would say something like your potential energy up is equal to your kinetic energy plus your potential energy. Conservation of momentum also applies, zero on top, plus your I*w being I your inertia moment around the z axis, at bottom, (perpendicular to the screen) and w is your angular speed (that is the movement between being in hanging position to being in horizontal position). All that plus the losses inside the SP and the biners and etc.
@namelastname2449
Жыл бұрын
So if we want less speed, that means more angular momentum (the SP doesn’t see angular momentum). Less speed is more time to catch. I think we can leave it at something like that.
@namelastname2449
Жыл бұрын
So what I only see possible here, is that losses are higher in a system with more angular momentum, and that makes kinetic energy lower - and slower catch. But the eqs have a couple of ^2 factors so they are not linear, but I thinks that’s it.
@erinmcgowan7980
4 жыл бұрын
The revo is not meant for rope soloing.
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
Erin McGowan Thanks! I should have mentioned that!!
@tblends
3 жыл бұрын
No bueno, damage after 5 falls, scary!
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@FabioSpelta
5 жыл бұрын
These again are unfortunately top rope tests.
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
When you clip on lead above your waist, you get this situation. A device that you want to use to lead must be effective in this scenario! Have you seen the factor 2 test fall video on the Revo? (not mine but I can find the link...)
@slappy1031
4 жыл бұрын
And those were toprope falls
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
4 жыл бұрын
Slappy yess! OR lead if you fall right after clipping a QuickDraw ... Easy to compare devices in that type of fall. And less scary for me!! Did you see the test of the Revo in a fall factor 2 situation?
@DearthXalex
3 жыл бұрын
you should have been wearing your safety gear to show good practices.
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