Thank you very much Davide, such information is most valuable. It is difficult to find correct data. The information provided by you is best resource not only on KZitem. Watching your videos makes me feel like I'm in violin making school ... Thanks you ❤ !!!
@camilolutier6173
28 күн бұрын
Grazie Davide
@stevea3472
29 күн бұрын
Thank you for your kind and generous sharing. It is invaluable to me. You show a deep love for the perfection that is the violin concept and a deep respect and competence in the craft. Grazie, maestro.
@davidc3808
28 күн бұрын
Thank you Davide. What a great resource your channel is. I very much appreciate the time and effort you put into sharing your vast knowledge.
@angelicaveitch8526
24 күн бұрын
Such an inspiration!
@mandolunatic
19 күн бұрын
Maestro Sora. I truly cannot thank you enough for your generosity in making these videos. I believe I have watched them all….and many times over! Your excellent teaching makes me feel as if I am an apprentice in your shop! I am presently building a violin (with your help) ..but my goal is to build a cello. Can you please share the various gouges you use on a cello scroll? I studied the violin tools playlist….but I assume gouges for cello will be different. (?) Good tools are expensive, so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Again, many thanks for the gift of your precious time.
@DavideSora
18 күн бұрын
You can find all my gouges and chisels listed in this video: kzitem.info/news/bejne/kaptvGSasmigdX4 I do everything with these, including the cello scroll. A couple of flatter, wider gouges are needed to cut the curves of the larger turns and undercuts, so in addition to the ones for the violin head, I use the #5 x 23mm and the #3 x 35mm (listed for arching and thickness in the video), and for the final cut of the eye I use the #7 x 11mm (listed for the fluting channel in the video). Of course, the violin scroll ones should be moved to the positions where they fit the curves, always keeping in mind that with rare exceptions (such as the final cut of the eye) the curve of the gouge must always be flatter than the curve we want to create
@mandolunatic
18 күн бұрын
Thank you! I suspected trying to match the scroll outline to sweep curve charts would be the answer. Your point about gouge being slightly flatter makes perfect sense. I have made scrapers from bandsaw blade material using your patterns as well as very functional small gouges. Certainly less expensive, but lots of work!
@leventcolak1146
29 күн бұрын
Maestro, Thank You.
@jucamartins1201
29 күн бұрын
Grazie Davide. Sempre perfetto.
@michaelbelligoi6335
29 күн бұрын
Thank you ❤
@karzankarem3198
29 күн бұрын
❤❤❤100\100❤❤❤
@umitsn
17 күн бұрын
Can you also explain how to draw a mould with the help of geometry?
@DavideSora
17 күн бұрын
I don't have a video about the geometric system for drawing the form, books are much better for this kind of thing. I recommend you read this, it helped me a lot to understand something about ancient drawing methods: traitedelutherie.com/en/
@MikalaiNikitsin
6 күн бұрын
Hello, David. Do you ever use propolis in a violin?
@DavideSora
6 күн бұрын
Yes, I used it many years ago when some books on propolis varnish were in fashion, which claimed it was the resin used by Stradivari, which is now widely refuted. It gives the varnish a nice color, but it is too soft and thermoplastic for my taste. There will almost certainly be the problem of the varnish taking the imprints from the case fabrics in summer or hot climates. I have sometimes used it as a wood stain, especially for necks. It works well but I prefer chicory as a stain, it's not so expensive and has a better color for my taste.
@MikalaiNikitsin
6 күн бұрын
@@DavideSora Do you treat all body with chicory or only neck?
@DavideSora
5 күн бұрын
@@MikalaiNikitsin I use it only to give a bit of color to the neck, I don't really like putting colored substances directly on the wood as a ground color. However, it can also be used for the whole violin in a very diluted form and with all the precautions necessary for applying colorants on wood. If you don't keep the situation under control (read: do a lot of tests on scraps) the risk of irreversibly staining the wood or dulling its natural shine and chatoyancy of the flames is very high. It can be used either in water (making chicory coffee), or in ammonia, the color will be slightly different. After extracting the color and filtering, dilute with distilled water for application. Many low-color concentration coats will allow for greater control over the final result.
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