In prusa slicer, I've set my color change gcode to let me insert nuts, magnets or anything else into a print with the G1 and M0 commands. This little bit of gcode will present the current print as if it were finished for 3 minutes before pulling it back in to complete it. It's very basic, but it works. G1 X0 Y220 ;Present print for objects to be inserted M0 S180 ;Resume print after 3 minutes
@dev-debug
Жыл бұрын
Never thought of pausing a print to embed something into a part, very cool idea lol
@firehawkdelta
Жыл бұрын
PrusaSlicer actually supports doing this -- pause at a specific layer, and wait until you press the button/knob before continuing. I've used it quite a few times to insert magnets or other "vitamins" into a print partway through.
@johnpekkala6941
Жыл бұрын
G4 S180 do the trick also. G4 = Dwell, followed by P for miliseconds and S for seconds how long the machine should wait. The difference between M1 and M0 is that with M1 u can put a condition into the G code telling tha machine if it should care about the M1 or move on (Conditional stop) whilst with M0 the machine will always stop (unconditional stop) However from what I see this does not work on 3D printers, probably because M1 is mostly used with manual programming of CNC machines for test runs to avoid possible tool crashes on the first run and then when u seee the program runs properly u simply disable the condition and the machine will then ignore the M1 command and just continue. Like a debugging breakpoint in general programming. This is obviously not needed on 3D printers as there is no possibility for tool crashes like that and so only M0 is used here. M1 will maybee work as well (although it says deprecated on the Marlin page for M1) but u can I guess not put a stop condition in anywhere and so M1 and M0 will mean exactly the same to Marlin = unconditional stop.
@dylanlasky2389
Жыл бұрын
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR ENDER 3! The ender 3 saves firmware changes to the SD card, which includes PID tuning values. If you have multiple sd cards you need to have these changes on all cards, so I just stick with 1 sd card. I had a hell of a time figuring out why my printer kept under extruding after repeatedly calibrating e-steps, and it was because I was swapping sd cards. Edit: this is for all I know only for the v2 and other models running the same board.
@markbooth3066
Жыл бұрын
I have multiple sd-cards, but I use git to version control the contents, to keep them all in sync. My process is quite simple... When I switch to a different card, I pull the changes from it's remote before adding new designs. After a successful print, I pop the card back into my PC, commit the changes and push the changes back to my remote, so it's up to date for the next time I need to switch cards. Not only does this mean I have a record of all of my prints, it also means I have a record of how all of my settings are changing, over time.
@dylanlasky2389
Жыл бұрын
@@markbooth3066 very interesting, if I ever need multiple sd cards I'll try this.
@PiefacePete46
Жыл бұрын
@Dylan Lasky : I read this and thought "I've never had that problem... what's he talking about!" Then I realised that I have only ever used the same SD card for my file transfers! 🥴 I don't think a lot of people are aware of this... thanks for the "heads up".
@markbooth3066
Жыл бұрын
I had the problem that the I only inserted the SD card that came with my printer into my printer twice (enough time to run the benchy) before it died, and I lost everything on it. As I hadn't even considered this as a risk, I hadn't backed up the card before doing anything with it. This made me rather more paranoid about my printer SD cards than I might otherwise be. *8')
@Jawst
Жыл бұрын
Do you use Cura slicer?! I've been swapping and using random memory cards for years with no issues!
@balls2bone
Жыл бұрын
"The number one ocomplaint I hear is that you guys don't have a Micro Center near you"... Well, a new Indianapolis store is still the wrong continent, lol!
@Julia________
Жыл бұрын
I'm in the right continent, but they don't sell to Canada :(
@balls2bone
Жыл бұрын
@@Julia________ I feel your pain. Since Brexit, it's easier to order things from China than bother with the EU. Shame really, so many EU companies went "do not ship to Britain" after Brexit. Has improved some, a lot of companies started shipping again, like Prusa!
@ilajoie3
Жыл бұрын
My only complaint is that I don't have flocks of cockatoos flying through the skies where I live
@problyaspunbearing2094
Жыл бұрын
@@ilajoie3 “hide yo lettuce hide yo wives”
@court2379
Жыл бұрын
I have one, one state over. I'm still not driving 475 miles (8hrs) to save $30 on a printer...
@stevewollschlager469
Жыл бұрын
Thank you, love your vids. I am a Machinist (30 years) and use g-code on a daily bases. It is great to understand a few of the basic codes to fine tune your printer. I used it to fine tune my filament change process. Thanks again.
@northtustinsteamworks5172
Жыл бұрын
Love the beep tip!! Added to my end G-code!
@MakersMuse
Жыл бұрын
Super handy for that!
@farmhousefilms999
9 ай бұрын
Exceptional video, I like how you split the screen as you entered the G-code.
@iownyounoobs
Жыл бұрын
I found this G-code online but its really helpful for auto bed leveling ( I was having an issue where the nozzle would ooze during the probing and cause the prints to not lay down a consistent first layer) M140 S80.0 ; Set Heat Bed temperature M190 S80.0 ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature M104 S160; start warming extruder to 160 G28 ; Home all axes G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch) G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder M104 S245.0 ; Set Extruder temperature G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position M109 S245.0 ; Wait for Extruder temperature I print using PETG so 160c is warm enough to not ooze but also doesn't take too long to heat up the rest of the way. As long as you set up the Z offset with a fully heated nozzle, the probing can start as soon as the bed is up to temp. It also heats up the rest of the way in the starting position so as soon as it get there, it lays down the purge line (any oozing during the heat up wont cause any issues) Made my ender 3 into a start it and forget it type of machine!
@ScottLahteine
Жыл бұрын
Good introduction! In terms of Marlin development I always try to emphasize the philosophy of keeping the firmware "dumb" so it will be obedient to our commands and not try to do anything too creative. The real smarts are behind the scenes and deal with the things we don't want to worry about: decidng how best to carry out movement commands efficiently, following the contours of the mesh, keeping temperatures stabilized, and so on. Let the slicers and other G-code generators do the truly creative stuff.
@shanematthews1985
Жыл бұрын
So I spent £670 on a dumb gluegun lol
@Flumphinator
Жыл бұрын
It’s not a very fast glue gun either.
@HomeBrewedVapesReviews
Жыл бұрын
G code is something I look at everyday at work with my Mazak's, Chiron's, Okuma's, SNK's, etc. But, when I started 3D printing, some of these codes threw me off a little. It's been a great love hate relationship, but the same reason I love my job is the same reason I love printing. Keeps my brain busy and learning something new everyday. Thank you for your channel, and everything you offer the community.
@spagamoto
Жыл бұрын
Knowing a few lines of gcode is super helpful to make the machine do non-printer things too... for example, I needed to clean some small parts so I put them in a small container of cleaning solution on the printer's bed, then wrote a bit of code to heat up the bed and shake it around for a couple hours. Instant agitating hot plate. I also have my printer play a distinctive tone just after it completes waiting for heater temperatures, so I'm warned before it starts moving (I have a bad habit of sticking my fingers in there).
@Kalvinjj
Жыл бұрын
Same, I set a beep after the bed leveling (I do a 4x4 grid) is done, so I can clean up the filament purge if it wanders into the print area, and 3 beeps at the end to signal it's done.
@hockeyguy820
Жыл бұрын
I like your heat/agitation cleaning idea. Another one I thought of is to use the heated bed to precisely warm up a smartphone before attempting to remove the screen, which is glued in. I also used the heated bed to accurately determine the minimum temperature difference that would keep my Kontax low temperature Stirling engine running.
@balls2bone
Жыл бұрын
I do an M300 & M0 after heating but before homing. I have an annoying habit of leaving an empty plate of food, a tool or just junk on bed of my printers (all on Octoprint).
@caraeriu
Жыл бұрын
I used it to heat up chocolate to melt and then reduce to the exact temp needed for tempering. 3d print a mold, vacuum form the 3d print and then make chocolate bars, chocolate coins, or chocolate Grogu. LOL
@marioferreri4352
Жыл бұрын
How do you loop the commands to move it back and forth?
@zdenekvalek1538
Жыл бұрын
I think you have missed the pause/unpause commands M600/M601. Useful for inserting stuf in 3D prints or for manually changing filament. One problem with this command (at least on smooothie) is that it turns off heating, which is especially bad for bed heating mid print.
@PiefacePete46
Жыл бұрын
Angus... a little "Whoopsy" I think. At 7:25 your mouth said "X 100" but your hand said "Z 100". I think your hand got it right. 😉 Another great video, thanks. Thinking back to the 1980's (That's something I can do that you can't.) I used to get a real kick out of successfully making my BBC Micro perform something that I had coded directly in machine language, rather than BBC Basic. I have found that making something happen as I predicted, using G-Code, can give me similar "warm fuzzies". Keep them coming. 👍
@MakersMuse
Жыл бұрын
Heh yep mean Z 100! Making code do what you want is definitely rewarding.
@licensetodrive9930
Жыл бұрын
The only G-code command that caught my attention over the years is M600, filament change, for simple but very effective multi-filament/colour prints. I discovered that PETG & TPU can stick together in these multi-filament prints, but still haven't yet figured out any designs which could benefit from being part TPU & part PETG.
@timothymack7435
Жыл бұрын
Vibration dampening?
@licensetodrive9930
Жыл бұрын
@@timothymack7435 Yes that's a good one, like feet for a printer you could have the first layers in PETG with holes for screw mounts, with the rest in TPU for the actual feet part for dampening.
@janstoefer9144
6 ай бұрын
Printing a seal / gasket onto the rim of a case.
@Greg-jw2dp
Жыл бұрын
I'm a machinist and have been using g code for my entire life. Since getting into 3d printing, I've been wondering why printers don't utilize G2 and G3 arc commands. You could make a circle with one line of code instead of hundreds. My longest programs machining is about 200k of code. A simple 3d print of a toy was a few million. All because it only programs in linear commands. (A, J and, I command would be needed though). There are so many parameters that aren't being used. Anna what about, macros? Would a printer read it? Or the ability to pull up separate programs and run them within other programs. We should get together and blow the lid off printing. Right now it's so so basic.
@onlooker251
Жыл бұрын
Great video. Really useful info on G-code. Thanks. 🇬🇧
@finnyzmeobmw
Жыл бұрын
This is good to know Angus, appreciate the videos.
@KyberNexus42
Жыл бұрын
Pretty sure you can actually drain the battery if your laptop while connected to a printer via usb cable. I was helping my friend set up his Ender 3 Pro, (context: his laptop battery size/capacity is at or just about at the legal limit for here in the USA, and it’s in pretty good health), and in just about two hours it nearly completely drained his battery from about 90% to about 10%. We had Cura open & connected to the printer and his laptop was plugged into the Ender 3 Pro for most of the time, plus the ender was plugged into the wall (the laptop was running off battery power).
@TheJoschi8
Жыл бұрын
I'd recommend turning the power on while connecting to your printer. My Ender 3 has custom firmware installed, so my problems might not happen on your 3d Ender 3, but when I give it USB power and later turn on the Printer, all axies move at twice the configured speed and violently jam into the frame/buildplate (I actually lost a nozzle to this) I just learned to always turn on the power before connecting my PC or Raspberry Pi
@palomin3d
Жыл бұрын
Really nice and very well explained, thanks
@georgeinthejungle6095
Жыл бұрын
As a CNC programmer with 22 years of experience i can tell you its easy to get used to it. When i look at the G code i dont even see the code anymore.All I see is blonde, brunette, red-head. Hey, you uh… want a drink?
@thesqueeeps
Жыл бұрын
Seeing microcenter sponsorships always reminds me how damn lucky I am to have two of them pretty close to me (I’m in nyc) I always recommend the inland filament both the PLA and PETG+ (the only ones I’ve used so far) have given me 0 issues and print amazingly
@MibaCallabus
Жыл бұрын
Cool video 😊 At my makerspace, the printers (Enders) are set via Gcode to play their namesakes after print completion, things like Goldeneye and Mr. Bluesky... it's really wacky.
@peter.stimpel
Жыл бұрын
My dear Prusa, don't be worried about Angus calling you a dumb computer controlled hotglue gun. I love you anyways ...
@John-NeverStopLearning
Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video
@nathanbryans5744
Жыл бұрын
Angus must be part google algorithm because I was just looking at this stuff yesterday. 😂 Keep up the great content!
@nazgullinux6601
11 ай бұрын
I find for dealing with extruder heating, I will have the bed and extruder start heating without waiting as soon as the print code is initialized. I have the extruder temp set to 10 below the material melting point and then once its done all of it's homing and prep, it will then get a new command to continue heating to the proper temp and go on its merry way printing. This stops pre-print nozzle oozing.
@nathankora
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this awesome video.
@cordwhiteker97
Жыл бұрын
I believe there is a command to power off machine. Useful at the end of a program with a long wait code for cooldown and then shut down if you won't be around when a print finishes
@birdmun
Жыл бұрын
I was surprised no mention of pronterface and G0. Might want to warn people before they go experimenting with that one. G0 is rapid aka move as fast as the firmware will let you. G1 is move at the feed speed, typically 60mm/s or so. As was mentioned G and M codes are not wholly universal, however, the bog standard codes won't likely differ printer to printer.
@klikkolee
Жыл бұрын
I like using M104 and M140 at the start of gcode so that it can home while heating, and then using M109 and M190 with the same setpoints before the first use of the extruder (purge and swipe) in case it wasn't done yet. Currently, homing is all that happens between start heat and wait-for-heat, so there's usually still a wait, but it's at least less than only using wait-for-heat instructions.
@MechMK1
Жыл бұрын
If a baud rate doesn't work, always go lower. Baud just defines the "signals per second". You can go too fast, but you can't go too slow.
@louiskatzclay
Ай бұрын
Thanks, already new some of this but it filled in some holes
@tsewja
Жыл бұрын
that's my store I cant wait for July going to get a 3d printer the first day its open.
@peterdamico336
Жыл бұрын
Have you ever considered going from STL to a full metal casting? Seems like something you would like
@firehawkdelta
Жыл бұрын
Dunno about Angus, but there are people who do this. Print a "positive" in PLA, form a mold around it, then pour in the liquid metal. The PLA gets burned out, if you've done everything right. It's basically "lost wax" casting for 3D-printable materials.
@peterdamico336
Жыл бұрын
@@firehawkdelta yeah! Iv seen people do it with plaster and resin printers too. I just wasn’t sure if he’s thought about doing it.
@RobertEchten
Жыл бұрын
I was just starting to look into the M300 command for a custom 'Print is done' tone, so I'm by no means an expert, but could it be the S parameter requires higher values to be able to be heard (and maybe internally it defaults to some value if the value supplied is lower than the frequency us humans can hear)? So instead of M300 S200 you would use M300 S2000 or something? (Haven't tried it myself yet)
@jeremylaidman6525
Жыл бұрын
The number after S is the frequency in Hertz. 440Hz is middle C. Human hearing is roughly in the range 20Hz to 20000Hz. The stock (modified Marlin) firmware on (some) Ender printers apparently overrides the frequency so all M300 sequences play at the same frequency. If you install the full-featured Marlin (eg compile your own) your Ender can play different frequencies.
@RobertEchten
Жыл бұрын
@@jeremylaidman6525 THank you for that clarification. Something new learned every day ;-)
@guykovacs9334
Жыл бұрын
M and G code acceptance in base on what tools and pin outputs are available on the mainboard and programmed in the firmware, not every code in the language will work.
@lachlanwebb5171
Жыл бұрын
Thanks, have another beer.
@MakersMuse
Жыл бұрын
haha! Thanks mate, I will :)
@sdutango
Жыл бұрын
Awesome video
@broderp
Жыл бұрын
No link for the software?
@MrGTAmodsgerman
Жыл бұрын
Why don't they beep in general. Didn't know they can do that. Why don't slicers come directly with an easy option for that to enable beeping like for temperature reached or print is finished? Kinda blows my mind how this potential isn't used.
@jamesbrewer3020
Жыл бұрын
thanks
@theycallme_nightmaster
Жыл бұрын
I don't think GCode is actually a "programming language" (in the layman sense of the term) as it doesn't have if (branching) statements as far as I know, so it's not Turing complete. Its more like a DSL (Domain Specific Language). *Looks like there ARE some GCode implementations that have branching and are technically Turing complete, but standard GCode is not
@damc7456
Жыл бұрын
After my printer (S1 w/ PEI) cools down, the parts are loose and just need to be slid off the build plate. It would be cool to see someone write up gcode that wipes the cooled build plate with the cooled extruder, heats back up, and starts a fresh print. Or, wipe then set up OctoPrint to move on to the next gcode file, which also wipes the plate when it's done, etc. Would be an easy way to set up the poor man's CR-30. This comment could revolutionize print farming. You're welcome. 🤑🧐👍
@hydrolink5297
Жыл бұрын
Now this is off topic, but i recently had changed my nozzle. The first print with the new one had something like scars on each layer, but in the form of long blobs. I am still a begginer, so I was not sure what could cause that. I was sure it was the gcode. To check that, i tried to read the commands, but it was too confusing for me. Since the blobs were quite tall (about 3-4 mm), while it was printing, I checked if the lead screw suddenly turned too much. The printer put down it's blob, but no sudden movements from the lead screw. A bit more fidling later, i found that.... my nozzle was loose? The blobs on each layer were so regular, that, atleast i thought, it couldn't be a mechanical fault, but yet it was. I can't remember the last time i was this scared lol. Btw, the printer is a stock Anycubic Kobra. It has been very reliable since!
@flightofapaullo72
Жыл бұрын
Great video! Question: Have a Neptune 3 Pro. Would you happen to know the best settings for petg? I'm using the elegoo slicer and for the life me, I can't get it to print right. Noob here. No problem with pla.
@lindonwatson5402
Жыл бұрын
sweet!
@bruceanderson7762
Жыл бұрын
Is a G-85 command a circle?
@SilkyBadger
20 күн бұрын
No M600?
@KieranShort
Жыл бұрын
Micro centre in Australia?
@MakersMuse
Жыл бұрын
not yet
@themaskedcrusader
Жыл бұрын
I've got to figure out how to change the pitch of the beep so I can have my printer play "For He's a Jolly Good Fellow" when my prints are done
@finlay460
Жыл бұрын
Ah yes the g code, Andrew Tate's favourite programming language 😂 in all seriousness very good video
@acdctrain
Жыл бұрын
Someone please write a G-code script to make the printer play Jingle Bells.
@dingdongdaddy589
Жыл бұрын
But but but, my printer has the LIDARS!!?
@TDOBrandano
Жыл бұрын
When you start to get into the M commands you should specify what Gcode dialect you are using. M302 will work with Marlin, but might mean something completely different on another firmware, or for a laser engraver, or a CNC mill.
@iFlyGood
11 ай бұрын
big facts man
@Summer_Lilac
Жыл бұрын
So fun fact about the beeps. Its built into the firmware on the ender 3 that it just ignores the frequency. I compiled my own firmware from a community made one and it will totally change tones. I have it play the FFX fanfare at the end of prints.
@rpavlik1
Жыл бұрын
Note that g code is not universal, the specifics of the M codes in particular will differ between firmware projects, but I assume these are for Marlin which is the most popular. I think most of these but not all work with my old Sailfish-based printer (when piped through gpx, which is kind of like an early thing like klipper)
@henrymach
Жыл бұрын
This relative x absolute extrusion mode got me the first time I tried to calibrate e-steps. Fun times
@MakersMuse
Жыл бұрын
Yep! It's pretty tricky.
@patrolmaverick
Жыл бұрын
I think I'll have to add M300 to the end gcode in the slicer. It would be handy to have an audible indication that the print is done.
@6yjjk
Жыл бұрын
To heat both extruder and bed at the same time, but not proceed until both are up to temperature, use all four temperature commands: M104 S200 ; start heating the extruder and continue M140 S60 ; start heating the bed and continue M109 S200 ; wait for the extruder to reach temp M190 S60 ; wait for the bed to reach temp Much more efficient than waiting for one to heat and then the other.
@MakersMuse
Жыл бұрын
Yeah that's a nice way to do it! I've always wondered if some companies choose not to do it for power draw reasons, or if it's just unoptimized code.
@WindyLion
Жыл бұрын
You could maybe calculate the time taken to heat each element, then do the following: M190 S55; calculated intermediate bed value M104 S200; start heading extruder and continue M190 S60; finish heating bed M140 S200; finish heating extruder
@rpavlik1
Жыл бұрын
As long as your power supply has enough juice to do it and not trigger thermal runaway protection (which might trip if progress isn't being made fast enough), and if it won't trip a fuse or over current protection in your printer I have noticed that there are definitely better and worse patterns for heating up my old Replicator 2x: I think it heats one thing up part way, heats the other most of the way, then does "heat both the rest of the way"
@markbooth3066
Жыл бұрын
@@WindyLion That's pretty much what I do, and it's easy to see whether you need to tweak the intermediate set point by looking at the temperature graphs (one of the reasons I love my Octoprint).
@LaXi0rCZ
Жыл бұрын
@@WindyLion I have my start GCode in Klipper and I'm calculating 90 % of the bed temp for 60 °C and 99.6 % for 100 °C (and linearly between those temperatures - it is good enough). Just after I reach this temp, I start heating nozzle and the rest of the bed temp. This way both heaters are finished almost at the same time.
@AzaB2C
Жыл бұрын
Nice. Consider taking a leaf out of network Chuck's channel, end the titles with "RIGHT NOW!" 😊
@davidg5898
Жыл бұрын
4:15 You definitely want to prevent the USB from powering the printer. A tiny piece of electrical tape over the 5V line on the USB connector can block the power. Or you can cut a USB cable open and reconnect all of the wires except the 5V. If you have steady hands, another option is to desolder the 5V connection of the port on the printer's mainboard. It's a design flaw in some printer brands' USB implementation, which should be data only. There are multiple reasons why it's a bad idea -- you're basically giving 2 independent 5V power sources (which may even be at different grounds) to the printer's mainboard. Usually it'll be fine, but it could easily kill the printer mainboard (less likely, but it could even bite your PC's USB port or motherboard).
@wouldntyaliktono
Жыл бұрын
The joke at the beginning about ChatGPT is funny, but honestly it's not far from the realm of possibility. You can represent a 3d object as a sequence of geometric arguments (point clouds, or curves, etc). And GPT models (General Purpose Transformers) are really good at working with long sequences of values or tokens. So it's entirely possible for someone to train a vanilla GPT model on mesh data, and the corresponding slicer G Code. And what you'd end up with is something that could take an arbitrary mesh, and render a (hopefully) optimized sequence of G Code steps for any machine to use. In fact, I'd be _very_ surprised if the major printer manufacturers are thinking about this as they iterate on their slicer designs and optimizations.
@davedennis6042
Жыл бұрын
You will never receive the wealth this video is worth (at least to me).G-code is very simple. I never knew it was as old as it is. Now I am less afraid of the G-code. BTW I wish MicroCenter would put a store in Columbia Missouri.
@mikrom
Жыл бұрын
For sounds it depends on which buzzer is used. It can be active (making sound right after you connect power, no frequency control) or passive (you have to do some PWM to make it sound, therefore you can control frequency). Prusa uses passive one! So you can Google for some gcode melodies and put them in your end gcode. So printer can play an Imperial march if you want.
@cattythecat9161
Жыл бұрын
"My Imperator... the printing of the third death star is finished at last... " damdamdam dam da dam dam dadam* 🤣🤣
@OldCurmudgeon3DP
Жыл бұрын
Yeah, that power "back feed" from the PC USB is not generally a good thing. Best to use something to block the 5v pin on the USB cable.
@d3w4yn3
Жыл бұрын
This is very useful! I can make my printer look haunted while I'm at work, and see if my wife freaks out!!! Well played, good Sir, well played!!!
@KittenRaee
Жыл бұрын
You forgot one super useful command to know about: M0 - Unconditional stop It will pause execution of any further commands until input (encoder wheel or touchscreen) is pressed. it also has text display part like M117 so you can use it (especially with M300 beeper) to pause print when you need to insert some nuts or magnets that are meant to be fully encased
@blaircox1589
Жыл бұрын
Yup, no interest digging into that when we have slicers and visual tools for this. Great if your modding you old printer to do something it wasn't built for. But mucking with this manually just isn't necessary.
@darren990
Жыл бұрын
Angus your wrong mate ...my printer sits there and looks pretty lol
@MakersMuse
Жыл бұрын
Hey they can be dumb AND pretty!
@AkanoWire
Жыл бұрын
A cool thing to do is: put some electrical tape on the 5V on a usb cable (those to make your cable longer, dont know how they are called in english), then the mother board only gets on when the power supply is switched on o:
@3v1Bunny
Жыл бұрын
You hurt its feelings now .... I was playing this on speakers and now it refuses to power on :(
@joemieszczur9735
Жыл бұрын
My fav command is M810 to M819. the Macro slots. they let you combine common groups of commands in to one line. i do a lot of manual editting of my gcode out of the slicer. I just recently added M808 to my firmware, which is looping. since i dont have a CR-30 treadmill style printer, i use some ending gcode to slap the part off the bed with the X gantry and then restart the gcode. between M808 and M810 for my "reset extruder axis" and M811 for my "go in to rel positioning, move the z axis up one layer, and go back in to abs pos" i can print "forever" on my ender 3 pro. in conjunction with filament sensors it could run forever with minimal interaction. my next project is definitely going to be a filament splicer, so i can just load rolls of filament and print parts literally forever lol.
@marcfruchtman9473
Жыл бұрын
Probably the best G-code overview I have ever seen. ( I used to use G-code quite a lot with CNC, but I haven't really had to mess with it for 3D printing that much. Thanks for a great video.
@raymonschepers994
Жыл бұрын
Agree 100% I did also work with multiple CNC-machines and have picked up a lot of useful G-code and M-commands out of this video from Angus (again) 👍🏼
@evilgremlin
Жыл бұрын
Correction: that 0 in G28 is not needed (at least in Marlin) and G28 can be ignored because of that.
@TimsBitsnPieces
Жыл бұрын
That's no good to us Aussies.. Micro Center isn't in Australia.... hmmmm....
@PointBlankMetal
Жыл бұрын
Maybe one day?
@bigfoot650
Жыл бұрын
M500 and M503 are definitely codes to know, especially when configuring things like esteps
@HackMonkey
Жыл бұрын
M300 & M117 are super handy for debugging, and having the machine communicate what is up. I have several machines in the next room over from my work area. Each has different tune it plays at the end of a print to let me know which machine just finished. M600 for manual color changes is super handy for basic color swaps on just a couple layers. Sadly and frustratingly Bambu machines have no serial interface and no support for M300, M117, or M600.
@ScottHess
Жыл бұрын
I would have put M112 (emergency stop) somewhere near the top. Just tell the printer to wait until the extruder reaches volcanic temps? M112 all the way, as it won’t turn off the fan like power cycling will.
@MakersMuse
Жыл бұрын
Definitely one to know!
@ScottHess
Жыл бұрын
[I recently Klipperized a printer I'm salvaging. LOTS of emergency stops as I get my sea legs ...]
@dev-debug
Жыл бұрын
If you ever get a move out of range error when using Klipper it's normally because of absolute/realtive mode is wrong for X/Y/Z (G90 vs G91) or the extruder (M82 vs M83). It's a very common error people run into when writing macros for Klipper. To confuse matters even more some slicers let you set if gcode is generated in relative or absolute mode as well. Best way is to check what the current mode is, for example the variable printer.gcode_move.absolute_coordinates will be true if in absolute mode for X/Y/Z moves.
@JRT3D
6 ай бұрын
:) All great info - think I'll start sharing this video with people as a great lead in to what else your 3dprinter can be programed to possibly do without much efforts! Keep up the awesome content!
@diogoalmeidavisuals
Жыл бұрын
Any useful code for SLA?
@3v1Bunny
Жыл бұрын
I have a usb cable ( hand made) with data in place but the power wire cut. That way things don't power up...
@MakersMuse
Жыл бұрын
Interesting !
@engineer1692
Жыл бұрын
@@MakersMuse tape over the power pins on the cable works just as well without damaging it
@DIYGarage_SoCal
Жыл бұрын
Dude, thank you for sharing the PID tune code! My nozzle temps on octoprint have been all over the place. Now I know how to fix it!
@TheDplo
2 ай бұрын
I think i'll add the M300 and M117 to some maintenance / test scripts like changing filament / purging, basically to notify when finished, or when needing any manual intervention. Will search marlin doc if there is some command for "wait button press" instead of calling STEP_1_...gcode, STEP_2...gcode scripts. update: seen another comment, apparently there is an M0 command for that :)
@SirTools
Жыл бұрын
Like always, thanks so much Angus, another great video and very good info for the 3d printer users.
@RonanRTW
Жыл бұрын
I've got two custom gcodes loaded into start G-code in prusa for my Ender 3 S1 (just below G28). G28 ; home all axis M420 S1 ; ensures the 16 point mesh from the probe is actually used for the print M413 S0 ; prevent writing to the sd card after each layer which can potentially make blobs on your print
@faeranne
Жыл бұрын
WAAAAH! Microcenter in my city?! That's a sponsor spot worth watching! Woot!
@ki4dbk
Жыл бұрын
I came here on clickbait thinking this was some hip hop stuff's. Nah just kidding, but I do like rap though. Wait that's G-Unit....oh well. I like ML code myself...
@MAButh
Жыл бұрын
M109 S40 does not seem to work on my FLSUN Q5 printers. Is it logic? I want to use this at the end of the script to wait until the extruder has cooled down, before I turn the motors off, so the hotend will not touch my print and ruin it. Also, I got a suggestion from ChatGPT which also does not seem to work and is rather a while loop than a simple G-Code command: ; Wait until the extruder temperature has decreased to 40°C => NOT working while {EXTRUDER_TEMP > 40} do { So is this a problem with the Q5 printer or the flavor (Repetier in Cura) or is it simply not possible to send a -Code command that makes the machine wait until the temperature has been lowered? Thanks for any help!
@Laz_Arus
Жыл бұрын
When I print on my CR-10S I send some gcode that plays a little tune at the end. Unfortunately, it doesn't work on my CR-10S Pro. I can't recall where I got it from as it was a few years ago now: M300 S294 P200 ;D4: 294 M300 S588 P200 ;D5: 588 M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440 M300 S392 P200 ;G4: 392 M300 S784 P200 ;G5: 784 M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440 M300 S740 P200 ;F#5: 740 M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440 M300 S294 P200 ;D4: 294 M300 S588 P200 ;D5: 588 M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440 M300 S392 P200 ;G4: 392 M300 S784 P200 ;G5: 784 M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440 M300 S740 P200 ;F#5: 740 M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440 M300 S294 P200 ;D4: 294 M300 S588 P200 ;D5: 588 M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440 M300 S392 P200 ;G4: 392 M300 S784 P200 ;G5: 784 M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440 M300 S740 P200 ;F#5: 740 M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440
@parjf
Жыл бұрын
Glad Microcenter is still sponsoring you - makes me even more likely to just head to the nearby one in Long Island instead of buying elsewhere online. Also, this video was fun and now I will definitely mess with PID!
@ethzero
Жыл бұрын
Knowing that GCODE has its origins in the 1950s, we now need to make a punch card reader for 3D printers. PS: At a storage capacity of a whopping 80 byes it should only take a few 10s of thousands to load a model 😂
@petergamache5368
Жыл бұрын
Best use of M117: Use your slicer's layer change custom G-code to insert variables, e.g. "M117 Layer [layer_number]"
@armandoa2484
Жыл бұрын
Another great and informative video. About Micro Center, unfortunately the closest to me is 85 miles away or 136.7 kilometers. Might go there someday. Again thanks for the video!
@my3dprintedlife
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Angus, its always good to be able to insert custom G-Code to make prints better.
@timogross8191
Жыл бұрын
My printer does not "beep" I was hoping you explain how to "make it beep". Maybe in another video? You should have explained about feedrates and the difference between G00 and G01.
@TheExtremeElementz
Жыл бұрын
I found my Baud rate under “About this Printer” on my Ender 2 Pro. It is 115200 😁 I can’t wait to test this. Thank you!
@arielkalon
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Angus...because of you, and another video, ( kzitem.info/news/bejne/p56q16iXo2Njno4) I was able to instruct my dumb Ender 3 to beep at the start and end of a print! Normally I don't like gadgets that beep but this is helpful because my unit is in another room and I like to know when it is completed. Thanks a bunch!
@gd.ritter
7 ай бұрын
I watched another video that gave the advice to use your heated bed along with the box your filament came in as a dryer. They said cut the bottom side off the box, lay it over your filament to insulate it some, and heat the bed. So I want to write a simple GCode to set the bed temp, present the bed forward and raise the Z out of the way. Is there a way to do a timer where it'll sit for 4 hours and then go into cooldown on it's own? Maybe M85 but I can't find specifically what that command does for a shutdown sequence and don't know what the max value it'll accept is. I'm assuming too huge a number could crash it.
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