I've literally been binge watching people who have used elegoo mars and pretty much compiling as much info as possible to instill confidence in myself. I'm super nervous with printing and its comforting to know that lots of people have different experiences with failing and finding a solution to get those very nice prints. Thank you for this video, it helps a lot!
@markwhickman351
2 жыл бұрын
I have a Saturn and usually print without a raft. Not had any issues with suction cup effects. One thing to do with spent IPA is to keep it in a spare tub and give your part/plate a quick swish in that to get rid of the majority of the remaining liquid resin before the proper clean. It makes the main tank stay useable a lot longer.
@jankarlsson6261
2 жыл бұрын
Sir, today You got a new subscriber. No fooling around, no disturbing music, just the facts (incuding mishaps) Thank You!
@3DJapan
3 жыл бұрын
I never bother with a raft because the supports each have a mini raft on them. With enough supports it basically creates a large raft right where you need it. No wasted resin.
@fredflickinger643
3 жыл бұрын
Great patience! Thanks for the distillation!
@johnsweeney4257
3 жыл бұрын
After you touched the print with your bare fingers I felt the Earth spin off of it's axis and begin hurtling towards the Sun. HOW DARE YOU! Though I suppose your part will cure more quickly being that much closer to a substantial UV source.
@yagwaw
3 жыл бұрын
Yeah, almost as bad as crossing the beams.
@makerdave42
3 жыл бұрын
Surface finish has always been my complaint with 3D printers... that print looks really good. When you were first talking about all the troubles and cautions, I was thinking no way would I get that type. But then I saw the surface finish, I now not ruling it out. Thanks for sharing your early experiences.
@elijinn5044
2 жыл бұрын
The minimum layer size of a filament printer is dependent on the size of the nozzle, which is small but really noticeable. Resin printers can get detail as small as literally one pixel on a 2K to 4K screen. Resin printers are also faster and easier to set up, but much more work is required to finish the models after printing is done
@jeanpierrelabonte2868
Жыл бұрын
Bought used Elegoo 1. Stopped using it and bought elegoo2. Now with your clip I can use it like a professional. Thanks
@markclark7273
2 жыл бұрын
Hi James I have also been through the 3D printer guessing game to get printers to work as they should and a lot of thinking outside the box is needed. I had a lot of issues with the raft separating from the supports, the problem seemed to be that the support bases are resting on the raft and not penetrating it, like the top of the supports do into the part. This was cured by deleting the raft and using a modified support bottom, a 1mm thick cylinder works well, its actually a disc but Chitubox calls it a cylinder, these attach directly to the build plate and will overlap eachother to form a sort of raft. As there are often gaps between the cylinders, this reduces film tension and aids drainage between layers, I noe rarely have failures. I only use light supports for tiny parts and try to use medium mostly, although its a good idea to thicken them in the settings, especially really long ones. I have a much larger Kelant machine that will only work with medium or heavy supports, as the film is much bigger, the tearing forces are also much bigger and even medium supports sometimes fail. You might also try removing the supports before doing the final cure as softer supports are easier to remove and leave less damage on the surface of the part. You may have already discovered this but you have the lift settings completely wrong, Bottom Lift is the first lift from the bottom for every layer printed and 5mm is fine, it has to be enough for the film to separate and should be slow, I use 20mm/min, on the Kelant 12mm/min. Lift is also called Second Lift in some slicers and comes after bottom lift, 5mm is fine and speed can be 200mm/min as separation has already finished. If you listen to the Z motor during operation you can hear the lifts at different speeds and also hear the film tearing off the print. Retraction is coming back down again and any speed is fine, I use 200mm/min for this as well. You might also find that an increased exposure per layer will help film separation and you will need less final curing when finished, try an extra second per layer. A few other points, a level build plate is not critical as the first layer will take up any inconsistancies, the screens are often not flat so any levelness is a bit hit and miss. This is a good one, install an app called Spectroid on your phone, it analyses sound waves. Tap the film and see what frequency it produces, best separation results seem to be with a film producing around 250 - 350Hz, I have 2 of the Photon machines where the film comes out around 700 - 1000Hz and will not print reliably, putting a fizzy drink bottle top under the film during instalation gives a loose film that tightens up during final asembly and comes out around 300 Hz which will then print fine. There is a video on KZitem covering this, its also really good fun to do and baffles onlookers. I hope these points will be useful. I recently became addicted to yours and Quinn's videos and look forward to new posts, they have turned me from a turner by eye to one who now uses dial gauges and micrometers and actually produces parts to exact size. I am a model supplier in the UK so I have a mini mill, mini lathe, a 1930s small lathe, 1 filament printer and 3 resin ones. Mark
@mjolnirforsworn
3 жыл бұрын
I JUST bought a Saturn two weeks ago! So excited to know i made a good choice. It was so hard to find.
@КонстантинКучер-щ5м
3 жыл бұрын
Is its table fits to washing station?
@jeffbrewster4024
Жыл бұрын
Haven't pulled the trigger on a printer yet. Glad I found this video, likely saved me from throwing my soon to be first printer out the window
@jhawker2895
3 жыл бұрын
Nicely presented. I look forward to more on your adventure into resin printing.
@jeffjefferson2676
3 жыл бұрын
This is the way to go! Having complex parts that can be used in machinery. If you want to make it into something that is steel. You want to have a kiln that can do up to 1300C, and a furnace that can go as high is 1800C. Vacuum investment casting. Really cool! Greetings, Jeff
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
I've been looking at metal 3D printing. The electric furnace I have is only viable to about 1100C max, though, so the sintering process is a little hot for that.
@Mark_Walsh
2 жыл бұрын
Just started resin printing and just bought these exact models. Hopefully, my learning curve will be much faster thanks to this video. Superb tutorial with great common-sense advice on the way. Many, many thanks.
@bubba6647
3 жыл бұрын
By far the best video I have seen on resin printers and I have seen many. I love that curing station.
@Culturedropout
3 жыл бұрын
I've had an Elegoo Mars 2 for about six months now, and haven't really had that much trouble with adhesion to the FEP. I found a tip to use a little bit of RAIN-X rubbed into the bottom of the vat, and that seems to work very well. Also, roughening the built plate somewhat more using fine sandpaper helps a lot with adhesion. I've used a number of different kinds of resin, including the "ABS-like". I've never explicitly added a raft like that; I just have it add supports, or add them manually, and it creates a small "foot" of the shape specified in the "raft" area for _each_ support. They have a slight wedge shape around the edge so you can get the pallet knife under it, and a flat top with the support coming out of it. I don't think I've seen it done the way you did. Maybe that's the reason you ended up with a "suction cup"?
@TimeWasted8675309
3 жыл бұрын
Those countersunk screw holes ! So pretty
@memomakes9453
3 жыл бұрын
Great video. Awesome presentation. Always look forward to the new vids.
@DAKOTANSHELBY
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips Jeff and walk thru of the SW settings. I just purchased a Elegoo Saturn and am preparing for my first trial.
@douglasmacomber2277
2 жыл бұрын
James this process ive never seen before. My brother is and engineer and he has mentioned stuff like this? No sure if same? But im very impressed with how you go about learning to adapt your way and what's suggested. What's next? I'm hooked!! Ty again James forr another lesson!!! Love your channel Dm Boston Massachusetts 🖐👍
@peterlaine3929
3 жыл бұрын
As we have come to expect, good information presented in a well organized manner. I cannot wait for you to sink your teeth into another project on the scale of the ELS. Thank you, and keep up the good work
@paullangenkamp
3 жыл бұрын
Appears to be a very honest presentation. Well done. Thanks.👍
@andreVE4BK
3 жыл бұрын
Great tip on the teflon!… Awaiting delivery tomorrow of the same two items 👍
@rsmythe9617
Жыл бұрын
Been doing FDM for a few years but new to resin. Want to watch several how-to videos as I understand there will be a learning curve. Really good video with lots of tips of things to watch out for. Oh, yes, it seems I need to get a curing station. Good thing I didn't just fire it up.
@minnow11
3 жыл бұрын
Supports take a bit of knowledge but once you understand them you can print something where if surface finish matter just print it so when you take the supports away there is blobs left rather than craters and wet sand them down with 400 gritt really fast for smooth finish. A bit of clear coat also keeps them in good shape for a long time if used outside.
@michaelpatton4012
2 жыл бұрын
Thank you, great video, you solved my adhesion issues.
@fishbone1834
3 жыл бұрын
I just got this printer,, my first 3d printer. Thanks for the video! I'm in the middle of the first print and before I started I treated the fep with silicone spray like you did. I can see the model and it looks great! Don't no if I would've had a failure without the silicone or not but why risk it. Thanks again!!
@Voidmonster
3 жыл бұрын
My favorite resins are the Siraya Tech resins, not only are they among the cheapest, they're fast, clean off very quickly and easily (in a wash & cure with IPA), and they're tough. I've got 3 printers, a Wanhao D7 that was my gateway drug, a Mars 2 Pro just like yours and a Saturn. I've never used the PTFE trick and haven't felt the need to try it with the Siraya Tech resins. The main failure point for me has been the temperature of the resin. Most manufacturers will list a range of temperatures and they're not kidding. My printers are in my garage, so I ended up running a space heater to get the resins up to temp (about 25C). Another problem I've run into is expired resins when buying closeout deals. Those can just fail in all sorts of baffling ways. One thing I notice about your print and support settings, when printing solid parts (which you definitely want to do for functional things, or at least use an infill), you'll definitely need more heavy-duty supports. Which you seem to be mostly doing, but that timing wheel looked probably a little heavy for the size of supports you used. A lot of advice for supports is geared to larger hollow prints or smaller ones. I did things in the reverse order and have started doing some FDM prints after about a year with resin and it's really made me appreciate resin printers more! They're very different beasts. FDM is more like working with a robot and SLA more like training an animal.
@DAKOTANSHELBY
2 жыл бұрын
I'm catching up on videos of yours I have missed. I also subscribe to Quinn's channel. I found your channel by Quinn's mention of Clough42. I bought a Eggeloo Saturn printer not too long ago and am teaching myself Fusion 360 and using this printer. Your channel content is extremely helpful and different than most hobby machinist channels. Love all your tooling also.
@OzDeaDMeaT
3 жыл бұрын
would love to see a video on your entire print process now that you have had some experience.
@rogertrett406
3 жыл бұрын
Excellent video. Answered a lot of my questions. Thanks
@JasonDoege
3 жыл бұрын
I would probably orient the part to make sure that supports attach on non-reference surfaces.
@deanharding8727
3 жыл бұрын
This was very informative, thank you so much James
@davidangelo8902
3 жыл бұрын
Very Good!!! This was helpful & informative. I agree with digus this is informative and well done!
@EcoMouseChannel
3 жыл бұрын
I have basically the same printer, different manufacturer. I'm only interested in functional parts. So I've gone down the rabbit hole of resin mixing to obtain desired output properties with great success, as have many others. I learned about the brand Siraya Tech, and I now exclusively use that. I mix two of their products called Blu and Tenacious with very good real world end results. A part that's hard, but not brittle. They have a newer line, (which would seem it is in fact a "blend" of those properties that I like in a functional resin) It's called Build, and it's main selling point is that it can hold a tapped thread. And those that have tried it seem to also be hooked on "Team Siraya Tech" But play around with mix ratios, and you'll find you can get a cured part that resembles nylon if you wanted something with quite a bit of give before failure.
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tips. I've been a little disappointed with the data published by the resin makers. They all publish slightly different info, and it's very difficult to compare. I am indeed interested in something like nylon and I have been experimenting quite a bit with printed threads.
@КонстантинКучер-щ5м
3 жыл бұрын
For best results, cut all your supports with sidecutters and remove "stumps" with razor blade and sandpaper. That way you avoid to get "craters" on surfaces. What kind surface finish that buildplate has? If its too good, scrath it with coarse sandpaper.
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
It looks to be abrasive blasted or etched. It's actually getting smoother as I scrape parts off of it with the metal scraper.
@DrFiero
3 жыл бұрын
In comparison to FDM, these come out almost like injection molded. Still rockin' my Ultimaker OG but keep trying to talk myself into one of these!
@bryansenulis7242
2 жыл бұрын
Great info...thanks....I learned alot
@juliusvalentinas
Жыл бұрын
What geometrical tolerances can be printed? If you print a bushing and a shaft how do they fit together?
@TheMastaRob
3 жыл бұрын
Not sure if you will see this comment so long after the video went up, but hopefully! At the end you discussed printing a timing belt pulley, I've been very interested in buying an Elegoo Mars and this is one of my main use cases. I need high speed, accurate pulleys for a CNC machine I'm making (powering a rack of DIY spindle motors), but all the Chinese GT2 pulleys absolutely suck. So do you think resin printed pulleys are viable? Smooth enough surface texture and accurate enough to spin without vibration, and not wear down the belts? Anyway, great video!
@dansupplee4930
3 жыл бұрын
If a person was to make this part on a 3d printer would he just make it flat or would he have to tip it like this? Is the resin part stronger?
@larrysmall3521
3 жыл бұрын
How does the print time compare with a filament printer?
@Futschikatores
3 жыл бұрын
Its already in the video: 2.5 s per 0.05 mm.
@jimsmith6284
3 жыл бұрын
Good info always enjoy your information videos.
@Frostsage
2 жыл бұрын
Rafts are literally the worst and are not worth using. Even with the proper ptfe lubrication on the film you will still run into warping when using rafts. Stick to standard bottom supports. To maintain the highest degree of accuracy you want a limited amount of material hardening per layer. Even with the perfect amount of lubricant application on the ptfe film you will still run in to warpage due to the mechanics of liquid suction due to the viscosity of the resin. FDM and FFF printers can benefit greatly from the use of a raft. SLA printers are hampered by such mechanics. If you attempted to build a rectangle as an example the entire length of the build plate you will run in to massive warpage at best or catastrophic failure at worse. If you want accuracy you have to print layers that do not have large areas of exposure. Printing a cube for instance, you will get much better results printing it as a shell verse a solid, and printing it at an angle to reduce large flat surfaces. I have been using SLA printers in the dental industry for quite some time now.
@gringomann1
3 жыл бұрын
Is this a good printer for a beginner?Or is the Anycubic mono better for beginner?
@fstirling3843
2 жыл бұрын
Great vid, possibly the best one I have seen from an engineering perspective. This is exactly why I bought one of these setups. It would be good to see how accurate the part was and how well it worked as intended as a functional part… was it strong enough?
@Clough42
2 жыл бұрын
Yes, both the phone holder and the encoder mount worked right off the printer, and I'm still using them today. I was worried about how the resin would hold up in the car over the summer, but it's still going strong.
@James-vq9nc
2 жыл бұрын
In addition to coating the build plate, you can, cure the resin as well by putting it in the cure station. This insures the best possible adhesion. Give that a bash...
@Clough42
2 жыл бұрын
Cure a layer of resin on the build plate? That sounds like a messy process. In the months since I treated the FEP, I haven't been buttering the plate first, and it's been working fine.
@perryr4796
3 жыл бұрын
Hi James, now that it's been a couple months I'm wondering if you have any update on the resin prints and printer. Have the printed parts held up in the car? Any significant durability issues with printed parts? Is the printer itself still working well? Thanks!
@dalesinclair869
3 жыл бұрын
I can't get my hands on WD-40 Dry Lubricant PTFE. What's a good alternative? I tried locally but there was nothing like it, Amazon had it but 2-3month delivery time frame, and then third party sellers it was either 30 quid, 11 pounds and 11 pound shipping. Is there an alternative to that lubricant used?
@mith5168
3 жыл бұрын
This was my first exposure to this type of additive printing, so thanks for a concise overview of your learning cure - warts and all. Is there a descriptor in the software that somehow relates the estimated volume of the raw resin to the desired part geometry? I assume any unused resin in the tray is discarded?
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
The software estimates the amount of resin required. You can filter the unused resin through a paint strainer back into the bottle.
@agapiosagapiou
3 жыл бұрын
You need to clean the lcd-fab junction to help the fep to lift and peel
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
Not sure I understand. The "lcd-fab junkction"?
@agapiosagapiou
3 жыл бұрын
@@Clough42 fep and Lcd must be very very clean. So the fep don't Sticks on the lcd. In order at the lift process to Easley peals of from the cured resin. If is Dirty, oily, finger oil it will stick on the lcd and then the force that needs to be Detach is very high.
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
@@agapiosagapiou okay, I cleaned both with glass cleaner and clean IPA, so they should be good.
@agapiosagapiou
3 жыл бұрын
@@Clough42 is a messy process! By the way nice video! I always enjoy you job!
@mr.b6034
3 жыл бұрын
Very interesting... I have had the creality equivalent for nearly 12 months now and haven't had a single print failure yet due to bed adhesion... I have had more issues trying to remove the print from the build plate.. 😂😂😂 I am still running all the default settings and the light support settings... the only settings that I have changed is the exposure settings to the manufacturers recommendations... I wonder if it is the type of resin you are using that is causing the failed prints? I have tried a few different brands and found monocure rapid to work the best for me... It also has near to no odour...
@markwhickman351
2 жыл бұрын
Have you tried magnetic plate covers?
@mr.b6034
2 жыл бұрын
@@markwhickman351 yes, I have a magnetic plate fitted to it now and makes it a lot easier to remove the prints... lol
@markwhickman351
2 жыл бұрын
@@mr.b6034 I keep thinking I ought to give one a try. I find the chiselling off of the prints requires me to re-level after nearly every run.
@SirHackaL0t.
3 жыл бұрын
Can you replace the sheet in the tub yourself? Also, why don’t elegoo coat the build plate before they ship the machine?
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
Yes, it comes with spare sheets. There are lots of variables. Maybe I'm doing something else wrong or my conditions are a little different. Or maybe something else changed that made it start working after I treated the sheet. Don't know, but I saw the tip, tried it , and had success.
@truknob
2 жыл бұрын
Great review THX, how has the resin hold up in application?
@Clough42
2 жыл бұрын
It'll depend on the application. The phone holder I showed in this video has been in my car for a year and a half, and it's still working great. Summers here hit 105F/40C, and winters hit 15F/-10C and I park outside. I recently printed a pattern for sand casting, and it held up well for a couple of ram-ups.
@truknob
2 жыл бұрын
@@Clough42 perfect answer, still wish you bought the larger machine?
@Clough42
2 жыл бұрын
@@truknob I would like a larger build area, though I think there's probably a point of diminishing returns with the force needed to release the FEP.
@truknob
2 жыл бұрын
@@Clough42 great point 💪🖖🏻
@TannerFrisby
3 жыл бұрын
Would you be open to trying other resins without the extra hassles (dry ptfe lube, "buttering up the platform")? I had the same issues (and solutions) that you are using when using Eleegoo resin, but not with others (such as anycubic).
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
Interesting. I'm just figuring things out. Any suggestions for appropriate resins for functional parts? Most everything I see is really brittle or weak.
@putzy16
3 жыл бұрын
I've had very good luck using using anycubic grey with 20% by weight siryatech tenacious mixed and have had no issues with large flat parts sticking to the FEP film. The anycubic grey on its own is hit or miss but with the addition of the siryatech I haven't had a problem with the additional benefit of being a bit more impact resistant.
@vhoward1122
3 жыл бұрын
I have also used Anycubic resin without issue.
@vhoward1122
3 жыл бұрын
And I use the original Elegoo Mars with no upgrades. About to go look for a mono lcd panel to fit it.
@waynepollard6879
3 жыл бұрын
Very good video ! Expensive ? Must do some investigation . Thank you ~>•
@wags9777
3 жыл бұрын
Engagement metrics, here you go
@blahorgaslisk7763
3 жыл бұрын
Raging for the algorithm! And now I want a resin printer, a filament printer, a router, a mill, a lathe and just about everything else you might have in a workshop. And I'm not going to buy any of that, yet...
@digus
3 жыл бұрын
No ads, no politics, no shameless self promotion, no bullshit- just straight technical geek out. I wish more channels would take a page from your book.
@__--JY-Moe--__
3 жыл бұрын
🐕🧚🌮🌮🍓🍓
@matiaswesley8464
3 жыл бұрын
You prolly dont care at all but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost the login password. I would love any help you can give me.
@matiaswesley8464
3 жыл бұрын
@Caiden Amos I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@matiaswesley8464
3 жыл бұрын
@Caiden Amos It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thanks so much you saved my ass !
@caidenamos4857
3 жыл бұрын
@Matias Wesley no problem :D
@robbystokoe5161
3 жыл бұрын
"How do you turn a bottle of this into parts like this?" *light* magic
@0spike0100
3 жыл бұрын
I use my resin printer mostly for minis, if you ever find yourself printing something more fragile i find leaving the part in hot water to soften up the connection points usually allows me to just rip off the supports without damaging the mini. Not sure if it impacts the dimensional accuracy at all though. Also if you find yourself of having a hard time getting rid of the stickiness after curing, underwater curing might help.
@frigzy3748
3 жыл бұрын
What an amazing time we are living in! 10 years ago I used to pay thousands dollars for SLA-printing of a prototype like that and it was a big deal.
@cwj138
2 жыл бұрын
This is a better resource than so much of what is out there, I have been somewhat blindly printing off literally hundreds of miniatures with reasonable success, watching other 3d printing channels on youtube for little bits of advice but you have given me a much better understanding of what is going on, thank you.
@franklinasonofgod
Жыл бұрын
Agreed👍🏾. Same here. Thanks for the vid😎
@jasonh3109
2 жыл бұрын
Awesome! You are so complete well versed to share your experiences. I’m brand new to 3d printing and looking to purchase my first printer. This helps a ton!!! Thanks James.
@Shreyam_io
3 жыл бұрын
I have watched numerous resin printing videos never knew about WD-40 Teflon being used for better peeling. Glad you had something great to add to the starter's guide...
@michalsterling
3 жыл бұрын
Just to clarify - in the video James says "PTFE - treated the bed with that" You need to treat the FEP film inside the vat with it and wipe the excess. That lower the unwanted adhesion to the FEP film on every layer after each exposure when bed is raised.
@TengizAdamashvili
3 жыл бұрын
I'll try regular wd-40, and buff it off with a tissue
@dsbarf
3 жыл бұрын
This is the most informative video on resin printing i found so far :P
@giomjava
3 жыл бұрын
agreed. Thank you!
@3DJapan
3 жыл бұрын
Instead of the WD40 you could try roughing up the build plate with a little sandpaper. Also increasing your initial exposure time.
@ryant651
2 жыл бұрын
Awesome clear and thorough presentation! This is compared to a previous vid I watched which left me with a bunch of questions. You've answered all of them! ELEGOO owes you more than just a free printer and cleaner! Thank You!
@dominicknepper2082
3 жыл бұрын
"Don't print the part flat, it will stick to the FEP sheet." "Print with a raft, it has a higher surface area that magically doesn't stick to the FEP sheet."
@bandedcat10
Жыл бұрын
There is ZERO need to "treat" your FEP sheet. I have no clue why that is the suggestion he went with. What he SHOULD have done is scuffed up the build plate as you ALWAYS should, then look up the recommended settings for whatever resin he's using because these settings are likely incorrect. I repeat, there is ZERO need to spray your FEP sheet with anything and there is ZERO need to "butter up the bottom" with a layer of resin. Why would you do that when it's about to be completely submerged in resin anyway? The air bubbles are not a concern, at all. There is no need for one large raft, you can set for each support to have its own raft. This uses much less resin and makes the part WAY easier to remove from the build plate. Medium/small supports are totally fine, heavy supports can be overkill. You want the LEAST amount of supports you can get away with because this means less resin used, less post-cleaning work, less possible surface marring from support removal. Wildly canting a part to the side can also be unnecessary. What you should be doing is tilting the part so it has the least amount of overhang and requires the least amount of support. The best thing to do is put your part in PrusaSlicer and use it's auto-support setting. PrusaSlicer is top tier, the absolute best you're gonna get. Once PrusaSlicer has done it's thing, you can add/subtract supports as you want, then export it and throw it into Chitubox and check supports again. One thing he's also not talking about (to be fair he doesn't need to with what he's printing in the video) is larger parts need drain holes. There is a tool in Chitbox to bore a hole in the walls of a part to allow resin to flow out during printing. ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES WHEN HANDLING PARTS. "Buh buh buh rage in comments, drive my metrics." You DO NOT screw around with safety. It is not a joke, it is not a "suggestion". You can get VERY hurt by resin. Resin left on the skin can absolutely cause chemical burns. When working with anything you ALWAYS err on the side of safety, "buh buh eco-resin whiners" aside. This entire video is someone who is brand new to resin printing trying to teach how to resin print. Do not follow the tips in this video, it's only good for seeing how the process works.
@David_Best
3 жыл бұрын
How long did it take to print that part?
@RNMSC
3 жыл бұрын
Print time is related to the cycle time per layer, and number of layers. That said I believe he commented that it takes about 4 hours for the encoder mount, which sounds about right from my experience with a much earlier printer. Looking at the slicer, it's indicating it will take 4 hours, 7 minutes 22 seconds. That's at about 23:30 or so. Note that if he ends up getting a Saturn, and he's able to put 4 or 8 of them on the bed to be printed in parallel, that will also take the same amount of time, as printing just one. Note that the cycle time involves the amount of UV exposure time, led off time, and time for pulling the print off the FEP, as well as moving the print back into place for the next layer. Once you tune the lift and reset speeds, the only thing that may change how long the print will take is adjusting the exposure time, which can be affected by various properties of the resin, including color, how 'hard' the resulting print is expected to be, and so on.
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
If I remember correctly, with .050mm layers and a 2.5s exposure, it prints about 17mm of Z height per hour, regardless of what's on the plate.
@RNMSC
3 жыл бұрын
@@Clough42 and as long as you are using the same exposure times, and the other settings, I would expect that to be the case, no matter which size of the printer you were using. Granted for some of the really large format printers there may be added jerk control for lifting and restoring the plate, but I don't think that's an issue for any of the Ellegoo printers yet. I could be wrong on that though. Great demo of the process and results. Thanks.
@diegodhc
3 жыл бұрын
Nice James, I do mechanical parts all the time , and I never had bounding issues, correct height , cure time and angle is the most important . I do have to compensate for interior diameter (0,3mm ) and exterior (0,2mm).I then mould the parts and cast them in different material depending of how tough I need it to be , and quantity.
@michaels3003
3 жыл бұрын
This is a GREAT video! Please, please make more like this one in the future. Some people make promises and then never deliver.
@mikebashford8198
3 жыл бұрын
How dimensionally accurate are these printers compared to filament?
@bertlagerstedt4484
3 жыл бұрын
I have printed very serviceable gears down to modulus 0.5 on the original elegoo Mars, which is ~0.05mm pixel size. Like he showed in the advanced settings, I found I had to reduce the outer dimensions by 0.025mm, or an average of half a pixel. Also in the advance settings, he used 4 step anti-aliasing, which helps to reduce the layer and pixel effects, giving smoother surfaces, which was nice for my gears as well. My 16 tooth gears are 8mm diameter, and have run thousands of cycles (ABS-like resin) driven by a brushless drill. So I would say they can be very dimensionally accurate. I printed almost all of my parts flat to the build plate to maximize accuracy in X and Y, with no raft, and few supports. My biggest problem with dimensional accuracy was in the Z axis. The original Mars had issues with column flex on the initial layers, which resulted in some compressed and angled printing of the initial 1 or 2mm of the prints. I agree with Clough42's looser fit when bed leveling. I often added a 2mm pedestal to small parts to alleviate that issue. I also learned to chamfer bottom edges to fight the 'elephant foot' effect on larger parts. For my part, I would have attempted to print this part flat to the build plate, with a handful of supports for the upper flat. [NOTE: The only printing problem I would experience with this type of print, is excess resin cured on the supported face, where resin fails to drain away during retraction, and is then cured by recurring light bleed. I know others solved this problem, but I never did. I wonder if the shorter exposure times of the monochrome LCDs would reduce this issue?] The advantage is slightly better dimensional accuracy, better squareness of parts - which is important for some prints, reduced resin usage - so prints are lest costly, and significantly shorter print times. Such large rafts consume a lot of expensive resin, and raising a part 5mm results in printing 100 layers before beginning to print the actual part. Tilting prints is a judgement call that improves with experience. VegOilGuy has a different method of improving bed adhesion by painting and curing resin on the whole build plate - which is interesting. He also has done numerous printing to lost wax casting, where much can be learned about getting from 3D prints to metal parts in small fine scale. MyfordBoy shows a good number of 3D printing to Sand Casting videos, for larger, but coarser parts. And Clough42 shows us how to use machining of parts to make our tools better. What a lovely world. Thanks James!
@lifewater989
Жыл бұрын
I cannot believe he’s not wearing fucking gloves. Wow
@mikebashford8198
3 жыл бұрын
You shouldn't have told me not to taste it to see if it's fresh. Until you said that, I had never considered what it might taste like. Now, I'm curious ...
@JohnJones-oy3md
3 жыл бұрын
It tastes painful.
@davidtheswedishtechguy
3 жыл бұрын
Awesome video😊 the I handle it with bare hands to🤷♂️ of course I'm causes, that said I've not noticed any reaction ether on my skin😊 then i live in the south of Sweden so I got my doze of shit 35 years ago when Chernobyl blew up😂
@atta30
2 жыл бұрын
I’m extremely impressed with the work put into these videos
@happyfarang
2 жыл бұрын
you don't have to spray WD40 on the fep film. You just need to level your printer correctly. Take the VAT off, place a printer paper on the screen. Loosen the screws on the print plate and lower the plate down to the paper. Tighten up the screws so the build plate is in level. Now comes the important part: lift up the build plate with the lowest step (0.01mm i think it is) 1 or 2 times until you can drag the paper out, still with a bit of resistance. In your video, you have it too loose. Then set the zero. If you set the zero too low (not lifting the build plate before setting zero) your build plate will press too hard on the fep film and you can many issues. Too loose and the bottom layer have a hard time to cure to the build plate. a magnetic build plate attachment is also strongly recemented. Makes getting the parts off the build plate much easier. Level your build plate often. This is the main cause of print failures. (been printing for many years with the mars and the saturn) Another note is the material. If you don't post process it with some paint it will continue to cure slowly over time and over cure and your parts will start to break easy. Spry it with something that block the UV light and your part will last longer. I print many jigs and other functional parts and often lazy to spray them... and i do pay the price in printing them again and again and more resin cost too... Don't be lazy like me. hehe
@Clough42
2 жыл бұрын
I've tried it with the bed level loose and also so tight the column flexes backward when printing the first layer. It made no difference for me.
@markanthonyking
2 жыл бұрын
I never use a raft, and I use medium support, with factory settings, no issues.
@2323Magick
2 жыл бұрын
What’s a raft?
@cavemaneca
3 жыл бұрын
Glad to see you were able to solve your first layer problems. I've used other resin printers and I myself own one of their first generation Mars printers and have never had that big of an issue. My best guess would be that it's their build plate. They've been experimenting with different finishes for the build plate on each of the newer models to fine tune ease of real with adequate hold strength, and this model just wasn't as good. As for the print angle, the primary thing you're looking for is the overall surface area exposed on any one layer. The area is directly proportional to the amount of pressure that will be holding your print to the FEP. This is the key to making sure you have enough support to prevent the upper overhanging sections to not break off. So keep in mind you will want to angle the part to overall minimize the maximum surface area of any given layer being printed.
@drew_30
2 жыл бұрын
I'm wanting to do my first print, a more cube object; approx 2-inch x 2-inch.. It's a test I'm doing behind the scenes, trying to get my employer to possibly go this route, versus their $5k MarkForge onyx printer.. My cube has a hollow, that fits electrical connectors, that my department then applies pins through, wires.. ultimately, to test for continuity in wire harnesses, we produce.. Circling back.. with that cubed "fixture block" in mind.., would you still angle the sucker 60 degrees, or feel comfortable to print these right-side up? Great info, Sir; very descriptive, very professional. Subbed. 💪
@Clough42
2 жыл бұрын
I think the challenges with printing flat are all about having too much surface area in contact with the FEP sheet at once, potentially leading to the part pulling off the support.
@drew_30
2 жыл бұрын
@@Clough42 I TOTALLY appreciate your reply.. I agree with what you're saying, yet, those 'rafts' do cover a descent area..?? So, between work and frustration, today is my third attempt at trying to print something.. I learn something new at every attempt. I got an 'island' off my FEP today, easily, after a cool KZitem video.. Two things I've picked up, and I'm trying to apply to my 3rd print are: 1. Applying a dab of silicone to a towel, and rubbing the FEP, then drying. and 2. Letting the build plate tea bag the resin a couple times before print (to allow some kind of familiarity) between the plate and resin, before a shot of exposure.. My fingers are crossed.. I feel less frustrated, and less anxiety at each attempt. Thanks again.
@mvadu
3 жыл бұрын
"Frankly it drives my engagement metrics" you couldn't be more frank.. I haven't bought a resin printer just because of the number of steps in the process and generic care needed.. But many times when i meet limitations of FDM printer i feel may be its time..
@jonnafry
3 жыл бұрын
Excellent video ... wish I'd known about that dry lube ... I too have an extensive raft collection.
@KJNSamurai
2 жыл бұрын
It is not necessary to “treat” fep sheet whatsoever.
@KJNSamurai
2 жыл бұрын
And curing right next to printer😂
@markwhickman351
2 жыл бұрын
Elegoo make an active carbon filter fan combo that you can add to the printers - they're pretty cheap and you just sit them in the printer whilst it's running (one charge will last a long run and it comes in a box of two).
@C64-Museum
3 жыл бұрын
Very Strange! I have the same printer and I don't have an adhesion problem. It is sometimes even sticking to good to the buildplatform when trying to get it of. And I just use standard settings and no teflon spray or something like that. There could be two reasons for your problems: I only used water washable resign till now with no problems at all. Maybe the ABS like IPA washable resin is part of the problem?! IMHO more likely reason could be your leveling with more spacing than recomended. I did my leveling exactly as descibed and as I said: No problems with bedadhesion at all! More space could result in less adhesion in the first layer if it is to thick to realy cure the resign contacting the bed. Maybe?! Please excuse my english - it is not my mother tongue! Let me know if you want me to get in contact to exchange information about the printer and settings.
@Clough42
3 жыл бұрын
I actually think my spacing is too close because when it descends for the first couple of layers, it hits the bed and flexes the column back slightly.
@C64-Museum
3 жыл бұрын
@@Clough42 But why is your bed adhesion so bad? That's not normal. Have you ever tried an other resin? Do you have a printfile which you cannot print? I could try to print it. There must be a reason for your problem. I have to use the metal spatchler to remove parts because the plastic one broke because bed adhesion was to good!
@Riverboat374
3 жыл бұрын
I'm interested in getting into resin printing. Got to say your guide is the best, most logical, sensible one I've seen yet. Thanks for the assistance!
@3DJapan
3 жыл бұрын
Make sure the part is dry after washing it before you cure.
@reddcube
3 жыл бұрын
What the process like filtering the resin when pouring it back in the bottle.
@sergioruiz1902
Ай бұрын
I've been watching your channel for a while without realizing you were into resin 3D printing. A couple of weeks ago, I saw your video on 3D printed casting molds, and after watching, I decided to switch to resin 3D printing because I wasn't satisfied with my FDM printer. That very night, I ordered an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra and the Mercury washing station-the best I could afford at the moment. Like you, I'm still figuring out how to make it all work, including which resins, orientations, and supports to use. Unfortunately, most of the information on KZitem and the internet focuses on miniatures, not mechanical parts, which is what I'm interested in. I appreciate the videos you've made and the ideas I've gotten from them. I hope that since you're into resin 3D printing too, you'll be making more videos about it and Fusion 360. Thanks for your content!
@thesawdustfactory
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the discussion. I'm curious about material cost of Resin vs FDM printing vs subtractive machining (assuming you can easily mill the part in question). Regards, R
@Andrew_Fernie
3 жыл бұрын
The part cost is shown in the slicer at 23:16
@thesawdustfactory
3 жыл бұрын
@@Andrew_Fernie ... thanks Andrew, missed the resin cost.
@Bobs1Models
3 жыл бұрын
thank goodnes for honesty I was the same as you when I first started resin printing it was a steep curve but I to got there in the end . The quality is amazing. Great video thanks
@richardsweet5068
3 жыл бұрын
I also have just acquired a resin printer, a Creality but the system is almost identical. The aim is printing 2 part patterns for sand casting, some success with brass so far though a very small part. The next move is to try ZA12 alloy. The intention is making parts for a model steam engine. I am at the same time learning Freecad. The learning curve is pretty steep but so far enjoyable.
@KingNast
3 жыл бұрын
I was one of the lucky 2000 that got into the Saturn preorder last year. (They sold out in about 7 minutes) I'm really impressed with it. I haven't had any failed prints other than bad supports. Just wish I had more time to play with it. Learning Fusion 360 is what takes up a lot of time, but I'm loving it. Have fun!
@bassgojoe
3 жыл бұрын
Hello, yes, is this where I rage out? Thank you.
@PeteRondeau
3 жыл бұрын
Nice overview of the benefits and pitfalls.. I haven't played with a resin printer yet but that surface finish sure makes it tempting!
@saddle1940
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video. I was interested to see the cleanup process of the bed and getting the liquid back in the container cleanly. It seems to me to be an important part as the cost of the liquid is fairly high.
@moccaloto
3 жыл бұрын
Great video. Thanks for the honest, warts and all intro to resin printing
@peirossmallhomemachineshop5364
3 жыл бұрын
Outstanding video to assess the challenges of home workshop resin 3D printing. Once again James, I learned a lot. I'm sure that your learning curve will profit to everyone.
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