I improved my finger strength and possibly contact strength with these exercises from kung fu! I haven't done much training for climbing, so possibly anything would've worked as I'm nowhere near a plateau. However, going from +20kg when hangboarding to +26kg in 4 weeks with just three 5 minute sessions a week does sound like a lot to me. Kung fu has well over 1000 years of experience with conditioning the fingers, it's the inspiration for the now popular rice bucket exercises, so perhaps there are some more things we can learn as climbers?
Very curious to hear from anyone who knows more about training how such a low volume and load could be so effective at increasing my finger strength!
Timestamps:
0:00 Why I started with Olavo's Kung Fu Finger training
0:31 My results: from +20kg to +26kg in just 4 weeks
1:25 This training protocol for stronger fingers explained
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Cognitive psychologist and passionate rock climber. My goal for 2022 is to overcome some health issues and go from climbing 7a to climbing an 8a :)
My plan to reach 8a consists of a mental, tactical and and a physical phase. Every 2 weeks, I will evaluate my progress and check if I'm still adhering to my core values: health, virtue, resourcefulness, transparency, and growth. Progressing towards 8a must not be detrimental to my long-term health, or any of the other core values.
I will share the whole journey on KZitem! If you want to know every detail, go to AmirNickname.com to see the exact stats and schedule.
For information about falling safely while bouldering go to:
valcursus.nl
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