Rogan Art, an ancient textile art, with its origins in Persia, came to Kutch around 300 years ago. Traditionally, the craft was used to beautify bridal clothing of the regional tribes. Beautiful borders and floral patterns on ghagras, odhanis and bed spreads were painstakingly painted. However, in today’s times, more people have showed interest in wall pieces and ‘Rogan kaam’ has gained immense popularity.
Rogan is the technique of painting on fabric, crafted from a thick brightly coloured paint like substance made with castor seed oil. Castor is a local crop grown in Kachchh which artists used to originally source from local farmers. Artisans place a small amount of this paste into their palm and at room temperature, the paint is carefully twisted into motifs and patterns using a metal rod. This metal rod never comes in contact with the fabric. Afterwards the artisan folds the fabric, thereby printing its mirror image and also creating a symmetric design. In effect, it is a very basic form of printing but the designs are very intricate. Earlier, the designs used to be more rustic but over time this craft has evolved and become more stylized, intricate and fine.
Rogan is a form of textile painting which uses a rich, brightly coloured paint made from castor oil and natural colors. The term Rogan means ‘Oil-based’ in Persian and refers to the thick substance formed by heating and then casting castor oil in cold water. The making of the Rogan paste is done in the jungle where the artisans mix oil and natural color. After it is mixed with natural colours, the paste is drawn out into a fine ‘thread’ with a metal stylus or ‘Kalam’. The artisans then place a small amount of this paint paste into their palm and at body temperature, the paint is carefully twisted across the cloth into motifs and patterns using the ‘Kalam’. Next, the artisan folds the fabric thereby printing its mirror image. The finer details are then added thus completing the Rogan painting.
“The ‘Tree of Life’ design is the most famous design in Rogan painting. It is inspired by traditional Persian designs.”
CREDITS
RESEARCH TEAM
Dr. Bibhudutta Baral
(Project Head)
Manasa KH
Harsha Kulkarni
(Videography)
Ankit Yadav
(Video Editing)
National Institute Of Design (NID)
Bangalore
.
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Негізгі бет Unique Traditional Rogan Painting- Nirona, Gujarat
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