There are two kinds of expeditions: the all-out attack on a high mountain ending in complete success or complete failure, and the exploratory expedition where an unknown region is visited and convenient peaks climbed. The first type is most deeply ingrained in the imagination of the public, who are almost incapable of understanding the second where success or failure is far less easy to define. As with the 1955 expedition of the R.A.F. Mountaineering Association to Lahul, the R.A.F. team in 1961 did not do everything they intended. They did not climb K6, but at least contributed to human knowledge on this peak. But with two 22,000 feet and two 20,000 feet summits attained, a glacier system opened up, and a good map, they have no reason to be disappointed with their results.
The choice of the Hushe Valley which runs northward from the Shyok at Khapalu may seem strange, for many parties have been up it on their way to Masherbrum, but it happens to lie in a pocket between the better known and better surveyed areas of Haramosh, Baltoro and Siachen, which has been overlooked by previous expeditions. Moreover, in spite of its accessibility, only one party- from Harvard in 1957-had previously penetrated the South Chogolisa Glacier, while no climbing party has ever been to the Aling. With K6, Peak Baltistan, of 23,890 feet in the area, and probably many mountains of 21,000 to 22,000 feet, the 1961 party had enough reasons to explore Hushe.
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Негізгі бет Untrodden Karakorum · 1961 RAF Expedition
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