that tie line trick is GOLDEN! thank you for your wisdom and practical tips
@joewarren8442
3 жыл бұрын
Great video diddnt think I'll pick anything up but always the little things like how to keep cables/ looks separate👏👏
@joelglaser5657
3 жыл бұрын
Some good info, David. Of course every situation may be different, but when I'm setting up box truss for mounting lights, I use power stringers laid across the top. The pair of stringers that I built for lighting truss are about 27' long with a dual outlet box every 3'. This really makes it easy to power whatever lights I happen to mount on a run of truss. I usually lay the stringer on top of the box truss and secure it with tie line, ball bungies or velcro strips. Then put it up on the stands. Lights are mounted next, followed by DMX cables, which I try to lay in the box, as opposed to on the top. The idea being, to try and keep the DMX away from power as much as possible. I've never had an issue (that I know of) with interference, but it never hurts to come down on the safe side! LOL Another idea: when cutting tie line, use a lighter to melt the cut ends. this helps to keep the line from coming un-raveled. I also spin the hot end between my thumb and first finger to form a nicely shaped end. P.S - USE HEAVY GLOVES!! Don't burn your fingers!! Thanks for all the great videos and info that you share. Much appreciated!
@chrisk8208
3 жыл бұрын
The stringer is a good idea. I tend to use piggy back extension leads and just tap into them where needed but a stringer would be faster. As long as you don't overload the circuit with what could be up to 18 lamps, all is good. I use my lighter as a roller with the melted end of VB cord on a bit of timber or cardboard. If I'm cutting a lot of synthetic rope and or larger diameter, I use a hot knife. www.sydneyropesupplies.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20&products_id=492
@jayesmoker1140
3 жыл бұрын
Use bungee tie downs instead of rope, they don't tangle, anyone can tie them and add more cables in later plus they hold the cables tight whilst also offering manoeuvrability of cable/length.
@LearnStageLighting
3 жыл бұрын
I'm not a huge bungee-ball guy myself, but they are also a solid method, yes!
@alexc2234
Жыл бұрын
Building my first truss (13') with 5-7 lights on each side. The data is daisy chained. Not sure how to run the power. I feel like I need two multi-outlets (one for each side), then extension cords and then each of those will end up plugged into multi-outlet boxes near both tripods. Seems like a fire hazard. Any advise on how to wire this correctly for a truss hanging 10' in the air with power on the ground? Thanks
@keilonedwards3122
7 ай бұрын
Thank you so much bro 7:22
@wesgarland
3 жыл бұрын
Great talk. There’s not a lot of info out there about best practices for wire dressing on pipe or truss. What’s your preference on tie line knots? Do you do anything with the ends after you cut them?
@chrisk8208
3 жыл бұрын
I attach the rope to the bar with a cow hitch. See link below. Then to tie it to the cables, just use exactly the same routine you use to tie your shoe laces. It's the same thing for hanging cloths with eyelet holes in them only the cow hitch goes on the eyelet. I heat the end of synthetic tie VB cord and roll the heated end on a bit of timber or cardboard (using the lighter as my roller) to seal it. Warning hot plastic causes burns. www.animatedknots.com/cow-hitch-knot-loops-method I reckon it'll take you less than 10 seconds to work out how to tie that knot when you don't have access to the end of the bar. :)
@LearnStageLighting
3 жыл бұрын
I tie it like I tie my shoes - not fancy, and anyone else who runs into it can untie it! Tie line is cheap enough and decent tie line doesn't fray a ton, so I really don't worry about doing anything with the ends. At the production company where I used to work, we'd only have to replace tie line from fraying on cables that were probably 10+ years old, and at that point it's so dirty and nasty anyways that you might as well start over. (and that is in a production company - hard use, lots of really dirty floors, outdoors, and more!)
@wesgarland
3 жыл бұрын
@@LearnStageLighting Thank you! Just received my tie line, waiting for four more fixtures, then I will get up there and re-dress the wiring on our battens. They are a mess!
@joeborsch5137
3 жыл бұрын
Interesting to see all the replies to this. Gonna check out those other knots. I typically use the clove hitch since it holds up heavy cable like socapex to a pipe without issue.
@peteroneill4571
2 жыл бұрын
Great thankyou
@kenlapone7551
3 жыл бұрын
One of my lights builds up a concerning amount of static electricity. This light “resets”, forgets its dmx address, every few days. What’s the issue?
@chrisk8208
3 жыл бұрын
Hi. What make, what model and how old?
@kenlapone7551
3 жыл бұрын
@@chrisk8208 ADJ, Encore FR50Z latest software 1.07. Less than 3 years old
@chrisk8208
3 жыл бұрын
@@kenlapone7551 Just to rule out a simple explanation, check the unit isn't at the end of a long run of DMX. If it is, put a DMX terminator on it. From Page 8 of the user manual; "Special Note: Line Termination. When longer runs of cable are used, you may need to use a terminator on the last unit to avoid erratic behaviour. A terminator is a 110-120 ohm 1/4 watt resistor which is connected between pins 2 and 3 of a male XLR connector (DATA + and DATA -). This unit is inserted in the female XLR connector of the last unit in your daisy chain to terminate the line. Using a cable terminator (ADJ part number Z-DMX/T) will decrease the possibilities of erratic behavior." You can make your own terminators easily. Here is the link to your user manual. www.adj.com/encore-fr50z Page 10 says the following. "This mode can be used as a precaution mode, that in case the DMX signal is lost, the operating mode chosen in the setup is the running mode the fixture will go into when the DMX signal is lost." Check you don't have the unit set to go into some unwanted mode when DMX signal is lost. This should not affect DMX address so probably isn't the problem. Similarly, page 12. Check you don't have default running mode selected. I doubt you can leave this selected on as it's probably just a factory reset you engage manually and it resets and then turns off but worth checking. "Default Running Mode: This is a default running mode. When this mode is activated all modes will return to their default settings." If you're running in 3, 2-3 or 4 channel modes (see p 14) and you send a value greater than 120 to channels 3 or 4 (depending on the mode you're in), the unit will "default to unit setting". This should only affect your dim curve but the wording is ambiguous and may reset the entire fixture to "unit setting". See if you can get it to stuff up by running CH 3 or 4 (again depending on mode you've selected) up past 120 (past 47%). I personally think the most likely cause of your problems is a failure in the memory chip of the unit that remembers it's address and other settings. This could be a faulty chip if the unit uses non volatile memory but if it uses DRAM chips, the little battery that keeps it remembering stuff without external power might be on it's way out. Unfortunately the manufacturer says there are no user serviceable parts inside, warns of voiding your warranty and says to send it to an authorised repairer so they're not supplying any information on possible fixes you could do yourself. Sorry pal, that's all I can tell you. Best of luck.
@chrisk8208
3 жыл бұрын
Hi again. The build up of "static electricity" you mention is concerning. The unit has an earth (ground) and this means it can't build up static electricity, as any voltage "built up" will just drain to earth. What is "building up" may well be a harmful and if it gets worse, deadly amount of charge that by rights should be draining to earth. You may have a faulty earth connection in the unit. Check with a multimeter by setting to Ohms and making sure the earth pin of your power lead and the casing of the unit measure 1 ohm or less. You may have to scrape a little paint off the unit to get to a small section of exposed metal on the shell with your multimeter probe. Plug the units power cord into an RCD and check it's not tripping. If the resistance is over 1 ohm and or the RCD is tripping. Stop using the unit and have it serviced. Lighting is fun but isn't worth dying for. :) www.appliancetaggingservices.com.au/rcd-residual-current-device
@kenlapone7551
3 жыл бұрын
@@chrisk8208 thanks for the effort you put into your response! I will look into it
@michaelcoughlin8238
Жыл бұрын
I'm just learning about lighting but why wouldn't you use velcro for short term cable attachments and zip ties for long term? That's what I'm familiar with in the IT industry. Uh oh. You just said a no, no. If I were there in person I would have interrupted, you. You suggested wrapping power and data cables together? Again, from the IT industry, that is day one cable management "never, ever" do that. In fact, you are supposed to run them perpendicular to each other, if at all possible, at least when they cross. This helps with reducing interference and hum. I was taught this when we built a recording studio in college during a summer class. What makes it ok here?
@racedrummer1
3 жыл бұрын
You are worth your weight in Gold my friend. Thank you for that amazing and informative video!!!
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