I have had this exact issue with Vallejo primer! It's actually a relief that it's not just me.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
I was about to say, "I'm glad to hear it".. I mean, I'm not glad that you might have gotten something ruined, I'm glad to hear it's not just me (as well)
@worm1618
Жыл бұрын
Just varnish before applying your oils; it'll work just fine. No need to dispose of your rattle can primers.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
@@worm1618 Indeed, but I wanted this example to have as few steps as possible.
@Infernal_Puppet
Жыл бұрын
I have had the same problem with vallejo white primer in the airbrush.
@zethjin6730
Жыл бұрын
I recommend for the varnish before the oils a gloss varnish (i use ak gloss varnish) and before putting one the acrilys a matt varnish (here I also use ak ultra matt)
@harbl99
Жыл бұрын
"Face the storm. Obtain the rattle can." -- Modellers and painters, seeking heroism in an unheroic age. Also, a quick clean way to do yellow (our true holy grail).
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
🙌
@SpontaneousSquiggle
Жыл бұрын
Love the effect of the magenta. I always start with a hot pink when I'm painting lava, gives such a strong blast of colour to the oranges
@NewSquallor
Жыл бұрын
"Alex of 52 miniatures. Known by moms everywhere." new slogan. :D
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Hah! Love it
@bigweld6792
Жыл бұрын
I really like how the blue undercoat looks, gives a really stark look that stands out against the warm martian base though the magenta/pink undercoat makes them look more in place with their environment
@RottenJeeves
Жыл бұрын
Yellow on top of pink also makes a really fun gradient.
@Icyblade01
Жыл бұрын
your previous yellow space marine was incredible, so excited to see how these turn out!
@Wijkert
Жыл бұрын
I have done a similar test, undercoating yellow with several colors, and have found that I like the unique tone of orange-brown I get when undershading with Liquitex Deep Violet (PR122 + PV23RS), the most. Which is a purple, not really a violet. Compared to just magenta (PR122), it looks a little less cartoony, but also less boring that undercoating with a regular orange-brown like Mournfang Brown.
@andrewcannon4757
Жыл бұрын
I always look forward to your videos. I don't expect I'll recommend you to my mother, but I have to several friends, most of whom don't care about mini painting at all.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Andrew!
@dmereel
Жыл бұрын
The shot of you leaving home and lighting a cigarette was epic. Subscribed
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Welcome to the channel!
@devigod101
Жыл бұрын
The subtle difference between the shadows created are so great, almost as if it is the same company but in different enviroments
@johannagoss
Жыл бұрын
You are the most inspiring KZitemr! Thank you so much for your videos!
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thank you J! I appreciate it 👋
@SPQRKlio
Жыл бұрын
What a journey! 😄I do love yellow-gamboge, goldenrod, saffron, lemony, Turner-y, whatever I can get my hands on. I enjoyed seeing your techniques.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Great K, thank you 🙏
@garnermcculloch2778
Жыл бұрын
Bravo! That’s a brilliant recipe for yellow, and by extension pretty much every other lighter color combo.
@TheEnd
Жыл бұрын
Really liked the magenta underpainting. I've used pink in the past, but ill be using a deeper hue next time. Thanks for another helpful video Alex!
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks The End!
@tftf60
Жыл бұрын
I so love the way you always have a Story on your Videos.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks TFTF!
@thequestbro
Жыл бұрын
Bro I am drunk watching this video and god damn what a rollercoaster. This is cinema.
@marcopritoni7182
Жыл бұрын
A true storyteller
@doshutokeshi3877
2 ай бұрын
Games Workshop primer is a "Japandry primer" like Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo Mr. Hobby primer. These are the toughest and most resilient primers. Vallejo non aerosol primers are water based primer. Their rattlecan primer apparently aren't Japandry and I'm not sure about Army Painter. But for White and Grey, Tamiya is the best, Gunze is as well if you can get it. Gunze also makes a Black and Tamiya also makes a Pink primer as well.
@stevejennings2394
Жыл бұрын
Fantastic as always, thanks!
@tightning
Жыл бұрын
Videos like this where you highlight a failure and use it as a learning exercise, then inform us of the steps, are absolutely invaluable. Thanks for your time, amazing work as always!
@VladimirKharchenko
Жыл бұрын
Cool workflow, alternatively yellow can be just painted with cadmium yellow artist grade oil paint, it has the coverage never seen in model paint (with their cheapo pigments, this is the secret of why yellow is hard using citadel, vallejo, AK and etc.)
@markfrommontana
Жыл бұрын
Alex channels Clint Eastwood with his cheroot. Love it. Looks like I might have to brave a bit of snow myself today and for something as mundane as groceries rather than fun rattle cans. Model on!
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
The snow is back here again, again.
@Thameno
Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much, for the White Spray test for White Spirit. I try your way of painting with the oil washes underneath and your Test beware me in use of Vallejo White Spray Can, I always used so far! I take a lot out of this Video for Painting my Age of Darkness Box so far, thanks so much for your Videos! Btw. I prefer the Magenta underneath the Yellow, don't know why, it has a warm tone to the shadows, I like it most.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
I'm glad it was of help T!
@jeremiahembs5343
Жыл бұрын
Vallejo hobby spray isn't advertised a primer. It's just paint. It's very smooth so I do use it as a primer sometimes, but it's not as durable as a primer as the citadel stuff so it should be varnished before handling roughly or using any other chemicals on it. The sansodor chemical is pretty harsh though. There are other ways to thin oils that aren't as aggressive.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
I mean, there are different types of paint - not only “just paint”? White spirit or turpentine does not dissolve cured acrylic paint. So the Vallejo spray must be a solvent based paint, not an acrylic paint. This has nothing to do with if it’s durable or if it’s a primer or not. There are solvent based primers for example; they would also dissolve in white spirit… I’m curious what you mean about sansodour being a harsh chemical? What do you use for oil paint that is not as “harsh”?
@jeremiahembs5343
Жыл бұрын
@@52Miniatures Perhaps I should explain a bit more. I use vallejo spray a lot as a primer, but it needs a varnish. For example I'm working on a bust right now that was primed with Vallejo Model spray. I used the vallejo product because I knew it wouldn't clog the fine texture of the clothing. I didn't varnish and while I was doing the first washes of color with my airbrush I tried to lift a mistake with water, but even gentle rubbing removed some of the paint. I touched it up with more spray and then I brush varnished the model using a matte acrylic varnish from Coat D'Arms and it became durable. Vallejo's spray was designed for smooth application for additional layers of color after the priming is already done, not as a durable topcoat and not as a primer. It's just paint. Actual primers have hardeners and strong binders like glue and they are made from absorbent toothy fillers like calcium chalk that take additional layers of paint well and most importantly real primer has chemicals in it which actually etch the surface of the model for better adhesion. My father taught me that for a model to properly take the first layer of paint it should be sanded with a smooth sandpaper and he would make me do it though its a tedious a process to sand plastic. But we can avoid this in miniature painting with specially formulated primers that can etch the surface or that have especially strong binders and a toothy texture. The special formulation is why a priming layer is so hard to remove when stripping the paint off an old mini. Sansodor is a refined petrol chemical. It's the same thing as mineral spirits, but of a better quality. They refine the chemical to remove some of the bad odor and to slow the evaporation rate which also helps with the odor; hence the name sansodor, but it's origins are the same as hardware store turpentine. The best product on the market like Sansodor is called Gamsol and is made by Gamblin (the name means Gamblin Solvent), but even it has some odor, however those two products are comparable. Though odorless mineral spirits are modified to slow the evaporation rate they still evaporate rather quickly. Being extracted from oil they are oil solvents. They are very thin too. Because they are so thin they penetrate previous layers of paint rather easily and so if used as you did to lift early layers the chemical will sink into the paint getting trapped between the paint and the model. They will lift the paint as they evaporate. This is something that old sources warned us about and it's why previous generations of model makers thought oil paint and acrylics were entirely incompatible, but oil painters know differently. Using a more durable primer or varnishing the previous layer helps to prevent this because the evaporation doesn't affect a more durable layer as much and the better sealed surface helps to prevent penetration in the first place. But even if you don't try to lift any paint from a previous layer a layer of Vallejo spray isn't very durable and so it should be varnished, because as I said even rubbing it a bit will lift it. It's excellent for zenithal highlights though because of it's smooth application and it's ideal for preserving detail. More mild chemicals you can use to dissolve oil paint include water with plain white bar soap like ivory soap or Kirk's castile soap or clear dish soap, or glycerin based soaps like shaving soap from Colonel Conk, and so on. Soap isn't good to use on canvas because it embeds itself into the fibers, but it has a lot of uses. Soap and water can clean out your oil painting brushes really well. It'll remove a lot more pigment than mineral spirits alone will because it's a thick lubricant and a detergent that pushes the pigment away from the brush and it should be used after using mineral spirits or acetone based brush cleaner and paint remover to stop the attack of the hairs. And while speaking of it acetone can be diluted to remove oil paint and acrylic paint and it can be used a stripper. Mineral spirits of various kinds are pretty harsh on your brushes. So after washing it out you should add hair conditioner to your brushes. Though they sell special brush conditioner the kind you shower with works fine or you can make some from lanolin and olive oil or some aloe from your garden. You just rinse it out before you use the brush the next time. Some oil painters never allow their brushes to fully dry and use olive oil, mineral oil, or baby oil in their brushes as a conditioner or as a rinse to prevent the paint drying on their brushes between sessions, though too much in your paint can cause problems and it would be especially easy to use too much when miniature painting. Orange oil solvents used to clean up with too though some of these can be pretty aggressive, but many people can tolerate them better than they can petrol chemicals. You can also use mean green or simply green though these will color your model green and they will attack some topcoats used on cheap chromed plastic, but they are very good for cleaning resin models with a toothbrush to remove release chemicals left over during the molding process and of course we use them in 3d printing a lot. They are powerful degreasers, but also have a foaming detergent. The old school way of degreasing automotive parts or gun parts was to use leaded gasoline, but thankfully nobody really does that now. We have safer alternatives. Alcohol like isopropyl alcohol, vodka, wine, etc. will also work and are used in egg tempera painting, but they should be diluted with water for different strengths. No more than a 10% alcohol solution should be tried on the first pass. The old masters thinned oil paint with spike lavender oil (spikenard) which contains natural turpenes. This is what I use when I am painting on canvas or wood, but you can't use it on most plastics and you can't use a plastic palette when using it. And of course rather than thinning oil paint you can remove it as you fatten it with additional oil. That'll impart much more gloss however even to the areas you've removed the pigment from. You can use hardening oils like linseed, safflower, walnut, etc. or non drying oils like olive oil or vegetable oil. Non-drying oils must be used sparingly or the paint may not polymerize correctly. But if you put a little olive oil onto a Q-tip and dab most of it off a paper towel you can lift oil paint from the surface pretty easily unless it's already started to harden. That's why it's best to use only a small amount of thinner when painting with oils on models. The drawback of using less thinner during oil wash though is more gloss so a varnish with a matte coat like Testor's Dullcote after a layer you don't want to impart gloss to is a good idea. A lot of old bust painters would apply that with an airbrush after an oil layer.
@cyborgbadger1015
Жыл бұрын
I like the Kraftwerk style music intro.
@Matt-md5yt
Жыл бұрын
sweet glad you did this my friend.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Matt!
@Matt-md5yt
Жыл бұрын
@@52Miniatures no problem my friend. they look awesome
@hitscanner
Жыл бұрын
Magenta 👍 White Scar Spray paint 👍 Attention to detail 👍 Smoking (I smoke too!) 👍
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
👍
@YaBoiVD
Жыл бұрын
Puts on mask to spray prime, steps outside and starts smoking. Gave me a good chuckle
@sajicrossroad1862
Жыл бұрын
the "umber" in "raw umber" comes from Umbria, a region of italy. and "raw" is the opposite of "burnt" . literally you cook the same pigment and it changes color.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
that is one of the theories yes :)
@narrativecrusades707
Жыл бұрын
Great video mate, Shame ive just finished 4k of imperial fists for heresy! May use this on some centre piece large models!
@frankhorrigan5046
Жыл бұрын
Interesting that maybe explains why the figures i primed with Vallejo White constantly lost the other paints i was trying to apply. Never had this happen with Army Painter and GW cans.
@pazuzu_666
Жыл бұрын
Interesting. I wonder if they changed the formula? I use Vallejo Hobby spray paint often and it has never done that with oils. The can you have Alex, looks very different than the one I get here in Canada (white with pictures of a tank, WWII soldier and a Fantasy model iirc). The one I get specifically says "for metal and plastic" but little else. I use Mona Lisa odourless mineral spirits for my oil washes. No idea if any of those contribute to the differences, but again, that has never happened to me.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
This was a fresh delivery, it's their new logo on, like the way the game colour bottles look now. I don't know if they have altered the formula.
@pazuzu_666
Жыл бұрын
@@52Miniatures Ahh, I wasn't aware they were changing the branding on the rattle cans. I plan on stopping into my local hobby store and see if they have the new cans. Maybe I will waste $17 just to test it. 😆
@carlstanford7607
Жыл бұрын
I assume you varnished the white and just didn’t show that step. It’s the best way to work with oils as it protects the acrylic and eases the flow of oil into recesses
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
No, I wanted to keep this recipe simple. No varnish.
@ArchmageMinis
Жыл бұрын
Did you add a varnish layer before doing the oil wash? That is the only explanation I can think of is if you didn't varnish the models beforehand, since a varnish will protect the white layer
@52Miniatures
11 ай бұрын
There should be no need for varnish if the primer is an acrylic paint. White spirit does not dissolve acrylic paint only solvent based paint. That's sort of one of the major bonuses of the oil paint workflow. And that's why I tried all the other rattle cans in the video, none of the others where affected. And so the Vajello rattle can must be solvent based paint.
@ipwndcancer
Жыл бұрын
Dorn Lives ✊
@zramirez5471
Жыл бұрын
I guess I have to get back to work printing my warlord titan; I don't have anything else yellow to paint!
@alexthompson3447
5 ай бұрын
Love the effect generated by the magenta and am trying it myself. Stumbling over the contrast paint tho, it just pools and refuses to cover panels of the models… Perhaps my medium mix was too high, but did the same neat out of the pot?!? 😢
@52Miniatures
5 ай бұрын
I don’t know honestly. Maybe the surface underneath is too glossy?
@alexthompson3447
5 ай бұрын
@@52Miniatures thanks for responding. Maybe? I used an Army Painter spray primer, may try another brand next time.
@anthonylodewyke5069
Жыл бұрын
Hi Alex, do you varnish after using oils before painting acrylics on top? My concern is that the acrylic will not adhere to the surface of the miniature similar to how canvas painters only use oils on acrylic and not the other way around. Have you done any tests for this?
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
I sometimes do, in this case I felt no need.
@frost2392
Жыл бұрын
I've been noticing alot of the issues with primers too, across a variety of ranges, not just vallejo. And not just the reactivation. I've had Army Painter speedpaints seem hydrophobic over the GW contrast primers for example (grey seer specifically.) I mentioned this to a GW employee at the White Scar rollout with the second wave of contrast at the Dallas Citadel and he gave a small grin. Knowing smile or simple amusement, I've no idea. :) I have a feeling we're going to and are seeing some minor primer formulation changes as all of these different lines adapt to the "contrast" craze, much as some airbrush paints perform better with their own thinners/reducers. Just my opinion though, I could be totally wrong.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Indeed. I know there are confusions between different primers. There are for example solvent based primers, say from Tamiya. These are designed to stick to surfaces that are hard to adhere to. Like metal for example. One can then spray a layer of acrylic paint or varnish on top of that initial primer and so on. In the fantasy minipainting side of things we are a lot more into a "one stop fix", all based on working with plastic miniatures. As soon as the most common traditional mini painting workflows are altered we then stumble upon all kinds of little things that can happen because we've not learned much from our "one stop shop".
@frost2392
Жыл бұрын
@@52Miniatures Agreed. I tend to personally see this as an advantage though because it encourages us to move outside of our own inadvertently established ruts and try new things. I've probably spend more time deliberating in the paint isles not only at FLGS's but at dedicated Art Supply stores lately asking "what if I tried this." I was trained as a fine artist and moved into commercial design so the introduction of oils into a mini painting hobby has been both trippy and fun to watch, much less do.
@robertlavery6896
Жыл бұрын
I recommended you to my mum. She said "Robbie, don't be so bloody stupid".
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Your mother is indeed wise in her dealings with the klickbaitfolk
@martineasterman5170
Жыл бұрын
Please could you advise what colours you would use to achieve the same effect with dark angels green? Thank you.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Hey. Okay - sort of but would need testing: A bright red will make brown shadows, a magenta will make dark violet shadows, blue will make dark blue shadows, a brown like I made in the video will make warm dark green shadows. If you're going for traditional Space Marines, my first test would be to try a brown, as most Dark Angels don't have much of a colour shift in the shadows.
@martineasterman5170
Жыл бұрын
@52 Miniatures amazing and thank you for your help...I'll try and brown then and thank you!
@Tibruk64
Жыл бұрын
What is that pipette called? It seems very handy
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
I don’t know? Glass pipette?
@charmedimsure8852
Жыл бұрын
8:35.. Possibly the most Swedish I've seen you
@alternate3787
5 ай бұрын
And here I thought its the custom of our times to hate on White Scar. (Rightfully so, I will never buy any white rattlecan primer ever again.)
@TheNinetitle
Жыл бұрын
Also, remember to be cautious with what you thin your oil wash. I brought a thinner from an art store and found out later it doesn't like acrylics, amazing paint stripper thought 🥲😅
@GusMortis
Жыл бұрын
Hobbying on an artic death world is a pain.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
So inconvenient!
@TylerProvick
Жыл бұрын
Vallejo spray doesn't say that they are acrylic. Neither does it say that they are enamels. Very disappointing lack of information. One of the reasons I switched to kimera - they tell you what's in the paint.
@mrogface
Жыл бұрын
I've never seen anyone use their finger to get a transfer off the sheet
@nameisbad
Жыл бұрын
Man coming back to this hobby after spending almost a year of time painting canvases in oils and now in heavy body acrylics, it's wild hearing the absolute bullshit that is that yellow and red are transparent. No, the correct way of saying that is that hobby paints are cheap trash. Cadmium red and Cadmium yellow, including their "cadmium free" versions are opaque. (if anyone reads this and uses cadmium paints do NOT lick your brushes, in fact, grow up and stop doing such an unhealthy and lazy practice, more and more research and information is coming through about plastics and other pigments that make it look really bad for your future, especially if you plan to have kids of your own one day, as plastic has a chemicle that's greatly lowering our sperm counts) From what I remember from when I was active in this hobby: Vallejo's biggest problem is that their paints are fragile as can be, I'd assume the same of their primer, I know their brush on if I remember right was also fragile. GW's is a lot better quality, for once you do actually get what you pay for lol. Also be careful with painting acrylic over oils, make sure the oils are fully dry and cured, aka not just to touch, and even then if unlucky this will happen anyway: After a year or two, or sooner, you'll find the acylic cracks from the release of gas from the oils. Anyway, any weak ass primer will be annihalated by white spirit (mineral spirit), which is understandable as it's also a product used in cleaning, strong stuff. To be fair there's very little use for vallejo anymore outside their wash, metal colour paints, pigments, textures, washes etc. Their main paint line is essentially a crap version of ak interactive 3rd gen which covers better, is much more sturdy, more reliable bottles, better pigments and medium etc For contrast paints GW still is king, especially with the new formula ones. Honestly army painter is worthless in general at this point, their only good thing is their marketing towards those who don't know better, Vallejo is hit and miss, they need to rework their model color/game color brand and primers (airbrush/brush on/can) to be more resilient but that's because they have been left behind as other brands have pushed forward. Army painter literally has no excuse. But hey, the more you know via trial and error as well as from others mistakes the better we can all avoid accidents like this. Stuff like this is why I don't use inks anymore, they react so often to things like certain flow improvers, varnishes etc Essentially they are very fragile or tempremental depending on what is used on them and what reacts with what. I remember explaining to trovarion why some of his very sturdy paints reactivated due to a chemical reaction from a seperate reaction to another thing that I learnt from something similar happening to me with a different product, something which I went to the manufacturer to get their expert advise on: Winsor and newton. He acted like a confused baffoon as it all went over his head and somehow he thought he knew better than a company who knew how things worked at the chemical level as well as someone who spent douzens upon douzens of hours testing it all to figure out what was happening (me), never meet your heroes I suppose.
@honestminis9530
Жыл бұрын
This explains it all! Half a year of failures The only good thing is that as I thought I was the failure I moved on and found that I actually enjoy just painting with oils as on a canvas 😆
@ragozzinehq
Жыл бұрын
This is more than a hobby video. It’s a public service announcement. Thank you!!
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
I appreciate it Luddite
@Tectonicbg
Жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for this my friend. Every time I think I'm out, you draw me back in and make me want to paint some tiny men... Keep up the good work!
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
So glad to hear it. Thanks T
@jimsabo1189
Жыл бұрын
I hated painting yellow until I found out about basing pink first. Obviously the contrast has made things simpler, but it certainly saved me some money on some overpriced citadel pots that nearly ended up in the bin.
@EdwinK-13
Жыл бұрын
Beautiful work! A few episodes back you did a simple oil wash. I fell in love with it right away. I hadn't thought about using it as a starting point. Coincidentally I had printed a tank and wanted to do a yellow scheme. Alex to the rescue with a new wepon for my Arsenal. I will pot some pics on the discord as i work. Lata love from NC!
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Charles and please do! It would be cool to see the tank.
@redcossack3943
Жыл бұрын
I really like videos that focus in on one of the colors we "fear". Vincy V has also done a series, glad to see you also take up the challenge.
@willmendoza8498
Жыл бұрын
I love it that you show when things go wrong.
@420alphaomega
Жыл бұрын
Im curious, do you like rattlecan priming more than airbrush priming or do you just not have one? Oil washes work really well with airbrushing too
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
I used a can in this video to make it more approachable to those without an airbrush.
@thatotherguy7596
Жыл бұрын
Fascinating, from a scientific perspective as well as an artistic one. I would be impressed, but it is you after all Alex 😄 You always do amazing work. 💕
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Well thank you good sir 🖖
@thatotherguy7596
Жыл бұрын
@@52Miniatures Peace and long life 🖖
@Nooneslama
Жыл бұрын
Quality in every second of this channel
@acidcoen
Жыл бұрын
I've loved your style since the very beginning! Listening to you talk about painting is like a zen thing. Plus, the subtle humour makes me smile everytime 😀 Very good video Alex! Almost makes me want to start an Imperial Fists army... almost 😉
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks man, and good to hear from you. I hope all is well.
@acidcoen
Жыл бұрын
@@52Miniatures I'm great, thanks for asking! Just busy, as we all are, aren't we? Anyway, have a very pleasant day! :)
@stormycatmink
Жыл бұрын
If the white is coming off, it sounds like you use a acrylic 'primer'. The industry has started to confuse base coat paints with a true primer, and thus, most modelers don't know there's a difference. A primer is meant to both stick to the underlying part very well, and allow paint to stick to it (thus gloss paints can't easily be a primer either). I've yet to find any evidence that any acrylic (even with polyurethane additives) can be called a primer, unless they've added lacquer thinners or another strong solvent. So if it says 'acrylic', chances are, it's not actually a primer. There's a few exceptions in some Japanese brands, where they use acrylic binders with lacquer solvents rather than water, such as Tamiya and Mr. Hobby. Many acrylics are labeled as 'primers', but they don't actually adhere the underlying material very well. I've done a lot of side by side tests with various rattle-cans, acrylic 'primers', lacquer primers, solvent based acrylics, and even just any paint just using a lacquer thinner mixed in. In rattle cans, with airbrushes, and paint brushes. The reality is anything not using a solvent (like lacquer thinners) I can rub off with a finger. And I wouldn't consider those a primer at all. Those with a strong solvent, I can't even scratch it off with digging in with my fingernail. That is a primer. Sure, you can't easily strip the paint, but not stripping off the white or black primer is probably fine. This is pretty common knowledge in the scale modeling circles and youtube videos, but it hasn't seemed to make the transition to the wargame miniature channels yet. I think mostly because using nice clean plastic, primers just aren't as critical as when you're mixing various materials. Not to mention, oils, enamels and other harsh paints have been used for decades on scale plastic models, where proper primers were essential to surviving the solvents in those paints. If using acrylic on top of acrylic, as is the norm in wargaming, you're probably fine and never realized there's a whole world of paint chemistry out there. If you use a decent varnish between layers, even an acrylic one, even enamel or oil washes won't cause much trouble. But dig in to fine scale modeling, and you'll find libraries of information on all the various paint chemistries and how to mix and match them; and lacquer based primers are the gold standard. Games Workshop rattle-cans are indeed lacquer based primers.
@kalamity9
Жыл бұрын
Very good comment. Finally someone talks about the fact that a proper primer is more than just a basecoat. But I wonder, what materials are used in scale modelling to warrant such levels of adhesion? I am a miniature painter, so am not that well versed on the subject.
@stormycatmink
Жыл бұрын
@@kalamity9 The biggest problems are either metals (like cables and struts added from piano or lead wire), or non-styrene plastics used for little bits; resins, vinyl, nylon, etc. They're often more stubborn for paint adhesion. Lacquer thinners are also pretty agressive against organic compounds, meaning any residues or oils you weren't able to clean up perfectly are dealt with. They can even adhere to slightly rusty or otherwise oxidized stuff. For larger models, filler/sandable primer works wonders, but usually not ideal for miniatures with such fine detail. But some use them effectively with an airbrush for gundam, which is just as detailed (arguably even more). If you go with thin coats, it's usually fine. And when I'm referring solvents, I'm referring to a 'hot solvent' like MEK or other lacquer thinners, not white spirits. The biggest issue is that you not only need to protect yourself from breathing in paint particles (just like acrylic), but the vapors from the evaporating solvents are toxic, and you need to remove the fumes from the air. So well-ventilated is a must, not just breathing filters. Though a very fancy painting air filter masks can even scrub the solvents out from when you breathe, supposedly.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the deep dive S! I appreciate it.
@stegotron
Жыл бұрын
Great video, showed both the successes and failures that come with the hobby (well, a vallejo fail perhaps), and definitely a good way of doing yellow
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Michael!
@alexthompson3447
Жыл бұрын
Another great video, thanks Alex! Certainly getting your content value for money out of this box set! 😂 Any clever plans to cover the vehicles?
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
I think so! at least the two legged thing.
@mordecaitoth6703
Жыл бұрын
8:22 This scene... très magnifique
@Rokemikal
Жыл бұрын
nice, my man having a smoke too! you love to see it. i smoke my pipe and paint minis often, its an amazing combo.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@Gokou3036
Жыл бұрын
The painting content is as always amazing, but the story of overcoming adversity with your first primer was supremely enjoyable.
@markgnepper5636
Жыл бұрын
Great stuff friend 👏 👍 Thanks for sharing your journey
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Mark!
@Calibretto9
26 күн бұрын
I think I lean ever so slightly to the Bright Pink, but it's between Pink and Magenta. I like the warmth. Also, phenomenal content. Such a well put together video.
@DannyEastes
4 ай бұрын
Curse my colourblindness, I genuinely see no difference in each of the undercoats! But what I can see is some wonderfully smooth and vibrant yellow marines!
@punk6119
Жыл бұрын
Alternatively, skip the oil paint step, imperial fist yellow over white/wrath bone > wash with 1:1:1 mix of agrax/casandoa yellow/contrast medium all over > drybrush/stipple white > 2:1 imperial fist yellow/contrast medium on just the parts you stippled/drybrushed > done. Just make sure the imperial fist yellow dries fully because it doesn't like washes if it's not. I've had spots that turned fuzzy for some reason when not fully dry. But even then should cut down the wait time and need for oils all together...
@Marconius6
Жыл бұрын
I've had issues with Vallejo primer too: not like this, I just couldn't get it to cover properly, ended up putting on too much, and then it looked all grainy. My current top pick for white primer is Tamiya, that stuff is magic...
@myRX123456
Жыл бұрын
Fantastic video, but what's with the bashing and the spite? No one has been throwing Speedpaints or corax white in the trash. The spray is solvent based, it should mention it in the can, yes. Good to know, but why be so spiteful about this particular spray? Tamiya acrylics don't mention they are alcohol based and, after messing a brush on them the first time, I have loved them. AP sprays bulge and separate in the air, Citadel pots dry up... Each brand has it's on things, good and bad, and I don't see why would you be so salty about this particular can.
@keithkraine475
Жыл бұрын
I always love your content 52. The pace and style of your videos is superb. As usual informative and entertaining. ;_
@MisterTingles
Жыл бұрын
always a kick in the pants when one of the paints you buy doesn't behave the way you expect it to, or at all as it should sometimes... I bought an AK transparent yellow, intent on using it as a median between a glaze and contrast paints, but something about it just wasn't right, don't know if it was just that bottle, but it just wouldn't cure at all, staying sticky and gummy forever... only thing I can think of might be that it's not meant to be brushed on and for airbrush only, but I doubt that would change anything about the acrylic resin not curing properly... really like AK paints, just not that particular damn yellow. Oh and their gloss medium was also weird, kept curdling up on me, both on its own, and when mixed with other paints... couldn't find anything on something like that happening to anyone else, so I'm left to wonder if some of their bottles are just not great sometimes. Anyway, bought the Green Stuff World equivalent of yellow contrast paint, super happy with it.
@Mikey__R
Жыл бұрын
I've been super enthusiastic about championing oil washes for ages. Except I've moved house, and now my hobby room is (temporarily) also my work office and also my bedroom. Painting with solvents isn't an option right now. In the old house, I never did manage to get the wiping technique to work. I found it easier in the end to do a targeted pinwash, and clean up any mistakes with a brush dipped in white spirit.
@Tsortso1
Жыл бұрын
I wish you had uploaded this one 2 months earlier as i have been a "Vallejo" victim on my Nighthaunt project...I love you anyway! 😜
@sittingstill3578
Жыл бұрын
The LED bulb above the spray box looks like the ceramic type featured on _BigClive’s_ tear down and reverse engineering video a couple days ago. He’s of the opinion it’s designed to last a really long time.
@JamesS-rt8jp
Жыл бұрын
I love Vallejo's paint generally, but not their spray paint. As actual *paint* it's just fine; as primer it's... well, let's just say it's not good, at least in my experience. Supposedly you *can* use it as primer, but then again you can do the same with their regular bottled paint. Doesn't make either one a particularly good idea, though.
@joel6376
Жыл бұрын
>we'll never know Until someone pays for mass spectrometer of hobby paint ;) Was waiting for this after your last "test" video.
@ryanmachan1302
Жыл бұрын
Fantastic video. Well spoken. Overcoming your surprise priming adversary was both informative and made for an interesting narrative.
@raviahmad9903
Жыл бұрын
Very timely- I’ve got some yellow feathers on a skink headdress that are just not working. Lots of ideas here!
@przemekkielczewski9248
Жыл бұрын
Hobby paints names started at scale models where german grey describes in a much better way a specific shade of grey, there is also a ferrari red for example. Then we have hobby paints with names that probably were designed to sound cool, so kids would buy them. Although Steel legion drab is probably a colour of choice for Steel legion.
@Dezkoi
Жыл бұрын
17:55 Perhaps the favorite can change with base in mind? A much darker base might altered the mindset if magenta was say apposing a dark greenish blue or blue primary. Might be a interesting test for yourself to add a extra layer of forethought. Always trying to find those myself, but here the thought occurred because of the mars like end result.
@thekkidd3d
Жыл бұрын
The late still Great Bob Ross used to say that technique is just a mistake you can repeat. I have found this to ring true in my decades of painting and drawing. It is just as true now that I am turning my brushes to minis. Thank you for another awesome video and for keeping the parts most would cut out, so we can all learn from it.
@Sommeill
Жыл бұрын
Sweet, I can't wait to show off my Stone Gauntlet army to my friends! Totally not powergaming btw.
@derekgarcia3069
Жыл бұрын
No matter how many of your videos I watch, I'm always amazed at your production.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Thank you Derek! I appreciate it
@whittaker007
Жыл бұрын
They look great, but that final Agrax wash layers over the oil shades practically erasing the differences in tone between them except for the extreme close up where you can see the undertones in a couple of places. At least on camera. I wonder if you would notice much difference if you skipped the oil wash step altogether.
@PhD777
Жыл бұрын
Reactivation- this is why you use GESSO! 😁👍🏻🎅👍🏻🤪
@Solfjant69420
Жыл бұрын
That magenta one is glorious! Glad I saw this before I started painting. Stort tack!
@Diceslice
Жыл бұрын
Good video, very informative. But I think it's rather funny that you're using a mask and airbrush booth only to go out and take a smoke later haha.
@noahwilson422
Жыл бұрын
I've had this solvent based spray paint removal problem happen a couple of times on terrain. I now clear coat between the priming and oil wash step using an acrylic clear coat.
@Antheraws
Жыл бұрын
Would love to see this method using the airbrush. I like seeing options man. This was great. Wash Posh?
@Sichuanbeef
Жыл бұрын
I've heard of a few primers doing this. I have yet to see Stynelrez have this issue.
@thorinteague989
Жыл бұрын
Wow, this is why internet rabbitholes can (sometimes) be worth digging down into. Can I just toss empty rattle cans into the recycling? Because that's what I've always done. If there's something one needs to do to prep it for recycling, I don't know what it is. Great video and +1 subscriber!
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
As I say at the end of the video. No, don’t throw your can in the bin. Leave it to be properly recycled 👍
@flowinsounds
Жыл бұрын
congratulations, you are the fist youtuber to paint yellow that does not have a heavy orange vibe
@Elijah.Lionel.Newmacht
Ай бұрын
Really appreciate your content sir, especially showing test and fails/accidents with products. Very soothing tutorials great quality as always.
@52Miniatures
Ай бұрын
Thank you very much, I appreciate it.
@gbarrratt
Жыл бұрын
Came here to learn how to paint yellow. Ended up watching a videographical work of art. And learned how to paint yellow. Success.
@52Miniatures
Жыл бұрын
Welcome Giz 👋
@frost2392
Жыл бұрын
And yes, GW primer so far is some of the best out there for rattlecan.
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