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Episode 243 of Love At First Scent
This was a KZitem Live broadcast streamed on Sunday 9th January 2022. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
In this episode, I talked about three classics by perfume Pierre Bourdon: YSL Kouros (1981), Davidoff Cool Water (1988) and Frederic Malle Iris Poudre (2000).
Introduction 0:00
Frederic Malle Iris Poudre 3:24
Davidoff Cool Water 7:47
YSL Kouros 12:40
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Here’s the blotter update:
- What a fascinating little exercise this turned out to be: taking three key scents from different points in a perfumer’s career and trying to track the development of his style. Definitely something to bear in mind for future videos. In this case, it’s Bourdon’s expert handling of syrupy fruit notes that has come to the fore. It is what gives Iris Poudre its curves and prevents it from becoming yet another wintry take on iris. It is, of course, what lends Cool Water that sense of irrepressible verve and energy. But also, most unexpectedly, it is what gives Kouros its soul. For several hours after the end of the broadcast, I kept returning to the two different Kouros blotters. And even though they are both extremely similar and recognisably the same scent, I promise you that, every single time, I successfully distinguished between the original and the newer version. The key difference? The former displays a smoothness, warmth and roundness that, at least in part, appears to stem from something plummy and prune-like. So perhaps the seeds of Feminite Du Bois were sown many years earlier, within YSL’s testosterone monster.
Thanks for watching.
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[Sample of Iris Poudre provided by the brand; sample of original YSL Kouros provided by a viewer; the remainder are from my personal collection.]
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Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands*, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.
[* In November 2020, I was commissioned to complete a writing project by the brand Amouage. The project may or may not have a bearing on the scents released by the brand from 2021 onwards. At the time of writing this note, my intention is to continue mentioning and reviewing all Amouage scents released up to the end of 2020, except in posts/articles where perfumes from several brands are included and presented as part of a selection/collection (eg ‘best of’ posts and lists).]
Copyright 2022 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved.
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