Best thing to remove the vvt solenoid is spray a bit of WD-40 on them leave for ten minutes and twist back and forth a few times and they just release.
@kevinmaguire1985
4 ай бұрын
Did you have any trouble torquing tge crankshaft pulley bolt up? My biggest fear is removing the crankshaft pulley. 😮
@johnnytigs8503
4 ай бұрын
Just make sure you torque the bolt with a torque wrench. By a timing kit from ebay. The z18xe and z18xer both have a place between the Bell housing and engine to lock the crankshaft which should be in the timing locking kit. If you don't have the kit and it's a manual just put it in 5th gear with the brake pedal depressed with a piece of wood. That will be enough resistance.
@eastman4174
4 ай бұрын
Thats a great video, i have to change VVT solonoids and timing belt soon, have done it before without any problems but its good to know how you dealt with the snapped off solonoid, excellent video 👍
@johnnytigs8503
4 ай бұрын
Thanks so much for watching. I'm glad the video helped. Yep, the solenoids was the biggest challenge. I couldn't find any videos that showed how to get them out when they get stuck but what I did will work every time. Just be careful, the plastic electrical connectors of the VVt solenoids can get brittle from heat over the years. Remove it using a jewelers screwdriver, not by hand.
@user-sf7kl9uh7k
4 ай бұрын
Some silly person didn't change the water pump last time, they say it can last two belt changes but this is BS
@dwilliams6346
6 ай бұрын
Obviously this was 2 years ago, and I don't mean this to be a harsh criticism but how long after this did you realise you left your crankshaft timing almost 10* out? That actuator rattling noise should've stopped with new parts but it was still very loud, so they were trying to fix the timing discrepancy when you started it for the first time. I'm due to sort out my timing issue after replacing the crankshaft pulse ring and sensor, and already done a tonne of research before I start. To change the two actuators over you not only have to lock the two cams but also the crankshaft by the flywheel, ensuring the crank markings line up as well as the cams and actuators before anything is disassembled. None of it must move a millimetre the entire time. Then when you line up the new actuators and button the new bolts down pre-torque so you don't stretch them, you need to turn the crankshaft pulley two rotations in the direction of drive by hand, and then do another line up check, and if the bar doesn't fit into the cams at the back you need to reset everything again until it is perfect. TDC is absolutely vital for BTDC spark advantage. I can imagine you had a very lumpy and angry Astra after that if this wasn't rectified. Did you get a P0315 fault code by any chance?
@johnnytigs8503
6 ай бұрын
Hey mate. My car is perfect. I had no fault code and what you described didn't happen to me. Of course you have to lock up the camshafts to take the phasers off but that's easy because the cams have a slot in them. The engine has a locking space underneath between the trans and engine and you do that to tighten the crank pulley (manual cars get away with it). I don't know how you determined my phasers and crankshaft are all off in degrees when the notches and crank line up. Power is great, no complaints. 40,000kms later!! My engine rattle ended up to be a dodgy water pump pulley with play on acceleration. All the stuff you said is covered and in other videos so yeah, like I said
@greggordon8212
9 ай бұрын
Hi ,can anyone tell me what is behind the timing belt and related pulleys and gears. I have an oil leak from inside. Is there a video on this problem?
@johnnytigs8503
9 ай бұрын
I have another video that shows this. It's the z18xer but similar for z18xe. It's the seal behind the camshaft sprocket/ timing gear (either inlet or outlet) behindkzitem.info/news/bejne/zbBvy5-GfmWcqpgsi=mlxke-Q-aedcY4PA
@user-wh3yj1kn4i
11 ай бұрын
Hey Mate, looking for some advice. Working on a Z18xer. Cams sprockets are locked along with a plate at the other end (had to check TDC). The issue is when putting the new timing belt on over the two cam wheels - the belt is 1/2 tooth to tight - meaning the belt has significant amount of play (and the same when testing the old belt). I am also not able to stretch the belt to gain that half tooth. The effect of which is that it also impossible to get the belt on around the crankshaft pulley and tensioner etc. In looking at multiple videos, everyone seems to be able to put the belts back on with relative ease. Wondering if you have any words of advice.
@johnnytigs8503
11 ай бұрын
You should be able to get the belt on I don't have any advice other than what I have done in the video. I did this several years ago (despite the video being only a year old as that is when I made it). I looked at my video again. If you have a locking pin or something to put in the hole for the tensioner that will help. From the video, I left the belt of the idler and fitted it on the tensioner and camshaft phasers and crankshaft sprocket. Then I put the belt on the idler pulley after moving the crankshaft sprocket a little forward. If you haven't look at my link in the description of when you put the belt on.
@MyScotty7
7 ай бұрын
Did u sort problem out ok?
@iliemez8867
Жыл бұрын
What's the part number for the shocks you installing
@tye595
Жыл бұрын
constant tension clamps are way better than the screw-type clamps you talk about. They allow for expansion in turn stopping leaking IMO
@omarismith3655
Жыл бұрын
Hi mate doing my z20lel timing belt. Same variation as this My new belt is extremely stiff too, whenever I’m trying to get it over the last cam. The crank jumps 2-3 teeth from TDC. Any tips to get the crank to stay in one place? Mine is a manual
@johnnytigs8503
Жыл бұрын
Firstly, get the locking tools that are available for your engine from ebay or another online marketplace. If you use the correct locking tool, it shouldn't move. In this video, I made a locking tool but it wasn't perfect. Use both hands at the same time, that should help you as well with getting the belt on. Push each hand to the belt, using the bone at the base of your inner hand. It will go on eventually
@zarkodanicic
Жыл бұрын
Does this engine (Z18XER) have hydraulic valve lifters or does their clearance have to be manually adjusted at a certain mileage?
@Deanyfromtheburgh
2 жыл бұрын
Any elaboration on locking the cams?
@DeviousGaming177
2 жыл бұрын
I have just changed my 2 cam sensors or the other-side of the head and got told there is one where the timing belt is? Is this correct?
@geradkavanagh8240
3 жыл бұрын
Replaced the water pump in our 2006 AH Astra 12 months ago. Did the timing belt and related gear at the same time. 5,000 km later, I am currently putting it all back together again as I found the oil pump filter feeder and pump were totally sludged up. Just a warning for anyone doing a water pump on these at 180,000 km. Just go the whole way and drop the oil pan, clean all the burnt and carbonised deposits out you can. replace or overhaul the oil pump at the same time otherwise you will find yourself dismantling the whole lot more than once.
@johnnytigs8503
3 жыл бұрын
I would say that it depends on the maintenance of the vehicle. If there hasn't been sufficient oil changes on a car that has 180,000kms, dropping the oil pan and cleaning what is inside would be practical. If the engine is fairly clean and sludge free then you won't need to drop the pan. It's easy enough on the ASTRA being FWD luckily. Thanks for the added observation!
@ibrahimkir4058
3 жыл бұрын
When should replace timing belt Opel Astra 2000
@gregorteply9034
3 жыл бұрын
Hi! How did you prevent the crank shaft from spinning?
@Magnettik
3 жыл бұрын
Hey, how did you get that crankshaft pulley to stop spinning along with the bolt ? Mine just endlessly does that.
@ayetee8403
3 жыл бұрын
The cuts are for the proximity switch to read the cam angle
@maedrosbott5274
3 жыл бұрын
Great job with this video, it was extremely helpful.
@cruxinterfaces
5 жыл бұрын
Clean Install, we will be at SEMA please subscribe to our channel!
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