Thanks for the review, much aprpeciated. Have you ever used Ameralabs TGM-7? If so, how do you think it compares to the RPG resin?
@warkingminiatures
9 күн бұрын
@@mackbolan1733 I have not. I need to get a bottle to try. However, on Facebook, MariaZN posted a comparison of the two in the Phrozen 3D Printer group. The TGM-7 was a bit stronger.
@mackbolan1733
9 күн бұрын
@@warkingminiatures Thanks for the reply. I'm currently using TGM-7 for minis, but it is super expensive, I was hoping that this RPG resin would be comparable as it is cheaper...
@robertwilkinson6638
28 күн бұрын
RWTATTOO I gave some suggestions on the creation of this resin and my models are part of the advertising campaign 🫡👍
@arnoldlevy8170
Ай бұрын
Thank you a lot ! I just pre ordered a Mars 5 as my first 3D printer and I was looking for a resin. I play D&D and I broke 2 of my player's 3D printed figs recently. This is exactly what I need.
@wschlundt
Ай бұрын
Thanks for an indepth look at this resin! Can't wait to get hold of it!
@markburton5292
Ай бұрын
looks like it will be a good resin to print with for using with minis that you don't have to do any mixing with
@squighideimpride7999
5 ай бұрын
Hej! Im interested in this mix cause aqua has it downsides. Do you noticed a loss in detail and can you leave it in the vat and just mix it up with a silicone scraper? Thanks in advance!
@warkingminiatures
5 ай бұрын
No loss in detail. I leave mine in the vat for weeks at a time sometimes. Just be sure to mix it very well before printing again. It does tend to separate over time.
@allanlarsen3261
6 ай бұрын
First of, loved the video. Exactly what I was looking for. I know I am a little late, but I have a question I hope you might answer (if you see this). The Flesh of Gods miniatures usually comes pre-supported. Did you use their supports out of the box, or did you use your own (or modified theirs)? I have seen other flexible resins where printed miniatures needed more than normal supporting due to the extra flexibility.
@warkingminiatures
6 ай бұрын
Great question! I print their presupported models. Atlas does their supports and they have been really good. I use the 60/40 mix, and sometimes, I will need to add a little extra help to the models. I always run them as is at first. If I have failures, then I can add support, and all is well. Over the past 6 or 8 months, their supports have gotten even better for the soft mix I'm using. Generally, it's a larger model that gets a little extra help. I've also noticed that the mix doesn't do well with unsupported long and thin objects like a staff or support. I have had to add small supports along the shaft to keep it from shifting. I also use a 1.2mm shaft diameter support with a .2mm tip. I will vary the tip size depending on what exactly I'm supporting on the model. Speaking of supports, removing them with this mix is blissful. I warm them up with a hair dryer and just bend the rafts for probably 80% of the supports. Their Behir model was the best for this method. The supports opened up like a flower revealing the model ready to be plucked. Haha, it was great! Maybe I'll print that one again and get a video of it this time.
@allanlarsen3261
6 ай бұрын
@@warkingminiatures Thanks for the response. Very helpful. I am always careful not to make the printing process harder or messier than it needs to be 🙂 However I am willing for a bit of extra mess, if this means my players dare touch a mini I have spend hours painting. A showcase mini is cool and all, but if you are too afraid to touch it, it kind of lose its purpose in my opinion :-)
@ecommasters3847
6 ай бұрын
Thankyou for this.. very helpful
@luisdanielmirandagomez7582
7 ай бұрын
i was looking for this information :) gonna buy the same 3d printer next january :D (is my first printer ever!)
@spechtmaxime4201
7 ай бұрын
Hey hello ! I wanted to make my aqua 8k resin less breakable. My minis break easily if I use just the aqua grey. With the Onyx mixed it’s more durable ?
@warkingminiatures
7 ай бұрын
Yes, Onyx helps a lot. You can find a couple other videos on my channel where I do testing of the Aqua 8k vs 80/20 vs 60/40 and a video comparing a Conjure 8k with Conjure Tough mixture to the AG8k with Onyx mix.
@perche26
7 ай бұрын
Very interesting video, normally I also use the standard 8k from chitu and I was thinking of mixing it with the tough to increase the flexibility in miniatures. I discarded the phrozen and onyx because of their price, both bottles would be almost 180 euros, while the other two are around 70. I was surprised by so much curing time in pieces, at least in the chitubox ones the brand recommends 30s in miniatures and 1m in big pieces, enough to not be sticky to the touch, I imagine that with more curing time flexibility is lost and talking about times, have you had to modify the exposure times when you have made the mix, or have you had to modify any other parameter? and have you perceived a loss of quality in the mix? My idea was 80%-20% but if there is no loss of quality or change in the printing parameters I could increase the mix.
@warkingminiatures
7 ай бұрын
When I first worked up the Phrozen mix, I compared 80/20 and 60/40 to straight Aqua Gray 8k. The details were not lost to my eye, but gained a lot of durability. For what I got from the 60/40 Conjure, I don't think a heavier mix will retain the details I'm looking for, and I also wasn't impressed with the durability from that mix. Yes, Phrozen is more expensive, but the added durability and detail retention is worth it to me. I have the Phrozen mix testing video on my channel if you want to see more from that mix.
@warkingminiatures
Ай бұрын
@swedish.sweink send me a bottle and I'll do it. I've found that I prefer the premium resins for my needs. From helping many people dial in their resins and printers, Ive learned that the less expensive resins dont perform as well as the premium stuff. So, I'm not really interested in the more affordable stuff. I have premium demands of the resins I use and want to produce the best model I can regardless of resin cost. With that, the Ameralabs TGM-7 is on my list of resin to check out.
@enigmaticreverieproduction5169
7 ай бұрын
Thank you for the video, just ordered this printer. It’s my first resin printer, if you can find the time in your busy schedule can you print a spiderman or some kind of bust figurine with the largest size this printer can print? Would like to see the largest it can do with inches and in your hands for an idea, but everyone is making miniatures
@warkingminiatures
7 ай бұрын
Message me on Discord warkingminiatures
@enigmaticreverieproduction5169
7 ай бұрын
@@warkingminiatures will do!
@enigmaticreverieproduction5169
7 ай бұрын
@@warkingminiatures can’t find you on discord
@warkingminiatures
7 ай бұрын
@@enigmaticreverieproduction5169 what's your discord name? I'll see if I can find you.
@enigmaticreverieproduction5169
7 ай бұрын
@@warkingminiatures DiarrheaBurnz :) lol and yes my kids love my username haha
@user-fk1rm2ck5f
8 ай бұрын
hola esa mezcla sirve para imprimir engranajes ?
@warkingminiatures
8 ай бұрын
I print gaming miniatures with it. If your gears need to hold high torque, then you may want a full strength Onyx Impact Plus.
@Konradius001
10 ай бұрын
I have this printer in an enclosure, and you might think that that USB port is in an awkward position... Until you buy a cheap 1m USB-extension cable. The cable is always attached to the printer, and I can swap the USB drive outside the enclosure so there is no chance at all to get resin on it.
@warkingminiatures
10 ай бұрын
Awesome, great idea!
@1337FLINT.
8 ай бұрын
Hello, what type of enclosure did you use? I think i'm gonna buy this printer soon
@Konradius001
8 ай бұрын
@@1337FLINT. I used the biggest creality enclosure. But I also DIYed a lot of additional stuff, like building a ventilator in the enclosure and a vent to the outside. I used the biggest one because it houses a wash & cure machine as well. Both have a cap that can be lifted off the machines while completely inside the enclosure. And of course it is during that action that the ventilator is most important. While the caps are on the machines the resin fumes stay mostly inside. I have actually been toying with the idea of making some youtube videos about building this. Most of the elements I designed to be printed on my FDM 3d printer. I think the option to have that enclosure with an air filter inside it might be viable.
@1337FLINT.
8 ай бұрын
@@Konradius001 Noted, maybe i'll try to find it on you tube, since it's my first printer. Also i have a question, is that okay to print in a room that don't have air conditioner? i think i will put the printer in my living room, near the window. Thanks for advance
@Konradius001
8 ай бұрын
@@1337FLINT. Well, already you are putting more thought into this than others who print with potentially hazardous materials. There are people who just use such a printer in their living room and cope with the funny smell. The real problem there is that the fumes might have adverse long term effects. I think you might be fine with an enclosure and an air purifier, but don't make health decisions based on a random comment by a random internet user like me. I like my own setup (and I cannot show you as I have not made a video and might never do so), and I do not smell the stuff outside the enclosure and actually not even in the enclosure in between printing. If I check the enclosure during printing I have a mask with good filters.
@mrshades103189
11 ай бұрын
Can you share the settings used to print with this mix ?
@warkingminiatures
11 ай бұрын
You should always run your own tests to develop your settings. My settings vary across my printers. On my Saturn 2: Layer height .020mm Bottom layers 8 Transition layers 8 Bottom exposure 60s Normal exposure 7s Wait before Lift. 5s Wait after retract 4s Lift height 9mm Lift speed 40mm/min Retract speed 180mm/min
@Floki3030
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video, i had no idea there were so many screws in this, i thought this was the way, but glad i found a video that pretty much says take your time putting on the nfep film. Lol
@dougbolton5503
Жыл бұрын
I pretty much have the same printer and resins available... what settings are you using for the resin - the User Guide "exposure times" vary by 20 seconds?? TIA
@warkingminiatures
Жыл бұрын
For the 60/40 mix I use 4.8s exposure, .020 layer height, 4s wait before print, 3mm x 3mm lift height, 40mm/min and 180mm/min, 4mm x 2mm retract distance, 180mm/min and 60mm/min, 6 bottom layers, 45s bottom exposure (iirc), 6 transition layers.
@S.A.S.H.
Жыл бұрын
What in the world happened to that box? It looks like they floated it to your house in an inner tube.
@warkingminiatures
Жыл бұрын
🤣 might as well have, it was raining the day it was delivered. I tried to orient the box so the saturated side wasn't as visible in the video. Obviously you can see the mess it left on the table. 😆
@jeremiahembs5343
Жыл бұрын
No side vent holes at all? Very concerning. No doubt the system will overheat and shorten the lifespan of the components especially in warm environments. If anything these companies need to be improving the cooling system of these printers, not eliminating them. A heads up too: Another reviewer had a problem with the receptacle for the power source as it wiggled and so the printer wouldn't stay on, so obviously it had a short. So that's a safety issue the company needs to address. They need to support the receptacle and reinforce the soldering there better.
@warkingminiatures
Жыл бұрын
I have the same concern as far as venting. Time will tell.
@jeremiahembs5343
Жыл бұрын
Good review. Even though I prefer some disassembly to lubricate the threaded rod it's not necessary for people who aren't so mechanically inclined to remove those screws to do it. You can just remove the build plate and cover the printer's screen with a towel to keep it clean and then use you use a small toothbrush or rough paint brush and use mineral oil soften and remove the old grease wiping the brush on a paper towel occasionally as you are removing the old grease. You can move the platform up and down with the controls on the printer so that you can clean the whole rod and the grease will be transferred onto the clean areas of the rod from threaded hole in the build plate arm too and the rod cleaned again until most of the old grease is all gone. Of course the rails can be cleaned the same way. And then new grease can be apply as necessary with the brush again. While mineral oil or crisco vegetable shortening will work as a lubricant in a pinch clear grease or white lithium like you use is best as it stays where you put it and it doesn't melt.
@warkingminiatures
Жыл бұрын
I prefer to remove the arm completely, as I did with my Mini 8k printers. Good idea though for those that don't have the tools or experience to remove the arm.
@Felix.Wingfield
Жыл бұрын
I'd be interested in seeing some low-poly 10mm figures.
@warkingminiatures
Жыл бұрын
I'd be happy to print an example for you if you want to send me a file.
@tanukiworkshop
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the very informative video! Pre-ordered it yesterday as my first resin printer, feeling like we reached a point in printing quality that won't give me buyer's regret whenever a new model comes out 😂
@pgabrieli
Жыл бұрын
if you look at dennys wang's review, he actually tested how the green fluo cover blocks UV and apparently it blocks 100%. to the point he though his equipment was faulty. but it wasn't
@warkingminiatures
Жыл бұрын
Yes indeed! I think I mentioned that in this video briefly. Haha, I saw his video just before I wrapped up the voice dubbing on this video.
@beansworks1417
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for your insight, this is just the review I need. I already pre-ordered and can't wait to get mine and try this out.
@FauxHammer
Жыл бұрын
Great video - good details in here.
@johneutube1975
Жыл бұрын
Nice job! Thanks for this. I really like how you get to it wihtout a bunch of lookie here stuff.
@warkingminiatures
Жыл бұрын
Thanks, that means a lot. My videos aren't flashy by any means, just want to get the info out there so everyone else can make the best decision for their needs.
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