Great video! A few questions. Okay to use a red light in the darkened closet? Do any of the developing chemicals stain bathroom sinks?Also, do you have videos on printing? Is printing complicated…expensive? Thanks!!
@richpence
2 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching and for your interest! Question one about red light in the film loading closet: for film NO!! No red light, no light of any kind while you are loading and unloading film. Nearly all standard camera film, color or B&W is sensitive to all wavelengths and colors of light (called Panchromatic Film) so any light will fog the film. However for B&W darkroom papers, those used for making prints from film, that is generally OrthoChromatic, meaning it’s only sensitive to green and blue light but not to Red light. Q2: standard B&W chemistry is not likely to stain a sink with careful use. If you were to leave chemistry sitting in a sink, or drops not wiped up and cleaned with water, it could cause staining, but this would be improper and unsafe habits. In general, all chemistry should be kept in its containers, and some, like fixer and Color developing chemistry, should never go down the sink, and any spare drops should be wiped up and then the area wiped down with more water or basic cleaning chemicals like shower cleaner (I like scrubbing bubbles cleaner as my go to) if you have a chemical that is safe to put down the drain for disposal, you should have the water running, and slowly pour the chemical down right into the drain. Be safe and do not splash around the chemicals. As I said in the video make sure you do have a spare towel that you do not mind getting stained that can just be your Darkroom Towel, I’ve used the same one for around 12 years and it has accumulated many stains, most likely from fixer, which stains fabrics brown. Drops of Developer do oxidize into a kind of brown spot if not cleaned, but generally they can be wiped away with water. It is best practice to wear an apron when working, and long reusable plastic gloves can be used, don’t actively touch chemistry with your hands. Q on printing: I do not have any videos on printing at home, such as in a bathroom, but I do have some hopes to make such videos, including how to turn your film camera into an enlarger for making small prints in a bathroom. I do not find printing to be very complicated, but I have a lot of experience, I find many students are able to pick it up and feel comfortable after a few weeks in class. It is not dissimilar to shooting a film camera with manual settings, but of course it has its own process and steps and proper procedures. I do have a couple videos where I am working in the darkroom, this being a more purpose built darkroom lab, with dedicated sinks and enlargers. In my Ansel Adam’s video, bookmarked at the end are two tutorials for making test strips and making a simple final print. It is a nice bright video of working in the darkroom, so watching that video may help show what the full process looks like. Printing in the darkroom has a variety of pricing to consider, it can become expensive for larger and more expensive paper types, but chemistry tends to be as affordable as film developing chemicals, a couple of the chemicals like stop bath and fixer can be shared for both film and paper developing. The paper itself, for the most basic kind is around $0.75-1 for 8x10 sized, 5x7 is maybe 30 cents a sheet, which that is about as big as I’d suggest a beginner or anyone in a bathroom to try and do. I have 11x14 set up in my bathtub for developing paper negatives from my large camera I just posted a video on, but three 5x7 sized trays can normally fit around a sink. With the fourth wash tray in the sink. I hope you consider developing your own film! It really is a valuable part of the process, that will save you money for buying more film!
@williamotto2725
Күн бұрын
Thanks so much!! Very, very helpful. I remember friends in the 70’s who developed their own film and said it wasn’t that difficult. I might give it a try. Thanks again!
@richpence
Күн бұрын
@@williamotto2725 best of luck!
@mitchk99
2 күн бұрын
Great job, it seems easy to do. I like the way the bellows turned out.
@richpence
2 күн бұрын
Thanks very much! Bellows and a few of the wood cuts were the hardest thing to do, but most of the time was spent on really figuring out all the dimensions.
@NORDPOLFILMKANAL
2 күн бұрын
Thank you so much for your effort to create this video and build this wonderful camera. Its such an inspiration to slow down more while taking pictures.
@richpence
2 күн бұрын
Thanks very much for watching! I appreciate it!
@Aarleks
2 күн бұрын
Very cool. I'd totally make and use that lens. Would love to see a tutorial.
@richpence
2 күн бұрын
I will be making a video sharing final designs and tutorials by the end of the summer!
@John76220
2 күн бұрын
thanks for the inspiration, i'll try to make my own now !
@richpence
2 күн бұрын
Awesome! I hope it goes great!
@lhuhnphotography
2 күн бұрын
I would love to see how you built this lens.
@richpence
2 күн бұрын
I will be making a full video on my findings and tutorials for making these simple lenses!
@Lawman212
4 күн бұрын
Were you exposing directly on Ilford printing paper? Then how do you make positive prints? Do you place the paper negative face to face with an unexposed paper and expose in the darkroom?
@richpence
4 күн бұрын
That’s correct and the most straight forward process, Ilford RC Multigrade paper acts as the negative in camera, then for a positive print in the darkroom the paper is contact printed face to face, and with care and making diagramed notes, you can add dodging and burning, the only challenge is that you cannot see the image, just light on the paper. Another option is to actually enlarge the paper negative. For this size I will need to make a large light back for the camera and Mural print onto the wall. But for small scale it works fine to enlarge a little, such as 35mm paper negatives to a 5x7, medium format to 8x10, and 4x5 to 11x14, add a bunch of contrast and you can get a nice, albeit a little soft image. A slightly quicker option for duplication is to pin the 11x14 paper negative to the wall and light it well, then focus the 11x14 camera on it, one reason I made sure the bellows could go 1:1 macro, then take a new image onto a fresh piece of paper in the film holder, making a positive that is faster to produce and a much reduced chance of dust, which is a major nuisance of contact printing. In a similar style, making a very low contrast and sharp positive via a contact print say onto fiber paper, and then again pinning and photographing to “copy” the image to a more manageable piece of film like a fine grain 4x5 film for darkroom printing. Since it’s an RC paper negative (Fiber paper is a bit sharper with more resolution, but more expensive and harder to work with/ contact print) the 4x5 film would be able to capture most all of the detail achieved from the original negative.
@Lawman212
4 күн бұрын
With regard to vignetting, keep in mind that infinity focus creates the smallest image circle because the front standard is closest to the rear standard at that distance. The closer you are to the subject, the greater the image circle will be. You may experiment with not focussing all the way to infinity and stopping down to bring the picture into focus. I don't know how much extra coverage that might create. Also, be very conscientious with checking that your lens is centered. Any movements will exacerbate vignetting.
@richpence
4 күн бұрын
Thanks for the tips! Yes image centering was actually my biggest issue here, I had started with the lens not centered, which a couple days ago I actually measured and etched the rails so now I start perfectly centered. Stopping down more in general will help, at f22 or more I should be able to get a good 30mm of movement from center safely.
@timothysears6970
4 күн бұрын
What a phenomenal video!
@richpence
4 күн бұрын
Thanks very much for watching!
@Sourouian-Mezzo
4 күн бұрын
first of all great video ! I have a question : do you use the developer for the paper and for the film?
@richpence
4 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching! Yes I am using the same Kodak Dektol in standard 1:2 dilution for both the film and paper.
@thomasboone1356
4 күн бұрын
Great design and nice work very inspiring thank you for sharing
@richpence
4 күн бұрын
Thank you for watching!
@PictorialWhispers
5 күн бұрын
Great job on this unique camera. Really clever design choices.
@richpence
5 күн бұрын
Thank you very much!
@door-hinge
5 күн бұрын
This whole time I'm just waiting for toneh portrait.
@richpence
2 күн бұрын
I have only shot a few portraits with the camera so far. It has an extremely shallow depth of field!
@Bassdudecraft
5 күн бұрын
I am so glad that you made a video on this, I saw your original post on facebook and my jaw dropped! I will be respectfully ripping off the tripod base idea for my ULF camera in the future, but first the small cameras need to be made.
@richpence
5 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching! I’m glad it could be useful!
@FrankTitzeArtShorts
5 күн бұрын
I love your design and the design approaches behind like the by design "integrated" transport box, the simplicity of the tripod and the Arca Swiss rail usages. I am myself in the middle of an own 30x40cm ULF camera build with the following similarities and differences to your path and design: - I sourced several repro, projector, ... lenses (all without shutter) and put them on Linhof and Toyo plates (adapter). (Note I: Toyo is my primary 4x5'' / 9x12cm camera.) (Note II: I started with lenses, as they are the element you can not do yourself.) - I adapted repro camera shutters (75 +90 mm hole) driven by 24V DC. And I have already the key element of an own shutter (125mm hole) following same repro shutter design. Just programmed an SOC shutter steering for those shutters. (Note I: I do not expect to be fast than max 1/30th... but even an 1/8th will be good - an shutter tester build in parallel will show.) (Note II: As the lenses and the shutters are also for use with the Toyo 4x5'' / 9x12cm, I focus at moment my work here) - For the frame of camera I used 20x20mm aluminium system (us.item24.com US page) cut by supplier on my lengths. - The film holders will be also based on that material as frame + fiber glass . Here I still change and advance the design inside the frame. (Note: Seeing the film holder prices and limitations, I try to build those myself) - Ground glass holder is out of same material and uses like you (to be sanded) acrylic plus an Ebay frensel ;-) (Note: sing the same construction like for the film holders, I expect no focal plane difference issue by design) - For the front standard I use the standard Toyo having all free axes moves geared + swing and tilt. (BTW: My reuse approach could have also worked with a Sinar, Arca, Cambo, Linhof, ... front standard) - Aside of the frame holder, will be the bellows the most challenging. I plan a bag bellow design out of artificial leather.and other fabric. - The camera stand on an a normal tripod (an old heavy duty aluminum Gitzo). Notes: - The 30x40cm my design focus on x-ray film (or paper) in that max size. (Note: I want to use the camera also for 24x30cm due to availability of moma x-ray film up to that size and lens availabilities in wide-angle area.) - Lenses with 600mm + reasonable bellows extension for foutdoor is the limit. Outlook: - If this all works fine I consider to use to build / dual-use the 30x40cm for an 50x60cm or 60x60cm together with 800/900mm lenses up to ~ 1:1. But this is far future as being an other beast. - After the nicer/brighter weather and photo season of 2024 I hope to have the 30x40cm ready for next spring. That includes also a transport case - here your design is very clever-- and a scratch free development method for double side coated x-ray film. Here I have ideas but it is to early to say if it will work.
@richpence
5 күн бұрын
Wow, thanks for all the details, it is very nice to read about your build! Using the aluminum extrusion is a good idea, I did similar with the 4x5 camera that I showed in the video, that with then some laser cut black acrylic. I have considered making a couple new enlarger / copy stands out of the same aluminum rail. For the Bag Bellows, I suggest using blackout curtain liner fabric. It is white, and a bit thick but it is sturdy and should be flexible and hold up to the bag bellows movement very well. Then use a simple piece of black cotton for the inside. Leather is very nice, but the fabric may be simpler to work with and a lot of money saved. Is there anywhere that you are posting updates? I'm interested to see how you get along with the film holder construction, my suggestion would be to make that part first, then to design your spring back and exact camera sizes relative to that.
@FrankTitzeArtShorts
5 күн бұрын
@@richpence Good point. Indeed I am thinking since a while about having my construction work posted. But I am not there yet... have not even pictures of my stuff... ;-). But you gave me an other trigger/reason to work on this. I'll keep you updated.
@richpence
5 күн бұрын
@@FrankTitzeArtShorts great! I look forward to seeing more!
@Gregorio416
5 күн бұрын
Awesome job! I saw your post on FB and forgot about the project. I just so happened to chance upon this video while scrolling. I have that same lens, but have only ever used it for 4x5. It’s so cool to see it reach its maximum potential on 11x14 I am VERY excited about the DIY 4x5 video you mentioned towards the end. I had a sort of “d’oh!” moment when you went over the individual components that make up your camera; how had I never thought to do that before? Anyway, nice work! Looking forward to seeing more of what you’re doing +1 to your wife as well. There are many cool projects that do/don’t exist largely due to the support (or lack thereof) of friends and family.
@richpence
5 күн бұрын
Thanks very much for watching! Yes I am very grateful to have a supportive wife and friends! I have been really enjoying the lens, and a few days ago I sat down and etched in all the centering marks and it turns out I have been putting the lens with a slight bit of rise from what I thought was centered, there is plenty of coverage. I was just shooting on my original homemade 4x5 yesterday, testing a diy large format lens I’m working on. And seeing all the places I can improve on the new one has gotten me excited to keep working on it! It will be mainly 3D printed then added onto the base parts I showed. But for those who don’t have a 3D printer I am looking into various online printing companies, and want to keep the price of ordered parts around $60 or less. The ground glass (including a fresnel) will be sourced and bellows will be made from material. And I’m hoping for the camera with ordered 3D prints to still be less than $200.
@RetiredSubmariner.and.VanLifer
5 күн бұрын
Thanks much for this video. I live full time in a camper van, and love to develop my own film, but have not, as of yet attempted to in my van. After watching this, I am confident that it is possible to do so in this small space, with limited water supply and grey water tank capacity. I like using HC-110 developer at a 1 to 31 dilution ratio. Thanks again. This was very informative. 😊
@richpence
5 күн бұрын
Great! I’m glad it can be helpful! I also like HC-110, it is my favorite, but I don’t develop quite enough film fast enough to use a whole bottle so the d-76 is a little more convenient.
@RetiredSubmariner.and.VanLifer
5 күн бұрын
This was fascinating to watch. Your intuitive understanding of camera construction, understanding of how light travels and your ability to source material from just about anywhere make me want to go out and explore this for myself. I currently have both a Sinar and a Graflex 4x5. Thinking about making a hybrid build between both of these cameras with extra features designed into a single unit. So many things to think about. Your post processing skills and add in video explanations were very helpful. Subscribed and liked to assist you achieving 1000 subscribers 😊
@richpence
5 күн бұрын
Thanks so much for watching and for the compliments! I hope you do make or customize your cameras to work well for you, maybe save some money for more lenses or film along the way! I was just using my DIY 4x5 yesterday to test a diy large format lens I’m working on. But I realized that my old camera is not as great as it could be, so I’m looking forward to finishing my next project of the affordable 4x5 camera, so I’m hoping that will be out later this summer!
@shortsonfire79
6 күн бұрын
That was inspiring. Earlier this year I was talking myself into making an 810 in the Chamonix Alpinist style for backpacking. A car-portable easel style rig seems much more attainable for a "first go". Tons of great information and insight here. Utilizing the arca plates is genius: way more attainable than trying to fabricate custom pieces. Great stuff!
@richpence
6 күн бұрын
Awesome! Thanks very much for watching. I hope you try and build your own camera! Maybe try actually just using a box field panting easel, looking at my Wife’s I believe it could be turned into an 8x10. There are several on Amazon for $80-$160, you’d then have a folding box on legs, to reinforce, add arca for movements, bellows, and figuring out how to route and make the spring back. Maybe easier to just do all from scratch.
@stevenwhite921
6 күн бұрын
Nicely done thanks for sharing
@richpence
6 күн бұрын
Thank you for watching!
@egarza9241
6 күн бұрын
What was total to make large format camera?
@richpence
6 күн бұрын
I list many parts and prices in the description, along with showing the screenshots of prices. I spent around $850 USD on the camera, that does not include the lens or the film holders, but everything else. Some money could be saved in several places. The wood was a nice Walnut, but a different cheaper wood like Poplar would work, maybe even some kinda of ply wood or plastic sheets would work. The metal parts can be reduced. I wanted to have as much movement and focusing distance as possible. But for regular focus and movements those pieces could be fewer and smaller.
@glenmorrison8080
6 күн бұрын
I would love to see a few videos of you using this camera in more places, circumstances, etc, and showing your progress learning to get the best photos out of it.
@richpence
6 күн бұрын
I’ll try to do that, thanks!
@brapperdan
7 күн бұрын
You should try some type of graduated ND filter to retain detail in the sky. I’d be interested in the results
@richpence
6 күн бұрын
That’s a good idea, it can be tricky to find filters for such a big filter diameter (95mm) but perhaps one of the big square filter kits makes an adapter to fit.
@brapperdan
6 күн бұрын
@@richpence that’s what I was thinking is just tape a big square one on there or something
@jlGenozzV
7 күн бұрын
for the name I propose: BFC Big Fucking Camera.
@richpence
7 күн бұрын
Haha maybe add Heavy in there somewhere.
@creepysneeze1
8 күн бұрын
Oh no, it's another hyper specific niche of photography for my ADHD to fixate on 😂 well I guess I'd better get to designing one...
@richpence
8 күн бұрын
Haha I’m exactly the same way 😂
@PopTartHeaven
9 күн бұрын
I noticed you shot this in 48fps! Did you also use a 270° shutter speed? If you did shoot this in 48fps did you notice a difference/benefit to the footage?
@richpence
9 күн бұрын
Hey thanks for noticing! I am a bit of a filmmaking nerd on the side. This was shot in 180° 4k 24fps in 12 bit cDNG raw on the Sigma FP (except for one shot accidentally in compressed .mov, you can see the switch to the better footage at 2:24 in the beginning of the video). The reasoning for the 48 fps render is actually to smooth out the various cross fade transitions and zooms into the stills, such as those of the images shot at Zion at 31 minutes. I have found that in the rendering and compression those zooms feel jittery at 24fps. If you go frame by frame you can see that I locked the recorded footage to double every frame (I had to do some trickery to not have the frames blur and interpolate the in-betweens), but that transitions and zooms are advancing smoothly every frame. This is a super picky thing, but I like the results. My camera can shoot higher frame rates, but only at 1080p, which at 12 bit cDNG still looks really good. So I have experimented with shooting 48fps at 360° Which has the interesting effect of a 'smoother' version of the identical motion character of 180° 24fps, with the added bonus of capturing great full motion footage and the option of 2x slow motion with just slightly more motion blur, which in practice still looks good. In fact, you can even implement a frame skip into the 48fps 360 footage to skip every other frame, and it will be identical to 24fps 180.
@PopTartHeaven
9 күн бұрын
@@richpenceOh wow! Thanks for the super in-depth response! That’s actually a very creative and interesting way to fix the jitter of 24p. I’ve tried shooting in 48p on my bmpcc 6k but I can never *quite* get it looking natural so when I saw the 48p on this I was intrigued. I love the look of the footage overall, the CDNG from the fp looks really nice.
@richpence
9 күн бұрын
Thanks very much! I'm very happy with the FP, it's a quirky but affordable and neat camera. The cDNG footage is really great and the only disadvantage is the file size. I can do around and hour 45 minutes of 4k onto my 2tb ssd. Interesting though that every frame is an 8 megapixel dng raw image, so it's cool to be able to pull stills from and works great for timelapse. All I really do for grading is a Color Space Transform based on ArriLog 3 to rec. 709, then just tweak some of the raw settings. Maybe try shooting the 48fps at 360 degree shutter and see how you like that. I enjoyed that it felt very cinematic still in it's motion blur but just that little bit smoother to make it pop.
@PopTartHeaven
9 күн бұрын
@@richpence I’ll definitely give the 360° a go instead and see how I like it. Also woof, that’s a lot of video files. I always shoot Q5 on my pocket 6k so I’m used to getting 4ish hours on 24p using 1TB cards… and I thought *that* took up a lot of storage! I can’t imagine shooting cDNG instead. I have actually started doing a very similar colour workflow. I use a colour space transform to go from BRAW to 709 and then just do minute tweaks from there.
@richpence
9 күн бұрын
What I do for most footage is actually to grade it, in a kind of general way and export it to .mov files and save those. There is some software to compress the raw footage to a much smaller size so I will use that too until I need space.
@terryjacob8169
9 күн бұрын
I look forward to seeing you build the 4x5; I have a hankering to build a 8x10 using your approach.
@richpence
9 күн бұрын
I’d be interested to see it! The use of those off the shelf arca parts really lets you be more imaginative in your design. The integrated legs are my favorite part of my camera, but for an 8x10 the would be tough to fit the lens inside.
@kennethpaulmullinix
10 күн бұрын
New to large format, your video has helped tremendously!
@richpence
10 күн бұрын
Thanks very much! I hope you can build your own camera!
@joystickmusic
10 күн бұрын
It is normal for a large membrane microphone in omni mode to be a bit directional for the high frequencies. The reason is that form the side, the high frequencies roll over the membrane and make it wobble rather than go in and out. The wobble averages the movement of the membrane out a bit. Many houses have a resonance to them, which is exited by traffic (including boats) and pipe lines. Cool video, thanks.
@richpence
10 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching! Yes it does make sense that a microphone with a capsule like this will not be totally perfect as an omni directional, but I am still really happy to have that functionality in my mic collection now, even if it is potentially better used in a bi-directional style. Yes i figured out that it was the resonant frequency of the townhouse block we lived in, with furnaces and air conditioning running. I had just never had a mic sensitive enough in those low frequencies, or low enough in self noise to ever pick it up clearly in recordings.
@adamkencki
10 күн бұрын
nikon and nikor are pronounced like nippon or nipple. almost all english speakers get this wrong
@richpence
10 күн бұрын
It's hard to lose the habits of our accents, haha
@rojer9542
9 күн бұрын
And Nikor is actually spelled Nikkor. 😊
@TomRaneyMaker
10 күн бұрын
Very well done!
@richpence
10 күн бұрын
Thanks very much!
@winheiMR
11 күн бұрын
Diese Methode im Freien für Fotos in absoluter Größe auf Platte zu bannen ist schon recht ambitioniert, sehr anfällig und von vielen starken Faktoren Abhängig, nicht mehr mein Ding. Hast du dir die Kamera aus Teilen zusammengebaut? Recht sperrig und kostspielig.
@richpence
10 күн бұрын
Hallo, vielen Dank für deinen Kommentar! Ich werde versuchen, darauf zu antworten, und bitte um Entschuldigung für eventuelle Missverständnisse. Es gibt Herausforderungen bei der Verwendung von Dunkelkammerpapier und solch großen Formaten in der Fotografie, aber ich habe den Prozess und die Möglichkeiten immer genossen. Die Kamera habe ich teilweise selbst gebaut, zum Beispiel das Holzgehäuse, den Federrücken und die Balgen habe ich selbst hergestellt. Die Auf-/Ab-Bewegung und alle Metallteile habe ich von Amazon bezogen. Ich werde prüfen lassen, ob Untertitel in anderen Sprachen übersetzt werden können und es könnte hilfreich sein, die Videobeschreibung zu übersetzen.
@jacobdipietro375
11 күн бұрын
This is a beautiful build! Look forward to the bellows and 4x5 videos in the future! Thanks for sharing, subscribed!
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Thanks very much for subscribing! I am excited to get those projects out by summers end!
@atruceforbruce5388
11 күн бұрын
I've found some great camera bags at thrift stores too.
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
I have had a little bit of a thrift bug lately! Have been lucky to find some useful stuff!
@kalialexander36
11 күн бұрын
Amazing work! Sourcing machined parts to fit the design is what has always hindered me from building my own camera. Love the information and that you shared all of it. Lovely camera!
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Thanks very much! I hope this can give you the little push to make your own camera! I want to see more handmade cameras out in the world!
@PaulSafford
11 күн бұрын
Very ambitious and ingenious project, what inspired you to go down this rabbit hole? Thanks for making a very entertaining video on it!
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Thanks very much! haha I always worry a long video like this will be very boring, but just hope to be useful for anyone who may be interested in making their own large format camera, hoping to preserve and bring this side of analog photography into the current day. Mainly it started like most analog photographers, being obsessed over gear, wanting that leica or hasselblad x-pan, or large format camera, but being a broke community college art student just discovering analog photo, I wouldn't come close to affording any of these cameras, so I decided to start building them myself. And now that I have learned a bit more about building and about teaching as I work to get my masters of art to teach college photo, I really just want to make the kinds of videos that an 18 your old me would be excited to see, and excited to explore photography further.
@PaulSafford
11 күн бұрын
I admit when I saw the length I almost skipped it in my feed but then I thought if it’s too slow I’ll play it at a faster speed. Glad I clicked the video and I didn’t need to play it at all faster speed - good luck to you, liked and subbed…
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Wow, thanks very much for the compliment! I would not hold it against you to play the video at 1.5x speed! I know I can drone on a bit.
@gpjennett9819
11 күн бұрын
It appears the image circle coverage of your lens is for an 8x10 format. 11x14 is just a bit too large for your lens.
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
I have learned that my lens only comfortably covers 11c14 (450mm circle) with small movements at f22 (where it gets a 495mm circle). So I was a little overzealous with my movements. What I need to do pronto is set up and etch lines in the rails for when the lens is exactly centered as a starting point, then I should be safe (in my shots at Zion the lens was off center to the right in addition to being to much rise)
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
I believe it was a compounding of mistakes on my part. The lens does have a 495mm image circle at f22 which should cover the 450mm 11x14 circle just fine allowing for 20mm of small movement (Where as I shot between f11 and f18) and I was not centered to start, being a little to the right and too aggressive with the rise. My next step is to sit down and etch the rails with marks for knowing when it is perfectly centered to start and to not do too aggressive movements, maybe clipping the ground glass at the corners to check.
@mcroman-superfeat
11 күн бұрын
Amazing Build, and thanks for sharing your knowledge....
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Thank you for watching!
@johnnykarlitch
11 күн бұрын
Respect et admiration. C'est fantastique!
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Merci!
@MrJohnHartman
11 күн бұрын
This looks so good. I'd be very intrested in a video about your process making contact prints from paper negatives
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Thank you! I will see about making a video on that! I have actually made a video going over some more advanced contact printing processes in my Making Large Negatives in the darkroom Video that is already up if you'd like to take a look, it has lots of contact printing in the process.
@choochootraiin
11 күн бұрын
This is insanity!!! Congratulation to this masterpiece of a camera
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Thanks very much! I hope I can inspire others to make their own dream cameras!
@RandomMakingEncounters
11 күн бұрын
Incredible build! Love the problem solving.
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Thanks! That to me is the fun part!
@hippolyte5248
11 күн бұрын
awesome project, awesome video ! this is BALLERS af
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Thanks very much!
@BboyDelirio
11 күн бұрын
Wow!!! That's incredible ❤
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
Thank you for watching!
@MrFilipFabulous
12 күн бұрын
Wow, I can't wait for that 4×5 camera, the only problem is, I cannot 3d print anything, would there be any alternative?
@richpence
12 күн бұрын
Thanks for the comment! That is for sure something I am considering. I will be sharing the off the shelf parts, and the general dimensions and ideas, and a separate video for making bellows. Similar to the 11x14 camera, there is always the possibility of making the parts out of wood, or perhaps some kinds of foam or plastic sheets, or metal frames as I've done myself. The challenge there, again similar to the 11x14 camera, is that without knowing exact tools. materials, and skills folks have, it will not be relevant make super specific dimensions and drawings to share. I already have the "problem" that people are interested in ordering cameras from me or wanting to get 'plans' to build the exact cameras that I design, but I simply do not have the time right now to become a camera production company (haha maybe some day) And that is where 3d printing ends up being really useful. However, to answer your concern, I am going o include and take advantage of the large array of 3D printing outsourcing options. There are reputable sites now where you can easily upload a pre-designed 3d file and they will give you an instant price, and from what I have tested so far, I am hoping to get the required parts for the camera to ring up as a combined $40-60 using these. My goal is for someone to be able to build such a camera with ordered parts for $200 total and have a great working camera (the only other parts needed would be a lens and film holders, which are quite commonly available) Note as well that to my knowledge the most affordable new 4x5 camera on the market, the very cool intrepid 4x5 is $390. Which for that price, you could buy a decent 3d printer for $150, and then make yourself a couple 4x5 cameras. Also, many local colleges and public libraries have 3d printers on site for very good prices. So the idea is that, if someone wants to just go from the general ideas and structure, then they should totally go for it and make their own unique design to fit the standard parts, and I will explain the ways to do that in my video. But if someone wants the exact camera and fitted bellows that I am designing and making, then they can get the 3d files and bellows design files and order / print the parts, and then make the bellows by hand (this saves tons of money). Anyway sorry for the long reply, and I appreciate your comment!
@marcelryser
12 күн бұрын
Trank you very much, beautiful work 👍
@richpence
12 күн бұрын
Thank you for watching!
@clabart
12 күн бұрын
Congratulations on the realisation of the optical bench! Looks like you're back in 1800! I have no experience of optical bench with large format film, but only with Hasselblad 500CM. I just remember that I got to see up close an optical bench (I don't remember if Linhof or Sinar or another brand) of a friend of mine in his photo studio. Impressive to notice the great detail and dynamics of the shadowed parts of your photos. For the filter, instead of having it internally, why not have a slide on the front optics so that you can also use other filters, red or blue? About the fall of light at the edges depends on the optics? For a larger format print than film how do you do it? Do you digitise the negative and then print on plotter? Anyway my compliments for the construction.
@richpence
12 күн бұрын
Thanks very much! I will try and answer your questions. For the filter, I worked with what I had available. I knew I would be using darkroom photographic paper as my negatives, so I had to use that specific filter type. Some also use regular yellow or orange filters for the film, but the issue is the size of my les. The Filter thread is 95mm, a odd and very large size, so filters are hard to find, and when you do find them, they are extremely expensive. My solution worked for what I need the camera to do, and the filter is always easy to remove in just a minute, and the filter is the exact best kind in my opinion for the negatives I am making. The paper itself is darkroom paper, so it is actually designed to not be sensitive to RED light at all, and inside of a camera it is extra sensitive to blue and UV light, so the filter is helpful. The filter will also work quite well on black and white film to darken a blue sky slightly. I would only really need to remove it for shooting color film or paper. Yes the lens light falloff is a matter of the lens I have, and giving too much movement up to see the mountains level. If the lens were to be centered and the whole camera tilted up it would cover the whole image. For prints I still make them in the darkroom! I sandwich a new sheet of paper under the face down negative and use an enlarger to shine light through the negative. This process is called "Contact Printing". If you look at my video "Making Analog Alternative Process Negatives in the Darkroom: Ortho Litho Film for Cyanotypes" You can see my darkroom and several versions of contact printing in action.
@clabart
11 күн бұрын
@@richpence Thanks for the reply. I know very well that square filters for large diameter lenses are expensive! On the other hand they have the convenience of removing or inserting without having to dismantle the optics. I have no experience with prints from very large format negatives but only 120 from Hasselblad. Yes, I had heard of the contact printing technique, but if they ask you, for an exhibition or for home furnishings, for a larger print than the negative, what do you do? I was curious to know having seen your very high quality negative from which, for example, a 2 m x 2 m print can be produced. I don't think there are enlargers for that type of prints for which the only solution is digital scanning and sending the file to a service. I watch the video of your darkroom
@richpence
11 күн бұрын
For the filter, Since I do not currently have any traditional film (Regular ilford hp5 is available in 11x14 sheets but it is $375 for 25 sheets), and do not plan to make any color negatives, so having the filter live inside the camera actually makes shooting more convenient. Good question about print size. My first response would be to simply stand firm on keeping the size the way it is. I don't have any issues with digital technologies, I use them a lot and of course did make high resolution scans for this video, but for my artwork I tent to want it to stay within what is possible with analog process. To me the direct connection between the end print, and the cameras on location is important. If I absolutely had to enlarge the negatives further, there are a few options. 1. I could turn this 11x14 camera into an enlarger by making a large light source and negative holder that attaches to the back of the camera, which stays upright and points at the wall. Then a large roll of darkroom paper is cut and a large print made on the wall, this is called mural printing and has been used to make extremely large darkroom prints. Another options would be to make a good contact print, then to take a high resolution image of it onto 4x5 film, or some other format that has more common enlargers, then make bigger prints traditionally.
@clabart
11 күн бұрын
@@richpence I saw the video of your work in the darkroom. The orthochromatic technique is interesting. As well as pointing the enlarger towards the wall for larger format prints, but are there sensitive large format papers? In 1975 I dabbled in b/w printing with the Durst enlarger but then gave up due to lack of time.
@richpence
10 күн бұрын
@@clabart There are still many large format papers available in both color and black and white. Cut sheets go up in size to 30 inches x 40 inches (75cm x 100cm) and rolls are available in a variety of widths, the biggest being 56 inches wide (142cm), normally with 100 foot lengths (30 meters)
@hughysaint4178
12 күн бұрын
Yuo are brilliant, hats off
@richpence
12 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@huf67
12 күн бұрын
Good video btw I can't believe your wife let you record that extra footage without ironing your shirt first. 👔
@richpence
12 күн бұрын
Haha it is just a studio work shirt!
@huf67
12 күн бұрын
@@richpence ... I was very impressed with the building of you camera. Definitely looking forward to what you come up with for your 4x5 version. Looking to get into large format myself.
@richpence
12 күн бұрын
@@huf67 Stay tuned! I am able to be most productive on video projects in the summer. Right now I am working on a design for a super simple lens that can be made from new parts and will work for 4x5 cameras, that will come out close to tandem with the 4x5 build.
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