Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and coach who specialises in mental training, mindset, finding flow, and fear management. Her company, Strong Mind, offers coaching and online courses in mental training.
Amazing how many of the photos from your life that made it in to this video was the second frame on a roll of Portra 400 !
@Will-kt5jk
18 күн бұрын
As a taller guy, I like working through boulder problems with smaller climbers as I find we both learn something. I’m still far weaker at controlling swings & explosive moves from tight spaces than my shorter climber friends - there’s rarely anything indoor set to practice the cut-loose moves they’re able to do, when my feet are still on the wall. I’ve definitely improved my high feet when working problems with them & spotting other creative options. ^the above works both ways - we usually find something to either work around a long reach/span/bridge, or (for the climb that works better for shorter people) to generate more tension, or release lanky limbs fro a tight spot.
@deminmax
19 күн бұрын
You are so awesome! :) Could you please make a video on step by step guide on managing fear? I’d love to watch that!
@deminmax
19 күн бұрын
And chapters in the video might have been helpfull
@StrongMindClimbing
16 күн бұрын
Hi. So, this is much too big a question for a KZitem video, and it is basically what our whole business runs off helping people with. That would be like asking Lattice Training to create a step-by-step KZitem video explaining how each of us should get stronger and fitter. We can talk about small parts of that process, but if you really want to work on this you would need to join one of our programs or get coaching through us 😊
@bowloflinguinepasta4404
19 күн бұрын
Any chance you`ll also make a video for climbers who struggle with keeping their motivation up? Taking just a one week break sometimes feels I'm starting from the beginning and then the fun of climbing takes a big toll. But I loves this video, there were a lot of helpful tips! Thank you!!
@StrongMindClimbing
16 күн бұрын
Our performance hacks course is perfect for climbers struggling with motivation. Check out this webinar to learn more 😊 bit.ly/learnwithhazel
@sarahwinters5321
19 күн бұрын
Thanks for talking about how much hormones and your menstrual cycle affects your physical and mental game. I'm starting to find my rhythm in relation to mine. We need to share and talk about this more 😊😊
@DpennaS
20 күн бұрын
Love the vid!! Awesome content and super essencial I climb for fun here in Brazil, but I have a huge problemn when I lead climb, because of fear management. Do you have any tips? One more time, great vid ❤
@StrongMindClimbing
16 күн бұрын
we'll probably have some tip videos coming soon but the process of fear management in climbing is BIG which is what our company and courses are all about 😊
@MrChristof1234567890
20 күн бұрын
Thank you for such and honest and genuinely vulnerable look at your climbing. As someone stuck right in that line of being a good casual climber and training to break into better grades, it’s been difficult to hear this from my peers. It’s super excited to hear things I’ve been doing well, but also to have this video challenge things that I thought I was doing well. I got a lil defensive at times but love that kind of challenge to my structure. Thank you :)
@StrongMindClimbing
20 күн бұрын
thanks for the honesty! Feeling a bit uncomfortable is a sign that a sore spot has been hit and I bet there is some interesting stuff for you to explore there
@ianphillips898
20 күн бұрын
Hazel, you are an inspiration to thoughtful climbers of any age, any gender I reckon. Your sensitive engagement with climbing as a pure, holistic form of human expression is just wonderful. As a 56 year old I still think of you as a young lady but there’s some wisdom beyond your years in there. 😁 I’m about to share your vid with my 23 year old, also climber daughter. She’ll love it. Thanks.
@StrongMindClimbing
20 күн бұрын
Thanks for these kind words!
@dsmeier6270
20 күн бұрын
The period thing is such a big deal
@ramziventures
20 күн бұрын
Thank you for this great content! How did you manage fear?
@StrongMindClimbing
20 күн бұрын
Ha! This is way too big a question for a KZitem comment. I created a whole online course on fear management for climbing called the Strong Mind course. It took me 7 years of coaching and study to feel equipped to create it.
@ramziventures
19 күн бұрын
@@StrongMindClimbing I’ll check it out. Thank you for your contribution to this wonderful climbing world 🙏🏽
@sean6387
21 күн бұрын
I'm sure the birth of your baby will have a profound impact but won't change all of the genuinely valuable advice you kindly imparted here, Hazel. In a few weeks' time, I'll be sixty. I still climb twice a week but in younger days my climbing was less about the actual pleasure of movement and more about the outcome. Remember to enjoy yourself, enjoy using your mind and body, and have fun. Achieving your potential is fantastic, but achieving while having a good time is the cherry on top in my view. Start early!
@biggertigger
21 күн бұрын
So honest, so awesome and so helpful. Thank you.
@romanstinkt
21 күн бұрын
Awesome seeing you in your own channel!(:
@Eivind91sa
21 күн бұрын
As someone who started bouldering 4 weeks ago, watching these kinds of videos is super interesting! :)
@StrongMindClimbing
21 күн бұрын
great! you can learn from my 'mistakes' 😂
@sean6387
21 күн бұрын
You are going to have a great life if you continue.
@Eivind91sa
21 күн бұрын
I'm completely hooked! I am working towards completing my first 4b/4c i think. Not quite sure how my gym grades them, but looking at their overview it sounds about right. Trying to be there 2-3 times per week, 1h each. Haven't had this much fun in years, honestly. Started looking at incorporating a bit of dynamic climbing, as I heard that was a good thing for beginners (Emil Abrahamsen recommends so in one of his videos).
@nerdonarope
21 күн бұрын
Really looking forward to your "fear of falling" course on Blueprint!
@Blujeanbb_
21 күн бұрын
Fantastic insight in this video! I learned a lot and I’m excited to delve a little deeper into some of the concepts to become a better climber. Some tips for this great new channel: - Update the “more info” button on the channel homepage to include your name and website - Start with an introduction in the video as not everyone knows what a wonderfully accomplished professional you are. I recognized you from Josh’s video about fear mgmt and clicked right away! Keep up the fantastic work!
@StrongMindClimbing
21 күн бұрын
thanks - we're still new to the youtube game!
@urabagofcells2228
21 күн бұрын
It's so clear you see the gap in climbing content on youtube. Thank you!! *Such good storytelling. Please keep this up and stay away from the flashy trends or be led by what the algorithms and viewer data tells you. We love you!
@StrongMindClimbing
21 күн бұрын
Thanks! It's always a balance, as we need to 'play the game' to some extent to get the views, but don't worry, we want to make sure the content is aligned with our values and isn't just adding to the noise. Thanks for watching!
@captaincaveman5156
22 күн бұрын
Really enjoyed this. Also, would you do a collab with the Wide Boyz? I was intrigued when you mentioned crack climbing.
@StrongMindClimbing
21 күн бұрын
yes will probably will at some point!
@0-Will-0
Ай бұрын
I’m 6’3 and my regular climbing partner is my daughter who is 11. We regularly do the same problems and are always seeing height issues for her. I was excited to watch this with her and thank you for uploading, looking forward to future videos from you both.
@susangriggs9709
2 ай бұрын
Thank you for posting this! So helpful and motivating!
@donmcconnell896
2 ай бұрын
I enjoy watching other short climbers at my local gym, especially the ones that are much better than me! So much to learn from their technique and where to apply strength or dynamic movement. Though it is a bit galling when my tall mates just reach past the crux move! 🤨
@sean6387
2 ай бұрын
I climb indoors in Japan and the setting is definitely geared towards climbers who are less tall, unsurprisingly. This means there are fewer reach-dependent problems and really boosts the confidence of younger, shorter and female climbers. Hence, greater participation and achievement.
@costecoste8975
2 ай бұрын
i just start climbing this year, and i really love it. and itch time I strugle on a route (indoor) because it's too "morpho" i remind myself that ai mori (one of the best climber in the world) is 1M55 just like me. so the route isn't the problem i just need to imrpove my climbing and it will not be "morpho" anymore ! and mini hand are a big advantage in the gym i think when i see big guy struggle to put their two hands on the same hold it's quite esay for me .
@celinepires6353
2 ай бұрын
Maybe we should start our own club of short climbers around the world :D we could spread short friendly beta 😂
@jaf67236
2 ай бұрын
As a shorst climber (159 cm) I don't like the moments where some person higher than me tries to sell me some betas that wouldn't work for me even if the suggestion is said with a good will. As if they'd knew better what is best for me. I got to the moment when automatically I just ignore those suggestions like they're never said. I only accept them from my climbing instructor or my boyfriend (who is well tall but got to know me in that matter). There are still many moves I need to work out like high feet steps or dynamic moves but sometimes that gets me into the bad mindset when I see holds just above my head but cannot reach them statically as they are even 5 cm away on my full reach and there are no holds or steps I can help myself with. During the training I feel sometimes like giving 120% of myself whereas others just train as normal without any problems. But it is just the very beggining on my climbing journey as I am at 6c stage and currently I am aware that some 6cs can be 7as for me whereas for someone taller can be easy. Hopefully someday the trainings would pay off. Sometimes the change is noticeable that gives me much satisfaction. Being short I think means working more on the psycho than usually. Being able to do dynos where other just reach the holds.
@StrongMindClimbing
2 ай бұрын
Yes, that unsolicited beta from someone not your height and probably not as good a climber as you is very annoying! 😂
@user-dg9ti5gq4e
2 ай бұрын
excellent first video.
@StrongMindClimbing
2 ай бұрын
thank you!
@maxblair3317
2 ай бұрын
My current project in Squamish involves a long reach to get established into a crack, and I'm missing maybe 2cm of reach to make that move like most people do. I've had to resort to really working this section and finding an alternative beta, which turned out to be harder for me than the actual crux of the route 😂 I feel like this section gave me even more motivation to work the route and once it goes down I'll be even prouder. I keep telling myself "if it were easier it wouldn't be as worthy a challenge!"
@StrongMindClimbing
2 ай бұрын
that's a great mindset!
@mihapribosic9374
2 ай бұрын
I am tall and when my short climbing partners comment on my reach I propose a thought experiment: I will give you 10 cm but it comes with 10 kilograms. They stop commenting and start climbing.
@StrongMindClimbing
2 ай бұрын
this is true 😂 but there will always be a person taller and lighter than you too
@climblikeagirl
2 ай бұрын
This video is so spot on! I'm very short climber and it describes my struggles so well. Indeed, indoor grades can be quite meaningless for me and I had to actively work on my mindset not to get discouraged if I struggle on the route that is supposed be my easy flash grade. Overall overcoming the mindset problems took some years for me and I'm still falling into the mindset traps described in the video. What I find really helpful is to climb with other short people, because then at least we can solve things together. Unfortunately, the harder I climb the fewer short people around me. What is my main issue is that I often feel misunderstood by taller climbers and sometimes I feel like I don't belong to the community. There were cases on the crag that someone commented on the crag about "what is she even doing here" when I was working on the first move that most of people find easy. For me it was harder than the crux of the route, but for people it seemed that I shouldn't even attempt it, since I cannot do that one easily. So I would ask all taller climbers to not make such comments.
@izaskrjanec7174
2 ай бұрын
Thank you for this video! As a (very) short climber of 160 cm (5 ft 2) I have struggled and am struggling still. This is especially true in the gyms where most of the routes are set by taller male routesetters (but not all!!). I’m also the shortest climber in my climbing group. The struggle is real 😅 But on the rock it’s different. I love being creative with high foot placement.
@tydowner2731
2 ай бұрын
This was great! I’ve never heard someone put into words what I’ve been learning since I started! I always thought of climbs as a puzzle for me to problem solve and the problem is unique to the person.
@chrissmithdoe2100
2 ай бұрын
I'm an average height male but also often find my own beta for routes. E.g. i remember a route where the guidebook said the crux section needed a big dynamic move but I quickly found a tiny intermediate that you can use to break it into smaller moves, which to me felt easier, while the big move might feel natural to someone maybe with more power from a modern bouldering background. choose your own adventure, dontchaknow
@Rafungilo
2 ай бұрын
I have tall climbers try to follow my leads and they pften havevto do different moves, because my short beta didnt work for them. They often find a way that "looks" easier for everyone but its actually just easier for them, itd be harder for me. Just like my beta was harder for them. Im also not suuuuuper short, im 5 7
@MrNicolas411
2 ай бұрын
lots of good points here...always interesting to see topics about the height of climbers...I've seen a lot of videos about shorter and taller climbers (I'm short myself) there are certainly advantagesas you say yourself... there are also many climbs that I simply ignore because I know that due to my height it is harder or even sometimes impossible... especially indoor many disadvantages from my experience.But almost no one talks about the ape index, which I personally think plays a major role...example...someone of 1m70 with a + 10 ape index compared to someone of 1m75 with a - 5 ape index...the 1m70 climber is then seen as the short climber but has more reach and is lighter or the 1m15 climber...ape index matters a lot,all the 'short climbers' in comps have a positive ape index
@chrissmithdoe2100
2 ай бұрын
am I wrong in thinking that almost all the best female climbers are quite short? And that very few top level female climbers are tall?
@StrongMindClimbing
2 ай бұрын
a lot of the better female climbers are short yes or at least medium height, a few are taller like Mathilda Soderlund, Mina Mason, Katy Whittaker, Caro Ciavaldini - I know more of the outdoor climbers than competitors.
@chrissmithdoe2100
2 ай бұрын
@@StrongMindClimbing cool! only knew about Mathilda Solderlund being tall.
@jjimena263
2 ай бұрын
Super hyped for this KZitem Channel!!!
@user-bx4zq7fx7e
2 ай бұрын
"get better at climbing and don't worry"
@urabagofcells2228
2 ай бұрын
BEST EDUCATIONAL CLIMBING VIDEO IVE EVER WATCHED.
@urabagofcells2228
2 ай бұрын
I think you'd be SO good at making a video on mini on-sighting mindset. Like going to the crag or gym alone and beleiveing you can do a move you've never seen, not matter the level/grade. So often my friends and I cant do someting until we see others do it. Which is the benefit of social climbing but also sad for me to realise (in terms of faith in myself).
@urabagofcells2228
2 ай бұрын
also beautiful to see you in a relationship where your partner ISNT one of those people who tell you youre too short (wff) and can intimately understand your exprience
@StrongMindClimbing
2 ай бұрын
@@urabagofcells2228 nice idea!
@turkish3001
2 ай бұрын
An important topic for climbing wasted in this video though. Not much content, gives nothing.
@zoaxanthellae
2 ай бұрын
I disagree, this is all good and uncomplicated advice for short climbers, and I see a lot of people causing themselves grief by not following it (including my past self!)
@Shakespearespaniel
2 ай бұрын
-5 ape index here [waves]. This is all useful, but there's a sizeable difference between being a short climber and being a climber with a pitiful wingspan. I'm jealous of other 'short climbers' who have great reach, or even a neutral ape index (like Hazel).
@StrongMindClimbing
2 ай бұрын
there will always be people who are 'luckier' than us or have different natural strengths and weaknesses; the point is to let go of that and focus on our own experience.
@Kova4a
20 күн бұрын
That's nothing. I have -11 ape index. This forced me to become a lot more dynamic as I progressed through the grades. "Luckily", my pretty small hands definitely allow me to get more power on certain holds or to occasionally fit another finger like Hazel in the video. Also, all the training for explosive power helped me surpass a lot of people I am climbing with who have far better reach
@osrictentaqclesmin
2 ай бұрын
Excellent video. Thank you. 5’7” male. Light. Love crimps. Find indoor boulder grades idiotic and outdoor sport grades so varied. We should expect that. I find setting my own board or spray wall climbs far more efficient for training hit find I can find funky beta outdoors with intermediates and footholds such that the climb becomes incomparable to the climb my 6’2” friend just did on the same quick drawers lol
@zoaxanthellae
2 ай бұрын
The average setter is an inch or two taller than you, unless you have incredibly short arms that's just not enough difference to matter
@sageandtheraven
2 ай бұрын
Thanks for making this video. I'm not a particularly short climber but, as a woman of average height (5'6ish), I've still found some routes harder than for the 'average height man'. Not to mention the comment that '...there's no such thing as a reach problem!' Hah! But my flexibility has often helped give me a different sort of advantage. Also, some of the best climbers I know (of either sex) are short, and especially advantaged if they have a positive ape index. (I don't 😢). If you've ever watched arboreal apes, you'll see why! 😅 Also, I learned early on that focussing on developing good footwork was one of the best ways to improve my climbing, rather than just training for more upper body strength. Thanks again - I look forward to more thought-provoking videos.
@StrongMindClimbing
2 ай бұрын
yeah totally agree! I (Hazel) have a 0 ape index which I always thought was a bit of a shame 😂 but we have to work with what we have
@sageandtheraven
2 ай бұрын
@@StrongMindClimbing Exactly! And how we view what we have makes all the difference, as you clearly know! 😉
@BunnyRaptor
2 ай бұрын
Being short and light is awesome. The only place I get shut down is poorly set indoor climbs. Mother Nature tends to make intermediates, even if they are crappy.
@jihaeshin4026
2 ай бұрын
Exactly this is what I have been realizing. And I do get psyched to figure out my own way of climbing. Thanks so much Hazel for sharing your thoughts and genuine opinions, I am sure it means a lot to many people :)
@constanceelaine3909
2 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for this video. I am short and older (60+) and accepting my differences has been a journey. I felt really validated in seeing you both address the challenges all 'shories' face. Thank you ❤️
@PB-sk9jn
2 ай бұрын
The comment that outdoors you can fill in with alternate feet and features, but not indoors is very much spot on. Especially when the indoor wall itself does not have features (outside the bolt ons).
@jhy8191
2 ай бұрын
I have an 11th tip - find a climbing partner of similar height if you can! I climb with a friend who is close to my height at 5'2" (he's only 4" taller than me) and it makes a huge difference in terms of sharing beta and overall understanding of movement.
@StrongMindClimbing
2 ай бұрын
yep I (Hazel) love it when I can climb with someone my height although it hardly ever happens.
@katerakelly2785
2 ай бұрын
Great content and filming - also appreciated the humorous bits :) I agree that as short climbers we're one step ahead with realizing the grades don't mean that much!
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