Thanks, for my location and my sample of a Quark, it required a lot of blue shifting to come on band, so my dial was 2 clicks away from maximum counter clockwise. There's no universal value for everyone. Each sample is different. You have to go through all 11 setting options to see which provides the best on-band contrast as you red and blue shift to find where the central wavelength 656nm is.
@BA-cn3rk
Ай бұрын
A very helpful tutorial that I will be using the steps to follow. I just, for the life of me, can't understand why some people have to have music playing in the background while you're talking, especially the kind that you were playing. It is SOOO distracting !!!
@malsYT
Ай бұрын
Thanks
@nikostriantopoulos9900
4 ай бұрын
Nice job! Thanks!
@malsYT
4 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@astrodysseus
4 ай бұрын
Good but your flat is very dependent of your (non homogeneous) source of light, that's why as soon as you move from where you took your flat, the flat doesn't really work (e.g. 6:00 major gradients on the right).
@NetlistPCB
6 ай бұрын
Is she one of those who took the jab?
@mickford9383
8 ай бұрын
Such a great video with easily explained processes. Thank you so much for this.
@malsYT
8 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@RichNH
8 ай бұрын
Wow, thanks!
@malsYT
8 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@paulblackman4135
10 ай бұрын
I am so pleased to have found your tutorial. Very clear instructions have helped me immensely in my solar imaging. Thank you!
@malsYT
10 ай бұрын
Thanks, glad to help!
@fxnzk
11 ай бұрын
Im new to solar imaging, and I couldn't have asked for a better tutorial. Thank you very much for putting all the things together so well.
@malsYT
11 ай бұрын
Thanks, glad it helped, check out my newer ones for more!
@MrGp3po
11 ай бұрын
Great informative video. Your Or-ee-on pronunciation threw me. I use Orion...Or-I-On. ;)
@malsYT
11 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@ToniLixSim
Жыл бұрын
hahahha this is adding texture is not a real sun :D wtf u do not need to lie ur self or people
@safinsd6612
Жыл бұрын
I love this processing video and your capture video kzitem.info/news/bejne/rm2ouYOOkIN1jYI. I like the pace of the capture video, but it's a bit challenging to follow all of your actions in this processing video even though I'm fairly familiar with Photoshop. Would be nice to see a slightly slower version.
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
Thanks! KZitem allows you to run it at slower playback BTW!
@safinsd6612
Жыл бұрын
@malsYT Thanks! I didn't know that. So many YT tutorials make me sleepy - not yours! You solved 2 problems for me: identifying a workflow and how to stack/process. Solar is so different from DSO imaging.
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
@@safinsd6612 No worries, glad to help!
@johndeluca230
Жыл бұрын
Wow! Just what I needed to see. Great production values, well documented and well spoken, and hugely informative. A great help to me as I am starting out in solar astrophotography.
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
Thanks, glad it helps!
@jmm3194
Жыл бұрын
Hi, thanks for the video. The astrophotography channel AZASTROGUY concurs with you in that 16 bit doesnot offer great advantage, but he clearly states that recording in SER format is much better than AVI. Do you have any comment in that sense ? . thx
@ShevillMathers
Жыл бұрын
Excellent series-just what I need, however, I wish Photoshop had a slider to eliminate background ‘noise’ in the form of that noise you call music. Must be a generation thing, but music shadowing narration is a bad mix.
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
Thanks, noted!
@ShevillMathers
Жыл бұрын
@@malsYT I hope you take it as a positive comment, I fully appeciate you and othes the time and effort you put in to your presentatios, but I feel that it is only by making comments that you can possibly improve your presentations in a positive way. I am a Pom living inOz, and I must confess I find the USA way of speaking hard to understand at times, just as much as you would us Poms. I have made the same comments on others similar presentations too in the hopes of better presentations. I used to teach medica imaging to medical staff and my diction had to be spot on to a wide audience. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
@@ShevillMathers yessir, no worries!
@newbee1016
Жыл бұрын
An other great video, I think that this one will be played over again a few times, I suppose I can bring the video up on my iPad and follow along that way. But first I have to get the data to work with. Cheers Robert
@newbee1016
Жыл бұрын
Hi Marty, I stumbled on this video while looking for videos on solar capture and processing, and I must say that this video is one of the best I have seen. I will put it my astro video folder for future reference. I have the coronado PST40 and just starting to get some data. I have a question, with the PST will putting the lenes cap on be okay for taking darks? because I was wondering if there as a different way of taking darks with a dedicated solar scope. Cheers Robert Aust'
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
Hi, thanks! Darks are not necessary. Flats generally are though. Capping your PST won't help with it. To do a flat with a PST I would suggest an opaque cereal bag. I have updated videos that are newer than this video that cover this topic more in depth and show how it works, take a look!
@newbee1016
Жыл бұрын
@@malsYT Okay, thanks for the reply, I will check the others out. Now it has turned cloudy just when I want to get some images, good chance to study up on the different acquisition and processing programs. Cheers Robert
@astrophoto2169
Жыл бұрын
Can anyone advise how you add a manual placement points like this, i tried click and drag, shift click drag, ctrl, alt, all sorts but have to go one by one.
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
Hi, I just click really fast while moving the mouse. It's not necessary though, you can just use the auto-placement button on the left to handle this. It works the same. I highly recommend you look at my two latest videos that are more recent than this particular one to see how I'm using the software in a more simple way.
@woody5109
Жыл бұрын
Impressive
@ericriley9706
Жыл бұрын
Why when i create my master flat does it turn my entire disk very dark? The video for the flat is adequately illuminated but when I create the flat it is very dark..
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
Your flat exposure and disc exposure histograms should be very close, if your disc is much darker it's removing more. I suggest a histogram fill of 65~72% range for discs for the flat and the disc.
@nancyricigliano19
Жыл бұрын
Great tutorial, I enjoyed your talk with AOS this afternoon
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
Thanks! Clear skies!
@ebrahemmh
Жыл бұрын
When taking flats do you move your telescope to the center of the sun? Or it doesn't matter where you put your telescope? Thanks
@malsYT
Жыл бұрын
Hi, during the minimum, yes you can use the center of the disc for this. During the maximum you will be hard pressed to find a place that has no active region so that there's no patches from plages, spots, etc involved, in that case, you just use any area that you can that has no features in the FOV that change the brightness/darkness when defocused (such as an intensely bright plage).
@MINTARKA101
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks very much for a great video. I’ve learned so much! Question….how do you handle sunspots? I’m finding that they turn white when I blend the prominence layer. Any tips on this would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Hi, thanks, check out my other tutorial that does not use inverted display for a more natural presentation: kzitem.info/news/bejne/s4CssHmlj4Vhooo
@MINTARKA101
2 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT Super, thanks so much for the newer video. I’ll give this a go. I truly appreciate it!
@hawkspace
2 жыл бұрын
I just found this video. Great job! I have an Astrobin page 'Astrohawk' and do a lot of solar. I'm using a .3 A solar spectrum filter - 100mm refractor - ERF - FLIR usb3 camera. I have a big problem getting both surface and proms at the same time without using gamma. I seem to be missing something. Any ideas? Thanks
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Hi, thanks! In this video I explain exposure so that you get both in the same shot via the data and signal to noise ratio allowing you to lift the proms from shadow data. Expose the disc as brightly as you can without clipping anything (difficult with plages and active flare activity), you may not see the proms, but they're there in the shadow data along with the spicule limb. You can then lift them in post with a curve adjustment. I show this entire process in this video. Gamma is purely software. Whatever you do with gamma in FireCapture/SharpCap can be done with the same data without gamma and adjust it later in post.
@hawkspace
2 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT Thanks for the response. First I made sure there were actually some proms to be brought out (overexposed) then I backed off to just below clipping but were unable to bring in the proms with curves. I use sharp cap and autostakkert. Today I'll try firecapture. Although I don't think that should make a difference. Thanks
@federicobonino7022
2 жыл бұрын
Excellent Great video Thank you very much !!!
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@dandadrumman
2 жыл бұрын
I accidentally found an interesting adjustment to blending the prom. *This is with the histogram inverted in ImPPG per another tutorial* My prom image had a lot of weird artifacts and I was trying to resize my prom image and I couldn't get it to line up and look good. So I was randomly trying different blending modes. I found "lighten" popped the disk and proms to a nice bright place. Then I took the surface image and copied it, put it over the prom layer and used a layer mask to paint the proms back in. So far so good.
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Here's my updated tutorial to avoid having to do any of that, no double exposures, etc, just image to get everything in one shot and process up the proms: kzitem.info/news/bejne/s4CssHmlj4Vhooo
@dougdavies7638
2 жыл бұрын
Hi Marty. Great video!!! Thank you!! Just wondering what software package you use to stack the images and load the flats. Very new to this and don't know how to combine both solar images and flats in the stacking process. If you could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. Doug
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Hi Doug, thanks, I do the acquisition in FireCapture with real time flat overlay so I can see what the product will be (no guess work). Autostakkert!3 is the software I'm using to align & stack the frames for lucky imaging. All free software.
@dougdavies7638
2 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT Thanks Marty. Will check out Autostakkert 3!
@RichardKCollins
2 жыл бұрын
At least save in a lossless format, so that you can collaborate, compare, calibrate and cooperate with others. Simple rule - NEVER use JPEG. None of the pixel values are the same as the uncompressed raw image. Check it. Save to jpg, save to lossless format, read them both with a program that can read pixels, then compare.
@RayTracingRevolution
2 жыл бұрын
Is there any specific reason to target 80-90% histogram? Good video
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Hi, you could go for more, you could go for less. It depends on the subject. Right now in active regions there are flares often, and sometimes ellerman bombs near spots, these add intensely white spots which will fool your histogram that looks at the entire FOV and can influence exposure to be lower on everything else. I suggest targeting somewhere in the 70's to 80's really tops for flat field purposes and so that you do not over-expose plage areas. You'll see what I mean when you sharpen a brighter plage and it instantly goes nearly all white--this was due to over-exposure and heavy contrast/sharpening routines.
@redabdab
2 жыл бұрын
This is super helpful! Amazing video. I have a Quark Chromosphere on order so this will really get me up and running. Thank you!!
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@redabdab
2 жыл бұрын
Great tutorial! Thanks. I'm interested to see that in AS! you have so many align points. I was under the impression that you should aim for 4-500 max. But you have thousands. Also, I always have the Image Stabilisation set to 'expand' rather that 'cropped' - can you explain why you chose 'cropped'? Thanks
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Hi, local alignment points are how you lucky image, theres no logic to use less in this application. Each box is stitched together at the end as a mosaic. If you use less you will include more data that potentially had worse contrast which is how it weights the data related to seeing. I crop the result because theres no use keeping the artifact edges that couldn't be aligned, you crop that out anyway so its just workflow reduction.
@Nick-we7lf
2 жыл бұрын
"O" rion ???? SERIOUSLY ????? OMG !!!😂🤣🤣🤣
@slapastronomy8646
2 жыл бұрын
Outstanding video. I always enjoy your images.
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@Mr_Tim
2 жыл бұрын
Amazing video Marty! Thx for sharing (not sure you are still checking that space though ;-) )
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks; I still check!
@Mr_Tim
2 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT great! More videos to come? ;-)
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
I have more videos that are newer that produce disc and limb images from a single exposure and the results are the natural look, not the inverted look: kzitem.info/news/bejne/rm2ouYOOkIN1jYI kzitem.info/news/bejne/s4CssHmlj4Vhooo
@Mr_Tim
2 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT how could I have missed those… thanks so much Marty!!! Looking forward to trying this!
@rray60
2 жыл бұрын
Great set of videos you have done! I stumbled onto them looking for information about flat field generation in smaller FOV scopes (80mm) and found that you were a great source of information about solar imaging in general.
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@dschenk952
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video, Just started solar work a month ago and I keep coming back to this video for reference as I have all the tools you use on my PC. You mentioned a filter around 7:30, could you expand on the filter you're talking about briefly, please. I'm using an ASI120MM camera right now as I am working on getting some basics down first, such as focusing my SolarMax II 60MM with it's "clunky" focuser, but I'm thinking of stepping up to either a 174 or a 178.
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
The filter series I'm referring to at that point is that my sensor was not orthogonal to the imaging train and all filters, so it had some strange tilt and artifact lines. Turns out that's actually a defect in my particular IMX174 sensor (not all have this but some do). I had to work around it. That said, this video is old and I actually do not acquire data or process this way at all anymore. I made two new tutorials with what I'm doing now and they're much simpler and easier to follow, and shorter. The result is also a natural look and not inverted. kzitem.info/news/bejne/rm2ouYOOkIN1jYI kzitem.info/news/bejne/s4CssHmlj4Vhooo
@dschenk952
2 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT Thanks for pointing out those updates to me, beats me how I hadn't seen them. Just spent three hours goofing with the Sun here in Southern Indiana before I got clobbered by clouds. :) Thanks again.
@juanjosemoreno1348
2 жыл бұрын
Excellent information. Great tutorial which as your others videos, go right to the point. Thanks for sharing your experience!!!
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@Bills_APCh
2 жыл бұрын
Very useful video, thank you. Its a useful addition to our toolbox for image processing. Could you do a video, as detailed as possible on correct flat field acquisition and calibration? The type of plastic cover, how to apply it to cover the tube (tightness), single or double layer film, how to know if flat frame is correct. I have got reasonable or complete removal of NRs but find my corrected image is too dark. Maybe I need to boost the original exposure times, but then its not so easy to find the NRs and dust spots. Many thanks, Marty.
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Hi, take a look at this video: kzitem.info/news/bejne/rm2ouYOOkIN1jYI And in the description under the video, expand it, I go over some of the calibration information. That is a good idea to perhaps do a video about different forms of flat calibration, I'll see what I can do.
@Bills_APCh
2 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT Hello Marty! Thank you so much for this, its just what I needed. It would have taken me months/years to work that out...I will watch and read your notes, maybe I can post you a summary in graphical form! Thank you.
@waltdudley8375
2 жыл бұрын
Great Video! I just ordered a Full Aperture Solar Filter for my 12" dobb. Will I be able to see Filaments and prominences. Or will I need more filters?
@malsYT
2 жыл бұрын
Hi, a full aperture white light filter will show the photosphere. This is the brightest layer of the sun's outer layers and will show you sunspots, faculae and convection cells or granulation. The chromosphere is above the photosphere and is many orders or magnitude dimmer than the photosphere, so it requires extremely narrow bandpass filtration to block all that photosphere light to see the firey hellscape that is the chromosphere where you will see prominences and all that. The filter would need to be down to around 1A to begin doing this (0.1nm), or frankly even more narrow, around 0.7A (or 0.07nm) bandpass to show it with good contrast, which is commonly done with an etalon filter and blocking filter system. These are very expensive. So unfortunately that white light filter you purchased will not show you the chromosphere, only the photosphere. Also, a 300mm aperture is probably way too much aperture even for visual for solar because your seeing conditions in day time are likely very poor, like most places in the world. You would be better off with a 4 inch aperture to start, unless you know for measured fact that you have sub-arc-second seeing conditions in day time (this is rare). If you want to see the chromosphere, it won't happen with your 300mm dob without incredibly expensive filtering systems (many thousands of $). So if you're interested in chromosphere viewing, I would suggest you look at Lunt's 40mm HA or 60mm HA dedicated scopes from a budget stand point, or perhaps a Daystar Quark on a smaller refractor (like a 4" refractor).
@davepastern
3 жыл бұрын
Marty - some questions, as I am a solar imaging newb. 1. My ZWO 1600 has TEC cooling - is that required to be used with solar imaging? I presume not, since cooling is really only critical for limiting noise in DSO imaging so that the data is above the camera's noise floor. If TEC is not required for solar imaging, what is the ideal normal operating temperature for the sensor? I did a test run on Sunday, the 1600's sensor was around 28 degrees C. Is this acceptable, or will this damage the camera and I should be using TEC cooling? 2. For HA, does the filter need to be set to IR? Cheers, Dave
@malsYT
3 жыл бұрын
Hi Dave, cooling is not needed and will not provide noise reduction to short exposures. Operating temp, lower is better just for lifetime of components as heat does wear things out faster, but as long as you're withing operating spec of the sensor you should be fine. Setting a filter type makes no difference other than naming for organizing and cataloging, such as designating IR, it doesnt change the data.
@davepastern
3 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT Thanks Marty. ZWO mentions "working temperature" in the manual for their 1600 mm pro camera - do you think that that mean surface temperature of the sensor or ambient air temperature? Also, how do you align your GOTO mount during the day? No alignment stars, can't see the South (or North) pole etc. Do you just do a rough alignment to South/North direction, set your altitude on your GOTO mount and do a 1 star alignment on the Sun?
@malsYT
3 жыл бұрын
@@davepastern I think it specifies ambient temperature. My mounts are on piers, permanently polar aligned, for setup, align well at night or rough align in day, telegizmo 365 covers protect well.
@davepastern
3 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT OK! Should be good then in the Australian Winter. Summer perhaps not lol! I don't have the luxury of a permanent observatory or even a permanent pier sadly (variety of reasons). I'll do a rough align vs true South and set the latitude on my GOTO mount. Many thanks for your awesome tutorial and time to reply, greatly appreciated.
@davepastern
3 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT well, first chance to test the Lunt and 1600 mm pro camera today since last weekend - looks like the camera is dead. Exposure set to "1 to 200ms". Gamma set to maximum. Gain set to 0. Sun centred on field view via 20mm eyepiece before swapping to camera (which has a narrower FOV than the ZWO camera I might add). FPS set to maximum 30fps to avoid any USB traffic errors. Image preview in FireCapture is dead Black, nothing showing. No, I don't have the front lens cover on the Lunt, or the 1.25" nosepiece cover on the camera. FireCapture detects the camera without issue. Just no data visible. I strongly suspect the sensor on the ZWO is DEAD. Should I be using an IR/UV cut filter when imaging? From what I have read, this is not necessary with a dedicated HA solar scope and imaging. Am I wrong? FireCapture shows the sensor at 31 degrees C. From what others have told me, this is not an issue, and I should not have to use the TEC 12v cooling on the camera when solar imaging. FireCapture histogram showed nothing. Dead as a door nail. The camera was working for nearly all of my session last weekend, when it stopped working last weekend (same problem as today), it was nearly time to pack up as the Sun was about to dip below a neighbour's rooftop. So, I decided that I would test it at a later point of time. Note: ZWO camera was purchased new, in 2017. Stored in its original box, untouched, unused, until last weekend. Very poor QC from ZWO. Of course, it is now out of warranty, so I am left with a 2 grand dud. I am beyond fucking pissed off.
@kailongridge7752
3 жыл бұрын
Bro did you really just say or-eon? (Orion)
@jayaigner2704
3 жыл бұрын
Incredible video. A GAME CHANGER for me. Quick question -- it appears ZWO has removed the ability to adjust gamma (I use the ASI120MM-M). Do you have any suggestions on how to deal with blowing out disc now? Just use gain?
@astronomynotebook
3 жыл бұрын
Yes ....a great tutorial on processing proms and surface together....much easier...will follow. Thank you 😊
@malsYT
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@fjbsolutions2446
3 жыл бұрын
Great video. I have the solarmax iii. 70mm. I just got my 174 camera. My 100 percent is the whole sun. Your 100 is less then a quarter. You must have a more powerful scope?
@malsYT
3 жыл бұрын
Hi, you're referring to image scale, a function of focal length and pixel size, my effective focal length here is long, over 1600mm.
@fjbsolutions2446
3 жыл бұрын
1600mm is crazy! Which scope do you have?
@malsYT
3 жыл бұрын
Per the description, a Quark is involved, with a 4.2x telecentric amplifier so the effective focal length is quadrupled. My other systems are larger, up to 2,000mm natural focal length on my high res systems. For this video I used smaller gear that is common for people getting into this.
@prakashsubbanna
3 жыл бұрын
Very nice walk thro. Beautiful final image. Regards.
@Robservatory
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the great tutorial! I’m looking forward to trying this when the rest of my gear arrives. Love TimeCop 1983 too!
@nebulasky522
3 жыл бұрын
Spectacular images!! I have a 72ed skywatcher, would it be okay with the DayStar quark chromosphere? Would I need a glass cap filter like thousand oaks or erf? In one store I was told that only with the daystar and a uv filter of 1'25. If you can help me, would you thank him
@malsYT
3 жыл бұрын
Hi, your 72mm retractor will work fine, you dont need any addition ERF at all, per day star under 80mm doesnt even need an UV/IR block filter, though I will suggest always use one to limit heat to preserve the more expensive filters life span.
@nebulasky522
3 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT the 72ed I have it ordered although I can exchange it for one like yours or a ts80 triplet that would be ideal, would there be a lot of difference for photography with the sun? Is it better to use extenders for back focus or a 2" diagonal?
@malsYT
3 жыл бұрын
@@nebulasky522 Hi, theres zero benefit to ED glass for narrowband like this, so a triplet will actually be worse in fact than a long achromatic doublet for performance of longitudinal focus and spherochromatism, but dont worry about it, the 72 ED is perfectly fine, the scope I used in this tutorial is sub optimal and I used it to show how any everyday cheap scope (ST80) can be used to image narrowband like this. The ideal scope is longer focal ratio, such as f7 or longer for mica spaces etalons like day star. You dont have to use straight through extensions, I simply prefer it as the diagonal mirror is just reversing the image and is another surface for dust, but its total fine to use a diagonal.
@nebulasky522
3 жыл бұрын
@@malsYT I'll look at some tube similar to the 72ed double of f7 if you notice the difference. I'd really love to one day get something like what you did. Thank you very much for your advice and help
@malsYT
3 жыл бұрын
@@nebulasky522 All good, I kept the equipment simple and cheap so anyone can reproduce this as long as their atmospheric seeing allows. A great scope for this is an 80mm to 102mm f7 to f10, such as a celestron omni xlt 102 f10 achromatic doublet. The longer that focal ratio the better the performance on a mica space etalon like the Quark, then use a 0.5x focal reducer on the camera to get the effective focal ratio down again for sampling purposes with larger pixels, like the imx174 sensor.
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