Time or money. I've built transmissions to save thousands. But to do all this for 2 brushes you must be poor. That's a lot of bullshit to have a half rebuilt when a 150 dollar new window motor will last 10 to 15 yrs.
@350zdiy7
4 ай бұрын
The video is 9 years old. At the time of posting, replacement OEM (not aftermarket garbage) motors were far more expensive than $150 (today around $250 each). But to your point, it's a hassle and if you can afford to purchase new, that's great.
@Roma-uz4mo
Жыл бұрын
What happens if it sucks the filter in the vent?
@jgm113
2 жыл бұрын
"there is no where to mount one" THERE IS ACTUALLY. I have done it. You have to remove the passenger panel under the air bag, remove the metal panel, remove the key fob antenna and re-route part of the ECU harness and it's a tight squeeze to get it in there but I now have a K&N vf2004 in my 350z.
@MikeSmith-fr1ew
3 жыл бұрын
These cars dont have one, that hole you blocked is for the outside air passage. Theres a flap that opens and closes when you use it. Damn moron.
@350zdiy7
3 жыл бұрын
Yes that hole is the air intake under the wiper cowling. The hole is not "blocked", that is a trim to fit filter, air will still pass through. Also, the servo vent flap (for freshair or recirculate modes) can still open and close perfectly without the DIY filter interfering. The blower box can be modified to accept a standard Nissan Altima filter from similar years as the 350Z, as shown in another users YT video, but the amount of labor involved may not be worth it for some. Before making a useless comment, please do some research.
@dayslife
4 жыл бұрын
@350Z DIY hi there, great video , too bad i saw your video too late, just after i ordered a new motor for my g35, window worked good , till it dropped half way few times and then wouldn't go up any more. i tried fixing it , so i took it a part and cleaned it but didn't change the brushes , still had ~ 5mm left , but sill wouldn't go up with a load and getting hot , even took the limit switch gears apart to see.. i was surprise also that you could just push in the commutator i had to kind of screw it in. do you think new brushes is the answer or it could be something else ? thanks.
@350zdiy7
4 жыл бұрын
If the brush retainer springs are not applying solid pressure/contact against the commutator, then it's a good bet that's the problem. New brushes should be around 10mm. It could also be possible that the brush shunts (copper wires) are weak, or have poor contact. Other possibilities include shorted windings on the armature or the microcontroller safety switch is fried. In your case, have you inspected the window regulator closely? If the braided steel cable is binding anywhere, that could overload the electric motor. These types of regulators often bind up on the spindle that the motor's gearbox slots into. Typically the braided cable will start having wires fray/break. Once this happens the loose wires will get tangled up in the spindle or the guide tubes. With the motor removed from the regulator, you should be able to move the window mounts by hand. Grab the window mounts and sliding them up and down their guides. There should be some resistance, but nothing extreme. I recommend checking the regulator and making sure all the pulleys are good (they are plastic and sometimes these break!) and there are no signs of fraying or broken wires on the braided cable. If the regulator checks out good, then the only other area of concern would be the window glass guide rails in the door. It never hurts to make sure these are clean and free of gunk (does require you to remove the window glass). If you've done both of these things, then the motor is almost certainly the problem and should be replaced if rebuilding with new brushes fails. Good Luck!
@dayslife
4 жыл бұрын
@@350zdiy7 thanks for the reply. i cleaned the regulator track and cables , i can roll the glass up and down with a ratchet, not by hand, cause they're not bolted. it looks like it winds without lifting till it hits the limit switch and then it's dead . feels like when the motor is not strong enough to lift , it activates the ant clip switch limiter ? i'll get some new brushes and experiment, what do you think about using the silicone grease that is used for the caliper pins ?? thanks again.for a great video.
@350zdiy7
4 жыл бұрын
@@dayslife It should be safe to use the 3M Silicone Paste (www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O/ref=asc_df_B005RNEH5O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312453079106&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14194330410578957106&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031936&hvtargid=pla-479376653204&psc=1) Note: Do not use Molybdenum (Moly) caliper grease! This stuff is too thick/sticky for this application. Also have you tried the window reset procedure yet? This procedure sets the end points for the window glass and also allows for the proper "cracking" of the window when you open the door. (Quick Guide: www.350z-uk.com/topic/105742-window-reset-procedure-clarifiedi-hope/). If you're still using the OEM motor assembly, there should be a small black rubber button on the side of it. This can be accessed with everything installed in the door by removing one of the black plastic discs on the inside of the door panel. This will only work if you can get the window to fully open/close using the control switch (cannot use the auto-open/close function, have to hold your finger on the switch).
@thefreak2788
4 жыл бұрын
How do I know if the brushes are culprit? My motor is not rotating but is heating up, a lot. Should I change the brushes?
@350zdiy7
4 жыл бұрын
Are you bench testing the motor with it removed from the regulator? If the motor is getting hot, it could be that the regulator is jammed. Pull the motor from the regulator to test.
@thefreak2788
4 жыл бұрын
@@350zdiy7 I'm not actually sure what bench testing means.I'll walk you through this. 1.one of the power windows wasn't responding at all. 2.I removed all the door paneling and took out the entire assembly including the sliding mechanism. 3.On removing the motor casing and taking out the coil, there was black deposit on commutator. 4.Cleaned the contact points with a fine sandpaper,and put the setup back together. There wasn't much carbon brush to push apart, there was very little to be pushed back, maybe a millimeter on each side. 5.The entire mechanism was working (sliding)smoothly when I ran it without load. 6.after I riveted it back on the door and fixed the window glass, it worked. But after 2 or 3 repetitions, it ceased to work. 7.I again took out the assembly and tried to run it without load, but again it wont move. 8.I opened everything again and the motor was too hot to touch and black deposit was back on commutator. 9.I cleaned and repeated everything, only for it to cease working when I put load on it again.
@350zdiy7
4 жыл бұрын
@@thefreak2788 Are the retaining springs for the brushes actually pushing/holding the brushes against the commutator? Or are the brushes floating there loosely? The brushes require solid contact. If you're getting lots of black carbon build up immediately after only a few uses, that tells me that you have poor contact and there's a lot of arcing occurring. How much material is left on the brushes from end to end? A good set should be around 10mm or 1cm. It's very possible that solid state electric component on the brush assembly has burned out, in which case I would bite the bullet and purchase a new aftermarket motor. That being said, if your brushes are clearly not making solid contact with the commutator (brush springs/tensioners at maximum), then it's worth a shot to replace them. A cheaper alternative to the brushes I recommended are actually RC car motor brushes. I've heard of folks having good success with these, although they are smaller vs. the OEM units. The Eurton P/N I listed in the description most closely matches the OEM brushes.
@thefreak2788
4 жыл бұрын
@@350zdiy7 yeah the brushes are worn and is just making a little contact. I assumed it was brush failure, and have already ordered them from aliexpress. But later I became skeptical and that's when I came across your video. Lucky me, you did reply to my comments. I am happy that I got a credible second opinion. thanks a lot mate. this really means a lot. :)
@BoogWar01
4 жыл бұрын
Excellent video! Thanks!!
@thanaponthummachat7301
5 жыл бұрын
I did and when I put everything back so the motor is dead :( Pls help me
@MattWitt07
5 жыл бұрын
How many of you almost backed out of the video because of the difficulty level? Lol
@johngalle6485
6 жыл бұрын
Good info. Thanks. At the end of the video you say you might create a video on cleaning the evaporator. I couldn't find such a video from you...or anyone else. My Z is 14 years old and i suspect there is a good bit of debris on the evaporator. Can you breifly describe the process of cleaning the evaporator? Thx.
@350zdiy7
6 жыл бұрын
Hello John. Here's the brief process...The best product I've found so far to remove mold/mildew and the corresponding odors is called Kool-It by LubeGard. You can find it on Amazon. I recommend two bottles for a thorough cleaning, especially if this is the first time your Z's evaporator has been cleaned. Klima Cleaner by Nextzett is another option, but I find it's usually out of stock and more expensive. Just follow the instructions on the product. The rest of the details can be sorted out with some research on the Z's AC system. Here's the detailed instructions... A few things of note before starting. The 350Z's evaporator drain hose is not easily accessible from underneath the car. You have to pull up the passenger side carpet to gain access. If you suspect debris was sucked into your AC vents, you may need to snake the drain hose a few times to help clear out any potential blockages. Use something flexible, about 1/4" diameter that doesn't risk damaging or puncturing the drain hose. I simply used the provided tubing that came with the Kool-IT kit. I also put a catch pan underneath the car where the drain hose exits. I wanted to catch the foul contents to see how bad it really was (it wasn't pretty). Lastly, have some towels handy to catch any excess product or mistakes. Protect your carpet and interior. I'm not sure what's in this stuff, but I didn't want to chance any of it discoloring my carpet or interior. PHASE 1... Step 1: You need to pull up the kick panel on the passenger side of the Z along with the corner foot piece against the fender wall. You will also need to remove a plastic nut holding the carpet down at the front firewall. From there you can begin pulling back the carpet. Step 2: Once you pull back the carpet you should expose a black rubber hose that snaps into the floor pan. This is the drain hose and should be running diagonal from your evaporator core housing behind the center dash into the floor pan. Step 3: Pull up the hose where it connects to the floor pan. This piece is snap fit in like a rubber grommet used for wiring harnesses, just squeeze and pull up gently so you don't rip it. (Tip, a little silicone spray helps to make this much easier, especially for re-installing). Step 4: Snake the tube from the Kool-IT kit into the drain hose until you feel it make contact against a hard surface (metal or plastic). Step 5: Unload the full contents of the product. Step 6: Once the bottle is empty, retract the tube and quickly connect the drain hose back into the floor pan. Step 7: From here you just follow the instructions on the Kool-IT kit. I think you need to wait 5-10 minutes for the foamy goodness to start condensing back into liquid and draining out. Then turn on your AC blower to assist with the drying/draining process. The instructions are clearly marked on the kit. PHASE 2... Step 1: After you're confident that the majority of the product from phase 1 has drained out. It's time to shut the AC off and get your second bottle of Kool-IT ready. For phase 2 I empty the entire contents into the top of the evaporator core using the ducting coming off of the blower box housing. Step 2: You will need a philips screw driver to unscrew and remove the blower motor from the bottom of the blower box (3 screws total). Use a flathead screwdriver to assist with unclipping the wire harness connected to the motor. Note: I'm pretty sure this can be done without removing the lower dash panel and knee plate, but if memory serves you have more wiggle room with the lower dash panel removed. Your choice. Step 3: Grab those towels I mentioned earlier. Make sure to place them under the ducting leading to the evaporator core and cover the carpet as much as possible. (If your blower motor/fan blades are looking nasty, now is the time to clean them up). Step 4: Snake the cleaner tube through the ducting into the evaporator core housing and begin unloading the contents. I attempted to twist and manipulate the tubing to get better coverage, but you're working blind so I'm not sure if it makes any difference. Keep a close eye on the ducting as you might see some foam or liquid begin to drip out. Dab it as needed to prevent any overflow/flooding. Step 5: Once the bottle is empty, wait the same amount of time as you did in Phase 1 before replacing the blower motor/fan and running the AC. This is the procedure I followed on my Z and it worked great. It completely eliminated all AC odors I had been experiencing. Kool-IT is not perfumed like other cleaners out there, which I like! This way I know I'm not masking the symptoms of mold & mildew (like Ozium...another product I've tried and didn't work). Even after 12 months of driving, no odors had returned. I will be repeating this procedure in the near future. I'll try and get some video of the process. Life has been busy for me lately, I purchased a house and just had a baby girl (my first!). So time to wrench and make youtube videos has all but disappeared.
@mohammedhakumi5959
6 жыл бұрын
Very good video , it is very helpful one .....many thanks for it.
@Patrickblue50
6 жыл бұрын
super vidéo très bien détaillée
@northviewharvestministries1704
6 жыл бұрын
will the brushes work on the convertible top motors on a 2004 350z. Thanks for the video!
@ancientyoda9761
6 жыл бұрын
Thank for the video, i took apart my motor and i have a different brush assembly. Is there a way to purchase the ones in the video?
@350zdiy7
6 жыл бұрын
Hi Yoda, the link for the Eurton Brushes is in the video description. Those are the exact same units I purchased and used in the video.
@ancientyoda9761
6 жыл бұрын
yeah i purchased those brushes, but the brush assembly is different and wont take those brushes. Do you by chance know where i can by the assembly and replace my old ones with the ones in the video?
@sprydo7113
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this wonderful tip. ..never thought about this one. Keep on being creative...350zDIY Guy! #37 Subcribed
@prodjay10
6 жыл бұрын
Where did you get those brushes?
@350zdiy7
6 жыл бұрын
The link to purchase the ones I used is in the description.
@DriveBy370
6 жыл бұрын
Brilliant, thanks! Just done a motor on my 350Z, saved me a packet and was pretty straight forward following your video. I couldn't get the right size brushes in the UK, had to go down to the nearest millemetre, but they seem to work fine, so far.
@keliweisgerber3896
6 жыл бұрын
I made it too. Want to know how ? just go to inplix webpage.
@CENTAUR559
6 жыл бұрын
I've seen other window motors (Hyundai) where the springs and brushes freeze because of the grease getting on them, does this not happen on the 350z? I'm mainly trying to figure out whether it would be a quick (possibly temporary) fix to just clean the brush and contact points.
@350zdiy7
6 жыл бұрын
No, this will not happen on the 350Z window motor so long as you... 1) Use the correct type of grease,. 2) Apply the grease sparingly and 3) Only apply the grease to the correct locations. The brush cage/holder is sealed pretty well against grease encroachment. Some people do have success with just a simple cleaning of the brushes, but more often than not their window motor issues come back after a few months of use. This issue is primarily due to the brushes themselves being worn down beyond use-able specs. The brush springs can no longer provide enough force to keep them in contact with the commutator. New brushes must be installed at some point.
@AnthonyJ350
7 жыл бұрын
Yaaa the scenes with the G35 aren't filmed by you. I would know because I made that video.
@350zdiy7
7 жыл бұрын
My brother helped me cut and edit this video together (He's the Adobe master, not me). If the picture and short scene with the G35 are content you filmed, please send me the link and I'll make sure you get credit for it in the description. I'll edit out the whole intro otherwise.
@350zdiy7
7 жыл бұрын
Please also note, this channel is not monetized. Any adds on this video were put there because of the copyrighted audio. I post videos here and there to help the Z community, this is not my full time gig nor do I wish to make it so.
@nataliakrajewska1
7 жыл бұрын
great video! :) I'm going to do the same today :))
@350zdiy7
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks! I highly recommend picking up some Kool-it from Lubegard. This stuff works amazingly good for cleaning out the heater core & evaporator core if you're already experiencing odors coming from your AC ducting. I used 2 cans of this stuff on my Z and it completely eliminated the AC odors I had, no perfumes either that just mask the stink, this stuff really works. Link: www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486067870&sr=sr-1&keywords=lubegard+kool+it
@GurillaRon
7 жыл бұрын
my 00 maxima driver side window got stuck half way up. I took the whole window motor apart and realized that the brushes that touch the electro magnet where extremely worn down. where can I buy just the brushes and is that the correct name for them. maybe I'm looking it up wrong. their similar to the brushes on an alternator if you ever rebuilt one.
@350zdiy7
7 жыл бұрын
Hi Ron, I used the low voltage DC brushes from Eurton Electric and they work great. See link: store.eurtonelectric.com/brushlowvoltage33-h-3.aspx Since you have a 2000 Maxima, the motors/brushes could be slightly different, so make sure to measure the dimensions (or approximate dimensions) of the original brushes before purchasing. Good Luck!
@ronmenendez2424
7 жыл бұрын
350Z DIY hey thanks a lot my boii. it's very much appreciated you just saved me some cash and earned a new subscriber. keep up the good work. I tried calling a place where they repair the power window mechanism and told them I didn't need it repaired and that I was just seeing if they could give me the number to a place where I could buy just the brushes and like you would expect they played dumb and said they didn't know of any. Anyways thanks again and God bless you.
@ronmenendez2424
7 жыл бұрын
350Z DIY oh Ya one more thing are they universal or do I need specific ones for my maxima. I'm not too sure and want to be sure before I purchase them. thanks again.
@350zdiy7
7 жыл бұрын
Hi Ron, The Eurton Electric brushes I ordered are, for the most part, universal. I believe the Maxima models from the early to mid 2000s use nearly identical window motors as the 350Z. Regarding the repair place playing dumb, I experienced the exact same thing. They didn't want to help me at all by sharing parts supplier information. They instead wanted me to buy the brushes from them, which were overpriced. The brushes they offered were also not the correct style/design. The dimensions were too small and the shunt style was wrong. They were clearly brushes designed for model RC car motors.
@GurillaRon
7 жыл бұрын
Those bastards. I get why they do.it. so they dont lose business. But they should think if im asking them about the brushes and where i can buy them. They should off the bat think, ok this guy obviously knows what hes talking about and try to help and maybe gain a future customer. But nope, they rather try to play people for fools & they sure ass hell arent going to draw new clients jist on reputation alone. It always makes me wonder how businesses that try to take advantage of their clients ever expect to last when they burn their bridges any chance they get.
@SteveMack
7 жыл бұрын
Good idea! Does it slow airflow into the cabin tho?
@350zdiy7
7 жыл бұрын
Hi Steve, the airflow is slightly effected, but after using my filter for almost a year now (I replaced it after 6 months of use) I would argue that the flow rate reduction is negligible. I typically don't push the fan speed knob past 40% to meet my needs. Your mileage may vary as the flow rate is highly dependent on the filter element used.
@SteveMack
7 жыл бұрын
cool (no pun, well; not much of one anyway) ;) I've just this moment discovered and pulled a filter from my Ford - No element, just a screen, but judging by google; it would have had one originally, so I'll put one in. Here on the east coast (in fact, any coast or region) of Australia, we need as much cool air as possible in summer (which it now is, in november), so might opt for a less restrictive version for that reason)
@350zdiy7
7 жыл бұрын
Hi Steve, in that case, I would highly recommend picking up some "Kool-It" or something equivalent. I recently used this product on my 350Z because I had a very annoying odor coming through my AC vents. It didn't matter if I ran hot air, cold air, recirculate, or air from outside. This odor is what prompted me to install the filter, however by then, nasty contaminants had already found their way into my heater core & AC evaporator core housing. I have tried Ozium and Einszett Klima-Cleaner, both only masked the scent by using aerosol perfumes and never actually tackled the root cause. Within a 3-4 weeks the annoying odor was back. But this "Kool-It" stuff from Lubegard works! This product was able to get rid of my AC odors with lasting results, it's also not heavily perfumed/scented, which I love! Now, why do I recommend it for your case? Because you probably have a layer of dust and other contaminants on your AC's Evaporator core from not having a proper filter installed. These contaminants create a thermal barrier which will decrease the efficiency of your Evaporator Core while also contributing to odor problems. It's cheap and effective! I used both methods in the instructions to tackle my issue (going through the drain line and also through the blower motor housing). I highly recommend purchasing 2 cans for a thorough cleaning. Put a drip pan underneath the drain line to catch the nasty run off (The liquid coming out of my Z was dark brown!). I plan to do a video on this for other Z owners since it's such a common issue. www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479683039&sr=sr-1&keywords=kool-it
@Stevemackactor
7 жыл бұрын
That's a good idea - Now all I have to do is find out what they call "Kool-It" HERE in Australia!? - I'll seek advice from DR.GOOGLE ;)
@SteveMack
7 жыл бұрын
This topic inspired me to search out and find that one of my other cars (a big Ford) actually has a filter, tho from the factory it seems it's only a screen mesh, so I put a carbon filter in - all works fine; but I sense it may be down a little bit on output... in other words - the filter is cutting down the airflow ever so slightly, which is a trade off, but for the moment I've taken it back out because it's right in the middle of Summer here and every last bit of breath from the vents is a bonus!! 😰
@sillybellyfriendsramirez6360
8 жыл бұрын
nice video i tink the brush case comes out just by pulling it out
@350zdiy7
6 жыл бұрын
This might be true for some Nissan models or aftermarket replacement motors, but this is not the case for the OEM window motors installed on 350Zs and G35s. You must unsolder the power connections to the cage prior to removing it (as seen in the video). Failure to doing this could cause severe damage to the brush cage and motor assembly.
@k.dondzon9690
8 жыл бұрын
it's easier to put it in filter from 370z or mazda 6 series, its fit just great ;) there is a place for it, look for 370z filters ;)
@350zdiy7
7 жыл бұрын
Hello! I'm very interested in this. I've inspected the blower motor housing in my 350Z carefully, but never did find a removable cover/lid for a filter. Please elaborate more on this.
@jgm113
2 жыл бұрын
@@350zdiy7 the door is behind the key fob antenna (white box with metal bracket, two screws). You have to re-route some harness as well but it's do able. I know this is 4 years old but I wish someone had posted about this earlier.
@TheVigilantStewards
8 жыл бұрын
Would like to see how dirty it is after 5k. If the filter can get odor does it pretty much get everything? Does this clean the heater air too?
@markgoedde8065
8 жыл бұрын
Hey Carmelo, this mod should filter air being pulled into the cabin from the outside. However if you have the Climate Control set to "recirculate" it will not filter the air. This is due to the location of the filter shown in the mod. If you wanted the filter to work for both outside air and recirculate the inside cabin air, you would then need to customize the blower motor housing under the passenger side dash. I felt this was much too intrusive since it would require permanent changes to be made.
@TheVigilantStewards
8 жыл бұрын
Ok I guess a custom job could house both of these options then. Thank you
@TheVigilantStewards
8 жыл бұрын
Thank you! My city has grown a lot and the pollution is really bad in the summer time and I saw Tesla is releasing a new medical grade HEPA filter in their new cars. I want to do that to mine! Will this increase air quality or is there a product you can use or layer in with this to get the air really pure without having to change it out every 3 weeks?
@markgoedde8065
8 жыл бұрын
There are many different types of filter elements you can use/try. My only worries with the HEPA filters is that they are very thick and might pose problems with airflow (CFM). A more heavy duty filter means you're more likely you are to reduce airflow through the vents.
@ZOMBIE2344I
8 жыл бұрын
We're can I get the carbons tho the outo parts out here don't have them
@350zdiy7
8 жыл бұрын
I purchased mine from Eurton Electric: store.eurtonelectric.com/brushlowvoltage33-h-3.aspx
@Lowalloy96
8 жыл бұрын
AWSOME VIDEO!!! But my question is.. Is it 2 carbon per motor???
@350zdiy7
8 жыл бұрын
Hi Igor, yes you need two brushes per motor. the ones I linked under the description work great. The ones from Eurton appear to be high carbon brushes, these are the best match I could find to the OEM originals (both in size and material).
@Morazl
8 жыл бұрын
Awesome! I was suprised the car didn't have a cabin air filter and this looks pretty easy/cost effective to do. I will have to try it.
@seanzhao16
8 жыл бұрын
thank you for the video I just did it today make more videos please!
@jasonpalmere695
8 жыл бұрын
I tried the rest with no luck. I solved problem by raising window all the way up. then I tore all apart and removed window motor from regulator. then got in the car and and hit the window switch up. when it stopped I unplugged switch. I had someone hold the window all the up and reassemble. perfect working great.
@jasonpalmere695
8 жыл бұрын
brushes work great, somehow I have the timing off for the automatic window. when I press the automatic button for up or down. whindows does full cycle and comes back to rest halfway open.
@350zdiy7
8 жыл бұрын
+jason palmere You will need to reset/retune the window motor after re-installing it. The procedure is simple and quick. Check the reset procedure found here: www.powerwin.com.au/mechanicscorner/Nissan%20Reset%20Procedure.pdf I have used this procedure on my 2006 350Z base model and it works great. Depending on your make and model the procedure could be different. Also there is a typo in the doc. You LIFT UP to roll the window UP and push DOWN to roll the window DOWN. No idea why the person wrote up to go down.
@RoflCoptr20
9 жыл бұрын
Thanks alot for the diy dude, it helped me out alot haha. unfortunately I had a brain fart and chipped the new carbon brushes during the install but they still work. Il end up rebuilding them again eventually.
@elcuajinais9570
9 жыл бұрын
Hi there, by any chance, can you tell me the size and type of carbon you used in this rebuild bro? my is a 05 G35 coupe and don't want to open the motor if I can find those brushes here in NZ. Great video by the way!!!
@350zdiy7
9 жыл бұрын
@118086096591697655725 These are the dimensions of the brushes I used, these are a near perfect match to the Factory Originals.(0.16" x 0.18" x 0.39")
@350zdiy7
9 жыл бұрын
El Cuajinais Note: I put a link in the description with the Brush details: store.eurtonelectric.com/brushlowvoltage33-h-3.aspx
@maxpowers131
5 жыл бұрын
@@350zdiy7 is that in inches?
@350zdiy7
5 жыл бұрын
@@maxpowers131 Yes, the measurements listed are in inches. A quick conversion to mm will read 4.0mm x 4.3mm x 10mm and a 41mm shunt length. Again this is using the Eurton P/N listed in the video description. Others have had success using model car motor brushes since they are easier to find and cheaper. My experience with model car brushes is that they are smaller with a different style shunt. This will cause fitment issues which may lead to other failure modes.
@maxpowers131
5 жыл бұрын
@@350zdiy7 and they need to be sanded down because I'm going to assume they come flat and need to be shaped to the rotor.
@jimbilopsky8702
9 жыл бұрын
could you do this with the door lock actuator?
@350zdiy7
9 жыл бұрын
Hi Jim, great question....Honestly, I'm not sure. I haven't had the need or chance to take one of these apart. After doing some research, it looks modern actuators use a small DC motor, similar to ones used in tiny toy cars(like those old Tamiya racers). If you can find appropriate sized brushes, I suppose it's possible. But it really all depends on the design of the motor and whether or not you can safely dismantle it. This would be an interesting project to test and play with.
@Z33Garage
9 жыл бұрын
Great video! I was going to make one but I see yours is already top notch!
BETTER OFF TO REUSE THE ORIGINAL SEALANT, IF YOU USE ANY TYPE OF SILICON SEALANT WHICH CURES YOU WILL HAVE DIFFICULTY REMOVING IT IN THE EVENT THAT THE MOTOR NEEDS WORK IN THE FUTURE
@350zdiy7
10 жыл бұрын
Re-using the original sealant is possible, but more difficult. You will need to melt it back into the housing. The silicone sealant requires a little extra effort to remove after it cures, but I have already gone through this procedure and it's really not difficult. The silicone breaks off in nice clean chunks and doesn't leave that sticky/waxy residue on everything it touches.
@sirkill3r
10 жыл бұрын
350Z DIY I have accomplished rebuilding motor, thank you for your video. You deserve more views. ++++++
@lemmy999
10 жыл бұрын
Great video! I have the brushes on order and will be replacing my brushes this weekend. You said the motor originally had silicone gear grease. I have some pure silicone grease, and that stuff is really thick and sticky. I have looked up the Sil-Glyde and it isn't 100% silicone and is actually mostly petroleum based. I was just wondering which would be best. I know some greases are compatible with each other and didn't want to mix in the wrong type of grease with any that still might be inside the housing where the shaft goes. Thanks.
@350zdiy7
10 жыл бұрын
Hi Lemmy, you make some excellent points there. I must admit, I haven't used the Sil-Glyde on any of my window motors yet, but I did recently use it for my oscillating room fan and it worked great, however it is thick and must be used sparingly if used at all on one of these power window motors. The stuff that seems to be on the motor shaft from the factory is pretty light weight grease(yellowish in color). It honestly reminds me of the grease used in Radio Control Car Differentials. Very soft and not super sticky/thick, more like a gel. I've been looking for something closer to it and so far the Sil-Glyde seems to be a good fit, but after using it on my room fan which operates at low RPM, it could be a little too thick for this application. I believe if a very modest amount is used, it will work just fine, but I have yet to experiment with it. I may just make a run to the local hobby shop and buy some differential grease. Whatever you use, DON'T use Lithium grease! The Valvoline wheel bearing grease I currently have on my motors is working just fine, but I feel the motors could be quieter with something a little thicker. But keep in mind, thicker more viscous grease means slower operation of the motor and this could possibly prevent it from functioning. These motors operate at high RPM due to the gear ratio used to produce the torque required to move the heavy window up and down. I have a spare driver's side window motor and I think I'll go ahead and rebuild it using the Sil-Glyde to see what type of results I get with it. The best test of a healthy window motor for me is to check if the window quickly opens(cracks) when opening the door. If the window doesn't crack/move at all, that's not good!
@350zdiy7
6 жыл бұрын
Update on the grease: I think the 3M clear silicone paste would be an excellent fit for this job. I've been using this on all kinds of automotive applications to prevent squeaks. It works great, it's not very viscous and won't eat rubber/plastic! Here's a link: www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511993562&sr=1-3&keywords=clear+silicone+grease
@ivanburrito
10 жыл бұрын
350Z DIY eyy bro do you think other types of carbon brushes will work as long as they are the same size? what i mean by other types is for example like the ones that electric power impact drills use(makita,ect.)
@350zdiy7
10 жыл бұрын
Hi Alonso, The short answer is yes. Other brands/types of carbon brushes should work just fine. For the most part, these brushes are all made of the same material. Just be careful about the size and the shunt style. There could be clearance issues if the shunt comes off parallel to the brush. That's why I recommend the ones I used since they come off perpendicular to the brush, the same as the originals.
@ivanburrito
10 жыл бұрын
cool man thanks! either way i just finished rebuilding the motors with the same brushes you used i ordered them and they work great! you did a great video thanks alot!
@350zdiy7
10 жыл бұрын
alonso ruiz That's Awesome! I'm glad my video was able to help!
@tuffguy407
10 жыл бұрын
350Z DIY WRONG!!! A/C TYPE BRUSHES WILL NOT WORK!! e.g. THOSE FOR ELECTRIC POWER HAND TOOLS,BRUSHES ARE DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR THE PURPOSE INTENDED SOME HAVE MORE COPPER CONTENT SOME MORE CARBON VARYING THE RESISTANCE IN THEM DEPENDING ON THE APPLICATION , LEAVE THIS TYPE OF WORK TO THE EXPERTS!! I'VE SEEN MOTORS FRY DUE TO OWNERS ATTEMPTING REPAIRS AND NOT HAVING THE KNOWLEDGE TO DO THE JOB CORRECTLY. SAVING A FEW DOLLARS IS NOT WORTH FRYING YOUR MOTOR OR WORSE!!
@350zdiy7
10 жыл бұрын
***** Fred relax with the Capslock. Thanks for the info regarding AC and DC brushes. The brushes I've linked in the video description are specifically designed for low voltage DC motors (power window motors for example). Other people have used model car/plane motor brushes which are also DC and haven't experienced any issues.
@hemihoskins8587
10 жыл бұрын
I may have missed it but how did you measure what length to file brushes down to? Got to do mine shortly
@hemihoskins8587
10 жыл бұрын
I may have missed it but how did you measure what length to file brushes down to? Got to do mine shortly
@350zdiy7
10 жыл бұрын
Hey Hemi, there's no specific length you need to file the brushes down to. The idea behind filing the brushes is only to replicate the curvature of the commutator since the new brushes come completely plained/flat on all sides. The goal is to leave as much material on the brushes as possible, while creating as much surface contact between the brushes and commutator. Extra attention to this step will help ensure a quieter motor, but in time the brushes will break-in and wear into the commutator from normal use. The brushes I recommend using posted in the description of the video are 10mm in overall length. If you purchase brushes longer than this, then I would sand down to 10mm first before matching the curvature. Anything longer than 10mm could pose problems when re-installing the brush assembly into the motor housing. I hope this answers your question =D Good Luck with the rebuild!
@ironjoka5894
10 жыл бұрын
Great video! Any suggestions for getting the commutator arm back into the motor housing? Mine won't seat fully and leaves a 1/4 inch gap.
@350zdiy7
10 жыл бұрын
Double check to make sure you removed the excess solder off the power leads on the brush assembly. Sometimes the built up solder will prevent them from fitting through those tiny cut outs in the motor housing. While you're at it, make sure there isn't any blockage where the shaft goes, and double check that the shunts on your brushes aren't getting pinched/kinked anywhere in the housing. Try that and let me know :)
@ironjoka5894
10 жыл бұрын
Thanks 350z, the brushes were getting pinched. Works great!
@Mickey_Bauer
10 жыл бұрын
God bless you man...i called the local nissan stealership and they quoted me $406 + tax for motor only. I was like motherfucker i'm not buying the whole door... I have 04 Maxima and my motor is the same size and shape but i notice some minor differences. Looks like i don't have to mess with the sealant and soldering - there is a cap which comes off and there are two metal prongs inside. I hope the brushes are the same size...didn't put it apart yet. Thank you!
@maxpowers131
5 жыл бұрын
Did the same size brushes work out for you Mickey? I have an 04 Maxima as well and need to rebuilt
@islandzee8840
10 жыл бұрын
Awesome video! Works great now, you seriously saved me a couple hundred bucks thanks!
@350zdiy7
10 жыл бұрын
Happy to hear it! These motors don't have any bearings, so rebuilding them should be possible for years!
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