when those chinese engineer will learn not to put springs like if its 1980's atari controller it seems those engineers never play with these sticks :D and its almost on 99% of flight sticks, as if they all are made not for flight sims but for arcade games.
@williamdiffin28
Жыл бұрын
Use your common sense and don't attempt this mod; there is obviously no way to compress the spring with zip ties so that the resistance is even in all directions, and trying is just a waste of zip ties if you don't inadvertently ruin your controller. If you must reduce the resistance of the joystick, replace the spring altogether.
@sataniczombiepr
9 ай бұрын
where i can buy the spring
@ScottWithCats
Жыл бұрын
All I can say is that I wish I had seen this sooner. I've been fed up with the stick for along time, and was getting ready to break down and finally ditch it. Now it's fun again! Thanks for posting it, and making it so easy to follow and understand.
@nixie2462
Жыл бұрын
Fucks sake people, get a new spring from aliexpress.
@TheInsaneupsdriver
Жыл бұрын
i only watched to see the inside so i didn't have to take mine apart. i like mine the way they're made. but one tip, turn down the background music a little.
@davidclayton6184
Жыл бұрын
Dude, you're a total legend for doing this video. Thanks a million 🙌🏼 I picked up the T16000M for Christmas and this mod has made the stick 100% better. For anyone thinking of doing this mod, I highly recommend it. Make sure you get the right fitting Phillips screwdriver so you don't ruin the screw heads and just take your time. I've done this mod three times now to get it right and here are some pointers from my experience: 1. I now have the spring compressed to 30mm. It originally starts around 50mm - 55mm which is WAY too strong and the reason to do this mod!. I previously had the ties compressing the spring to 25mm which is too much and the stick would not re-center. 30mm feels ideal. I would not go any less. 2. When applying the ties, I looped them around the middle coils and not the uppermost or bottommost coils otherwise the spring would sit uneven in the compartment. 3. Ensure the buckles to the zip ties are on the inside of the coil so they won't bind on anything. I cut off all excess right tight to the buckle 4. Use the smallest zip ties you can find 5. I only used two ties which are opposite each other. 6. It's really hard to get the spring to be the same height all the way around. I got it to be like 30mm most of the way way but it's like 32mm or so at one point. When putting the spring back in its place to re-assemble the stick, I tried to locate the taller part of the spring at the back of the stick so the stick didn't feel uneven side to side a I thought that would be more noticeable. 7. Make sure you orient the spring cover plate correctly before fixing it back down - it has pegs which align with the base of the stick to limit the Z axis. Essentially, just make a note of which way it comes off before you take it off! 8. When fixing the spring cover plate back down, the screws will do up to a point where you will feel definite finish resistance. I backed each screw off a quarter turn from that just to take a little more compression off the spring. I don't know if that has made a difference either way, but the overall end result feels good. I'm thoroughly delighted with this stick now 👊🏼
@ScottWithCats
Жыл бұрын
Great suggestions, and 30mm spring height is also perfect for me. The only thing I did differently was I replaced the zip ties (I was using 4 inch ones) with wire looped around as someone suggested because l was getting uneven pressure in different directions no matter how the buckles were oriented (inside/outside).
@jamescrouchet1283
Жыл бұрын
Good vid but the music was just loud and distracting
@VR_Thunder
Жыл бұрын
6 years on, works perfectly! I used string to tie around the spring because I couldn't find my zipties, 1st attempt the centre was off, 2nd attempt, tied it tighter and its perfectly centred and smooth. Thanks for your video!
@DamienSawyer
Жыл бұрын
Thank you!! The joystick is infinitely better with MSFS after doing this.
@sparrowlt
2 жыл бұрын
Could some of the base buttons be "moved" to the stick adding switches screwed to it wired to the base switches in paralel? Everyone talks great about this stick but the only "but" i have with it its having only 4 buttons in the stick besides the hat ..if i could "duplicate" or move 2 or 3 to the grip it would be more than enought for me
@meareAaron
2 жыл бұрын
god i hate that spring are all joysticks like this at stock? i recently bought a tca sidestick and that stupid spring keeps fighting me when im trying to aim and its making me miss a lot
@jenjenner8827
2 жыл бұрын
or... be smart and forget stupid zip ties and binding and cut the top 1.5 rings off the spring. its very stiff so get really nice small leveraged cutters. now its perfect. you are welcome
@Solar546
2 жыл бұрын
that sounds smart indeed.
@Lochaby
3 жыл бұрын
SOLVED! Annealing the spring softens it a lot. I baked it for an hour at 500 and let it cool slowly by shutting off the oven and not opening the door till I was sure it was cold. Also cut and inch and a half off both ends. Worked great.
@Solar546
2 жыл бұрын
some questions: it is enough that I put it in the oven for it to become softer? and what did you use to cut the spring?
@maxthiel2170
2 жыл бұрын
500 degree Fahrenheit or Celsius?
@einarabelc5
3 жыл бұрын
Thrustmaster...how to make cheap crap and charge you a ton for it...wow....This thing looks like a sixth semester electronics project.
@Jmacdonald2386
3 жыл бұрын
Do you think it would work if I use zip ties to get it set the way I want it and then use a little bit of electrical tape and take off the zip ties?
@exhaustor5983
4 жыл бұрын
Still helpful in 2020...just moded my stick....thx ;)
@skitch8616
4 жыл бұрын
All right so I've looked at this thing multiple times and I've got multiple different opinions from other people summer saying to make the spring Martens but you're saying to make it less tense the void random yawning how does making it less tense make the random yaw go away?
@flexy456
4 жыл бұрын
This has nothing to do with the random yaw. The random yaw is due to old/dirty potentiometer in the grip. Tons of guides on the web how to open it and clean the pot, or replace it entirely.
@TairnKA
4 жыл бұрын
I use duel 'Thrustmaster T16000Ms joysticks but I've gone through at least six(>), due to twist motion failure (Z-axis) and I'm unable to repair this known defect. The last two (pair) I got were T16000M FCS and seems to be lasting fairly well (but one is intermittent). I've just noticed, advertised a "Guillemot Thrustmaster T16000M FCS" but have been unable to get details about what a "Guillemot" is (other then a bird)? A "Guillemot" T16KM FCS may be reconditioned Thrustmaster T16000M FCS joysticks, with the defect fixed (permanently) but that's only a guess? Do you have any information if Thrustmaster is planning to replace the T16KM FCS joysticks (without the defect) and/or if the Guillemot is a reconditioned T16KM FCS joystick (with defect fixed)? Thank-you for the time. ;-)
@kiri101
4 жыл бұрын
Guillemot is the name of the corporation behind the Thrustmaster brand, some online retailers automatically use this name instead of the brand name. It's the exact same product, box, everything.
@Keef335
4 жыл бұрын
ok so not directly to this mod, but 3 of my t16000m have developed slop in the center, before the spring loads. Is there a way to fix ths?
@cbcdesign001
4 жыл бұрын
Compressing the spring to 32mm gave me a reasonable compromise. But I also took the spring out, put it in a vice and reduced the angle in the coils in the middle of the spring to decrease the overall tension. I do not know why Thrustmaster manufacture it with so much tension, its poor as built for controlling Helicopter cyclic where you need a lose grip.
@eirin099
4 жыл бұрын
i mean it gets lighter but also very uneven
@fubarace1027
5 жыл бұрын
So today I went in and used Nyogel 767a on my main hand stick and throttle for the t16k hotas, I had that spring in my hand =/. After re-greasing the stick and throttle, I found that while I liked the feel of it, it seemed to accentuate the center detente. This mod lessens the center detente, does the stick still autocenter? Oh, and taking the bottom board out isnt strictly necessary.
@BrettBoyer
5 жыл бұрын
Tried the zip tie method but even with very small zip ties I could feel them rub on the corners and the resistance wasn't even. Instead of trying the fishing line, I went with my own idea, compress the spring with u-bolts or metal wire then hit hit the spring with a torch for 20 seconds. Let it cool then if you need to pull it to even out the sides so both ends sit flat and reinstall. Stick feels incredible now and is much easier to aim.
@rashadb954
5 жыл бұрын
Just dropping in to say thank you for this mod tutorial!
@youmasenchi
5 жыл бұрын
Can anyone share the dimension of the spring by any chance?
@perksi9329
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
@Acky0078
6 жыл бұрын
Does it work for other games too? Kappa
@ladyvah3221
6 жыл бұрын
Hello... 2 zip-tie per Joystick ?
@ladyvah3221
6 жыл бұрын
You try to cut the spring ? It's easier...
@JACOB1556
6 жыл бұрын
So I have the thrustmaster T16000m and the T16000m FCS , what model should I mod as I only need to mod one.
@TrevorJones1
6 жыл бұрын
wow i just followed your instructions and im speechless. you just solved the biggest gripe i had with the t16000. im floored with how accurate and smooth the right stick is now. thanks!
@GmanMilli
6 жыл бұрын
Ah, spring rate is just another name for spring constant. This is basically the opposite of one of these joysticks it seems kzitem.info/news/bejne/wGuAzYJ7fGeKpGU
@ConfusedPlushiee
6 жыл бұрын
Thx.. a fck ton!...
@roypettit1808
6 жыл бұрын
I really wanted to have the affect of this mod (less spring tension). So I spent 3 hours trying to make it work (using about 18 zip ties along the way). No matter how tiny of a zip tie I used, and where I positioned the buckle, the buckle would interfere with the motion of the controller -- top, bottom, middle, inside, outside, etc. What I ended up doing was removing the spring (twist out) and grinding material from the spring by using a dremel tool (reducing wire diameter). I also sawed off 1.5" from each end of the spring. Also, when you put the spring block back in, after tightening the screws, unscrew them 1 turn. This will relieve friction from the ball joint. The bottom line is that the lateral pressure at the top of the stick dropped from 300 grams to a little under 200 grams. This doesn't sound like much, but it feels just right now, smooth, and still centers well. There is no dead spot for any axis, including rudder. There are no sticky spots, and pressure is equal all 360 degrees. The geometry of the stick movement is unaltered because the stick is still essentially the same length and there is tension top to bottom (full throws).
@klmuller8888
2 жыл бұрын
tried zip ties and wire method - no joy. THen did what this guy did... cut about 1.5" off each end and then I used my bench grinder to take down the diameter of the wire for the whole length of the spring. A little bit tedious, but works like a charm.
@cwnj147
6 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for posting this video. only took me two attempts and was perfect. before i did this i found i was always fighting the stick wanting to center itself and could never get any accuracy. Soon as I did this... Problem solved!
@michaelt3172
6 жыл бұрын
I want to get these sticks but they are sold out everywhere
@ReubenPerrysDenOfChaos
7 жыл бұрын
Excellent info. Just picked up the FCS Flight Pack (includes the rudder pedals with the FCS stick and HOTAS) when it was on sale a couple weeks ago on NewEgg and Amazon for $124.
@AKARazorback
7 жыл бұрын
Good one! Would it be possible to just buy another spring somewhere with less tension on it to achieve the same result? So I'm talking about swapping out the spring completely, rather then modding the spring that comes with it?
@hariszark7396
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video. Please lower the music...
@johnthomas2242
7 жыл бұрын
did this mod, the problem I'm having is stick resistance to the left is stronger than when I push it to the right, I'm guessing the zip ties have different amounts of torque on them??
@davonsden
7 жыл бұрын
Great video! Will try this out for sure.
@XimoXThe
7 жыл бұрын
great easy mod, used zipties , they just need to be oriented in the right direction and they need to be opposite, also as specified, depending how much resistance you want to lose you compress the spring more, i left around 5 mm distance but at one point you will lose some firmness in the deadzone which is not too good, just trial and error, no clicks no locks, thanks! I will look in to softening the rudder also(twisting)
@richardhanck972
7 жыл бұрын
Just performed this mod, using your video. Excellent work. Just want to chime in with some additional details and possible pitfalls that I think might help others. = Orientation of the spring housing when reinstalling. The hole in the spring housing should be on the side with the removed PCB. Any other orientation causes problems with wire runs (reversed) or with the z axis being loose (+/- 90 degrees). = Play with the stick for at least a week before changing your zip ties out for a lighter spring setting. I've got mine right about where they are in the video and the stick feels very soft compared to my left hand. But there's absolutely no "clunk" to the centering. Be careful with very soft throws, as you may begin to encounter a catch or bind (see below). = Zip-tie size. I used 4" 18lb (80N) loop tensile strength cable ties from Walmart (~$4 for 100). Not sure, but I think you may have used 6" ties, they look a bit longer (possibly 6"?). In any case, using the smaller ties should help with the clearance issues some report. The major problems reported by people may be due to the thickness of the zip ties used (see below). Use the thinnest you can find, less than .0033" thick if you can, to try to prevent catching and binding situations (also see bleow). = Had a catch in my stick after first reassembly and I may have figured out the problem with catching and lockup and why the fishing line fix works. It's not (necessarily) the stub or ratchet on the zip tie, but rather the zip tie itself. The bottom zip tie (top when inverted) may catch on the pressure plate (the black cup the spring surrounds and presses on opposite the housing) if, when the stick is centered or is moved such that the side of the spring that that zip tie is on is relaxed, and the zip tie clears the lip of the plate. When the stick is then moved in a direction in which that side of the spring is again compressed, the zip tie is brought into contact with the lip of the pressure plate and rubs or catches. The clearance between the pressure plate and the spring is probably about .005 inches, and the zip ties I used were about .0033 inches thick (measured by stacking 3 to equal the width of the tie, and the tie is .01" wide). Plenty of clearance, you'd think, but you have to remember there are two ties in there, the one on the top (bottom when inverted) is in constant contact with the pressure plate. The one on bottom (top when inverted) does not necessarily have the clearance to smoothly slide into place against the pressure plate against the side pressure of the spring (which is comparable to the compression pressure), and causes that "catch" feeling until enough pressure is applied to slip the zip tie strap between the spring and pressure plate. Thick enough zip ties can actually cause lockup this way, preventing the stick from moving because the zip tie cannot force the spring aside enough to slip down the side of the pressure plate, locking the stick away from center in the direction away from the zip tie contact. I think the Fishing Line Fix works not necessarily because it's thinner than the strap of the zip tie (1lb test line is approximately the same thickness as my zip ties), but that the nature of the rolling hitches (which is basically several wraps of line around the spring) and how they are placed (two, much wider a single zip tie) may allow at least one of them to actually never clear the edge of the cup, resulting in a much smoother movement when returning. A heavier throw weight setting on the stick might prevent this problem from occurring with zip ties, as the loop of the zip ties will be longer and may never actually clear the lip of the cup, resulting in rubbing, but no catching. Since the pressure plate and spring are lubed, and the nylon of the zip tie isnt too abrasive a surface rubbing shouldn't be a big issue.
@terraint3697
7 жыл бұрын
Awesome stuff!
@bobcardone7437
7 жыл бұрын
Did it today Great for a Helicopter controller which needs much less spring action. Be careful when reassembling that you get the trigger on the joystick on the same side as the USB cable exit, otherwise the joystick will be backwards.Don't ask me how I found that out. ;)
@DylanCunliffeMusic
7 жыл бұрын
Okay so I just wanted to chime in for anyone else who may be attempting this. I found that even using the smallest zip ties I could find (and believe me they were small) no matter which way I oriented the stub, it would catch somewhere along the travel of the stick. There have been a lot of comments on forums about people hearing a click in the travel, or that the stick is locking up entirely. What I did was close the springs with zip ties like the video, but then while the spring is zip tied together, I used some fishing line and tied a rolling hitch (just the knot (or hitch rather) I used as it is strong and has a small profile.) on either side right beside the zips. When the hitches are complete you can remove the zip ties. The fishing line has a very small profile and will not catch on anything. Your stick will centre properly every time (I don't even have to use deadzones at all to counteract drift, because its simply not there). Also the action will be buttery smooth in every direction, throughout the entire length of travel. I highly recommend this method, as I really couldn't get the zip ties to do the job properly. The internals are just too compact and there's really no where the stub of the zip tie can go without hitting something, in my experience at least. If you're having that same issue like I did, give this a try, it works great. Other than that, great video. Probably wouldn't have even attempted this without it.
@TerraInterstellarOrg
7 жыл бұрын
Awesome info!!! I'll pin this comment.
@terraint3697
7 жыл бұрын
Awesome!
@JustanStensland
7 жыл бұрын
Fishing line worked like a DREAM. Thanks, man!!!
@buzzantique1158
6 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this awesome tip. Fishing line works like a charm! :-)
@AtotehZ
5 жыл бұрын
Using 4 points instead of 2 helps centering too. I also used a tiny dab of hot glue to keep the fishing line in place. Didn't want it to displace itself over time.
@Yajih
7 жыл бұрын
I have the T16000m FCS, this spring mod works on it too. But if i tight the zip-ties like in the video, the stick can't have a good "center" when release, so i needed to put the deadzone to 0.5 in star citizen. So i tight less the zip-ties and has now perfect centering and no deadzone issue and the stick is still easy to move (I did this mod like 8 times to have the result i want ... don't give up and take your time. Thanks for this mod anyway ! great job !
@JAYZ999
3 жыл бұрын
This is a 4 year old comment but here I go, just to make sure, you're saying I shouldn't tighten it too much correct? I'm doing this next week
@rmvp2009
7 жыл бұрын
This video specially the music give some motivation to return to SC 2.6.
@pictishgaming3812
7 жыл бұрын
Great vid bud, just one problem now tho, my stick slumps forward as if it does not have enuf spring, any ideas?
@TerraInterstellarOrg
7 жыл бұрын
Yes try to not make the zip-tie too tight. Might take some trial and error.
@overdhill56
7 жыл бұрын
Yes do the spring MOD. I did mine slightly different as I found that the tie wraps would rub on the column. So I first used a couple tie wraps to compress the spring on each side then used some small copper wire and wound a few turns around the coil. Then I snipped the tie wraps off. Problem solved.
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