It would be great to see diagrams of which flags to use for which hold layouts. As a total noobie I just have no idea when it's appropriate and when it isn't and which one to use based on what the rock layout is.
@SendEdition
3 жыл бұрын
Great idea about the diagram, I'll look into that. I did make this video about flagging that talks about when to use what type of flag - check it out here: kzitem.info/news/bejne/zJCfqJOKmImko3o Also, practicing flagging is a great way to start recognizing what flag to use and it'll become more natural as you practice :) I hope this helps!
@sleepygreen1956
Жыл бұрын
I started bouldering a week ago and your videos help me out a lot! Thank you so much!
@slowsallyandcrew
2 жыл бұрын
Really enjoying your videos. I'm stuck at the V2 level and I can tell that I'm making a lot of the mistakes that you highlight in your videos. I now have lots of ideas about what to work on.
@SendEdition
2 жыл бұрын
I’m glad you like the videos and thanks for sharing your experience! What do you think is the most challenging part about V2-V3 routes?
@slowsallyandcrew
2 жыл бұрын
@@SendEdition for me it’s a couple of things: 1) knowing which technique to use when; and 2) being brave enough to risk a big fall if an attempt doesn’t work out!
@gryphon940
6 ай бұрын
Your channel has helped me tons, I'm very to myself at the gym just put an ear bud in and climb, so I learn by watching others in the gym and KZitem. Thank you!
@swaggless52
3 жыл бұрын
Great video, very informative. I always flag like a pro but it’s always good to hear someone else say I’m doing it correctly. Love the lanterns in ur office btw 🔮
@SendEdition
3 жыл бұрын
That's awesome you flag like a pro! Thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed it, and the lanterns :)
@alishastubbs2371
2 ай бұрын
OMG, such a helpful tip. Didn't realize the balance with the reach I am looking for. So helpful. THANKS!!
@SendEdition
2 ай бұрын
Thanks for the shoutout! Happy to help with any tips you need.
@monica2757
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the advice! ...I hope to try it once I can go to the climbing gym again :) ...I'm a beginner and find the gym a bit intimidating.
@SendEdition
3 жыл бұрын
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I totally understand being intimidated by the gym but I hope when your gyms open, you can have a good experience. When I was bouldering V0's I was embarrassed to climb around all of the other climbers that seemed to be climbing V7+. That being said, everyone was really nice to me about it so I wouldn't let that get in your way :)
@monica2757
3 жыл бұрын
@@SendEdition Thanks!
@MattKleinSensei
3 жыл бұрын
Great video, very well explained. Thank you!
@SendEdition
3 жыл бұрын
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching :)
@jaygaddo5633
2 жыл бұрын
Its all very well n good to see a climber in the 3rd perspective but what this needs is a go pro headcam, side video, so as a noble on the wall, we can't seem to see what type of flag to use or what we should see if doing it rite.
@Mindcrawler23
2 ай бұрын
Instead of plain flagging, isn't it more efficient to place the free leg on the wall and use it as a lever instead? You mentioned 'smearing'. But isn't it generally better to pick a point on the wall, where you can push against without smearing, so you can support your move throughout the movement instead of just giving an impulse at the beginning? It also feels more stable and controlled and i feel like it builds a stronger base for a more determined and dynamic movement toward the next hold, if that makes any sense. I do it intuitively most of the time and whenever my foot starts smearing, i think to myself 'nope, that was too far away'
@SendEdition
2 ай бұрын
I may not totally understand your query. The balance that a flag provides requires your leg, and by extension your foot to be stretched out to the side. The smearing gives you the wall to push off. It may be worth sharing that slipping and smearing are different things. I hope this covers your question.
@chhau123
2 жыл бұрын
My problem is, I don't have enough strength on one arm to let the other arm have enough time to reach the next hold(if you know what i mean), regardless my hip are close to the wall or not, especially if there's incline.
@SendEdition
2 жыл бұрын
That would be challenging, I can see where you are coming from. Have you ever filmed yourself to see how you’re holding your arms (hopefully straight arms) and your footwork? I used to think that my right arm was too weak but after reviewing footage of myself when I first started flagging, I learned that I could leverage my legs more. That being said, I also made a video about growing strength with on the wall drills that you might benefit from - hope this helps :)
@Keor-x8l
2 жыл бұрын
The 3rd mistake gets me everytime ! I had to like video.
@Eduardado
2 жыл бұрын
Go out and fix them! -> this moment xD
@provuksmc6619
3 жыл бұрын
0:50 Mechanical engineer here... Why should it be the same angle? I mean the torque created by arms or legs reaching out is different since they are build different. Shouldnt it be that the so createrd torque around you bodys center of mass should be the same?
@denniszhang9278
3 жыл бұрын
Also ME here... I agree with you that there's no fundamental reason why the angles should be exactly the same. That said, flagging is primarily used to prevent barndooring when there are only two main points of contact (one hand one foot) and where reaching over to the next hold would pull your center of mass above and over the imaginary line connecting your two points of contact. In these cases, the ideal flagging position would be the one that maximizes the perpendicular distance between the flagging toe and the imaginary line connecting your two points of contact, while being appropriately comfortable for the difficulty of the move. In this case, there's no fundamental relationship between the flag angle and the direction of the next hold, but routesetters may still tend to set in a way that matches these angles (reaching arm parallel to flagging leg) because this maximizes the reach of the move and minimizes the likelihood that someone can break the beta without the flag. In the same way, a move that does not cause barndooring would not normally be executed with a flag. For instance, reaching straight up along your contact line does not typically require a flag since the unstable torque should be quite small, if present. In these cases, you can flag in whatever direction you want and it would probably have no effect on or rather increase the difficulty of the move. Said another way, flagging does not need to be done so that the reaching arm and flagging leg are parallel. However, when used most appropriately and effectively, this angle thing does tend to be the case.
@provuksmc6619
3 жыл бұрын
@@denniszhang9278 I understand your point. But i would see it like this: The best flag is the one that allows you to get to the next hold in the most enrrgy conserving way. And flagging in the same angle is a special case since its dependent on the body of the climber itself. Thus a quite rare one.
@denniszhang9278
3 жыл бұрын
@@provuksmc6619 I agree, but I think you're taking perhaps a too literal interpretation of the claim. Two angles are never really equal in real life, or more accurately, the higher your standards for equality, the lower the probability that you will find this to occur. In practice, I can probably estimate my limb angles to the nearest 15 degrees, and anything +/- 15 deg would be considered "equal angles" as far as my body position goes while climbing. A more charitable interpretation of the advice might be: when reaching out left, flag right. When reaching up and to the right, flag down and to the left. Etc. These movements will be much more common than flagging downward to the left while reaching left (typical inside flag) for instance. As I granted before, there's no fundamental reason the angles should be exactly the same. However, in practice they are, for a majority of cases, in approximately opposite directions.
@Richard-g8Richard_t1
2 ай бұрын
The Bitcoin transfer has concluded successfully-applause for you!
@kolcrap7063
2 жыл бұрын
Me! 4:35
@BzAdt
2 жыл бұрын
Hypothetical flagging mistake #7: talking about flagging mistakes without candle lanterns in the back ground.
Пікірлер: 30