This is a great instructional video, particularly for teaching the second how to rack and clean gear. It's important to note that a second should never try to climb past the gear placement, no matter how big that hold is just a foot or two away. It's a great way to get pumped and panicked. Have to say that the camera work was a lot better than in most climbing videos I've seen with GoPros. Tahquitz is a fantastic place to climb with amazing rock! Nice job!
@libertine5606
3 жыл бұрын
My first multi-pitch follow was Consolation. I was scared S-less! The only reason I didn't fall was I was so scared. It was April and Ice balls were falling on us. Wes said it was much harder than he remembered it to really freak us out. Aiden and I thought the nightmare would never end. That was in 1991 and I have been climbing ever since. I have climbed Tahquitz hundreds of times but I will never forget my first time.
@alpinenovice
10 жыл бұрын
Yep you're right. The correct start is the chimney. We opted for the direct 5.8 start to the left.
@mls01981
2 жыл бұрын
Is that start called "The Blank?"
@fredwickFYT
10 жыл бұрын
pretty sure that isn't the start. I've done it 3 times, we never started there.
@hemming57
3 жыл бұрын
12:00 there was a large chockstone just before reaching the large ledge in the 1960's. I knocked it down. Everybody told me it was safe!
@Gyntster
9 жыл бұрын
"This video is about rock climbing." OK, there is climbing, but I think a better title would be, "This video is about mistakes and errors in judgement." Everybody has the right to climb, and I think it is one of the best outdoor activities available; however, since it is wrapped in some of the most severe consequences possible, those who do it, and especially those who take beginners into it, need to adhere to certain mindsets in order to be safe. Climbing is by its nature dangerous, and falling is the clear hazard to anyone who has climbed. People get hurt and things can get ugly quickly. This requires preparation, experience and anticipation. Clearly, the second in this film had little to no experience on multi-pitch, wilderness rock climbs, and this was evident from the way he moved, the way he cleaned and racked the gear and how he climbed above protection before extracting it. This person had no business being thrust into the arena of multi-pitch traditional climbing, especially at a place like Tahquitz, and it is the fault of the leader in this film for taking them up the trail in the first place. Tahquitz is, on a national scale, a historically significant climbing area. Much of what we know about the belay, forces on gear and the Yosemite decimal grading system came from the work of the Los Angeles Chapter of Rock Climbing Section (RCS) of the Sierra Club at Tahquitz. I learned to climb there in the 1960s with the RCS, and back then you had to learn and demonstrate a very specific skill set in order to qualify to rope up there. I went on to climb some of the real classics there, like The Vampire, The Flakes, and The Green Arch. The place if filled with fantastic moderate routes, like The Traitor Horn, The Open Book, White Maiden's Walk Away, The Consolation and the Whodunit, and that is why it is such a draw. The RCS took routes like these very seriously, because climbing at places like Tahquitz is serious business. Before I could tie into a rope there, I had to demonstrate many skills, like an ability to set and remove anchors, escape the belay and assist a fallen climber, hold a serious fall (I had to catch a 120 Lb bucket of cement dropped over 30 feet...on a hip belay...twice), communicate belay signals, and demonstrate good route finding abilities...all of this was taught and tested by veteran climbers who were putting up routes all over the Sierra, including Yosemite. You never climbed at Tahquitz until you were qualified to do so, and -unfortunately- that mindset has long since vanished. This is an important film because is gives the viewer a first person POV, allowing them to witness the struggle that is married to inexperience. Imagine what would have happened if our orange jacketed leader (who, I might add, was not the strongest climber, either) had fallen on, say, the third pitch, and gotten injured or rendered unconscious? It is painfully clear that the second would be left helpless, stranded, and anchored to some airy belay station not knowing anything about rescue while their friend struggled on the other end of the rope. It is also highly possible that neither has any sort of wilderness first aid training, which was another requirement of the RCS. Climbing multi-pitch, traditional routes is -for me- the ultimate climbing experience, but it involves a skill set that comes with time and patience, and there is a method to it. In the Gym Climber Era we have now days, the skills taught there are exceedingly thin, so if one dreams of doing multi-pitch traditional climbs, then one needs to find mentors and proceed with caution: If someone is willing to immediately haul you alone up any sort of multi-pitch, trad route, then find someone else. Being the second in a rope of three is a great introduction...IF the two on each end are experienced and well versed in self-rescue. Here's how I moved through the ranks: Top roping, following and removing gear on one pitch routes, learning self-rescue, working with a mentor in placing and removing protection (you can do this at ground level), following in the middle of a three-man rope team on multi-pitch, following multi-pitch, Swapping leads on climbs WAY under my max ability, leading at my max, leading climbs where I was going to fall on my own gear because I was pushing my ability. Then I became a climbing guide and I did that for five years. Having done over 300 routes in the Idylwild area, I know there are better places to take developing climbers, like the North side of Suicide or the South face of Tahquitz, which is littered with easy single pitch routes. This is where the team shown in this film should have been, and I am relieved that nobody got hurt, because the scenario was painted in an accident waiting to happen.
@shakachubacka1
9 жыл бұрын
Gyntster The skills he displayed, while clearly not experienced, seemed competent enough to take on moderate multi- pitch climbing. Ya they're not the strongest climbers, but they seem to have all the basic skills required to tackle a route like angel's fright. The second even caught a fall at the beginning. Not everyone is lucky enough to have a mentor to show them every discipline of multi pitch climbing. Sometimes the only way to gain experience is to get out and do it, and push yourself past your comfort zone a little (after mastering the basic techniques of course). How else does one progress? They did well as far as I'm concerned.
@Gyntster
9 жыл бұрын
dee bee Agreed, sometimes the only option is to just get out there and do the climbs; however, climbing is a very serious adventure, and the Gym-Bred climber of today is far too often biting off a lot more than they even realize when they finally take it outside. There are multitudes of areas to take a new partner and teach them the nuances of being a good second, places where one my climb a trad pitch. lower off and then coach the second as they clean. Joshua Tree comes to mind right away. When one is mentoring a new climber, one is assuming a tremendous responsibility...one that -I think- is largely neglected these days. Way too many times I have seen a fumbling second with a "skilled" leader in the multi-pitch arena, and it begs disaster. Granted, the overwhelming majority of the time nothing happens...but it is a growing attitude, almost contempt (without thinking they are being contemptuous) these days, and I see many ways for experienced climbers to solve the issue. Jumping right into a "moderate" long climb where an incapacitated lead climber could be stranding their friend way off the deck is irresponsible, and when I saw that in this film, I had to comment, hoping the team in the film will rethink their behavior. I would never discourage new climbers from getting involved, and that is one reason I guided for several years: I wanted to introduce more people to something I'd grown to love. But my students left class fully embracing their limitations, and I gave them a lot of things to think about once class was over. "Getting out of the comfort zone"..."just getting out there and doing it"...all fine, as long as you are not playing a game where death or serious life changing injury are at stake, and this can be avoided while still progressing and becoming a more experienced climber. I stick to my guns on this one: Unless you are a professional guide, do not take an inexperienced climber out on a multi-pitch climb...hit the one-pitch arena first...and hit it lot.
@Destort
5 жыл бұрын
I just lead this yesterday. My entire trad experience before this is following the wong climb and leading some stuff in JTree. My partner had never done any trad before. When you're in the zone you don't really think of potential outcomes, you're just thinking about climbing. And when you top you're just excited to be finished. Looking back after readging this response, that was honestly some sketch ass shit we did. I should be leading wayy more single pitch stuff before placing pro too far off the deck. I've climbed long enough to know that rescues off a multipitch are just bad all around and I would prefer to be prepared so I know how to not make it worse. Thank you for taking the time to write this.
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