This brilliant, it has sorted my ongoing problems which were driving me mad, many thanks , great video
@jamestaylor5401
3 жыл бұрын
Glad the video was of use to you, it is nice to hear making it was worth while :-)
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
Glad it was useful to you. Remember if you solve a scenic problem to video it too :-)
@mrnobody7943
3 жыл бұрын
@@jamestaylor5401 what were your symptons?
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
@@mrnobody7943 error message on screen, something like check pollition control
@CLASSICALJAJ
3 жыл бұрын
Great video - hugely helpful. Thanks
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
Glad it was of help to someone. I would have found it handy myself to know how it should work before hand, but couldn't find anything online!
@DangerousDrummerDado
Ай бұрын
I have a Megane 3 1.6dci and I hear screeching noise whenever the engine is hot and I press or release throttle while driving. I was certain it was the DMF but then I realised that when I turn the car off, a few seconds later I hear the same screech. The flap is probably making that bloody noise. Thanks for the video!
@jtq4u
Ай бұрын
If it is coming from under the drivers seat area then it does sound like a likely candidate for the noise! The flap opens and closes a couple of times after you turn the engine off.. to keep it self loose.
@DangerousDrummerDado
Ай бұрын
Thanks for reply. It's certainly a prime suspect then.
@patrikradacic8640
2 жыл бұрын
Nice vid. Going to test with some WD40 and hope it helps. Would not want to replace this thing. Classic greasing up and forcing it back and forth hopefuilly works
@jamestaylor5401
2 жыл бұрын
Good luck. I hope it works out for you
@_shogun_gaming_
22 күн бұрын
Good vid, im getting the P1484 check anti polution error, mine is a Clio 4 1,5 dci from 2016, looks like i gotta find the wd40 out :)
@jtq4u
22 күн бұрын
Good luck :-)
@1704Gogo
23 күн бұрын
I have a 2015. Scenic 3, 1.5dci 81kw. Just bought it about a month ago. After few days of driving i heard a whistling sound while pressing/releasing a gas pedal. My mechanic said it could be this flap thing. I went there to his garage workshop and he took a look at it. He said the flap is working well, opens and closes allright. Also did the diagnostics and everything was ok. He said I can drive like this normally. But the whistling sound is still here. Mechanic said he didnt hear it, maybe because car was cold, and it starts to sound usually after 10 minutes after driving for a few kilometers. Could it be that this sound appears only when exhaust heats up a bit? New part is about 200€. I dont wanna change it if it could still be repaired. Thanks in advance for the answer🎉
@jtq4u
23 күн бұрын
If the flap develops issues it would usually result in an error code. A whistle when accelerating and then swiftly taking your foot off could be the turbo blow-off valve (BOV) Another alternative is a leak in the rubber or plastic pipework after the turbo and before the inlet manifold/intake. If this is the case you may get an error when driving under heavy load and acceleration for example driving up a steep hill under heavy acceleration. I had to fix this on a renault scenic last year when the mounting point bolt for the last plastic part of the pipe before the intake snapped, leaving a hole in the pipe there. It caused such a woosh, with an associated error message on heavy turbo load. Further testing after fixing this also revealed a leak in the car's intercooler which also needed to be replaced.
@saltmarshprint6827
3 жыл бұрын
Hi, great video - unfortunately mine seems to be completely seized (in the open position) I can't get it to budge. This may be a stupid idea but what do you think about me drilling a hole in the exhaust and squirting in a load of dpf cleaner towards the flap - then sealing the hole. Any thoughts on if that would work?
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
I guess you might first drench the outside in wd40 and leave it over night then try again. You never know, making a very small hole and putting the red wd40 straw inside to drench the internals might be a second thing to try. A tiny bit of weld or exhaust paste should then block it back up. To loosen put a screwdriver against the moving part and hit it with a hammer in the direction it should move. Failing that you will need to buy the replacement one which comes as a part you fit after cutting the old one out.
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
did you have any luck in the end?
@saltmarshprint6827
3 жыл бұрын
@@jtq4u Sadly not, soaked it with wd40 and pdf cleaner, left it for a couple of hours and it still wouldn't budge. I have found a new part for £150, I'm going to try and do it myself, if I have enough room under there for the hacksaw!
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
@@saltmarshprint6827 Yeah I would imagine you will have to lower the exhaust out of the tunnel. good luck :-)
@slvs91
4 ай бұрын
Hi, Mine is at 13.92% is it good or bad?
@birdcrazy329
3 жыл бұрын
Sorry I did say before great video what side of the car did you jack up as it’s right in the middle and couldn’t get right under there with the jack I was using
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
Both sides at the front. 1. Jack up one side using a trolley jack on the rear jacking point 2. put a stand under the front jacking point at that side 3. Jack up the other side, using a rubber protector in the cup of a trolley jack, on the nut just behind the wishbone one ( I show it here tinyurl.com/Scenicjackhere ) 4. Put a stand under the other front jacking point Never, ever, go under a car only on a jack. That killed a family relative - his kids came home to see him on the drive squashed to death - not nice.
@T1m3Band1T
8 ай бұрын
Hi, great video, I have the same symptoms on my Scenic 3 1.5dci, 2012, but I don`t see that valve underneath the car, from what I can see in your video in that location mine has the DPF or the CAT instead, or if it does have one could it be underneath the engine plastic shield, have you removed yours to get to the valve? Thanks in advance!
@jtq4u
8 ай бұрын
Hi I didn't need to remove anything to expose it, it was visible in the tunnel. Do you have an obd error that confirms an exhaust flap is your issue. I am not sure how the 1.5 causes the pressure difference to increase egr flow. Some vehicles use a exhaust valve, others use a throttle valve
@birdcrazy329
3 жыл бұрын
Great video 👌
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
Glad it was of use. As there seems to by no Haynes for this scenic we all have to help each other out!
@ΑποστόληςΠανηγυράκης
Жыл бұрын
Well, i seem to have the same issue with my Dacia Lodgy 1.5 DCI. I went to Renault, it is this flap problem code, the sprayed it, and we erased the error so it seems fine. But they insist that if it continues it needs replacement that costs 600-700 euros, which is a lot. I think that we have the same issue. As i read on the comments, it normally is in open position/ or it gets stuck there most of the time, so is is very bad to have it always open? thanks a lot for your video!
@jtq4u
Жыл бұрын
Hi, Yeah Same issue. If it gets stuck open then your main issue will be that the DPF will not regenerate (it won't do so if there is any error code). Another side effect is that the EGR won't work properly (but we won't care about that!). Stuck closed would affect engine performance (as well as again stopping the DPF regenerating). I have loosened mine off multiple times over the years, rather than pay for a new one. It can be quite some effort to get it loose sometimes, but I can always do so in the end. It is usually then a year or so until it sticks again. The spring has now also snapped on mine (which means it can't automatically return to the open position, but the computer still moves it to open). I suspect the spring is a fail-safe item so that if there is a wiring issue it moves to open. If it ever sticks so hard that I can't free it then I will consider putting a new one in. The part costs about £180 by the way. to fit it you use an exhaust cutting hand tool, and then two exhaust joiners.
@ΑποστόληςΠανηγυράκης
Жыл бұрын
@@jtq4u thank you very much. I will see how it performs and act accordingly. Here in Greece, Renault wants 700 Euros for the repair, as they sell the exhaust part with the valve on it. I suspect that 180 pounds is only for the valve, which is whats needed?
@cdrbvgewvplxsghjuytunurqwfgxvc
Жыл бұрын
A huge thanks!
@jtq4u
Жыл бұрын
Glad you found it useful. Always good to share what we learn!
@MrBigpappaT
3 жыл бұрын
Is it bad for it to be closed permanently?
@jamestaylor5401
3 жыл бұрын
Yes it is bad for it to be closed permanently as it will cause back pressure against the engine which could cause damage. It is also bad for it to be stuck open as the computer can tell and it will stop the car being able to regnerate the DPF. If there are any such faults in the system then DPF regeneration is disabled and you get the 'Check pollution' message.
@TheIntronD
3 жыл бұрын
I checked for this on my 1.5dci grand scenic couldn't find it kinda annoying as it looks like it should be easy to see. Going to check my wife's 1.5dci scenic as she has the same error
@TheIntronD
3 жыл бұрын
Yep my wife's car has it mine doesn't. My wife's was seized as well which explains her error so got it to start moving again. But not freely like you have it has to be forced still both ways. Going to keep rotating it tomorrow and see how I get on great work though with this video
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
@@TheIntronD Thanks. I am glad you found it useful. If it doesn't move freely on its spring then sooner or later the code rears its head again, as the scenic will expect it to have sprung back. Wd40 and patience will hopefully sort you out. Without it working the car will not regenerate the DPF which is bad news. If your car doesn't have one perhaps yours is an older model, pre-dpf in which case it had no need for that part.
@allynv
2 жыл бұрын
Would this cause a hissing noise if it was stuck closed, when accelerating through the cars
@jtq4u
2 жыл бұрын
I wouldn't think so. I believe they generally stick open, like mine did, as they spend most of their life in that position. Perhaps your noise is coming from the turbo, or a wheel bearing? So many causes for noises on a vehicle though!
@budauvlad3705
3 ай бұрын
Hi, the mechanic just replaced mine with a brand new one but unfortunaltely he can't clear up the check engine error. As soon as he deletes it, after just 1 second it is back there with same error about exhauste valve. He tried with both Launch and Canclip. You can hear the flap working but the error still there. Any idea why?
@jtq4u
3 ай бұрын
Mechanic needs to look at live data which shows percentage flap is open. If this percentage doesn't match where ecu has commanded it then you will get the error. It could be the wiring is damaged as it does run stupidly low down as it goes from flap to under bonnet.
@jtq4u
3 ай бұрын
You can also watch position data in your scan tool as you move it manually.
@Rebellion1
Ай бұрын
Can you tell me where the differential pressure sensor is located on the 1.6
@jtq4u
Ай бұрын
@@Rebellion1 if you send a picture /video I might be able to point it out. The pressure sensors are generally easy to spot as they are threaded into the Exhaust, one each side of the DPF. I can't remember how they are on a Scenic, they might be remote, via flexible pipes from those exhaust entry points. For example on the Range Rover there is a pressure pipe into the exhaust each side of the DPF.. and they each go to a single remote sensor in the transmission tunnel.
@MihaiBB
3 жыл бұрын
Great video and first of all Great Work! I noticed, while googling (having the same issue), that this is common problem for all 1.6/1.5 dci engines from renault. Whether it's Renault/Nissan (Qashqai)/Dacia, all diesel models have one common issue: the one you are describing in this video. I feel kinda frustrated because I already tried cleaning it and spraying with WD40/white grease (haven't tryied copper grease) and after 4-5 months the problem persist. I wonder (before replacing the whole valve with a new one), is the valve somehow blocked because of the spring, so that it does not make the whole spinning cycle back/forth because of the salt/sand/dirt/moisture that is "absorbing" from the roads (especially during winter season) or is there a "glitch" inside the valve component? Thanks!
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
Sadly it is my opinion that the fault is within the 'bearing' of the flap upon the surrounding mount. It would be hard to introduce any sort of temperature resistant grease into the tight fit. Things like wd40 will get in there, but with the level of heat we are talking about there they will burn away, so only provide the short term fix you are noticing. Maybe when the unit is new it has some sort of flange or tight fit that prevents the ingress of mositure, or perhaps it is just always on borrowed time. Eventually there is enough resistance from it that the spring can not over come it. Also as it doesn't need to move all that often (only during low speed regeneration) this probably makes it all the more likely to be stuck. Maybe they should have coded it to open and close each time the car starts and stops, I don't think they did this. If you haven't freed it the only real way is force to gradually get it moving, and then patience. to gradually rock it a little more at a time. Applying heat might help, it often does with such things.
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
I see this chap here kzitem.info/news/bejne/pWduzn6dnqNiiGk took the motor right off to do his loosening. You'd want to take this approach if using heat to assist. I am jealous of his ramp!
@AndrewWatson64
3 ай бұрын
Mine doesn't have that flap 😭What else could be causing the errors?
@jtq4u
3 ай бұрын
Are you sure you are getting the exact same error codes? It would be odd to get errors relating to the exhaust flap if you don't have one! You can get lots of errors that bring up the "check pollution system" error.. you need to use a code reader to find which you have (which could relate to all sorts of things, for example a glow plug failure can even bring it up, as the renault uses glow during engine warmup to get the engine up to temperature quicker).
@keithprescott007
Жыл бұрын
Did you have the engine running while moving it up and down
@jtq4u
Жыл бұрын
No, that might mean you fight the motor and strip the cogs Fixing it will need to be done at 6 month intervals once it starts breaking. You may eventually fit a whole new unit. It depends if it annoys you!
@pauloffthewall6367
3 жыл бұрын
Hi can that trigger low turbo boost pressure and set limp mode
@jtq4u
3 жыл бұрын
Hi. I would doubt that it would cause low boost pressure. If the flap valve is stuck you get a very specific error code from your ODB2. Most cars measure the pressure after the turbo and have an expected value based on the airflow coming in. Have you checked the boost pressure sensor? Alternatively the vanes on many car's turbos can be changed angle to increase or decrease the boost. If this doesn't work properly you will get genuine low boost (rather than it beign a fualty sensor)
@pauloffthewall6367
3 жыл бұрын
@@jtq4u thanks for getting back 👍 will let you know cheers mate
@mrnobody7943
3 жыл бұрын
@@pauloffthewall6367 did you come right? Having similar issue
@nicolasfrancis3248
Жыл бұрын
Good day , today i fitted a second hand air flap ,when i read the data stream it start it started on -55% and the spring arm was moved all the way up by the motor and it did not change position regardless of revs . Any idea ehat could be wrong ?
@jtq4u
Жыл бұрын
Can you move it by hand? When you do move it by hand do the position readings change? Position sensor on replacement one could be broken.
@nicolasfrancis3248
Жыл бұрын
Yes the value does change when operating the valve by hand. Is there any way to rectify the faulty position sensor ? Thank you for your response by the way I highly appreciate you taking time out of your day to assist.
@nicolasfrancis3248
Жыл бұрын
The only fault displayed on the diagnostic tool is "exhaust air flap jammed open"
@jtq4u
Жыл бұрын
@@nicolasfrancis3248 Just after you stop the engine the ecu sends messages to the flap to move it a bit. I am not sure what the intention of this is, but if yours doesn't move it would indicate there's an issue with the motor in your used replacement. They are sprung open, so this is the position it would fail to in that case. Another thing you could try would be uncliping the spring and moving it to a mid position and then starting the car. The car should move it back to open position. Make sure you put the fail safe spring baxk on afterwards. If the motor is dead perhaps move the one over from your old flap. I assume your old flap was siezed but that the motor worked.
@nicolasfrancis3248
Жыл бұрын
So the motor itself isn't the problem , as it is turning the flap. The motor fully turns the spring to its "unnatural position" . It seems as if the flap is not getting the correct information to base it's movements because as soon as I start the car the motor turns to its maximum and stays there. I'm not sure if maybe the ECU is not giving the correct commands or if maybe there is a sensor in the exhaust which will provide the ECU with the necessary information which would determine the position of the air flap. Do you think the EGR sensor or DPF sensor could influence the operation of the flap ? The car has 22000km mileage .
@treecutter1806
2 ай бұрын
Hi what is the purpose of that device on the exhaust?
@jtq4u
2 ай бұрын
It creates back pressure which increases the effectiveness of the EGR. I beleive Renault also suggests it lowers the speed at which DPF regens are possible.
@CelestisForgeUK
2 жыл бұрын
Oh you have no idea just how much you helped me right now! I’m having the exact same issue and couldn’t figure out what is the cause. I’ll hook my car to my OBDII reader tomorrow just in case to confirm it, but this video and your explanation are already a huge help. Thank you! Just a question, though. Would this cause the cruise control and the speed limiter to malfunction as well? Because I also get a “check cruise control/ speed limiter” message and they both cut out while being used. I also noticed that the stop/start never activates.
@CelestisForgeUK
2 жыл бұрын
One more question: is the flap supposed to move so freely as yours? Just climbed out from under my Megane III and that thing won’t even budge. Can’t move by hand, can’t move with pliers, nothing. However, I don’t see rusting preset either. I’m so confused
@jtq4u
Жыл бұрын
Hi, Sorry I took so long to respond, I hadn't seen your comment. Hopefully all is good for you by now. I answer however in case anyone else is reading these comments later. The flap should definitely move freely. If it doesn't then you'll get the code. Sometimes you have to hammer it quite hard with a screwdriver on it. If you are unlucky then the spring may sometimes snap. If it does then the code can still be cleared as long as it moves freely.. it is just that it will no longer go back to a default position in case of electrical fault (but hey it was siezed anyhow!). yes it does cause the check cruise control error too.
@CelestisForgeUK
Жыл бұрын
@@jtq4u thank you for your reply! This is very helpful, indeed. I managed to free up the flap, but I think something must have happened while doing so. You see, when I pushed it in, it didn’t slowly return, but snapped back instead. From that point, every time outside temps reached 15°C and above, the ECU would disable the automatic DPF regen, along with the cruise control and speed limiter. At least it wasn’t constant, and when outside temps dropped below 15°C, everything was working properly. I kept and eye on soot buildup in the DPF, and didn’t see any abnormal values, or signs of clogging up. Sadly, about a month ago, an idiot driver destroyed my car. I was driving on the highway, when someone from a side road failed to yield, and drove out in front of me. There was precious little I could do in less than a second at 60mph. Crashed into her car, destroying mine. No questions asked, seeing the dashcam footage, everyone (friends, employer, insurance company, police, the other driver, their insurance) agreed it was their fault, but my car ended up being unrepairable. Waiting for my insurance company for the payout, and have already found the same make and model, even the year, so I’m going for that one. I know French cars have a certain reputation, but I loved that car! So when I found my car’s sister, it wasn’t even a question. Now I know what to look for, too, should this issue happen on my next Megane 😉
@jtq4u
Жыл бұрын
@@CelestisForgeUK I hope the new one doesn't demand your attention underneath:-)
@j0nezy1
2 жыл бұрын
What model is your scanner
@jtq4u
2 жыл бұрын
iCarsoft RT II
@petersomthing9508
2 жыл бұрын
On my car it will move but not go back
@jtq4u
2 жыл бұрын
Actually as of last month the spring on mine has snapped, so it moves freely but no longer auto returns. This auto return is a fail safe, so that if the electronics fail the flap defaults to open (and so doesn't cause an overheat). If it detects that it isn't freely moving however we get an error - as you have seen! If it is freely moving, then the error will go away even if the auto return spring is broken.. as each time you turn the car off it cycles the flap through a set of positions finishing with the one it expects next time the car starts.
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